39. Hawaii – Part 2

Month: December 2017

Location: O’ahu & Big Island

I was told to be ready for pickup at 5:50 am on the hotel’s side street. I arrived with 10 minutes to spare and saw a small coach waiting there.  The driver, Dennis - who would be our guide for the day - told me that I was the first of the pickups and the only one from this hotel, meaning we did not need to wait and could be on our way.  I learned that Dennis was originally from Detroit and had come to Hawaii years ago and stayed.  I asked why on earth were we starting at this hour and he said that we would need all of the allocated time.  First, we had to visit 7 other hotels to pick up my fellow tourists.  We went around the Waikiki area to multiple hotels and each time we picked someone up, Dennis would do a roll call naming the places where people were from.  So I was “Chicago” and we had “New Hampshire”, 2 sets of “Florida’s”, 2 sets of “Australia’s” and several other places.  At one place we had to leave without a family since they weren’t there, but eventually went back to pick them up since there had been some misunderstanding.  However, by 6:30 am all were on board and we were off to Pearl Harbor.

Early morning start

On the way there Dennis kept regaling us with information, such as the origin of the word “Waikiki”, which meant “Sprouting Water” – since there was plenty of that here – as well as information on Pearl Harbor, especially what happened that fateful day on December 7, 1941.  We would of course learn a lot about that today.  There were 4 main monuments that we would be visiting, and the first 2 were located at our first stop.  After spending a few hours there, we would be travelling to the other 2, which were on an active military base.  No bags were allowed at either site, unless it was transparent.  Also, no bags could be left on the bus since Dennis was going to pick up another lot of tourists while we were visiting the first site.  That was because no tour guide could be present with their group while visiting the monuments.  I guess this made sense since it would be mayhem with multiple stories being told to each group in close proximity near the monuments.  While I did not have any bag, one person in our group did, and he was told that he would have to check it in for the day and would only get it back at the very end.

Pearl Harbor

Dennis had told us to expect a long line and I thought he was exaggerating since it wasn’t even 7 am, but boy was I wrong.  The line seemed to extend for a mile.  Dennis said that this was because the gates were closed and once they opened, the line would move fast since there wasn’t a ticket window at the gate to slow anyone.  Fortunately, this turned to be true and by 7:10 am, all of us were inside.  Dennis gave us tickets for our tour of the ‘U.S.S. Arizona Memorial’, which was at 9:30 am.  We would be taking a ferry to see it and Dennis even told us where to sit on the Ferry so as to get good pictures.  There was some time before that and so Dennis suggested that we visit the ‘U.S.S. Bowfin Submarine’ first and then take a tour of the various exhibit halls.  He said that while there weren’t tickets, we could whisper the magic words “Dennis The Menace” at the gate and we would be handed audio guides.  Looks like Dennis was a popular character here.  Before he departed, Dennis said that we would pick us up at “Eleven One Five”, saying that “11:15” sounded very much like “11:50”.

On board 'U.S.S. Bowfin'

I went over to the submarine and walked through the interior, listening to my audio guide at marked spots.  One submarine is same as another and this one was like any other that I had seen.  I walked through the halls with exhibits and even then there was a still a lot of time before our tour of ‘U.S.S. Arizona Memorial’.  I got some coffee at the gift shop and sat on the benches watching tourists walk around with their gift bags – which curiously weren’t transparent.  The visit to the memorial would be preceded by a short film and Dennis had told us to be at the front the queue trying to get into the theater, so as to be closer to the exit when going to the ferry.  I went and stood in the staging area as soon as the earlier group went inside and over the next 15 minutes a big crowd had assembled.  As the doors opened, one lady grabbed hold of her kids and with poor husband behind her, rushed in like it was a “Black Friday Sales”.  Inside, people were frantically blocking seats and it was clear that Dennis wasn’t the only person with information.

'U.S.S. Arizona Memorial'

The film was the story of what happened on the day of the attack, including archival footage.  Several battleships were sunk that morning, with ‘Arizona’ being the biggest disaster. 1,177 sailors lost their lives that day on this ship alone.  The memorial was built on the exact spot above the sunken battleship, the remnants of which could still be seen through the water.  This is also the final resting place of the sailors who went down with the ship.  As soon as the film ended, there was a mad scramble to get out, led by the lady who was determined to be first on the ferry.  I managed to get a seat on the side which Dennis had recommended and as we approached the memorial, I could see why.  The structure is white and shaped like a boat, with large windows on either side to let in natural light.  It also lies perpendicular to the actual ship, so that you walk over the main deck and can see some parts sticking out of the water.  But the main attraction was the memorial wall which had the names of all who were sacrificed in the attack.

Inside the memorial

A lady told us to assemble by the wall and over there we heard a remarkable story.  Not everyone on board died in the attack.  There were survivors and a few years ago when one passed on owing to old age, he wrote in his will that his final wish was to be reunited with his shipmates.  The U.S. Navy and the National Park Services granted his wish by having a ceremony at twilight in front of his family, where divers took the urn with his ashes and placed it inside the battleship.  Since then this honor has been extended to every surviving member and all of them have accepted.  Very soon the last of them would be gone and everyone who was on board that fateful morning will be together again.  This story and many such moments over the last 3 years is why I am proud to be doing these travels.

The guns on 'U.S.S. Missouri'

We got back on the ferry and returned to the main park. There was enough time for me to redeem my “free hot dog” coupon that Dennis had given us.  At “Eleven One Five” we all gathered at the spot where he met us and we were back on the bus.  Next stop was ‘U.S.S. Missouri Battleship’, which was a short ride away and on an actual Naval Base. At the entrance we had to stop for our bus to be searched. Once inside, Dennis dropped us off and told us to meet him at a certain time and then he was off.  The ship itself was quite big and would be the second battleship that I would have visited this year, after seeing ‘U.S.S. Yorktown’ in Charleston.  A guided tour of the deck was about to start and I joined the group.  The lady started by telling us about the firepower of the battleship, which was evident by looking at the massive guns.  In fact, no one was supposed to be on the deck when they were fired owing to the sound and the shock waves.  However, the most important part of the deck was the place where the official “Japanese surrender” took place.  There were several signatures that were inked on paper that day and the pen that General MacArthur used that day.  In that regard this ship played a vital role in the conclusion of WWII.

The 'U.S.S. Oklahoma Memorial'

There was a self-guided tour through the interior of the ship and the winding path took one to all the places such as the sleeping quarters, recreation rooms, dining rooms, galley etc.  It was a similar to the tour I had taken on ‘Yorktown’ and I followed the path till the exit, which deposited me back on the deck.  There was still some time before we were to meet Dennis, but I was done here and so walked back to the pick-up spot, stopping at the ‘U.S.S. Oklahoma Memorial'.  This was another battleship that was sunk in the attack and the memorial was done as rows of pillars, one for each fallen sailor.  Dennis arrived soon and we all got aboard for our next destination, ‘The Pacific Aviation Museum’.  We were to have a 90 minute guided tour of the main hall and a separate hanger, which carried aircraft's from the war.

Inside the 'Pacific Aviation Musuem'

The lobby of the museum was fascinating, because the entire floor was a satellite image of Pearl Harbor and its neighboring area.  The interesting one was the ‘Aloha Stadium’ which is primarily used for Football, but the stands can actually move and reorganize, to transform into a Baseball stadium.  There are of course many other stadiums where the two sports are played, but none which have movable stands.  There was still some time before our tour and so everyone in our group made a beeline towards the café for some refreshments.  I got myself a local beer and chips and saw that almost everyone was loading up on the beer.  We all gathered for the tour and the gentleman, who was our guide, took us through the main hall pointing out on the map how the actual attack unfolded and where everyone was at the time.  It was interesting to hear about it from that tactical standpoint and even more so when he showed us some of the aircraft that were involved, including the bombs and the bullet holes.  One can only imagine the horror of that day and how it changed the course of the war.

The hangar

We went outside and walked to a hangar – this is an actual airfield for private planes – and saw some more aircraft's.  At the end of the 90 minutes I was quite tired as this had been a long day.  As we arrived back, Dennis was waiting for us, having picked up his other group and dropped them back at their hotel.  This was efficiency at its finest, as the tour company had managed to pull off a full day and a half day tour using the same bus and driver.  The final part of the tour was a drive through downtown Honolulu and a brief stop at the palace for some exterior pictures.  By this time I had a headache and decided to stay inside, even closing my eyes for a bit.  Dennis continued to tell us about the history of downtown and pointed out a park where some decorations for the holidays had been put up and encouraged us to come back and visit in the evening.  With that, we headed back to Waikiki Beach and the tour was over.

The bookcase concealing the 'Study Bar'

Luckily, I was the first to be dropped off and I thanked Dennis for his enthusiasm and the stories.  I grabbed some coffee and went up to my room to nap for an hour, because I really needed that rest.  At 5:30 pm, I took a ride to ‘The Modern Hotel’, which had a “hidden” bar called ‘The Study Bar’.  As I entered the lobby and asked for directions, the gentleman pointed to the wall behind me and mentioned that it would open at 6.  And when he said open, he meant “open”.  The entire wall was a book shelf and while I have been to several bars where the book case opens to reveal the entrance, in this case the entire wall slid open diagonally to let people inside.  This would be happening at 6 pm and while I waited, a small crowd started to gather.  Sure enough, the wall opened a little after 6 and the room inside was setup like a lounge, where one walked up to the bar to order a drink and then carry it to wherever they wanted to sit.  I did just that and for the next 45 minutes, watched as people came in and by the time I left, the place was getting full.

'Lewar's Lounge'

I called a ride to return back to ‘Halekulani Hotel’, which I had visited for dinner on my first night.  This time I was going to a place called ‘Lewar’s Lounge’, which was a classic cocktail bar with dark interiors, comfortable chairs and a white-jacketed bartender.  It was a relaxing spot that made some good martinis and I enjoyed my time there.  There was still some time before my dinner appointment and so I went upstairs and back to ‘L ’Aperitif’, with their fancy drinks, that come paired with small bites.  I got a ‘Hemmingway Old Fashioned’ that came with a bite of “Prosciutto Pineapple” and struck up a conversation with a gentleman next to me, a commercial pilot from New Zealand who was vacationing with his family.  We talked on a variety of topics ranging from sports, to travels to food and cocktails and I mentioned that I may be back here and see him again next week after my return from The Big Island.

Dinner by the beach

I was going for dinner at a place called ‘Azure’ and it was located in ‘The Royal Hawaiian Hotel’.  The map said that it was close by, though finding it turned out to be a nightmare.  The Waikiki Beach area had come alive and the place was crowded.  I was lost and entered what looked like a shopping arcade and asked a shop owner for directions.  The person was kind enough to walk with me through the length of the place till I emerged outside on the other side.  Even then it wasn’t straight forward and after several wrong turns, I reached my destination.  I was seated outside, a few steps away from the beach, making this a fantastic location for dinner.  I was still seething though and told the manager that they needed better directions.  But the ambiance cooled me off soon, as did the special “Christmas Eve Dinner”.  It was a nice end to this very long day and I came back to my room, ready for bed.

A beautiful Christmas morning

I woke up on Christmas morning with the challenge of re-packing my 2 bags.  After stuffing everything in, I left it with the “Bell Desk” and started walking towards the only restaurant that I had found to be open for lunch.  It was a place called ‘Cream Pot’ and it was a mile away, so I decided to walk.  It was a gorgeous day and the walk took me across a couple of bridges over the river and I arrived at what looked like a beautiful garden entrance to the restaurant.  I guess they took their privacy a bit too seriously, since there were signs warning us against photography inside the restaurant.  It was a bright looking interior with both, private tables as well as a community table in the center.  They were known for their “Soufflé Pancakes”, though I stuck to savory eggs  The interesting thing about this place was that they shared the restroom with other businesses in the building and the way to get inside was using a key.  That is quite common and many coffee shops have similar system with keys attached to plastic spoons.  Over here they had attached it to a skillet…cast iron skillet, meaning that going to the bathroom was a workout in itself!  Also, I noticed a lot of people gathered in the corridors signing forms and it looked like they had gathered for an audition on this Christmas morning.

The entrance to 'Cream Pot'

After brunch I walked back to the hotel and since there was some time left, went to ‘Ala Moana Shopping Center’, which was deserted.  Every single shop was closed and there were just a few people hanging around, doing whatever people do in empty malls!  I came back, collected my bags and called a ride to the airport.  On the way there I discussed inter-island travel with my driver and he mentioned that ‘Hawaiian Airlines’ pretty much had a monopoly on that, since there were no ferries and no other competitors.  The terminal where I was dropped off was different than the one where I had landed, and once again I was struck by how much this place reminded me of India, especially the airport.  As I waited for my flight, just looking at the aircraft outside made me realize that I would have to check-in my bigger bag.  Sure enough, they tagged it and that was good since the plane interior was quite small.  As we took off, watching O’hau from this vantage point was fantastic, especially now that I could see some of the mountains and the craters.  But noting could beat the blue of the Pacific as I left O’hau behind, heading towards my next adventure.

To Be Continued…

39. Hawaii – Part 1

Month: December 2017

Location: O’ahu & Big Island

Well, this was the big one.  Ever since I started on this journey Hawaii was always in my mind, especially with the time – and expense – commitment that it would require.  When I had classified the 51 destinations in different zones, both, Alaska and Hawaii has been designated as “Outer States”.  But, I had been to Alaska before and so it didn’t seem that intimidating.  While I could have spent more time there, I was able to have a good visit in just 3 days.  That would not be so easy with Hawaii, especially since it would take a day just to get there.  So I decided to do it over the week between Christmas and the New Years, since things are slow in the office.  Then came the decision on which island's to visit, and while Maui and Kaua’i are often described as the most beautiful, I wasn’t going there to lie down on a beach for a week.  So I picked O’ahu - because that’s where Honolulu was and I like cities - and Hawai’i or The Big Island, because there was something that I desperately wanted to do and this was the place to do it.  I wanted to see the ‘Milky Way’.

The Hawaiian Islands

On the Big Island is ‘Mauna Kea’, which is the tallest mountain on the planet if measured from the bottom of the ocean.  My buddy had told me about this tour which took you to the summit at twilight and once it was dark, they turned off all ambient light so that you could see the stars the way they were meant to be seen.  I have never been to a place which was dark enough to do this and this was my chance.  So when I booked all of my travel back in February, I also booked this.  I also booked a day trip to see ‘Pearl Harbor’, and then did some research on ‘Volcanoes National Park’, which was also on the Big Island.  I was going to fly into Honolulu, spend 3 nights there, and then take an inter-island flight to Hilo, which was on the East coast and closer to the National Park.  After spending a night there I would then drive around the island to Kona, on the West Coast and visit ‘Mauna Kea’ the next day.  Then I would return back to Honolulu for another night and take a “red-eye” back to Chicago on December 30^th.  Then I realized that I had no reason to be back for New Year’s and why shouldn’t I just extend my trip.

On my way back I was connecting through LA and since I had never been there, I thought that this would be a great opportunity to do so.  Well, I and the rest of the world I suppose since the hotel rates were through the roof.  The next option was to rent a car and drive down to San Diego and that wasn’t a bad thing since I could make a day trip of it.  So I booked a hotel in San Diego and then called the airlines to see if I could change.  They were happy to oblige as long as I mortgaged myself to pay the difference.  So I asked what would happen if I just left the flight in LA.  They said nothing, as long as I had no checked luggage and I wouldn’t even have to tell anyone.  They would wait for me till departure and then just leave.  That was fine by me, but it did present a challenge.  I would have to pack for 12 days encompassing 6 flights segments and 5 hotels, while figuring out how to do it with carry-on luggage. 

The month leading up to my departure I spent several evening planning for my time over there, including where I wanted to eat, the bars I wanted to go to and of course the places that I wanted to visit.  It was by far the most exhaustive preparation that I had done so far.  I even called all the tour places and the restaurants that I was planning to visit to confirm my reservations – especially since some of them had been done months in advance.  My trip to ‘Pearl Harbor’ had a 5:50 am pickup from a hotel that was a few blocks away from where I was staying.  So I checked and found that I could in fact cancel my reservation, switch to this pickup hotel and pay the same rate.  That would make it ideal to just come down and board a bus.  The night before I left, I laid out all of my clothes and other stuff that I wanted to carry and somehow managed to stuff it in a carry-on bag and a backpack.  It was good thing that the weather would be warm and more or less stable, meaning I wouldn’t have to carry too many sweaters.  However, some of the restaurants that I was planning to visit had a strict dress code and that took up a lot of room in the bag.  But, I was ready for what would be the longest domestic vacation that I have ever gone on.

Below that cloud cover is the blue Pacific

At 7 am I took a ‘Lyft’ – I had diversified my “ride share” options – to the airport and arrived well in advance of my departure time.  Fortunately, my carry-on bags made it past the person checking for the size limit and then it was just a lot of waiting till my boarding was called at 9:30 am.  The good thing about taking a day flight was that it would put me in Hawaii in the evening.  It was almost 5 hours to LA, but each seat had a TV screen and so I spent most of it watching a couple of movies.  The 2 hour layover was spent trying to get a really relaxed server to get me food at an airport bar, and then I arrived at my gate for the flight to Hawaii.  The number of people by the gate looked like I was boarding an international flight and for all practical purposes it could well have been one.  This was one of those aircraft's which had two aisles with 10 seats per row and a business class that made me envious.  I had a tight schedule this evening and so a 20 minute departure delay did make me a bit nervous.  But we took off and were immediately over the Pacific, which was as blue as described.  For the next 5 hours and half hours we would not see land and it’s incredible that something that appears so close on a map is deceivingly far.  Well, thank heavens for video entertainment and it was a few more movies for me.

It was 7 pm and dark when we landed in Honolulu and it took some time for me to get out.  I navigated through the long terminal towards the exit and at one stage walked over a bridge which was open, thus confirming that I was in a much warmer place than the one that I had left.  I got into a cab and as we drove into town, the thing that struck me the most was how much this place reminded me of Mumbai; especially the architecture. The lack of "chain restaurants" on the streets and other things made me feel that this was very much a foreign country.  The gentleman driving me was giving me pointers on things to do and about the island.  I was staying in the ‘Waikiki Beach’ area with the downtown being a few miles away, though according to him nothing happened there.  We arrived at ‘Ala Moana Hotel’ and it looked huge.  There was a lot of traffic near the hotel, primarily because it was next to the biggest malls in the city and it was after all the holiday season.

Dinner with a view

I checked in and the receptionist said that they were giving me a room in the quiet section away from the street noise.  Well, that room was also far from the elevator and a trek to get there.  I had been on the road for almost 17 hours and so gladly took a refreshing shower and then it was time to leave again.  I called an ‘Uber’ to go to a nearby resort called ‘Halekulani’ which housed the restaurant ‘La Mer’.  The evening was pleasant and this area was quite busy.  I arrived at the resort and then after a few wrong directions, found my destination.  This was a classic French restaurant and despite my apprehension over the last month that I would be late, I was in fact early for my reservation.  So I went over to the bar named ‘L ’Aperitif’ which had a classic bartender in white jacket.  I had to double check the price of the cocktails because these were some expensive drinks.  I ordered something called ‘Halekulani Cocktail’, which was accompanied by a small container of ‘Rockford Blueberry Syrup’.  While I am not sure if it justified the price, this was an excellent drink.  They came to get me for my table, which was overlooking a small balcony beyond which was the beach and the ocean. They even moved my table closer so that I had an excellent view. There couldn’t have been a more perfect start to my week here and I could have stayed there for a long time, just listening to the ocean at night.  Plus, the food was excellent, though the service was a bit overbearing at times.  But that is better than the other option I suppose.  After dinner I stood on the balcony for a while and then called a ride back.  It had been a long day and I was ready to turn in.

Early morning at 'Ala Moana Center'

While not the worse night, I had been dealing with a cough for the last couple of weeks and it did prove to be a nuisance.  But even with that and the fact that I was late by Central Time standards in going to bed, I was wide awake at 7 am.  Now that I was up so early, I rearranged some of my schedule based on when places opened and where they were located.  Yeah, I was well prepared for this one.  I got ready and found the bridge connecting my hotel to the mall, ‘Ala Moana Center’.  As advertised, this place was huge, being open-air with a central walkway and shops on either side spread over multiple levels.  In fact, not only was this the largest shopping mall in Hawaii, it was the 7^th largest in the US and the largest open-air shopping center in the US.  And it was also quite empty.  This wasn’t a surprise since it was just after 8 am in the morning.  I did locate a coffee stand called ‘Honolulu Coffee Company’ and got something called “Hawaiian Latte”.  I also spend some time – unsuccessfully - trying to locate the place where I was supposed to have dinner, since it was supposed to be this secret entrance at the basement level parking lot.  When they had called to confirm my reservation, they had said that if I couldn’t find them, I should wait outside a ‘Barnes & Nobel’ store and they would come get me.  Well, I guess that’s what I would need to do.

Now that's what I call Breakfast!

I returned back to my hotel at 9 am and called a ride to go get some food.  It was a place called ‘Koko Head Café’ which described itself as an “Island Style Brunch House”.  It was located away from the crowds in a simple building, though once inside it resembled a brunch café.  And a popular one at that since it was full.  I was lucky to get a table and looking at the menu I saw a lot of Asian inspiration.  I ordered a dish called “Chicky and Eggs”, which was, well, Chicken and Eggs over rice in a hot bowl… a very hot bowl.  As I looked at the menu, I realized that rice was staple over here and present in almost all dishes, even with eggs!  Now while I would typically not be found eating Chicken for breakfast at 9 in the morning, I was still adjusting to the time zone, at least that’s what I told myself.

'Bishop Museum'

I called a ride to go to ‘Bishop Museum’, which is actually the “Hawaii State Museum of Natural and Cultural History”.  They gave me a map at the ticket counter and I saw that there were several buildings around a central lawn and besides the main building housing the cultural exhibits; there was a “Planetarium”, a “Hawaii Sports Hall of Fame” and even a “Science Adventure Center”.  There was a guided tour of the main hall and since I had some time prior to that, I went to the building with the Science Center first.  One of the more fascinating things here was a tunnel which I suppose was depicting the flora and fauna of Hawaii as well as Native Culture. However, with its dark passages and fluorescent objects, it looked more like the interior of a “Tiki Bar”.  Besides this, there were some hands-on activities for kids and perhaps the most notable thing in this building was a giant "Volcano", which replicated flowing lava.  Kids and their parents were starting to assemble here and I left for the next building.

The grand "Pacific Hall" 

There was some sort of exhibit on animation in one building and I walked through that before making my way to the main building called “Hawaiian Hall Complex”, for the guided tour.  The tour started with the docent telling us about the history of the museum, which was founded in late 19^th century by a gentleman Charles Reed Bishop, in honor of his late wife, Royal Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop.  The museum houses Hawaiian objects, including those previously belonging to the royal family.  We walked through the halls looking at these artifacts as we learned about how the Hawaiian Islands were settled, which was through Polynesian natives voyaging across the vast Pacific Ocean in nothing more than basic seafaring vessels.  There were other rooms, including "Pacific Hall" which had galleries spanning 3 floors, and hanging from the ceiling was a giant model of a Whale.  There were several things to see in here and a lot of history and culture on display, but I just took a cursory glance and then moved on to other buildings.  The “Hawaii Sports Hall of Fame” was a room with photographs and stories on Hawaiian athletes, almost all of who were unknown to me.  The final place I visited was an exhibit called “NASA’s Earth Observing Mission”, which was an interactive exhibit showing how NASA uses satellites to gather data.  I walked through here and then back to the main building to request a ride to my next destination.

The 'Capitol'

I was going to ‘Hawaii State Art Museum’ and it was located in downtown.  The driver dropped me off and pointed to a building which looked like a mansion.  I soon realized that I was at the wrong location and this was in fact ‘Iolani Palace’, the only palace in the US.  I had a ticket for a tour next week and would be back. After asking for some directions, I found the museum I was seeking.  Although the name included “State Art Museum”, this wasn’t a very big place, with just two galleries, albeit interesting; and was free to the public.  After walking through them I asked the gentleman at the front desk how to get to my next place and he pointed out the directions enthusiastically.  It was about a mile away and I was going to walk over there.  He told me to check out the ‘State Capitol’ on the way, saying that it was across the street.  I had not seen any building with the traditional dome and so was surprised to hear that.  I soon realized that unlike the buildings in the other state capitals, ‘Capitol’ of Hawaii was a rectangular building with a central courtyard, and which looked more like a “Modern Art Gallery”.

'Honolulu Museum Of Art'

I walked to the ‘Honolulu Museum Of Art’, which was on the side of a busy road.  As I got my ticket, I learned that the museum had another location up the hill called ‘Spalding House’ and my ticket could get me into that place as well.  This location was quite expansive and reminded me of the ‘Heard Museum’ in Phoenix, in terms of its architecture and layout.  I walked through its many galleries and outdoor courtyards and even got some “Iced Mocha” to enjoy while sitting outside.  After I felt that I had gotten the most out of this place, I called an ‘Uber’ to go to the ‘Spalding House’.  The driver called and told me to go to the side street since this was a busy road and he wouldn’t be able to stop.  I did as asked and saw him take the corner a bit more aggressively than he would have preferred, thus causing the side of his car to scrape against the sidewalk.  He proceeded past me and pulled into a small area on the side to examine the damage and seemed a bit annoyed.  Fortunately, he didn’t take it out on me and we started our climb up to the house.

The garden's of  'Spalding House'

I was glad that I had not chosen to walk since it was quite a hike up the hill.  I was dropped off in front of what looked like, well, a house.  The lady inside saw the museum sticker on my shirt and waved me in.  Though the exterior was like a house, the interior was unmistakably like a museum.  There were a few galleries, including a library room, where I pulled out some books on photography and spent some time looking at them.  There were just a couple of visitors besides me and it was a quiet place.  Outside was a garden with some sculptures, on a manicured lawn overlooking a great view of the city.  There was also a path leading down through the bushes and I went down part of the way before turning back, realizing that this looked exactly like a never-ending pit which they tell you to avoid in the movies!  Speaking of creepy, there was another small cottage with an exhibit called “L’Enfant et les sortiléges” roughly translated as “The Child and the witchcraft”.  It was a dark room with florescent paintings of a garden and several objects resembling animals.  One in particular looked like a Panther about to pounce and I couldn’t get out of there fast enough.

"Monkey Pod Mai Tai"

As can be expected, it took over 10 minutes for my ride to get over here and by now I was tired.  I was going to this bar which was known for its cocktails, but there was some time before it opened.  So I popped into a place near it, called ‘Moku Kitchen’.  There was something on the menu named “Monkey Pod Mai Tai”, and I suppose it was called so because there was foam on top which tasted like a banana.  It was delicious and a nice start to the evening.  ‘Bevy’, the place I was going to, looked like a “speakeasy” with its dark entry and interiors.  Plus, the cocktail list was interesting and the bartenders seemed to know what they were doing.  I got a drink called “Mai Thai”, and that isn’t a typo.  It was an Asian play on the classic and the flavors were spot on.

The hidden entrance of 'Bar Leather Apron'

I have always tried to go to the top rated cocktail bar in each city that I have visited and the one over here was called ‘Bar Leather Apron’.  It was about a mile away in the heart of downtown and I decided to walk there.  It road took me along the waterfront, next to the pier with massive “cruise ships” and into what looked like the financial district.  The problem was locating the place, because there was no sign and there was nothing resembling a bar at the stated address.  I tried calling them, but reached a voicemail and now I was truly stuck.  I entered a high rise building and asked the security guard if he knew where the place was and to my surprise, he pointed upwards, saying I should go around the corner and up flight of stairs.  Now I found it and even though it had been just a few minutes past the opening, there were already several folks here.  I was directed to a table and ordered their signature drink, “E Ho’Opau Mai Tai” or “World’s Best Mai Tai”, apparently having won the award in 2015.  While it was quite good, I didn’t even think it was the best “Mai Tai” I have had this evening.  But, they made a production out of presenting it, with smoke and all the pretentiousness that the best bar in the city carries.  People were now coming in droves, including a group who said that they had come straight from the airport – my kind of people.  I called an ‘Uber’ back to my hotel, making sure I identified a landmark first, and arrived with plenty of time to spare before my dinner.

And the hidden entrance of 'Vintage Cave Club'

In my research, ‘Vintage Cave Club’, had been identified as the most exclusive place in the city; with President Obama and the First Lady having dined there.  Initially I had made a reservation for later in the evening, but with my early morning wake up call, I had moved it to 7 pm.  I walked over to the mall as before and descended down to the basement. Once again, I was unable to see the place and so called them.  I waited outside ‘Barnes & Nobel’ and very soon a lady appeared and guided me towards a narrow alley.  I entered though some doors and into an elevator that deposited me one floor up, meaning that they could have had their entrance in a much more respectable location. But where’s the fun in that?  The interior looked like a dungeon…and a museum.  There were paintings and display cases lined up against arched brick walls and the only thing missing was flaming torches.  I loved it.

The interior

The service was excellent, as can be expected of a top notch place, though we did not start off well.  I ordered an ‘Old Fashioned’ and when it appeared in a glass full of ice cubes, I asked the server to make it with just one big one…as this drink should be.  When he said that they did not have it, I said that I would change my order.  Now, this was me being a jerk, but I was also paying a fair sum for this experience.  While I would never do this is a normal bar, any place who claims to be known for their cocktails or a place like this which charges one an arm and a leg, should know better.  The dinner itself was outstanding and well worth the visit.  At the end I emerged into the same alley, climbed up the stairs, and through the mall towards my hotel.  I was back at a decent hour and if today had been a long day, tomorrow would be even longer.

To Be Continued…

38. West Virginia

Month: November 2017

Location: Charleston

Good Morning!

Like some of the other places that I have visited, I had heard about, and seen, West Virginia through the pop culture references of a song or a movie.  John Denver describes it as a beautiful and magical place, whereas most movies depict it as a dull and dreary mining country.  When I did my own research on Charleston, I couldn’t justify going there for more than a night.  So I booked travel for Saturday morning and returning back on Chicago on Sunday evening.  Well, then ‘American Airlines’ decided to make changes to my itinerary – because they could – and now they had booked me on a flight departing at 5:30 am and arriving back at midnight the next day.  I even considered looking for an inexpensive hotel room near the airport, but then just decided to give up on sleep.  So I set my alarm for 2:30 am and called an ‘Uber’ for pickup at 3:30 am.  The funny thing was that as we left downtown, I saw people who were still partying.  In any case, I was off on my adventure.

Thought we were headed to Charleston...

I was connecting through Charlotte and it was quite a trek to get to my gate.  When I got there, I realized that this was the terminal which hosted small planes and mine could have passed off as a private jet.  We had to go on the tarmac to get on the plane and the door also doubled as a ladder.  Yeah, it was small.  As I buckled in, I learned that so as not to be confused with its more popular cousin in South Carolina, this place was referred to as “Charlie West”.  It was supposed to be a very short flight and halfway through the trip we were told that our plane was being diverted to Roanoke owing to fog in Charleston.  Wait, what was going on?  The flight attendant didn’t seem surprised and mentioned that this wasn’t uncommon.  I learned that Charleston was in a valley, with the airport on a mountain-top.  Hence the constant issue with the fog.  When asked, the flight attendant said that there was no guarantee on how long it would take for us to get clearance to go there.  Great!  I had complained about spending too much time in Charleston and now I was worried that I may not have enough.  Funny how things turn out!

...But ended up in Roanoke

I wasn’t sure where Roanoke was and a quick check once we landed told me that it was in Virginia, and about 3 hour car ride away from Charleston.  One of the ladies on our flight was headed to a wedding or was supposed to be in one.  She was in full panic mode and making calls to check there were rental cars.  Apparently there was just one and since I didn’t see her after we got off, I assumed that she decided to chance it on the road.  Roanoke was a small airport and we seemed to have caught them by surprise.  They were very laidback and with only a few flights in a day, their businesses probably worked on a schedule.  Since I had no idea how long we would be here, I went into the only place that served food and got coffee.  My fellow passengers settled in to get some beers and the only lady serving in this place had her hands full.  Our pilots and flight attendant also came in for coffee, which didn’t do much for my confidence that we would be departing soon.  I was hanging out in the waiting area as a lady near me was talking on the phone to check if she could get back to Charlotte.  In my mind I was already preparing an alternate strategy for this month since Charleston may not work out.

Beautiful sight through the mist

After an hour of waiting, they told us to get ready to board, though I wasn’t certain if that was to go to Charleston or back to Charlotte.  The gentleman sitting adjacent to me said as much and only when we started approaching the airport and I saw the incredibly beautiful sight of trees with colored leaves, that I was convinced that we were at “Charlie West”.  There was a thin mist in the air and the airport was indeed on a mountain top.  We landed less than 2 hours behind schedule and had definitely arrived before the poor lady who had decided to drive from Roanoke.  I came out of terminal to look for cabs and there were none.  In fact, there was no sign directing me towards them.  So I asked an airport employee and he mentioned that I had to call the cab company from the public phone.  So I did and the lady mentioned that she would dispatch a cab to come get me. It soon arrived and we were off.

Fist stop was for lunch

The drive into town reminded me of New England, primarily because of the beautiful colors, which was amazing considering we were in November.  It was pleasant, with a slight chill in the air and I mentioned to the driver that this place was pretty.  He agreed and said that people like living over here, despite the impression of being a rural place.  Considering that I was running behind schedule, I decided to delay my check-in and since I have my priorities straight, asked the driver to head straight to my lunch place.  As far as my luggage was concerned, all I had was a backpack and it wasn’t much of a hassle to carry it.  I had picked a spot near my afternoon activity and I was dropped on a street with a few buildings, one of which was called ‘Bluegrass Kitchen’.  The inside had two rooms, the bar area and the main dining room.  I decided to sit at the bar and was the only person there.  The food was good and the service friendly.  This place is known for their cocktails and the lady mentioned that the bartender would be there for the evening shift and that I should stop by.

The curious layout of the museum

Nearby was the ‘State Capitol’ and since I have tried to visit those buildings in other States, I had to stop by.  It was a short walk through a park and over there was also the ‘West Virginia State Museum’, which I was planning to visit first.  I walked through a big hall and asked the security folks about the museum and they said that it was a self-guided tour on the lower level and gave me a map, complete with a walking path.  It looked like the tour took one through the history of the state at various times and also had side detours called ‘Discovery Rooms”, to see some artifacts.  They also had lockers and so after depositing my bag in one, I took the escalator downstairs.

On the  path

Before starting I noticed that there was an auditorium playing a short animated film and I stopped to see it.  It was a fun story about a gentleman named “John Henry’, a young man who was born strong and using his hammers, helped build a railroad.  The culmination of the tale was a competition between him and a rail laying machine, where he worked tirelessly to beat the mechanical beast, demonstrating spirit and perseverance.  The film was narrated by Denzel Washington with music by B.B King, and though it was geared towards a younger audience, I found myself getting engrossed in the story.  I came out and located the entrance to the walking path, and then had one of the best experiences at a museum.

It was a fantastic museum

The path started in pre-historic times on a dirt trail, with what looked like a forest, and took the visitor past several “zones” such as “River Plains”, “The Fort” and even “Company Town”; finally culminating in the present era on an asphalt floor.  Each area had been decorated accordingly and the one called “Coal Mine” even resembled a mine with dark passage, coal trolleys and railway line.  There were 26 unique areas labeled “A” to “Z” and there were 26 corresponding “Discovery Rooms” which collected exhibits that told the story of West Virginia and its colonization.  This was one of the best ways to showcase the State, and how it came to be the place that it is today.  I have been to several State Museums and this one was one of the best, if not the most impressive in the way it was laid out.  It educated the visitor while immersing them within the history of the State.  If I did nothing else over this trip, visiting this museum would have made it worthwhile.

A quick stop at the 'Capitol'

I collected my bag and went over to the ‘Capitol’ and it was as impressive as some of the other ones that I have visited, though it wasn’t as accessible.  It seemed quite busy for a Saturday and there was some security around.  So I walked around the central dome and then came out and called an ‘Uber’, trying to locate the right area for my pickup.  Fortunately the driver found me and so I finally made it to my hotel.  After checking in I was told that there would be a “Manager’s Reception” soon - whatever that meant - with some drinks and snacks.  Well, I wasn’t going to wait around for that and so after dropping off my bag in the room, I set off.

The main street, though you wouldn't know it!

I walked on what I suppose was the main street in downtown, since it was lined with restaurants and bars on either side.  While street was quite pretty, it was also completely deserted…and on a Saturday evening.  I reached the waterfront and went to a place called ‘Boulevard Tavern’.  It had been advertised as a place for cocktails, but looked more like a “Dive Bar” on the inside.  There were 2 other people there and one of them looked like he had been there for a while.  I asked the bartender if they could make cocktails and she responded “Yes”, seemingly offended that I had my doubts.  So I ordered an “Old Fashioned”, to which she replied that they can only do mixers like “Jack and Coke”.  Hey, if that’s what passes off for a cocktail over here, then so be it.  I had time to spare and so ordered something and plugged in my earbuds to focus on my phone.  The gentleman who looked like he had imbibed a few came over for a chat and I just ignored him, at which he left.  My biggest concern was if he would waiting outside and I kept looking over my shoulder as I left the place.

The evening had set in...though still no people

The streets were still empty and I arrived at my next spot called ‘Celsius’, just as they were scheduled to open.  The door was closed and so I waited and after a few minutes peeked inside.  I saw people in there and so I knocked, upon which someone came and let me in.  It was then that I realized that this place had another entrance from a parallel street, which was typically used. So while I had been waiting on the street, people had already gathered and gotten a head start on their evening.  Well, I blame “Google Maps”.  I saw that the menu did advertise cocktails and fortunately they meant it.  Plus the place was bright and pleasant, meaning a much better experience for me as compared to the earlier one.

The lounge in 'Sam's Uptown Cafe'

I stayed here for an hour and things had not changed when I left.  There still wasn’t anyone on the streets.  I walked over some “manhole covers” that advertised the name of the company I work for – this is one of our territories – and so I took a picture and sent it to my colleagues; perhaps the most exciting thing of the evening so far.  I went to a place called ‘Bar 101’, which was attached to a restaurant, though it had its own space.  There was only one other person there besides me, though the restaurant looked like it was doing well.  I got a cocktail and it wasn’t a bad place to hang out.  The night had set in when I left and my next stop was a place called ‘Sam’s Uptown Café’. While it advertised itself as any other bar, supposedly there was a lounge upstairs.  Well, the lounge was an area with some couches and exposed brick wall.  It looked more like a coffee shop and the only thing they served was beer.  While there were people downstairs, I was the only person in the “lounge” and after sitting on the couch for some time, I left.

At 'Vino's Bar and Grill'

There was a place that I wanted to visit before dinner, but it opened at 8 pm and I had some time to spare.  So I went to another place called ‘Big Joe’s Bar & Grill’ and finally, a place which had some people.  Well, it was your typical watering hole with beer and football and an interesting place to really observe the locals in their natural habitat.  Being a college football night, everyone was quite engrossed in the games and I sat around till 8 pm and then headed back towards the waterfront.  The place was called ‘Vino’s Bar and Grill’ and I guess they were hoping to go for a vibe like an exclusive bar, but weren’t that successful.  The drinks were mediocre and the clientele questionable, especially since one guy started bothering me as I was waiting for my ‘Uber’.  What’s up with these places in Charleston?  While not a total loss, this had been less than a stellar evening for sure.

The creative 'Bricks & Barrels'

While researching places to eat, a few good ones had come up, though most of them closed early.  There was one that looked unique and was called ‘Bricks & Barrels’; and it was a bit away from this part of the town.  On the way there my driver told me that it wouldn’t have been a good idea to be in that neighborhood alone or without a ride.  As I entered the restaurant, I saw that the place had walls lined with bricks and there were barrels everywhere; hence the name.  There were areas that looked like they were inside a barrel as well as Whiskey barrels that passed off as tables.  I was assigned one such table and I liked the place.

My table

It was quite busy, more than any other place that I had been to this evening.  I ordered a soup for starters and promptly returned it back.  I typically do not do such things, but this passed off for nothing more than hot colored water.  As I did that, a middle-aged couple on the next table started a conversation with me and as with most places that I have visited, it ended with us talking about my travels and exchanging numbers.  The lady mentioned that her son would be at this pub tomorrow for brunch and that I should look him up as he and his friends would love to meet me.  Well, I was planning to go there, but much earlier in the day.  The rest of the meal was actually good, including a giant piece of “Tiramisu” that they served me.  It wasn’t a bad end and I headed to the hotel after what had been a very long day.

Not much happening on Sunday either

The next morning was overcast and it did feel like a "Fall day". I made my way down the empty main street – which did look pretty in this setting – to a place called ‘Taylor Books’.  It was your neighborhood book store with a café, which was what I was most interested in.  They had something called “Tuxedo Mocha” on the menu, which I ordered and found to be a regular “Mocha”.  I guess they expected people to be wearing tuxedos while drinking it, else it was good marketing - hey, it fooled me!  I sat there watching some other folks who were strolling in on this Sunday morning.  The book store wasn’t that big, but was attached to a small art gallery.  I walked through both for a bit and then went to get some brunch.

The kids area at the science museum

Right next door was a place called ‘Adelphia Sports Bar & Grille’ and they were probably the main destination for people looking to watch football.  There were a few folks over by the bar, but like most other places in this town, was quite empty.  I left before the start of any games, and walked a few blocks over to ‘Clay Center for the Arts and Sciences of West Virginia’, just as they were opening for the day.  As I purchased the ticket, I learned that there were 2 floors, with the one above being an art gallery and the one below being a play area for kids.  Well, the floor we were on was an “Omnimax”, which would be showing some science related film soon and since there wasn’t much here, I got a ticket for that.  There were 15 minutes to spare and so I went to the lower level and saw a couple of kids running around.  The museum had actually done a good job of creating different areas, which were models of shops and other buildings that you may find in a town, such as “Grocery Store”, “Garage”, “Restaurant”, “Medical Center” etc.  The models were realistic, for example, having aisles and demo food products in the “Grocery Store”, thus making it a fun experience for kids.  What did not look fun was a 3 story structure that was like a tree house with net and which the kids could climb, starting here and all the way up to the top floor.  Not something I would have done, but there were some kids attempting that.

A private show

I went over to the theater just before my show and there was no one there.  At the time that we were supposed to start, a gentleman came running, saying that he hadn’t realized that someone had gotten a ticket.  Yes, I was the only person for that show and the theater itself was quite big.  I almost felt embarrassed making him work the show – he was also the projectionist – for me, but I guess 1 ticket sold is better than none.  The film itself was kid friendly, though there were some interesting bits and being in “Omnimax” was always going to make anything seem special.  Plus, how often does one get a private show?  And I didn’t even have to book the entire theater!

Inside 'Capitol Market'

After the show I went to the top floor which was an art gallery of sorts and they had some interesting pieces, but it did not take me long to walk through it.  By the time I left the museum, people had slowly started coming in and so my decision to come early had been good.  Not too far from here was a place called ‘Capitol Market’, which was essentially an indoor market for various local vendors.  I walked over there and the inside was not unlike other places that I have seen elsewhere.  It was winding down for the day and after a round, I called for an ‘Uber’.  Since the market had two entrances on parallel streets, finding each other was an adventure.  This caused me to run between the two doors, trying to locate the car, and I was being watched with some confusion by the folks in there.  But I eventually found my ride and we were off.

The beautiful 'Sunrise Carriage Trail'

Just across the river and next to the train station, was a hill on top of which were some expensive houses.  Running on the side of the hill was a trail called ‘The Sunrise Carriage Trail’, which was less than a mile, but by all accounts was a beautiful walk through the trees.  Constructed in the early 1900’s for carriages – hence the name – going up to the mansions, it was now a protected area for public to enjoy.  I got dropped off at the base of the trail and started walking up.  It wasn’t a steep climb and it was quite pretty, especially with some of the colors around me.  In fact, I saw several folks posing for pictures and some even looked like they were working with professionals.  At several places along the winding path one could stop and look at the downtown across the river.  It didn’t take me too long to reach the top where “Private Property” signs greeted me and so I turned around and went back down.  It was a good way to spend some time and a pleasant hike.

A walk before my flight

I still had plenty of time left before my flight and so walked across the bridge and through a riverfront park - well, as much as you can call a lawn park.  Then I did what I typically do when at a loss for ideas on how to spend time; go to the mall.  Barring a few exceptions, once inside a mall, it is easy to forget which city you are in.  For the last couple of days I had been wondering where all of the people were and now I knew.  Everyone was at the mall.  I did a walk-through, stopping at a book store for a bit.  Right next door was ‘Marriott Hotel’ and they were supposedly known for their cocktail bar, ‘Brick Salt Bar + Kitchen’.  It wasn’t much to look at, but the bartender did make a decent drink.  I returned back to my hotel and it was still too early to head for the airport. So I stopped at the hotel restaurant called ‘The Athletic Club’ to watch some football over a beer and there were several folks doing that.  I left just as “Manager’s Reception” was commencing, and which looked like some munchies arranged as a buffet.  Well, now I knew. 

Farewell to Charleston

I took an ‘Uber’ back to the airport and sat around waiting for my flight.  Fortunately there wasn’t any problem with either this or my connecting flight in Charlotte, other than me arriving back home, way after midnight.  This had been an interesting trip.  I had been concerned that there wouldn’t be much to do in Charleston, even for one day.  For most parts that was true, but by no means had this been a boring visit.  There is much to like about this place, and though there hadn’t been many people on the street, the ones I had met were fantastic.  Plus, I had seen - in my opinion - one of the great Museums outlining a State’s history.  But one thing this trip confirmed was that West Virginia was indeed the beautiful land that I had first heard John Denver describe all those years ago.