38. West Virginia

Month: November 2017

Location: Charleston

Good Morning!

Like some of the other places that I have visited, I had heard about, and seen, West Virginia through the pop culture references of a song or a movie.  John Denver describes it as a beautiful and magical place, whereas most movies depict it as a dull and dreary mining country.  When I did my own research on Charleston, I couldn’t justify going there for more than a night.  So I booked travel for Saturday morning and returning back on Chicago on Sunday evening.  Well, then ‘American Airlines’ decided to make changes to my itinerary – because they could – and now they had booked me on a flight departing at 5:30 am and arriving back at midnight the next day.  I even considered looking for an inexpensive hotel room near the airport, but then just decided to give up on sleep.  So I set my alarm for 2:30 am and called an ‘Uber’ for pickup at 3:30 am.  The funny thing was that as we left downtown, I saw people who were still partying.  In any case, I was off on my adventure.

Thought we were headed to Charleston...

I was connecting through Charlotte and it was quite a trek to get to my gate.  When I got there, I realized that this was the terminal which hosted small planes and mine could have passed off as a private jet.  We had to go on the tarmac to get on the plane and the door also doubled as a ladder.  Yeah, it was small.  As I buckled in, I learned that so as not to be confused with its more popular cousin in South Carolina, this place was referred to as “Charlie West”.  It was supposed to be a very short flight and halfway through the trip we were told that our plane was being diverted to Roanoke owing to fog in Charleston.  Wait, what was going on?  The flight attendant didn’t seem surprised and mentioned that this wasn’t uncommon.  I learned that Charleston was in a valley, with the airport on a mountain-top.  Hence the constant issue with the fog.  When asked, the flight attendant said that there was no guarantee on how long it would take for us to get clearance to go there.  Great!  I had complained about spending too much time in Charleston and now I was worried that I may not have enough.  Funny how things turn out!

...But ended up in Roanoke

I wasn’t sure where Roanoke was and a quick check once we landed told me that it was in Virginia, and about 3 hour car ride away from Charleston.  One of the ladies on our flight was headed to a wedding or was supposed to be in one.  She was in full panic mode and making calls to check there were rental cars.  Apparently there was just one and since I didn’t see her after we got off, I assumed that she decided to chance it on the road.  Roanoke was a small airport and we seemed to have caught them by surprise.  They were very laidback and with only a few flights in a day, their businesses probably worked on a schedule.  Since I had no idea how long we would be here, I went into the only place that served food and got coffee.  My fellow passengers settled in to get some beers and the only lady serving in this place had her hands full.  Our pilots and flight attendant also came in for coffee, which didn’t do much for my confidence that we would be departing soon.  I was hanging out in the waiting area as a lady near me was talking on the phone to check if she could get back to Charlotte.  In my mind I was already preparing an alternate strategy for this month since Charleston may not work out.

Beautiful sight through the mist

After an hour of waiting, they told us to get ready to board, though I wasn’t certain if that was to go to Charleston or back to Charlotte.  The gentleman sitting adjacent to me said as much and only when we started approaching the airport and I saw the incredibly beautiful sight of trees with colored leaves, that I was convinced that we were at “Charlie West”.  There was a thin mist in the air and the airport was indeed on a mountain top.  We landed less than 2 hours behind schedule and had definitely arrived before the poor lady who had decided to drive from Roanoke.  I came out of terminal to look for cabs and there were none.  In fact, there was no sign directing me towards them.  So I asked an airport employee and he mentioned that I had to call the cab company from the public phone.  So I did and the lady mentioned that she would dispatch a cab to come get me. It soon arrived and we were off.

Fist stop was for lunch

The drive into town reminded me of New England, primarily because of the beautiful colors, which was amazing considering we were in November.  It was pleasant, with a slight chill in the air and I mentioned to the driver that this place was pretty.  He agreed and said that people like living over here, despite the impression of being a rural place.  Considering that I was running behind schedule, I decided to delay my check-in and since I have my priorities straight, asked the driver to head straight to my lunch place.  As far as my luggage was concerned, all I had was a backpack and it wasn’t much of a hassle to carry it.  I had picked a spot near my afternoon activity and I was dropped on a street with a few buildings, one of which was called ‘Bluegrass Kitchen’.  The inside had two rooms, the bar area and the main dining room.  I decided to sit at the bar and was the only person there.  The food was good and the service friendly.  This place is known for their cocktails and the lady mentioned that the bartender would be there for the evening shift and that I should stop by.

The curious layout of the museum

Nearby was the ‘State Capitol’ and since I have tried to visit those buildings in other States, I had to stop by.  It was a short walk through a park and over there was also the ‘West Virginia State Museum’, which I was planning to visit first.  I walked through a big hall and asked the security folks about the museum and they said that it was a self-guided tour on the lower level and gave me a map, complete with a walking path.  It looked like the tour took one through the history of the state at various times and also had side detours called ‘Discovery Rooms”, to see some artifacts.  They also had lockers and so after depositing my bag in one, I took the escalator downstairs.

On the  path

Before starting I noticed that there was an auditorium playing a short animated film and I stopped to see it.  It was a fun story about a gentleman named “John Henry’, a young man who was born strong and using his hammers, helped build a railroad.  The culmination of the tale was a competition between him and a rail laying machine, where he worked tirelessly to beat the mechanical beast, demonstrating spirit and perseverance.  The film was narrated by Denzel Washington with music by B.B King, and though it was geared towards a younger audience, I found myself getting engrossed in the story.  I came out and located the entrance to the walking path, and then had one of the best experiences at a museum.

It was a fantastic museum

The path started in pre-historic times on a dirt trail, with what looked like a forest, and took the visitor past several “zones” such as “River Plains”, “The Fort” and even “Company Town”; finally culminating in the present era on an asphalt floor.  Each area had been decorated accordingly and the one called “Coal Mine” even resembled a mine with dark passage, coal trolleys and railway line.  There were 26 unique areas labeled “A” to “Z” and there were 26 corresponding “Discovery Rooms” which collected exhibits that told the story of West Virginia and its colonization.  This was one of the best ways to showcase the State, and how it came to be the place that it is today.  I have been to several State Museums and this one was one of the best, if not the most impressive in the way it was laid out.  It educated the visitor while immersing them within the history of the State.  If I did nothing else over this trip, visiting this museum would have made it worthwhile.

A quick stop at the 'Capitol'

I collected my bag and went over to the ‘Capitol’ and it was as impressive as some of the other ones that I have visited, though it wasn’t as accessible.  It seemed quite busy for a Saturday and there was some security around.  So I walked around the central dome and then came out and called an ‘Uber’, trying to locate the right area for my pickup.  Fortunately the driver found me and so I finally made it to my hotel.  After checking in I was told that there would be a “Manager’s Reception” soon - whatever that meant - with some drinks and snacks.  Well, I wasn’t going to wait around for that and so after dropping off my bag in the room, I set off.

The main street, though you wouldn't know it!

I walked on what I suppose was the main street in downtown, since it was lined with restaurants and bars on either side.  While street was quite pretty, it was also completely deserted…and on a Saturday evening.  I reached the waterfront and went to a place called ‘Boulevard Tavern’.  It had been advertised as a place for cocktails, but looked more like a “Dive Bar” on the inside.  There were 2 other people there and one of them looked like he had been there for a while.  I asked the bartender if they could make cocktails and she responded “Yes”, seemingly offended that I had my doubts.  So I ordered an “Old Fashioned”, to which she replied that they can only do mixers like “Jack and Coke”.  Hey, if that’s what passes off for a cocktail over here, then so be it.  I had time to spare and so ordered something and plugged in my earbuds to focus on my phone.  The gentleman who looked like he had imbibed a few came over for a chat and I just ignored him, at which he left.  My biggest concern was if he would waiting outside and I kept looking over my shoulder as I left the place.

The evening had set in...though still no people

The streets were still empty and I arrived at my next spot called ‘Celsius’, just as they were scheduled to open.  The door was closed and so I waited and after a few minutes peeked inside.  I saw people in there and so I knocked, upon which someone came and let me in.  It was then that I realized that this place had another entrance from a parallel street, which was typically used. So while I had been waiting on the street, people had already gathered and gotten a head start on their evening.  Well, I blame “Google Maps”.  I saw that the menu did advertise cocktails and fortunately they meant it.  Plus the place was bright and pleasant, meaning a much better experience for me as compared to the earlier one.

The lounge in 'Sam's Uptown Cafe'

I stayed here for an hour and things had not changed when I left.  There still wasn’t anyone on the streets.  I walked over some “manhole covers” that advertised the name of the company I work for – this is one of our territories – and so I took a picture and sent it to my colleagues; perhaps the most exciting thing of the evening so far.  I went to a place called ‘Bar 101’, which was attached to a restaurant, though it had its own space.  There was only one other person there besides me, though the restaurant looked like it was doing well.  I got a cocktail and it wasn’t a bad place to hang out.  The night had set in when I left and my next stop was a place called ‘Sam’s Uptown Café’. While it advertised itself as any other bar, supposedly there was a lounge upstairs.  Well, the lounge was an area with some couches and exposed brick wall.  It looked more like a coffee shop and the only thing they served was beer.  While there were people downstairs, I was the only person in the “lounge” and after sitting on the couch for some time, I left.

At 'Vino's Bar and Grill'

There was a place that I wanted to visit before dinner, but it opened at 8 pm and I had some time to spare.  So I went to another place called ‘Big Joe’s Bar & Grill’ and finally, a place which had some people.  Well, it was your typical watering hole with beer and football and an interesting place to really observe the locals in their natural habitat.  Being a college football night, everyone was quite engrossed in the games and I sat around till 8 pm and then headed back towards the waterfront.  The place was called ‘Vino’s Bar and Grill’ and I guess they were hoping to go for a vibe like an exclusive bar, but weren’t that successful.  The drinks were mediocre and the clientele questionable, especially since one guy started bothering me as I was waiting for my ‘Uber’.  What’s up with these places in Charleston?  While not a total loss, this had been less than a stellar evening for sure.

The creative 'Bricks & Barrels'

While researching places to eat, a few good ones had come up, though most of them closed early.  There was one that looked unique and was called ‘Bricks & Barrels’; and it was a bit away from this part of the town.  On the way there my driver told me that it wouldn’t have been a good idea to be in that neighborhood alone or without a ride.  As I entered the restaurant, I saw that the place had walls lined with bricks and there were barrels everywhere; hence the name.  There were areas that looked like they were inside a barrel as well as Whiskey barrels that passed off as tables.  I was assigned one such table and I liked the place.

My table

It was quite busy, more than any other place that I had been to this evening.  I ordered a soup for starters and promptly returned it back.  I typically do not do such things, but this passed off for nothing more than hot colored water.  As I did that, a middle-aged couple on the next table started a conversation with me and as with most places that I have visited, it ended with us talking about my travels and exchanging numbers.  The lady mentioned that her son would be at this pub tomorrow for brunch and that I should look him up as he and his friends would love to meet me.  Well, I was planning to go there, but much earlier in the day.  The rest of the meal was actually good, including a giant piece of “Tiramisu” that they served me.  It wasn’t a bad end and I headed to the hotel after what had been a very long day.

Not much happening on Sunday either

The next morning was overcast and it did feel like a "Fall day". I made my way down the empty main street – which did look pretty in this setting – to a place called ‘Taylor Books’.  It was your neighborhood book store with a café, which was what I was most interested in.  They had something called “Tuxedo Mocha” on the menu, which I ordered and found to be a regular “Mocha”.  I guess they expected people to be wearing tuxedos while drinking it, else it was good marketing - hey, it fooled me!  I sat there watching some other folks who were strolling in on this Sunday morning.  The book store wasn’t that big, but was attached to a small art gallery.  I walked through both for a bit and then went to get some brunch.

The kids area at the science museum

Right next door was a place called ‘Adelphia Sports Bar & Grille’ and they were probably the main destination for people looking to watch football.  There were a few folks over by the bar, but like most other places in this town, was quite empty.  I left before the start of any games, and walked a few blocks over to ‘Clay Center for the Arts and Sciences of West Virginia’, just as they were opening for the day.  As I purchased the ticket, I learned that there were 2 floors, with the one above being an art gallery and the one below being a play area for kids.  Well, the floor we were on was an “Omnimax”, which would be showing some science related film soon and since there wasn’t much here, I got a ticket for that.  There were 15 minutes to spare and so I went to the lower level and saw a couple of kids running around.  The museum had actually done a good job of creating different areas, which were models of shops and other buildings that you may find in a town, such as “Grocery Store”, “Garage”, “Restaurant”, “Medical Center” etc.  The models were realistic, for example, having aisles and demo food products in the “Grocery Store”, thus making it a fun experience for kids.  What did not look fun was a 3 story structure that was like a tree house with net and which the kids could climb, starting here and all the way up to the top floor.  Not something I would have done, but there were some kids attempting that.

A private show

I went over to the theater just before my show and there was no one there.  At the time that we were supposed to start, a gentleman came running, saying that he hadn’t realized that someone had gotten a ticket.  Yes, I was the only person for that show and the theater itself was quite big.  I almost felt embarrassed making him work the show – he was also the projectionist – for me, but I guess 1 ticket sold is better than none.  The film itself was kid friendly, though there were some interesting bits and being in “Omnimax” was always going to make anything seem special.  Plus, how often does one get a private show?  And I didn’t even have to book the entire theater!

Inside 'Capitol Market'

After the show I went to the top floor which was an art gallery of sorts and they had some interesting pieces, but it did not take me long to walk through it.  By the time I left the museum, people had slowly started coming in and so my decision to come early had been good.  Not too far from here was a place called ‘Capitol Market’, which was essentially an indoor market for various local vendors.  I walked over there and the inside was not unlike other places that I have seen elsewhere.  It was winding down for the day and after a round, I called for an ‘Uber’.  Since the market had two entrances on parallel streets, finding each other was an adventure.  This caused me to run between the two doors, trying to locate the car, and I was being watched with some confusion by the folks in there.  But I eventually found my ride and we were off.

The beautiful 'Sunrise Carriage Trail'

Just across the river and next to the train station, was a hill on top of which were some expensive houses.  Running on the side of the hill was a trail called ‘The Sunrise Carriage Trail’, which was less than a mile, but by all accounts was a beautiful walk through the trees.  Constructed in the early 1900’s for carriages – hence the name – going up to the mansions, it was now a protected area for public to enjoy.  I got dropped off at the base of the trail and started walking up.  It wasn’t a steep climb and it was quite pretty, especially with some of the colors around me.  In fact, I saw several folks posing for pictures and some even looked like they were working with professionals.  At several places along the winding path one could stop and look at the downtown across the river.  It didn’t take me too long to reach the top where “Private Property” signs greeted me and so I turned around and went back down.  It was a good way to spend some time and a pleasant hike.

A walk before my flight

I still had plenty of time left before my flight and so walked across the bridge and through a riverfront park - well, as much as you can call a lawn park.  Then I did what I typically do when at a loss for ideas on how to spend time; go to the mall.  Barring a few exceptions, once inside a mall, it is easy to forget which city you are in.  For the last couple of days I had been wondering where all of the people were and now I knew.  Everyone was at the mall.  I did a walk-through, stopping at a book store for a bit.  Right next door was ‘Marriott Hotel’ and they were supposedly known for their cocktail bar, ‘Brick Salt Bar + Kitchen’.  It wasn’t much to look at, but the bartender did make a decent drink.  I returned back to my hotel and it was still too early to head for the airport. So I stopped at the hotel restaurant called ‘The Athletic Club’ to watch some football over a beer and there were several folks doing that.  I left just as “Manager’s Reception” was commencing, and which looked like some munchies arranged as a buffet.  Well, now I knew. 

Farewell to Charleston

I took an ‘Uber’ back to the airport and sat around waiting for my flight.  Fortunately there wasn’t any problem with either this or my connecting flight in Charlotte, other than me arriving back home, way after midnight.  This had been an interesting trip.  I had been concerned that there wouldn’t be much to do in Charleston, even for one day.  For most parts that was true, but by no means had this been a boring visit.  There is much to like about this place, and though there hadn’t been many people on the street, the ones I had met were fantastic.  Plus, I had seen - in my opinion - one of the great Museums outlining a State’s history.  But one thing this trip confirmed was that West Virginia was indeed the beautiful land that I had first heard John Denver describe all those years ago.

37. Colorado

Month: October 2017

Location: Denver

My only previous visit to Denver had been a few years ago and had also been in October.  It had been a business visit and so I did not have an opportunity to explore a lot.  However, my colleague and I did get a chance to drive up to the ‘Rockies’ and while it had been bright and sunny at the base, it had been snowing up in the mountains.  Whatever the weather, there was no denying the beauty of the place and I was looking forward to visiting.  Plus I would be going there in style.  I had some “frequent flyer miles” with ‘American Airlines’ that were expiring soon and I could salvage them by travelling “First Class”.  Well, at least one way.  I had called them months ago, in fact in last December to set this up and had tried to get the “First Class” for the return journey.  But that wasn’t available, so while I would be going there in luxury, I would soon be "amongst the people" on the way back.

Life in the "First Class"

I was leaving on Friday morning and would be arriving in Denver in time for lunch.  However as famously stated in “Jerry Maguire”, being in “First Class” is a different life!  I was presented with a 3-course meal and I just couldn’t turn away a warm “Chocolate Chip Cookie”!  It looked like a beautiful day as we landed at Denver airport, which prides itself on design, with a lot of natural light.  It was also very crowded and I had to weave through a mass of humanity to make my way towards the train station.  The train ride into downtown was about 40 minutes and the thing I noticed through the windows was that apart from the mountains in the distance, the outskirts of Denver is flat and also has a yellow hue to its landscape.

Not many places left with real keys

I arrived at ‘Union Station’ in the heart of downtown and it was perfectly situated for where I was staying, as my hotel was right across the street.  As I checked in, I learned that the ‘The Oxford Hotel’ was the oldest hotel in Denver and it looked like it…in a charming way.  They used an actual key to get into rooms and the size of those meant that you needed to return them to the main desk every time you left the hotel.  What next? Will they also take messages for you when out?  One of the other interesting things was a “Birdcage” next to the reception with tiny birdie in it.  They mentioned that his name was Sherman and it seemed like he was the greeter for every visitor.

Beautiful day to be in this city

I dropped off my bags and after “returning” my keys, called for an ‘Uber’.  I was picked up by a gentleman with whom I had a great conversation.  It was a beautiful day and I mentioned that, wherein he told me that this was Denver 300 days of the year.  He said that he was dating a girl from Chicago and so had visited Chicago several times.  But when the topic came up regarding his move there, he said no thanks and that was it as far as their relationship was concerned.  “I was shocked to hear Chicago does not have mountain bikes for rentals”, he said.  “Those scoundrels”, I replied.  But I totally got it though, since I loved what I was seeing and had a strong suspicion that by the end of the trip I would be ready to call this one of my favorites.

A walk through the park

He dropped me off at a place called ‘Denver Biscuit Company’ and while they are known for their Biscuits – hence the name – they seemed to be advertising a lot of pizza.  I was seated at an elevated counter overlooking the bar, which gave me a great view of everything that was happening in the restaurant, and it was a lively place.  I ordered their signature biscuit sandwich which had everything that is good in this world and having been properly introduced to Denver, I was ready to proceed.  I was headed to ‘Denver Museum of Nature & Science’, which was just a short walk away.  I walked down a narrow street lined with residential houses and reached a park with walking trails and even a pond.  It was a beautiful walk, especially with the colors of October, and I could see the museum in the distance.  Well, seeing it was one thing, finding the entrance took some detours to closed doors.

The best thing about the museum was the view from the top

The familiar sight of a “Dinosaur” greeted me in the lobby of the museum, as if it is a requirement for any museum to get certified!  A quick glance at the map told me that this was a big place, with the bottom floor dedicated to the “Science” and the upper level addressing the “Nature”.  There were a lot of kids around, especially near all of the “astronomy” related exhibits and which had some activities for them to do.  I walked through that gallery, as well as a very good one on “Gems and Minerals”, and then went to the 2^nd floor.  There was a comprehensive selection of galleries dedicated to different geographical regions and cultures with dioramas.  They were similar to some of the other “Natural History” museums in major cities and were impressive to see here.  The 3^rd floor had a couple of “Special Exhibits”, but the highlight for me was going up a separate elevator to the 4^th floor terrace.  That presented a fantastic view of the downtown across the park and was definitely worth a visit.  It was now time to get back to the said downtown, for evening was drawing close and that meant time for me to explore the bars.

The elegant 'Cooper Lounge'

I called an ‘Uber’ to pick me up and considering this place was a bit remote, it took the driver 10 minutes to get there.  We had a good conversation on the way, regarding some of development around downtown and the “gentrification” therein.  I got dropped at ‘Union Station’, which besides being a train station, is a public entertainment area complete with restaurants and bars.  All of those were lined around the central hall where the passengers wait, though the place I was going to wasn’t the easiest to locate.  After asking a couple of other businesses, I was directed to a stairway leading to a bar on the first level, called ‘Cooper Lounge’.  It overlooked the hall below and had comfortable couches where people could relax after a long day.  But I sat at their immaculate looking bar, which with its white counter-top looked quite amazing against a backdrop of golden whiskey bottles.  I chatted with the bartender, who made a really good cocktail, and watched him work as a lot many folks were now coming in.  More importantly, I was watching the clock, since I had to be at a specific place on time.

The secret entrance to the bar...

I have made it my mission to visit the best “Speakeasy Bars” in each place that I visit and there was one over here, called ‘Williams & Graham’.  The place was reputed to be extremely popular; so much so that I would have to be there right at the opening time of 5 pm.  I took an ‘Uber’ to the place, which was a bit away from the downtown and arrived 15 minutes in advance.  The bar is disguised as a Book Store and was locked.  So I stood outside and very soon a line started forming behind me.  I noticed a group of young men walking out of a store across the street, each carrying a prescription medication bag that one usually associates with Pharmacies.  I thought that this scene would have been more appropriate at a “Senior Home” and for some time much further along in their life.  Then I looked at the sign outside the store which advertised itself as selling “Denver’s finest Cannabis”, Colorado being a State where it is legalized.  A bit too early in the evening for that, but who was I to judge considering that I was standing outside a bar, waiting for it to open!

...and behind it

Exactly at 5 I heard a latch open and I was escorted inside a small room with a table and a bookshelf.  The lady behind the desk checked my ID and then after a brief wait, the bookshelf opened and I walked inside a dark bar, similar to all of the cozy cocktail places that I love.  I took a seat at the bar and perused the creative menu, during which time multiple people asked if I had been there before.  I had read about one of their popular drinks called “Becky With The Good Hair” and asked if they could make it for me.  Well, the person who used to do that wasn’t there anymore, but they were a determined lot and so tracked down the person over the phone as well as the recipe.  Fortunately they had all of the ingredients and so while they figured it out, I ordered another drink with a great name – “Breakfast At Tiffany’s” – and looked around at the place which was now full.  It had taken all of 15 minutes and I was glad to have come early.  After having the much advertised drink, which was good without being great, I left via the side exit to go to my next place.

The beautiful bar at 'Ste Elle'

It was a beautiful evening as I walked through that neighborhood and across a cute pedestrian bridge to a bar called ‘Ste. Elle’.  Unlike the earlier place, this one was empty, barring a couple of folks.  It was also a good looking place with elegant interiors and a bar-top that looked like it was marble lit from below.  I ordered a drink called “The Loneliest Monk”, which looked great when placed on that counter-top.  After staying there for a bit I started walking towards the heart of downtown, which took me under some bridges with narrow sidewalks and across railway lines, till I arrived at a cross street which looked like party central.  There were lights running across a street, which had restaurants, bars and retail shops along the sidewalks.  I was going to a place called ‘Green Russell’, which was located behind a “secret door” and upon entering looked like a classic bar.  While it had the dark interiors, it was much livelier and boisterous than any other “speakeasy”.  I got a seat at the bar and chatted with the bartender named Merlin, who offered me a drink called “Winter’s Coming”.  I really enjoyed my time here and told Merlin that I would try to come back the next day.

It was a splendid evening for a walk

One of the streets running through downtown Denver has been commercialized to the extreme and made pedestrian friendly.  People were hanging out, shopping, or in one of the many restaurants and bars, enjoying the fine evening.  I walked down that towards ‘Brown Palace Hotel’, one of the historic and certainly the fanciest hotels in Denver.  I was having dinner at their premier restaurant, ‘Palace Arms', and since there was some time prior to my reservation, I went to the hotel bar called ‘Churchill’s’.  I lasted all of 2 minutes as I realized that it was a “Cigar Lounge”, almost choking on the smoke on my way out.  I got to my restaurant and was seated in a very old, stuffy looking place.  But the dinner was good, though I was tired and ready for bed.  As soon as I was done, I called an ‘Uber’ back to my hotel, remembering to pick up my key at the desk.  I looked at Sherman’s cage and it was covered up since the little fella was asleep.  Sounded like a great plan to me.

A fantastic cafe for a morning coffee

It was a bright morning as I left my hotel and headed to the ‘Museum of Contemporary Art’, which was a short walk away.  I arrived a few minutes after its opening and was the first visitor of the day.  The entrance to the museum was via a narrow ramp that led to large doors which slid open when I approached, like it was a closed parking garage.  I guess they wanted to go for a “rustic” look.  It wasn’t a very big museum, though they did have a rooftop café and I was in need of coffee.  I took an elevator up to the roof and was immediately impressed.  Not only was there a garden that one could walk through, the roof presented visitors with a great view of the city and the mountains.  Plus, the café was pleasant on the inside, with plenty of natural light coming in.  And I was the only person in there.

Felt like the bottom of a pool

After a cup of “Cappuccino” – because this was a museum after all – I came down to explore the galleries.  Like most other “Modern Art” museums, the rooms were white, and sparsely filled; so much so that sometimes there was just one exhibit in a big room.  There were a couple of other visitors in there thought it was still too early in the day for a museum.  It did not take me long to walk through the galleries and the most interesting one for me was the basement.  The flooring was composed of blue and white tiles of different shades, making it appear like the bottom of a drained swimming pool.  I was unsure if visitors were allowed to step on it, but in the end it was still a floor!  So I walked over it and then left the museum for an early lunch.

A quick stop for lunch

There was a sandwich shop called ‘Masterpiece Delicatessen’ which by all accounts was a popular spot with the locals.  It was also located in the same neighborhood that I had been last evening when I visited ‘Williams & Graham’ and ‘Ste. Elle’.  So I made the same trek back, but in reverse, and this time passed by what looked like a street market.  But unlike other places, this one was dedicated for “outdoor adventure” gear.  I guess this really is a town where people love their outdoors.  The deli was a small place with just a few tables outdoors and even fewer inside.  I ordered a sandwich and found a table inside, for a quick lunch.  I called an ‘Uber’ and after driving by a few times past me, he finally stopped.  My doubts about the effectiveness of this driver were further confirmed when I saw him drive without a seat belt.  I got to my location, or at least in the vicinity, since he dropped me a block away.

On the "Ski Jump"

I was going to ‘History Colorado Center’, which I guessed was the “State History Museum”.  The entrance was a grand hall with what looked like a giant map of Colorado on the floor.  My ticket came with a free entry to some other “historic house” in the neighborhood, thought I wouldn’t have any time to visit this afternoon.  I started on the top floor and this proved to be a really good museum.  Besides the usual artifacts in the galleries, there were some interactive exhibits, the most interesting one being a “Ski Jump Simulator”.  There were 2 skis on the floor and a video screen in front.  The idea was to step on the skies and as the video simulated your decent down the slope, you were required to bend and straighten your legs and body in order to make a perfect jump.  Well, despite multiple attempts, I ended up wiping out each time.  There were other interesting things like recreation of an old Colorado Town and other videos showcasing the mountains around the city.  It certainly was one of the impressive museums that I have seen.

The futuristic 'Denver Art Museum'

I had allocated most of the afternoon to visiting ‘Denver Art Museum’ and on the way there walked through the ‘Denver Central Library’.  The art museum is spread over two buildings that are connected by a “sky bridge” and while one of them is a traditional building, the other looks like a metal space ship or some other alien structure.  I wanted to go on a guided tour, which was scheduled to start at 2 pm and a decent sized group had assembled at the meeting point when I arrived.  Our docent took us to the top level of this building, where we would be walking through a special exhibit called “Mi Tierra”.  The museum had invited 13 Mexican-American artists to showcase installation with their interpretation of “My Earth”.  Each of those were unique and they were outstanding.  In fact, this turned out to be one of the best themed exhibits that I have ever seen at a museum.

The fantastic exhibits of "Mi Tierra'

Our guide mentioned that it would not be possible to see all of them, but would try to cover as many as possible. We started off at an installation which was a wall made of one-way mirror and had projections of the US on one side and Mexico on the other.  The reflective surface was facing Mexico whereas from the US side you could see through.  I mentioned to the guide that I would have expected it to be the other way, with the US folks looking at the wall and seeing only a reflection of their territory, while Mexican folks could look at the land of opportunity.  I am sure that the artist had their reasons though.  Another great exhibit was as colorful as any that I have seen.  The artist had used nothing but colored tissue paper strips and created an entire landscape on the walls and a garden in the middle of the room, through which visitors could walk.  It was one of the most painstakingly created works on art and the guide mentioned that it took the artist and their apprentices hundreds of man-hours to complete this.

One of my favorites

Another exhibit was a video of an artist who was covering her entire body in black paint while a story of oppression played out in the background.  The idea was to show how a human body was being “suffocated” and very soon the person disappeared into darkness.  There were some paintings and video films, as well as a brightly lit room which represented a Mexican retail store.  But my absolute favorite was an installation of taut multicolored strings that looked like a rainbow from afar.  It was optically deceiving, since the shades changed as one walked towards the strings or even under them.  However, what made this genius was the location.  The modern art building has only one window in all of its 4 floors.  And this installation had been located right next to the window such that the strings resembled the light coming in through the window and breaking into its constituent colors…as if going through a prism.  Talk about painstaking assembly.  This was as labor intensive as things get.

This had been one of my best museum experiences

We saw a couple more installations and after the tour was over, I spent additional time in this gallery.  Art can take many forms and this was an example of that.  This was probably the best experience that I have had in an art museum during my travels.  I went through some of the other galleries in this building and then took the bridge over to the more traditional building.  That one had 7 floors worth of galleries, ranging from “European Renaissance” to “African” to “Asian” art pieces.  One could easily spend an entire day in this museum and I had barely scratched the surface in my 2+ hours here.  I wanted to call an ‘Uber’ to go to my next destination, but with the layout of the buildings, wasn’t sure if the driver would be able to find me.  So I walked back to the ‘History Museum” and waited for my pickup, while shivering in the surprisingly chilly wind.

My favorite drink so far

I asked to be dropped off at a place called ‘Sidecar Lounge’, which was just about getting ready for the Saturday evening.  I spent some time there before walking over to the main part of town – where I had seen all of the bars and restaurants – for a visit to ‘Union Lodge No. 1’, another reputed place for cocktails.  It was a blustery evening and I arrived just as they were about to open.  Apparently their reputation was known to others as well since there was another group who were also waiting.  They opened the doors but were still not ready for us and looked annoyed that people were already there.  This raised doubt regarding the quality of service here, which was further emphasized after seeing their indifferent behavior behind the bar.  However, all was forgiven once I tasted the concoction that they were known for, “Gin Fizz”.  I am not a Gin drinker and this one looked like a Milkshake as the lady made it.  But man, once it was put together, the flavors were something that I had not tasted in a cocktail for a long time.  This may not have been my favorite bar in Denver so far, but was certainly the best drink.

There was a bar behind this freezer

I decided to walk to the next stop called ‘Retrograde’ and while it was just a mile away, it took me away from downtown into a residential neighborhood.  I arrived at the address and found a “Frozen Yogurt” place.  I walked up and down the street as the owner of the establishment looked at me and finally stepped in.  Before I could say anything he asked if I was looking for the bar and when I replied in the affirmative, he pointed to a freezer and said that it was behind it.  Aah, another hidden bar!  I was asked to flip on a light switch and when I did so, a gentleman came out and asked how many guests. When I said one, he closed the door and went back in.  After a brief wait he came back to get me and I entered a dark room with a 3 sided bar with a beautifully lit wall and storage for the bottles.  The menu was based on just 3 words to describe drinks and I chose something called “Trinity”, which was described as “Boozy – Butterscotch – Endearing”.  Well, not sure if I would apply all of those terms here, but “Boozy” certainly fit the bill.

And this was it

The place got crowded over time and when it was time to leave, I was shown a side exit, meaning I did not have to emerge from the freezer.  I called an ‘Uber’ to go to my next destination, which also was away from downtown in a residential neighborhood.  It was a bar called ‘Nocturne’ and as I went inside, the hostess mentioned that right now it was standing room only and there was a cover charge to see some band.  Well, I wasn’t going to do that and so I left.  There were a few other bars over here that I had identified as interesting and so I started walking towards one called ‘Finn’s Manor’.  The evening had set in and I saw some families out for a walk.  I arrived at my destination and it was overflowing with people.  Besides being a bar, this was also a “food truck pod”, with several trucks lined up along a brightly lit courtyard which was full.  The bar area itself did not have room to move, let alone sit.  So that was it for me and I decided to move on.

An "Art Gallery"?

A few streets away was a place called ‘Bar Fausto’ and this one did have some room at the bar.  It was also a restaurant and the quality of food coming out of the kitchen looked good. I ordered a drink whose ingredient list comprised of things like “Immature Brandy”, “Contest to Blanco” and “White Chocolate washed Averna”.  It looked too weird to pass on, though the end product was very traditional looking cocktail.  I stayed for some time, trying hard not to order any food since I had plans later.  I still had some time and so decided to visit one final place which was nearby.  While I am glad I went, getting there was an adventure.

Nope, another hidden bar

The bar was called ‘Miller’s & Rossi’ and my trusted map told me that it was few blocks away on a parallel street.  What it did not mention was that the street would be deserted and with no lights and under construction, meaning there were no sidewalks and that there weren’t any commercial properties around.  If there was ever a location for someone to get mugged or worse, this was it.  I was already committed and so continued on, walking as briskly as I could and in the middle of the street.  I arrived at what looked like a building with shared industrial space, similar to what I have encountered while doing “Escape Rooms”.  This one was an “Art Gallery” and there was a door at the back with a liquor bottle.  Obviously a “speakeasy” and a gentleman let me inside, which was typical of the umpteen hidden bars that I have visited.  The difference was that there was a projector which was playing “The Wizard of Oz”, while the TV over the bar was playing “E.T.”.  It was a nice place to relax and stay, and while I did for a bit, I had to make it to my dinner reservations.

Tim set me up with "Whiskey & Cookies"

I was going to a place called ‘Mizuna’ and it took an ‘Uber’ ride to get there.  Well, after my experience getting here, I would have called a ride even if the restaurant was 100 yards away!  A couple of weeks ago I had attended a “Punch making competition” in Chicago where bartenders from around the country were displaying their skills.  I saw that one of them was a gentleman named Tim, from ‘Mizuna’.  I had told him that I had reservations there and he asked me to look him up.  As I arrived, I saw that he was behind the bar and so I told the hostess that I would just sit over there rather than get a table.  Over the next hour or so I enjoyed chatting with Tim and enjoying one of the best "tasting menus" that I have had.  Plus Tim gave me a sample of some of his “Barrel aged” cocktails.  But the best part was talking with a couple next to me who traveled the world seeing “Formula 1” races.  We reminisced over our favorite memories, most of them about the incomparable Michael Schumacher.  We exchanged numbers at the end of the evening and then after saying goodbye to Tim, I returned back to my hotel and called it a night.

My kinda brunch

I took my time leaving the hotel since my first stop of the day was for brunch…not just any brunch.  This one was called “Dom Perignon Sunday Brunch” at ‘Ellyington’s at Brown Palace’.  It was a nice day and so I walked over to ‘Brown Hotel’, my second visit there after my dinner on Friday.  I had made a reservation and good thing too, since the dining room was full of people.  This was an elegant place that took its Sunday brunch seriously, as was evident by the decor, the service and the offerings.  I was greeted by a “Chocolate Fountain” as I entered and with a glass of champagne when I took a seat.  The spread was extensive and outstanding.  After a few trips I was full, but then the dessert station beckoned.  It was unfortunate that I had plans after this since “bottomless champagne” doesn’t come around often and I couldn’t make the most of it.

Surprises in the 'Molly Brown House'

I had time for just one more activity and I decided to go for a tour of ‘Molly Brown House Museum’, over visiting the ‘Capitol’.  This was a shame since I always made it a point to visit it in other states.  I rushed by ‘Uber’ to try and make an earlier tour, but it was sold out.  In fact, I was lucky to get a ticket for the tour starting in 30 minutes.  That did give me a chance to watch an introductory video about the lady named Margaret Brown, who was called “Molly” or even better, “The Unsinkable Molly Brown”.  That was because she was one of the survivors of ‘Titanic’.  But she was better known as a “philanthropist” and a “social activist”, especially the “women’s movement”.  This was her family’s house from the late “19^th century” and now a museum.  The tour itself was like any other “historic house” tour that I have taken, though with a very humorless docent. The house had been setup for Halloween themed tours and so there were surprises in many rooms. Once the tour was over, it was time to say goodbye to Denver. 

I returned back to my hotel to collect my bag, said goodbye to Sherman, and then walked over to the train station.  The train back to the airport was as full as any I have seen in Chicago.  This had been one of my favorites, if not the favorite, places to visit.  It is a fantastic place, with an excellent city life, and the mountains in the distance.  I would totally move here and not miss a beat.  In fact, it may end up being an upgrade in lifestyle.