34. Idaho

Month: July 2017

Location: Boise

When people think of Idaho, they associate it with potatoes.  I always thought of it in the same vein as Washington or Oregon, a classic Northwestern State with mountains and mild weather.  In terms of picking a place, I did not know much beyond Boise, so that’s where I was going.  I arrived in Boise on a Friday afternoon and soon realized that Idaho is a long State – lengthwise – and Boise is towards the lower part of the State.  This means that it is closer to Nevada than the Pacific Northwest, and thus hot like a desert.  But it did look clean, and with mountains in the distance, definitely a city that I could end up liking.

My roomie

My hotel said that they had a free shuttle service from the airport though I couldn’t see a van with my hotels name on it.  So I sat at the bench and called them, only to hear that it should already be there.  Fortunately, a gentleman came and asked if I was waiting for a ride and only then I saw that the van was serving more than one establishment.  I arrived at ‘Hotel 43’ and at check-in asked why it was named so.  They said that Idaho was on the 43^rd parallel, the 43^rd State in the Union and the hotel was built during the 43^rd Presidency.  Well, that seemed like a good enough reason, though the last one was stretching it a bit.  As I entered my room I noticed that I wasn’t the sole occupant.  Sitting on a chair was a Teddy Bear wearing the Hotel bathrobe, with a note that I could purchase him from the gift shop if I wanted to.  Never in my travels have I been welcomed with a plush toy.  There’s a first time for everything and I for one wasn’t complaining.

On my way

There were a couple of places that I wanted to visit in the afternoon and so I set off immediately.  Like many of the other cities that I have visited recently, the downtown looked spotless.  I passed through what looked like a shopping area, with a central fountain that sprayed water from the floor and kids running through it trying to catch the jet; all while their parents drank beer nearby.  I was going to a place called ‘The Basque Museum & Cultural Center’ in what was called the “Basque District”.  I had no idea what that meant or referred to, just that this place had shown up in the list of museums in the city.  I had absolutely no idea on what to expect from this place.

I had no knowledge of this culture

As I turned on the street where the museum was located, I did find it to be different than the others and from what I have seen in the pictures, very “European”.  I entered the museum along with an elderly couple at 3:50 pm and was told that they were closing in 10 minutes.  However, the gentleman at the counter was extremely friendly and said that we could do a quick tour if we rushed.  He joined us as a tour guide and it was then that I learnt that Basque is a region shared between France and Spain and which has its own unique culture and customs.  Being denied their own independent country, many natives have gone abroad looking for a better life, Boise being one of the largest settlements.  I asked the question which needed to be asked, “Why Boise of all places”.  Well, it seems that Basque folks are primarily “Sheep Farmers” and this region was ideally suited for that, whatever that means!

Starting my culinary adventure in Boise 

There wasn’t much time, so I rushed through the couple of galleries containing history of Basque people in America and a display with some of their local art and items that one may find in their household.  Before leaving I asked if there were any restaurants with Basque cuisine and of course there were a few on the block, including one across the street.  It was called ‘Basque Market’ and besides being a restaurant, it doubled as a grocery store of sorts for some Basque products.  I walked through it and found a delicious looking thing called “Chocolate Cream Pudding” in their refrigerator.  The proprietor endorsed it wholeheartedly and so I grabbed a table outside and gobbled it down.  This would have to do in terms of food till dinner time which was hours away.

'State Capitol'

As with any other State Capital, I wanted to visit the ‘Capitol’.  It’s not difficult to spot that building in any city owing to the dome and this one was just a couple of blocks away.  One of the reasons that I like visiting the ‘Capitol’ buildings is because they are usually located within a park and everything around it appears to be quite, no matter how bustling the city.  As I entered the building, I wasn’t expecting anything as pretty as the one in Utah, but this one wasn’t shabby; not at all.  It was majestic, with a central foyer around which spiral staircases went upwards and down.  I went upstairs and was able to visit the “House” and “Senate” rooms which looked fantastic.  Being vacant at this time, I was able to walk through the floor and the chairs in the balconies.  I always appreciate when places such as these are so easily accessible to public and for them to see where their elected officials gather to make decisions on their behalf.

The beautiful interior

The building had multiple levels, including two long wings that extended on either side.  I could see sunlight coming in through the roof, but I did not recollect seeing these wings on the outside.  That’s when I realized that these corridors were actually below ground with a garden on top of it.  And to think that this is a Government building!  There certainly was a lot to explore, including an exhibit on the history of Nuclear Waste dump in Idaho and some conflict that arose because of that.  I walked through the building and it took longer than I thought, which is always a good thing.  Now it was time to see how Boise measured up in the evening.

My first stop at 'The Mode Lounge'

I had identified a few places that I wanted to visit and they were quite close to each other.  As I approached the first location I could see why, since this appeared to be the epicenter of all things social in downtown Boise.  The people had assembled and were on the patio of the numerous bars and restaurants lined up along the street.  I stopped at a place called ‘Red Feather Lounge’ and saw that it was full, with no place to sit at the bar.  So I went to a place across the street called ‘The Mode Lounge’ which had absolutely no one.  I chatted with the bartender and she told me about a drink on their menu which is limited to 1 per person; always interesting when that’s stated on the menu.  I did not get that, though my cocktail was interesting in its flavor profile.  I did like this place though, especially its creative light fixtures that looked like the tops of wine glasses.

The drink was better than what was playing

I went back to the ‘Red Feather Lounge’ and learnt that I had been in the wrong place earlier.  This one had ample space and looked more like a cocktail bar than the boisterous one next door.  I stayed there for a while and then went to another place just around the corner called ‘Press & Pony’.  Now, this had all the makings of a “Speakeasy” with a dark curtain for an entrance and an interior that looked like an apothecary.  Plus the bartender was wearing a waistcoat and a mustache that “Hercule Poirot” would have approved.  There was also a group of young ladies who looked like they were part of a bridal party and so all bets were off.  I ordered a drink which tasted like something filtered through an ashtray and so for the first time in a long time, I returned it back.  Typically I would not do it, but if this place prided itself in making cocktails then why not.  I told him that I didn’t want him to remake it, but rather fix it.  He made it a bit better, but definitely not something that I would be ordering again.

Behind those curtains are Waffles and Fries!

Before leaving I asked him directions to the bathroom and he directed me towards another dark curtain, which took me to a whole new establishment - in fact 2 of them, “Boise Fry Company” and “Waffle Me Up”.  Since Boise is known for potatoes, it made sense that someone decided to open a restaurant dedicated to fries.  That’s what “Boise Fry Company” was, a restaurant whose menu consisted of different types of fries.  And that wasn’t the only thing.  It had a wall with taps of different types of ketchup and sauces.  You could get as many as you wanted to go with your fries.  The tag line of this place was “Fries with a side of Burgers”.  Now, whoever thought of putting this in a location so that every drunk from the bar who heads to the bathroom sees the ultimate junk food, deserves an award for entrepreneurship.  Plus, let’s not forget the waffle place which provided both, sweet and savory waffles.  Man, I could just spend an evening behind these walls and get everything.  But I had dinner plans and other places to visit.

I was staring at it for 10 minutes

There was time for one more stop before dinner and I saw that there was a place nearby called ‘Whiskey Bar’, magical words together!  So I went there and saw that while the place was big and a decent one to pass off as a salon, it was quite empty.  I got a cocktail there and then it was time to head back.  I did see another lounge next to it which looked interesting and worth exploring tomorrow.  I was having dinner at a restaurant called ‘Chandler’s’, which called itself “The home of the 10 Minute Martini™” – yes, they trademarked it.  Well, it was also in my hotel so if the martinis were indeed as advertised, I wouldn’t have to travel far afterwards.  I arrived early and sat at the bar and despite urging from a young woman who came over from her table and told me to order the “Bartender special”, I went with what they were most known for.  The reason why it’s called a “10 Minute Martini™” is because the bartender makes it and then puts it on ice for exactly 10 minutes while you look at it.  It certainly was chilled to perfection and perhaps something “007” could add to his order.  The dinner was very good, as was the ambiance with the live jazz.  I could have hung around for another nightcap but they were closing and so I headed upstairs to my Teddy Bear, satisfied with the way this day had gone.

Saturday Markets are the best

I left my hotel the next morning with an intention to go to a coffee shop and hang out till my first activity of the day.  But I saw that there was a street market in progress next to my hotel and so decided to walk through.  It is always interesting to see the local farmers and produce, but what I truly like at a street market is the various food stalls…let’s face it, everyone does.  There were certainly many options here, and the one I passed by twice before coming back to it was the mobile version of the restaurant that I had seen yesterday, ‘Waffle Me Up’.  Their savory waffle looked interesting and despite there being no proper tables to sit, I ordered one.  There was a dodgy looking bench which was in blazing sunshine and so I sat there and wolfed down my waffle – which was quite good.

Starting point of our tour

I walked up to a place called ‘District Coffee House’, which was your typical local coffee shop with locals comfortably entrenched.  The décor was eclectic and I stayed for a drink before going to “Basque District” for a “Historic Downtown Walking Tour” – not sure if “Historic” referred to the downtown or the tour!  I arrived outside the museum that I had visited yesterday and saw that a group had assembled around a lady who was going to be our tour guide.  It was a decent sized group and the lady encouraged us to stay hydrated since it was a hot day.  We started inside a courtyard of a house which was one of the examples of the housing that Basque immigrants lived in upon their arrival in Boise.  It was simple on the outside and though we couldn’t go inside, were told that it was comfortable.  Well, people were crammed in these housings though and life wasn’t all easy, as this community struggled to establish themselves in a foreign land.  However, they had their art and culture to sustain them and that was evident everywhere…I mean, even the sidewalks had poetry and music engrossed within tiles.

Looked like racquetball to me

We did go inside a building where the “games” were in progress and peeking through the window, we saw kids playing what looked like racquetball on a court.  It seems that this game is the most popular form of recreation for kids who hone their skills to compete in tournaments such as the one that was in progress.  We left the building and continued our trek into other areas of the city including some famous buildings such as the oldest standing structure and a “Fondue” restaurant which used to be a Firehouse and which still has a fireman’s pole running through the main hall.  The irony of having a fondue place in an old firehouse wasn’t lost on us.

The "stinky" alley of art

We had a nice set of visitors on the tour, including a gentleman who mentioned that he had lived in India for a period of time and spoke immaculate “Hindi” with me.  We walked past the government buildings as well as the ‘Capitol’ that I had visited yesterday and all the time our guide was feeding us tidbits of information about the city as well as encouraging us to visit the mountains a few miles away.  We had entered the main restaurant row where I had spent my evening and there was a street market in progress, along with other summer patio activities.  Our guide took us through something known as ‘Freak Alley Gallery’, which is an alley where artists come to express themselves via murals and paintings on the back walls of the businesses.  It reminded me of the “Gum Wall” in Seattle, though much less disgusting to look at.  While the art was extraordinary, this was still an alley between restaurants, meaning we were passing by a lot of dumpsters which were stinking up the place.  If only that particular aspect could be figured out, this would be a fantastic destination.

Basque restaurant

We were running overtime and since I had a packed schedule for the afternoon, I bid the guide and our group a farewell and left the tour.  Our guide had recommended a Basque restaurant named ‘Bar Gernika’ for lunch and even told me what to order.  It looked like a “Dive Bar”, but had a friendly person behind the bar, which wasn’t surprising since these people are known for their hospitality.  I ordered as instructed by our guide, which included “croquettas”, a must in every Basque meal.  This wasn’t on my list for lunch today, but it would have been a shame to pass up on trying a new cuisine.  I was glad to have come and after a brief halt, called an ‘Uber’ for my next stop.

The "Goddess Fest"

‘Boise Art Museum’ is located in a park and I could see some activity going on outside.  As I got my ticket for the museum I was told that photography was prohibited, with or without flash.  I really do not understand why the museums would enforce this policy, but I wasn’t going to argue.  The museum itself is not too big, but has a decent collection.  It did not take me that long to walk through it and upon coming out, I decided to check out the festivities in the park, which was called “Goddess Fest”.  It looked like a free spirited gathering which besides the tents of arts and crafts, included activities such as “Psychic Reading”. I even saw something to do with aura’s and souls!  But there was something peaceful about the place – including the folk music that was being performed.  No matter what your beliefs, perhaps the world does need these harmonious gatherings to spread joy and “every good thing” – their words.

The entrance to 'The Old Idaho Penitentiary'

This was in stark contrast to the next place I was visiting, something I never thought that I would do in a town such as this – ‘The Old Idaho Penitentiary’.  Opened in 1872, for over 100 years this was where the State sent its most hardened criminals.  Since its closure it has become a destination for tourists and came up as a recommended stop while in Boise.  Obviously it was on the outskirts of the town and the afternoon had gotten hot when I arrived there.  From the outside it looked like a crumbling fort and as I walked in through the gates into the courtyard, I saw that several buildings were in ruins.  I was given a map of the premises and besides the buildings housing the prisoners, there were other locations like the “galley”, “solitary confinement”, “maximum security block” and the “gallows”; which I was told was a popular spot.  Also popular today was the only air conditioned building on the site, which was hosting an exhibit on firearms.

Most of it was in ruins

I started by walking through the ruins before moving into some of the buildings, including one which had an exhibit on tattoos.  I guess this was where the prisoners came to get their art work done.  At the very back was “solitary confinement” and these were small rooms with barely enough space to even stretch out on the floor.  And speaking of floors, there wasn’t much there either.  I am sure the passage of time had eroded the tiles, but I suspect it wasn’t a very comfortable spot.  I ended up in the air conditioned building and saw that there really were a lot of firearms.  I am far from a gun enthusiast, but for those people, this place is a shrine.  If I had seen this exhibit elsewhere, say in a museum, I may have been impressed.  But over here, it just made me uneasy.

The creepy cell block

There had been a growing dread within me and entering the cell blocks did nothing to alleviate that.  Seeing those small cells over multiple levels was a bit disturbing, especially since outside each cell was a photograph of one of its inmates along with their crime and punishments.  Some of those inmates had been kids with their whole life thrown away because of one mistake, most likely due to poverty.  There were open cells where one could go in to “experience” the conditions, but there was no way I was going to do that.  The “maximum security” block was darker than the others and when I realized that I was the only person inside that building, I couldn’t leave fast enough.  But nothing filled me with more anxiety that the visit to the “gallows”.  On the wall were pictures of all of the men executed in that building along with their stories.  There was a “viewing room” for the family of the victims and the room where the actual hanging took place.  The exit to this building was down a flight of stairs and before exiting you saw the room where the trapdoor opened and the hanged man was lowered.  To know that barely a few feet away from where I stood a number of men had died, wasn’t something that I want to experience again.

Once is enough at this place

I was ready to leave this place, but I stopped over at the “women’s block” and similar to one housing the men, this also had photographs and stories of the women who had been there, couple of who once climbed over the tall prison wall by stacking chairs! There was also a sign encouraging prior "residents" to come forward with their story, their anonymity being respected. I bought myself a bottle of water from the “gift shop” and gulped it down, waiting for my ‘Uber’.  Never in all of my travels had I been so glad to get away from a place and as we drove away, it felt like a weight being lifted from my shoulders.  I do not believe in the paranormal or the spirits.  But there was something haunting about this place and when my driver mentioned that they do “Halloween” tours at night, I thought of no better place than this, even more than a made up “haunted house”. 

Now that's one way to relax

More than ever I was ready for a drink and I was dropped off in the downtown at a place called ‘Reef’.  This is a good old fashioned “Tiki Bar” and as such has a very relaxed ambiance, which was perfect.  There were some unique cocktails and after a couple, I felt better and proceeded to the place I had seen yesterday evening, called ‘Amsterdam Lounge’.  Well, the name sounds cool, but I was the only person in there and so unlike the earlier place the vibe was low.  Next, I stopped at the ‘Bar in Grove Hotel’ which was exactly what the names stated, a bar in a hotel lobby.  But the cocktail wasn’t that bad, though once again, it wasn't exactly a boisterous place.  In my search for good cocktail places, one of the names that had come up was ‘Capitol Bar’.  It was away from downtown, near the place I was going for dinner.  It had a “neighborhood bar” feel, with everyone knowing each other and though it was unlike the “speakeasy” bars that I prefer, I liked it.

Back room of 'State & Lemp'

I was going to a place called ‘State & Lemp’, which offered a multi-course tasting menu with wine pairings. Although it is a restaurant, it operated more as a “dining club”, with family style seating.  I arrived just as the first batch of diners was finishing and so was directed to the back room and handed a glass of wine as I waited.  Soon my fellow diners joined me in there as the noise level increased in that tiny room, till we were all directed to our table.  I was sharing mine with a couple and a gentleman who was from England and had a remarkable life story, which he told us over the next few courses and glasses of wine.  He had been fortunate in his career to retire young and then spent his life climbing mountains all over the work, including‘Everest’ which he claimed to have climbed 3 times.  Once would have been enough in my opinion, but what do I know.  He was now driving cross-country in an “RV” – which was in the restaurant parking lot – en route to Seattle to see his daughter.  It was a fun evening chatting with him and the couple and a very satisfying end to the day.

Start of the "Brunch Tour"

Next morning was my final one and after checking out of my room, I left my luggage at the front desk and walked over to a restaurant called ‘Saint Lawrence Gridiron’, the first stop of a “Walking Brunch Tour”.  For this first stop we would be sitting outside and our guide had arranged for a table for a dozen or so people.  I saw that one of the ladies was also on my walking tour yesterday and I learnt that she was visiting from Phoenix to write a travel piece for a magazine.  Others included a local couple who had a bunch of their friends visiting from other places, and it looked like a fun group.  We started with a brunch dish with a paired cocktail – yeah, it was that kind of a tour – and our guide said that the chef had come in on his day off just for this.  It was a good dish and we left after thanking him.

Inside 'Juniper'

Our guide was providing some insight about the food scene in Boise and we walked over to the place I had discovered by accident on my first evening, ‘Waffle Me Up’. We had the same waffle that I had tasted from their truck at the farmer’s market yesterday.  I did not mind that a bit and it also allowed me to try some of the sauces on offer by the ‘Boise Fry Company’.  The next stop was at another popular brunch spot called ‘Goldy’s Corner’, where we assembled in their bakery section.  I almost sank into my soft couch as we had a tasting of the “Breakfast Burrito” and another cocktail.  Our final food stop was at a restaurant called ‘Juniper’, another popular destination for food in Boise.  We had some unique “Pesto Scrambled Eggs”, along with an outstanding cocktail, which was a nice finish to this part of the tour. However, there was still a dessert stop.

Well, if they say so!

Prior to that our guide took us through the same artist’s alley that I had been through yesterday and people on this tour were fascinated by it all and were spending a lot of time in taking pictures and asking questions.  This was making me nervous since I had to go to my hotel to collect my bag and meet my scheduled ride to the airport.  While I could have just left, I did not want to miss out on the final treat, which was a Milkshake. Our guide had said that it would be one of the best ones that I would have had.  So, when we arrived at the stop called ‘Moon Café’, I asked the server to make mine “To Go” and as soon as I had it in hand, bid farewell to my fellow members and left.  The drink was indeed good and I had finished most of it before crossing a block. 

I arrived at the hotel and I need not have worried, since my ride was late.  At the airport it was fairly easy to get to my gate, though I would have a connection in Denver this time.  Boise had surprised me on many levels.  Firstly, it was nothing like the cities of the Pacific Northwest, especially with it's hot weather.  But more than that, it was a vibrant place, with food, drink and culture to rival any other major US city.  This would not be on top of any tourist’s destination – well unless you are from Basque region – but it should be.  I had just as much fun here as I would anywhere else, despite the visit to the penitentiary.  The surprises never end and I was glad to have found another place which I wouldn’t have, if not for this journey.  Idaho is definitely much more than potatoes and I look forward to visiting the Northern mountains next time.

33. Alaska - Part 2

Month: June 2017

Location: Anchorage

The mosquito infested trail

It was overcast in the morning as I walked towards the waterfront which had a walking and biking path along the ‘Tony Knowles Coastal Trail’.  When I say waterfront, it’s not like the beautiful riverfront of Pittsburgh or Chicago, but an underdeveloped property with lot of vegetation.  That means it was a mosquito infested area and I soon realized that being on a bike was a much better proposition than walking.  However, the trail is parallel to the train line and the trains passing by were indeed a spectacle.  There are few better modes of transportation than the trains in Alaska and years ago I had been fortunate to have had the opportunity to travel on one.  While most of the world has moved away from the golden age of railroad travel, Alaska still holds on to that proud tradition.

The place to be for brunch in Anchorage

The trail went on for miles, but I had other places to get to and so I returned back to the starting point and went for brunch to one of the more popular destinations called ‘Snow City Café’.  The place was full and with a long wait.  Fortunately for me I had reservations and while I waited for my table it was interesting to hear conversations of my fellow patrons, who had arrived as students from other places in the nation and had never left.  I could see why since this is a gorgeous place, though the winter months may persuade me otherwise.  After brunch I walked back to my hotel and called for my car.  It was time.

The beautiful 'Seward Highway'

With my trusted phone navigation, I drove outside the city and got on the ‘Seward Highway’ that takes one to the fantastic ‘Kenia Fjords National Park’, which I had visited last time.  As one gets outside the city, the highway runs right next to the ‘Turnagain Arm’ of the ‘Cook Inlet’ and during the times of high tide, the water is but a few meters away from the road.  Beyond that are the magnificent mountains and as the road twists and turns, it is one of the most beautiful drives anywhere in the world.  I still remember how spellbound I had been when seeing it for the first time.  I had noticed then that between the road and the water was a train line and if there ever was a reason to take the train, this was it.  My buddy I were to drive the next day to Seward and I had persuaded him to let me take the train a part of the way.  So early next morning he had dropped me off at the train station in Anchorage.  The idea was for me to take the train part of the way to a station called ‘Girdwood’, where he would pick me up.  The interior of the carriage had been quite a sight, and was nothing like one expects in a train.  It had rained all the way there and there wasn’t much I could see outside.  But whatever I had seen, had been enough.

A tale of 2 pictrues

As I approached my exit, I looked out and spotted a small road going towards the ‘Girdwood Station’.  Back when I had arrived by the train, I was surprised to see that the station was nothing more than a shack.  And I had no phone service.  Clearly I hadn’t thought this through.  Fortunately a gentleman had seen my predicament and given me a ride to a nearby gas station area which had a few shops.  One of those had been a place called ‘Alpine Bakery’.  I had a “Cake Doughnut” and Latte while waiting for my buddy and had even taken a picture of those.  I pulled into that gas station and found the bakery and ordered the exact same things as last time.  I took another picture and put them side by side to show to the barista.  I am a sucker for revisiting memories and this was a good one.  With the backdrop of the mountains, how could it not be?

Going up the trolley

About 3 miles away was ‘Alyeska Resort’, a high-end hotel, from where you could take a trolley up into the mountains.  Years ago when I had first come here, I had been mesmerized right from the moment I had stepped on board that trolley and all through my time on the mountain.  It had been the single most unique experience of my life and the most beautiful sight that I had ever seen in nature.  I parked my car and walked up the path towards the resort, which looked like it was preparing for a wedding.  I got a ticket for the trolley – which I felt was a bit expensive – and then rode it up to the peak.  It was amazing to see the resort get smaller, though it wasn't just that.  All around me, some of the more spectacular vistas were emerging.  On one side were glacier capped mountains and on the other side was a view of the ‘Cook Inlet’.  Adventurous people can also reach the top via a trail and I saw a few hikers on a narrow path.  The trolley was full of people as well as a cart of food products for the exclusive fine dining restaurant on the top.  Well, if we were to be stranded up there, at least we wouldn’t go hungry!

At the top of 'Mount Alyeska'

As we emerged on the top, the ground at certain places was covered by snow.  Plus it was uneven in places, which combined with the high altitude and the cliff edges gave one a sense of vertigo.  But there was no denying the fact that such views are just not seen every day…well unless you are working at the restaurant I suppose.  I walked around a bit, being tentative around the edge, though there were a few brave souls who were tempting fate in exchange for a good picture opportunity.  The wedding party was here as well and some of them were also carrying bottles of beer, which would not be the wisest strategy next to a cliff.  One of my favorite things about this place had been a gift shop with an outdoor 360 degree balcony that gave the visitor the best views of the valley.  Back when I had come here, I had chatted with the shopkeeper and had even purchased a “Goodnight Alaska” children’s book.  I found that they still had the book, but the shopkeeper was gone.

The breathtaking view

I could have stayed here forever, and I did walk around the balcony several times, before deciding it was time to go back down.  With a final look around me, I entered the outgoing trolley and began my journey back.  This is a place which is truly mesmerizing, one which you may not think about for years.  But then one night you dream about it and all the memories come back.  Visiting Alaska is not the easiest thing to do, especially with the long travel.  So it is unlikely that I will pick Anchorage again for my next trip here.  But I do have a feeling that an indescribable longing for this place will bring me back someday.  I know I will return.

On the shore of 'Portage Lake'

People have a fascination with glaciers, which can only be understood once you have seen one.  A few miles away was ‘Portage Lake’, where resided ‘Portage Glacier’.  I drove to the lake and by the time I arrived at the “Visitor’s Center” it had turned into a gorgeous afternoon with clear skies complimenting the crystal blue lake.  I learnt that there were several options open for me, including a couple of hikes or I could take a 1 hour cruise to see the main glacier.  I decided to do the cruise and was told that I could get my ticket on board the ferry. Since there was some time to spare, I decided to do one of the shorter hikes which led to a viewing area for another of the glaciers.  However, after a while I realized that there wasn’t enough time to go to that viewing area and be back on time to catch the ferry. So I abandoned the trail and rushed back and drove to the pickup point.

Approaching the glacier

The ferry was docked and at 4:30 pm they let us on board.  We were all assembled on the top deck and it was very pleasant as we set off.  There was a lady providing commentary and pointing out some of the sights.  The thing I found fascinating was how one loses a sense of scale in Alaska and things which appear closer and smaller are actually further away and a lot larger.  This was evident from a beach, which looked like it was only accessible by a canoe.  There were people over there that looked like ants when seen against the backdrop of the mountains.  I also saw a few dogs there, though I have no idea how they made it there in a canoe!

Beats having to fight someone
for a spot on the plank!

As we got closer to the glacier, it started looking more imposing and the blue color that every glacier reflects could now been seen clearly.  Plus there were icebergs in the water and while there was no chance of us going down as ‘Titanic’, I could still hear them knocking against the side!  The crew was volunteering to take pictures and so I posed against the glacier while wearing a flotation ring!  Glaciers are a marvel of nature and the fact that they are disappearing is both alarming and sad.  In fact, this one has receded quite a bit over the last few decades and there were pictures on board showing that.  We were on the way back and no one had come to collect my money for the ticket.  So I went downstairs and asked a crew member who was surprised that I did not already have a ticket, complaining about their lax policies.  I agreed with him since I could have easily sailed for free and I wondered if there were others doing that.

A stop at 'Midnight Sun Brewery'

We docked and then began my long drive back to Anchorage, though I did not mind because of the scenery.  I wanted to make a stop on the way at a place called ‘Midnight Sun Brewery’.  This was another of Alaska's craft breweries, and a famous one at that.  I had stopped here the last time and it had been a hidden place in an isolated alley.  As I parked the car it all came back to me and it was just the way I remembered it.  I got a small beer and then headed back to the hotel for the rest of my evening.  I wasn’t planning on going to multiple places and so just had a drink in my hotel before heading out for my final dinner in Anchorage.

The view of Sun that refuses to set

Popular opinion was that ‘Simon & Seaforts’ was the place to go for food while here.  It is a restaurant close to the waterfront, and I got seated at a table with a nice view.  There were 2 things that I absolutely wanted to try before leaving and this place had them.  One of them was “King Crab” and while I have always been intimidated of handling such items in the past, I just had to do it.  I was glad that I did, because it was as good as advertised, and besides a few blisters on my fingers, I did not embarrass myself in front of the other diners.  Now there was just one thing remaining.

"Baked Alaska" in Alaska

I had been fortunate in my childhood to have been exposed to various cuisines and dining experiences.  Some of my earliest memories were of this one place that we used to visit, where they capped each meal by rolling out a dessert cart.  But one day they brought out this amazing creation which was set on fire in front of us and after the flames had subsided, the server cut into the item to reveal a still frozen ice cream underneath.  How was that even possible?  Although at that age I had no idea what Alaska was or where it existed, a dessert bearing its name quickly became one of the most anticipated items on the menu for me and my mom and we always scanned the menu to see if a restaurant served it.  There was no way that I would ever leave Alaska without having “Baked Alaska” and this version came with “Fireweed ice cream’, which you cannot get anywhere else.  As the sun tried to set late at night, I had accomplished everything that I had set out to do.

Till I return

There wasn’t much anything remaining for next morning, and so I decided to head to the airport early.  I was connecting through Seattle and had a 45 minute layover, with a terminal change.  This was making me nervous, but I decided to put my faith in the hands of the airlines.  I dropped off my rental car and as I passed through the security, I noticed that there was an earlier flight to Seattle, which would give me some extra time before my next one.  So I asked and to my pleasant surprise, they had a seat for me.  However, this flight was running behind schedule and so there were a few people who were sweating on their connections.  As soon as we landed, they rushed out and in the haste, one of them grabbed my bag instead.  Fortunately they realized that and were waiting on the ramp for me, but now would have to wait till everyone deplaned before going back in.  Well, sometimes haste can backfire.

That was the only drama though and I got back home as anticipated.  This was one of the 2 big trips that I would be doing as part of these travels.  But it was so much more than that.  I had really wanted to return back to Anchorage and 'Mount Alyeska' in particular. Perhaps I wanted to confirm that I had not dreamt of it, and that it really does exist.  And now that I am back home, I want to return.  I guess that’s how it always goes.

33. Alaska - Part 1

Month: June 2017

Location: Anchorage

When I had started this, I arranged each of the 51 destinations into 8 Zones.  “Zone 8” was labeled as “Outer” and it had just 2 States in it – Alaska and Hawaii.  I had avoided them so far – due to the distance, time and expense – but with States running out, it was time to choose one of these.  It was a given that a visit to Alaska would have to be during the narrow summer window of June to August, and that decision would have to be made way ahead of time if I was to get a good deal.  So back in August of last year I spent an evening booking an expensive flight to Anchorage, pre-paying for a hotel room and luckily booking a car at the right moment before those prices went up – seriously, they did increase minutes later.

All aboard!

I had been to Alaska a few years ago, to Anchorage in fact, and so I did consider a different destination.  I have always found Juneau to be fascinating, being the only Capital city with no roads coming in and out.  But there had been something magical about my previous visit to Anchorage.  With its overcast weather and slight mist in the air, there is a dreamlike vibe to the place.  And it’s the kind of dream that you want to go back to.  I had an early morning flight and thankfully it was a direct one from Chicago to Anchorage.  That also meant that it was a long one.  However ‘Alaskan Airlines’ offered a suite of free movies that one could view on their laptop.  Plus there were power outlets under the seats and that made it convenient.  So the 6+ hours flew by – pun intended – and I looked outside the window to see a familiar sight from years ago, as the plane made its approach over the ‘Cook Inlet’ and landed in an overcast Anchorage.

Starting at 'Jen's Restaurant'

I had rented a car since I wanted to take a small trip outside of town – more on that later.  I could have gone to my hotel and checked in, but my priorities are clear when I visit places and on the top of the list is eating at places that are highly recommended.  So I drove straight to a place called ‘Jen’s Restaurant’, which was located in a “strip mall”.  As I settled in on the bar counter top, I noticed a lot of champagne bottles being displayed, though I stuck to food since I was driving.  They offered some traditional “Danish” dishes with impeccable service and it was a worthy start to my culinary adventures in Alaska.

The main room of 'Alaska Museum of Science & Nature'

There were a couple of museums that I wanted to visit in the afternoon and both were outside the downtown area.  So rather than driving to the hotel to drop off my bag and then getting into the car again, I decided that the check-in could wait.  I had given myself 90 minutes in ‘Alaska Museum of Science & Nature’ and it took me all of 20 minutes to get through the exhibits, which weren’t bad.  The lady at the counter was extremely friendly and warned me that a lot of kids were on their way for an excursion.  I said that I would stay out of their way, though with the small place and their noisy enthusiasm, I was well aware of their presence.  There were some examples of Alaskan wild life, including a colossal ‘King Crab’.  There was also an interesting piece on the Alaskan earthquake on 1964, but even with all of these, I was soon done and on my way to the next stop.

The "Alaska Native Games" were in progress

A few miles away was the ‘Alaska Native Heritage Center’ and I was pleased to have navigation guiding me because it wasn’t the easiest to find.  After following a winding road, I reached the center and as I got out of the car, there was a definite chill in the air.  The lady mentioned that there was an “Alaska Native Games” demonstration in progress on the main stage.  There was also a talk on “Introduction to Alaska Native Cultures” a bit later as well as “Alaska Native Heritage Center Dance”.  I went to see the “games” and there were some youth demonstrating incredible feats of athleticism and concentration.  One particular exercise was tying a ball on a string and then doing a standing kick to touch the ball, which was quite high.  They told us about the significance of these games in the native culture and how generations have been doing this.  In fact, one of the young men introduced his mother in the audience and how she used to participate in these when she was his age.  It was a great demonstration and showcased how much the natives value traits of focus and discipline.

The "village" at the back of the center

There was short break before the next program and so I walked about the center and saw the galleries which were organized by cultures of different tribes.  Alaska is a huge state, which if superimposed on the “lower 48”, would stretch from Florida to California.  The galleries showed the visitors the different parts of the state where the tribes were located and some of them are quite inhospitable areas.  There was an outdoor area spread around a pond and which had models of native dwellings.  There was going to be a guided tour of this “village” in 30 minutes and I preferred to do that rather than watch the dance program.  I did however attend the talk on Native Cultures, as a young lady told us about the different tribes and their locations and life in general.  The amount of information that I gathered during this talk made me glad to have come here and I was now looking forward to the tour.

Inside one of the dwellings

I went to the meeting spot and soon one of the youth who had been doing the games demonstration came over.  He would be the guide for this tour and we set off outside, it was now colder than I had expected.  But considering what we learned about the living conditions of the natives, no one should be complaining.  Each tribal region was represented in terms of their dwellings, which were minimalist and in most cases, underground.  Staying warm was the priority, especially in far north where even the summers are cold and harsh, let alone winters.  We were shown some of the items that they used in their houses, most made from animal parts.  The natives believe that no part of the animal should be wasted and everything was utilized, including things like stomachs as storage bags.  Seals were the main creatures being hunted, though some tribes are the only people who have a “whaling” license, being allowed to hunt 2-3 whales a year.  And when that happens, it is a big deal for the entire village and the community since it literally feeds everyone for months.  The stories were different in each of the model dwellings, each adding to the rich heritage and culture of the natives of that region; and serving as a lesson in survival.  And to think some folks get mad because their bus is late by a minute!

Downtown Anchorage

I drove back into downtown and towards my hotel, which was on the main street, though the entrance for cars was on the backside.  After some confusion I found the driveway and handed my car to the valet.  I have been having some luck with hotels and this one was no exception.  At the reception I learnt that I was in “Tower 3”, meaning there were 2 others!  Plus the trek to my elevator took me all over the hotel and I saw enough retail shops for this place to qualify as a mall!  I dropped off my bags in my room and then set off for the evening.  It was chilly, though luckily dry.  Thankfully the streets had numbers and letters, meaning navigating my way would be easy.  Getting into places, well, that may prove to be a challenge.

The secret "phone booth"

I was going to bar called ‘Blues Central’ which was located inside a hotel.  However, what made this one interesting was the process required to get in.  First, one had to locate an old fashioned telephone booth.  Then if a blue light was on, you could pick up the receiver and dial a number, upon which the person at the other end told you if there was any room.  If there was, then you were given a password and told to come upstairs.  Now that’s what I call a “speakeasy”!  It opened at 5 pm and it was approaching 20 minutes past the hour as I rushed there.  I had to ask some folks in the hotel and was told where the phone booth was located.  I saw that the light was on and so dialed the number.  The voice at the other end said “Ricky James”, which I guess was the password for this evening.  Then I went upstairs, hoping to see a sign.  But there wasn’t one and I was now in a hallway with several unmarked doors.  I had no idea which one to knock on.  At the end I saw a red door and to my surprise it was open.  It was also the side entry to the bar. So much for the password!

The fantastic 'Blues Central'

It was a typical “speakeasy”, dark and cozy, with a long bar.  It was also quite empty.  I sat at the bar and chatted with the mixologist, exchanging stories about some of our favorite places nationwide.  Soon the place started filling up and as is usually the case, I struck up a conversation with my fellow patrons, both locals and visitors.  I mentioned that I would be in NYC soon and a range of choices for cocktail bars were presented, and the bartender even showed me some books on those bars.  He certainly knew what he was doing and made a cocktail for me which involved a show with fire!  The locals seemed to be regulars and I was the beneficiary of his friendliness with them, being the recipient of some complimentary shots.  This certainly was a fantastic bar and a worthy addition to the list of places that I have visited.

The Champagnes of  'The Bubbly Mermaid Oyster Bar'

It was bright outside and after getting my bearings I set off for a place that some of my fellow revelers had recommended, ‘The Bubbly Mermaid Oyster Bar’.  It was a very small place, with a central bar around which many people had been crammed. But there was something cute about it, and all around us were bottles of Champagne; lots of bottles of Champagne.  If there ever was a “dive bar” for luxury items, this would be it.  I ordered a glass and some oysters and just soaked in the ambiance.  Next, I went over to a place called ‘Haute Quarter Grill’ prior to my dinner reservation.  It was a nice evening, still bright, and people had come out to enjoy that.  I was going to a place called ‘Glacier Brewhouse’ which looked like a typical beer hall.  I remembered this place from my previous visit and it was as crowded as before.  Its funny how years later you return back to a place and it seems familiar.  Alaska is known for its beer and seafood and these folks do an excellent job with both.  I had a great time here and a perfect end to my first night in Alaska.  And I use the word night loosely since there was still light outside.

It was a hazy morning

I had an early morning wake-up call because I was going on a tour of Anchorage.  I was getting picked up at the hotel, but didn’t know at which entrance.  I waited next to one and then the other, but there was no sign of my crew. They were supposed to arrive at 8 am, and had asked me to wait there since 7:45.  I called and left a message, and then got a call back where the driver said that he was caught in the morning traffic.  He told me to wait at the entrance with the “bus pickup” and there were several buses waiting for dozens of travelers, some of whom looked like they were preparing to go hike a glacier.  My van arrived and I climbed inside to see that there were already 6 others besides the driver, who would also be the guide.  I was sitting next to a gentleman who was visiting from North Dakota and had previously lived in Chicagoland.  He also looked like a serious photographer since while the rest of us were using our phones, he had a real camera.

The great earthquake of  1964

We started at a downtown building which told the story of the 1964 earthquake with maps and pictures and showed the destruction that had occurred.  After some time over here we got back in the van and our guide took us on a drive just outside of downtown, through one of the more affluent neighborhoods in the city.  The houses were gorgeous, including one which was built underground and the roof was a part of the garden.  Being a native, he was telling us about Anchorage from their perspective, including the time before and after Alaska became a State.  One of the stories was the US scrambling to get the native land when oil was discovered up in the North.  That led to the ‘Great Alaskan Pipeline’ being built all the way down to Valdez and they managed to get that done in record time through some inhospitable terrain.  Just goes to show nothing is insurmountable when money is at stake!

There are plenty of these in Alaska

Our guide was extremely motivated to find some Moose, so much so that he even told us to chant “Moose-Moose-Moose”.  Oh boy!  We drove to a park which presented a nice view of downtown and the mountains in the distance.  In fact, on a clear day you could even see ‘Mount Denali’.  The problem was the mosquito population of Alaska which is waiting to feast on you.  So we didn't spend a lot of time outside, taking some pictures and continuing our search of the elusive Moose.  Alaska has the most number of pilots per capita and most of those are sea planes, not surprising considering that a majority of Alaska cannot be accessed any other way.  Our guide took us to a nearby lake which serves as some sort of an “airfield” and I have never seen so many planes anywhere – and I don’t mean small planes in a field.  I mean planes anywhere, including big airports.  We took some pictures before the mosquito’s came after us and then it was back to the van.

This is at a hospital!

Our next stop was ‘Alaska Native Medical Center’, which our guide said was a state-of-the-art medical facility to rival any in the nation.  Plus it provided a free service to the natives.  It was also said to house some of the best native artifacts collection and we were going to see that.  We arrived at the hospital and it was like any other medical facility, with patients and doctors going about their daily tasks.  We took an elevator to the 4^th floor and in the lobby near the stairwell were display showcases, each housing native objects.  We were told to go down the stairs to the bottom floor and on our way we would see different displays on each floor.  It was a good collection that any museum would be proud to own and the fact that it was in a hospital was impressive.  I’m sure that it does bring cheer to all who are undergoing treatment.

The World's tallest "Chocolate Waterfall"

We spent some time here and then got back on the van to head to ‘Alaska Wild Berry Products’, which was a store selling all sorts of chocolate and candy products, along with boxed Salmon and other souvenirs.  While this was a well-known brand of products, what made this store special was that it housed the World’s tallest “Chocolate Waterfall”.  Really, there was a 20 foot chocolate fall inside the store like some real life “Willy Wonka Factory”.  Everyone posed for some pictures next to the fall and then started exploring the store.  There were long counters with display cases full of candy and chocolate truffles, including “triple dipped marshmallow” which I just had to get.  There were also long glass windows behind which we could see the candies being made.  This meant that everything in front of us was as fresh as it can get, though I refrained from buying any.  I did however sample some of their unique ice cream flavors before leaving for our next destination.

On the way to 'The Ulu Factory'

Our guide said that we were going to make a bonus stop at a place called ‘Alaska Sausage and Seafood’ which sold, well, sausages and cured smoked seafood.  They also offered some samples of their products, though “Reindeer Sausage” is not really something that I was keen on.  We tasted a few of their Salmon and Halibut and then left for our final stop, which was ‘The Ulu Factory’.  I had no idea what an “Ulu” was till I came here.  It is a curved knife that the Natives use and is supposed to be very versatile in its use.  I try to stay away from all sharp objects if I can, meaning it certainly wasn’t anything that I would be purchasing.  Our guide left us at the factory and said that we could take a free shuttle back to downtown. After watching a brief demonstration of the instrument, I said goodbye to my fellow travelers and got on the shuttle.

At the 'Anchorage Museum'

I was planning to go to the ‘Anchorage Museum’, but I had left my phone charging cable in the hotel and so rushed back to get it, before making the cross-downtown trek to the museum.  I had just enough time to get lunch before a guided tour, though it would have to be in the Museum Café.  Well, that café turned out be a full-fledged restaurant and a fantastic one at that.  I went over to the tour meeting area and saw that I was the only one there besides our guide.  That didn’t last for long and by the time the tour started, we had a big group.  This was one of the better museums that I have seen and the gallery that we started in was very impressive.  It had individual displays for the different native tribes – similar to what I had seen yesterday.  It was nice to hear stories from this guide’s perspective and to learn about the various artifacts.  After the tour I walked about the rest of the museum, including an exhibit called “Polar Bear’s Garden”, which is the narrow strait between Russia and the US.  This was not just an art museum, but also had some interactive exhibits for kids as well as a “Planetarium”.  I attended a show on “Northern Lights” and when I left, most of the afternoon was still available to me.

The fantastic map inside the 'Visitor's Center'

I stopped at a mall in downtown, which was like any other mall that one can find in any other town.  I stopped at one of the 2 ‘Visitor’s Center’, though one had to go through a security screening to rival an airport! The guards mentioned that besides being a visitor’s center, this was also a functioning Government building and thus the precautions.  Well, considering that I had walked through the 'Utah State Capitol’ last month without any check’s, I still considered it a bit excessive; but to each their own.  They had various stations and I stopped by at one saying ‘Alaskan Railroad’ for some information, which comprised of them giving me a brochure and asking me to direct questions directly to the railroad.  So much for getting help here!  They also had something that looked like a small museum, though the highlight of this place - and which makes it worth visiting - is a giant map of Alaska, showing its topography.  It is mounted on the floor and the visitors can walk around it, absorbing in the scale of the State. That’s exactly what I did for the duration of my visit.

My evening's agenda

Clearly I wasn’t going to learn much over here, and so I walked across the road to the 2^nd visitor’s center which was much smaller, a lot friendlier and did not have a security screening.  I obtained some information on ‘Portage Glacier’, which isn’t too far from the place I am visiting tomorrow.  As I started walking back towards my hotel, I passed by several souvenir shops that are lined along the main street, each of them full of all the things that souvenir seekers are looking for.  All I got there was a bottle of water and then it was onward to my room for a brief respite before heading out for the evening, which would be similar to last night.

On to the next one

I wasn’t going too far for my first stop, which was a bar in my hotel called ‘Fletcher’s’, and it looked like an Irish saloon.  From there it was a short walk through the hotel lobby for another place called ‘Whale’s Tail’, where I got a drink called “Alaska Night Starter”, which was quite appropriate.  I emerged from my hotel and went down the main street – which had its evening buzz – and to a place called ‘Ginger’, who are doing some interesting things with food and drink within a modern eclectic place.  The following stop however was a complete opposite of this and as old school as possible, with dark interiors and dark corners where mob deals may be going down.  Called ‘Paris Club’, this is one of Anchorage’s more iconic restaurants, and a popular spot with locals and tourists alike. 

The absolutely charming 'Marx Bros Cafe'

As with any other visit, I had spent some time researching places for dining and one name that had popped up in several lists was ‘Marx Bros Café’.  Now, having seen and enjoyed Marx Brothers movies, I wasn’t sure how that would lend itself towards dining, but everything about it looked intriguing.  The restaurant was located inside a house, meaning different rooms would function as dining areas.  I have had some great experiences in such places and this one was no exception.  The food was great, the service impeccable and I even saw a gentleman make tableside “Caesar’s Salad” - an art form from a forgotten era.  I came back to my hotel after a nice evening, but there was one more thing that I wanted to do tonight.  On the top of one of the towers is the hotels signature restaurant, ‘Crow’s Nest’.  It was late and the dinner service was winding down, though one couldn’t tell looking at the bright skies outside the window.  And what a sight in all directions; overlooking the ‘Cook Inlet’, the mountains and of course the city of Anchorage.  I could have stayed there all night, but with or without the sunlight, they needed to close and so I returned back to my room.  Tomorrow I would be visiting some of the ghosts from the past and the only reason why I was paying for a car which I hadn’t even used today.

To Be Continued...