35. Maine

Month: August 2017

Location: Portland

The first time that I heard of Maine, was in the Stephen King novel, “IT”.  In fact, “IT” was the first “adult novel” that I ever read.  With the movie coming out soon, I picked up an audio version and listening to it after all these years, I was surprised that I was allowed to borrow it at that young age.  Not only is it dark, it also has several adult themes, not to mention the language.  I am quite sure that I probably did not understand most of what was going on.  However, Stephen King did become one of the authors that I continued to read and through him I was convinced that Maine was one of the most haunted States in the US!  But his descriptions also made it appear enchanting, with its small towns and natural beauty.  That was affirmed when I visited ‘Acadia National Park’ years ago and it remains one of the most beautiful places that I have seen.  I contemplated going back, but Portland was a more intriguing prospect. So on a Friday morning in August, I departed for Maine.  I hadn’t planned for it to be this way, but I was listening to “IT”.  It just seemed like the right choice.

My home for 2 nights

I had seen in the forecast that it would be raining in Portland on Friday and so had packed a light waterproof jacket.  As soon as we had landed, I saw that it was a downpour and my jacket wouldn’t be enough.  I found my way to the taxi stand and when I gave the driver the address, he asked if I was going to Portland or South Portland.  I was staying at a place called ‘Morrill Mansion Bed & Breakfast’ and since it wasn’t a typical hotel, was not familiar to the driver.  I didn’t know where it was either, and so I turned on the directions on my phone and we followed it through the rain.  We arrived at a residential looking neighborhood and in front of a house that did not have any big signs.  I rushed inside and was greeted by a friendly gentleman who introduced himself as David, the owner of this place.

It was cozy on the inside

There’s nothing like a “New England B&B” and this one was as cozy as it gets.  David took me on a tour and it looked great.  There was a nice sitting room downstairs as well as one on the second level, with games and books – lot of Stephen King novels – as well as a bunch of movies that the guests could take to the player in their room.  Each room had a distinct theme and we took a really narrow stairway to mine on the topmost level. It was called “Back Cove Room” and though small, looked comfortable.  Plus, there was a jar of chocolates and David mentioned that there would be cookies downstairs as an afternoon treat.  He asked if I needed any dinner recommendations and I said that all I needed right now was an umbrella.  Fortunately, he had several and I picked up a sturdy one and called an ‘Uber’.

The famous milkshake

It was mid-afternoon and I wasn’t quite ready for eating anything.  However, this was the only time for me to visit one of the popular places in Portland called ‘Duckfat’.  It was known for its fries which they cooked in, well, Duck Fat.  But they had one more thing that I found intriguing, and that was their “Original Milkshake” which had all good things made from Vanilla.  The short distance from the car to the entrance was enough to soak me and once inside it wasn’t better since the place was packed.  It was just after 3 pm and there was over an hour wait.  I guess with the rain outside people were craving fries and milkshake.  I expressed my disappointment and said that while the fries sounded great, I was there for the milkshake.  The hostess suggested that I could get it to go and I hesitated for a second since it was raining outside.  Just for a second.  So a few minutes later I walked out in the rain holding my delicious milkshake in one hand, my phone navigation in another and somehow balancing the umbrella on my shoulder.

Original Cannon from the Pirate Ship

I devoured the milkshake real fast and that made carrying the umbrella a bit easier.  Well, not that it helped much since I was still getting wet and the crosswalks were flooded.  I was going to ‘Portland Science Center’ which was by the waterfront.  As I approached it I saw signs advertising “Pirate Adventure”, which I reckoned was an exhibit at the museum.  Well, it turned out to be the only exhibit that they had but since it was raining outside, not the worse way to spend the afternoon.  I left my umbrella amongst dozens of others, meaning there was a decent turnout.  I entered through a dark passage – to set the mood I suppose – into a room where we were shown a short video on piracy along the New England coast in late 18^th century.  This included a young protagonist who left on a ship to earn money so as to marry his beloved and ended up commandeering a Pirate ship.  The exhibit, which was spread over 2 floors, told story of what happened to him and his crew – spoiler alert; they all perish either at sea or by hanging.  They also had some of the original props from that period, including cannons, making this a popular destination for kids.

At 'Rhum & Grog'

The rain had abated when I left and there was a slight drizzle as I tried to find my way to the next stop.  On the way there, the real charm of Portland was starting to emerge with its cobblestone streets and boutique shops.  After a slight detour where I had to go through a parking lot shrub, I arrived at ‘Rhum & Grog’, which was a classic “Tiki Bar” if there ever was one, with island decorations and colored lights.  I saw something on the menu that was called “Dead On Arrival” and announced itself as being one of the stronger offerings.  I told the bartender that this was my first stop and I needed to last for several hours, but seeing that I was there that early, he said that I could handle it.  My reputation precedes me!  The drink was strong, but not enough to cause a knockout and I was feeling fine when I left.

The rain was dissipating as I continued my evening

The rain had gone and the sun was trying to come out as I went to my next place called ‘Crooners and Cocktails’.  This took me into an area full of restaurants and bars and people had started coming out.  My place wasn’t that full and looked like an old fashioned “jazz bar” without the jazz.  The staff looked like the gentlemen servers from the past and one of them looked like he wanted to chat, which I wasn’t in the mood for at that time.  In any case, I had finished my drink and was ready to move on to the next stop, which was across the street.  It was supposedly a popular spot called ‘Portland Hunt & Alpine Club’.  Now this place was a lot livelier and buzzing as I went in.  I took a seat at the bar and ordered a drink called “Norseman”, which was highly recommended.  While I prefer to have my cocktails in dark and quiet lounges, I did like this place, which had wide open windows and an informal setting.

A "Comic Book Store" at the
end of the hallway

I left and was halfway down the block when I realized that I had forgotten my borrowed umbrella and so rushed back to collect it from the corner where I had dumped it.  As I made my way to the next place I saw a building with shops and one of them was a "Comic Book Store".  I went inside and spent some time browsing.  One thing I love about such stores is that they do not mind if you are just wandering about.  I then went to another signature place in Portland, ‘Vena’s Fizz House’, which besides being a bar, was also an “apothecary” where one could purchase infusions and bitters. They are known for their infusions and had a special menu with drinks made from their homemade concoctions.  I got something called “Blackberry Stinger” and sat at a bar, which unlike the last place was a more classic cocktail lounge.

The interesting 'Glass Lounge'

A beautiful evening had set in and people had come out to enjoy that.  At my next place called ‘Blyth and Burrows’ I barely got a place to sit and consistent with the interesting names of cocktails that I had today, this one was called “Penny Cap”.  But that did not compare to the name of the cocktail that I had at my next place, ‘The Glass Lounge’.  It was called “Why’s the Rum Gone” and based on what I was having, there was certainly enough of it in my glass!  It was now time for dinner and I was going to a place called ‘Street & Company’.  Portland is a town known for its restaurants and this one was on top of several lists.  In fact, I had called them for a reservation while in Boise last month.  The restaurant was nestled in a narrow cobblestone alley and while not “fine dining”, was quite cozy.  Being Maine, I had to get the lobster and also made friends with a couple on next table who didn’t mind when one of the lobster pieces flew and landed near them as I struggled with the shell.  They offered me some of their appetizers, which I turned down since I was full.  However, before leaving I whispered to my server that I wanted to send them a Chocolate dessert and left before it was delivered.  Outside, the narrow street had been closed since it was now party central with a lot of people celebrating Friday evening.  Luckily my ‘Uber’ driver found me and I was soon back in my charming room, exhausted after a fantastic first evening.

A beautiful day for a walk

I came downstairs the next morning and David was wearing his apron and in attendance at breakfast.  There was a small dining room and after finding a table I went to check what was on offer.  This wasn’t like one of your chain hotel breakfasts but fresh, homemade food that would have made any restaurant proud.  I was going on a “Walking Tour of Downtown Portland” and our meeting point was a place called ‘Lobsterman’s Park’.  It was a mile away and since I had enough time, I decided to walk there, which was turned out to be a good decision since it took me through some nice looking areas of the downtown.  I arrived at the meeting point and saw that there would another couple besides me on the tour – Ann and Charlie from Baltimore.  Our tour guide was also the owner of the company and a proud Maine native.  We were in good hands.

The one place that survived
all of the fires

She started off by telling us about the history of Portland and the cultural landscape.  It seems that Portland is second to San Francisco in having most restaurants and bars per capita of the population.  And speaking of the population, while Maine is a big state, most of the population is concentrated in and around Portland.  It is one of the fastest growing cities in the nation and certainly the 2^nd most popular in New England - after Boston - especially amongst youngsters.  It is also very inclusive, welcoming refugees and being tolerant of all communities.  Plus it has a lot of history, starting with the “Revolutionary War”.  We started walking through the streets and our guide mentioned how Portland as a city kept getting burnt down and then rebuilding, having gone through the cycle three times!  On one occasion a British Naval Officer came over to bombard the city, but in a very gentlemanly manner, gave the townspeople advance warning, thus allowing them to go away and save themselves.  He then proceeded to level the city, though we did see one church that survived that attack.

The serene garden behind
  'Longfellow House'

We walked through the main “square”, though it really wasn’t a square, but a place where people could gather around in the evening.  For some reason Portland has a lot of banks and most of the buildings that we passed were affiliated with those.  One of the nation’s best known poets, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, was born in Portland and his residence is now a historic landmark.  The property now bellows to ‘Maine Historical Society’, who had a building next door and which ironically was very modern as compared to this quaint house.  The house itself was only accessible by appointment, but we could walk through the gardens which were outstanding. Our guide mentioned that the gardens are public property and many people who work nearby usually get their lunch and enjoy it in these tranquil settings.  It is a hidden gem in the middle of downtown, similar to a place I had discovered by accident near ‘Columbus Circle’ in NYC years ago.  Before we left the gardens, we were interrupted by a gentleman who was clearly homeless and suffering from mental illness. While he didn’t really ask for anything, he did impart a lengthy discourse which was mostly unintelligible.  Our guide mentioned that we would encounter many such people in Portland, though they were mostly harmless.

John Ford

Portland downtown is not level and being somewhat of a peninsula, slopes on either side of the main street, both ways leading to the waterfront.  We started towards the main harbor and as we walked down the slope, it occurred to me that while these were beautiful streets, they weren’t very conducive to walking in the winter. Plus, based on yesterday's rainfall, it would really not behoove any business being downhill!  Before reaching the waterfront we came across the statue of John Ford - the John Ford.  I had no idea that he was from Portland, always assuming he was a Southerner or from California, at least based on the movies that he made.  Around his statue were plaques of his most well-known films and having enjoyed many of them, it was a nice surprise to see this monument.  We were now near the harbor and being a nice day it was crowded.  We passed by a Donut place called ‘Holy Donut’, which was started by a young woman when she was a student, and which is a popular place with locals and visitors alike.  The reason for that – the donuts contains potatoes!  Yep, never saw that coming.  There was a big line waiting to get in, though I wasn’t sure I would be amongst them.

Lunch with a view at 'Portland Lobster Company'

Our guide left us outside one of the more popular eating establishments called ‘Portland Lobster Company’.  She even told us how to order the famous “Lobster Roll” - buttered and without any mayo.  My fellow travelers and I decided to have lunch together and found a spot outside on the wharf, as we waited for our Lobster shape pager to buzz.  That took a long time, allowing me to chat with Ann and Charlie and I told them about my travels, something that everyone I meet finds interesting.  They were on their way back to Baltimore while I had a couple of places that I wanted to visit this afternoon.  So after lunch we exchanged numbers and went our separate ways.

'Victoria Mansion'

Another historic landmark in Portland is a place called ‘Victoria Mansion’, built in the mid-19^th Century for an affluent couple.  It was a short walk away from downtown and as I approached it, while not quite like the mansions of Newport, it did look grand.  I got a ticket at the “Gift Shop”, where I was also told not to take any pictures inside the house.  There were in middle of restorations on a room, but right away I could see the opulence based on the main room, the dining area as well as the central stairway.  There were volunteer docents in each room to help explain the settings as well as the significance of that place.  Upstairs were the Bedrooms and for once I thought that the “Guest Bedroom” was better than the main one.  But the most intriguing room by far was something called “Turkish Smoking Room”.  I thought that it would make for a great nook to stretch out and read, but smoking when there were drapes, carpets and upholstery around; perhaps not so much.

'Portland Museum of Art' - the one in Maine!

Nearby was the “Portland Museum of Art” and they were supposed to have a tour at 3 pm.  I walked over there and saw that the building itself looked quite modern and artistic.  I purchased my ticket and asked the lady where to assemble for the tour and she said there wasn’t any such thing today.  I said that I begged to differ and that it was mentioned on the website.  After some debate we realized that I had been looking at the website for ‘Portland Art Museum’, which is in Portland all right.  Portland, Oregon! And I had been to that.  Well, guided tour or not, I was still going to explore this place and that was a good thing because this museum is excellent.  Visitors are encouraged to start on the top floor and work their way down through several galleries, which are designed to be very “open” spaces rather than individual rooms.  The art work – which wasn’t just paintings – was interesting and I was impressed by their collection.  The museum extended out to other buildings, including another one of those historic houses, though nowhere close to the mansion I had just visited.  For me, the best thing I saw in the museum was a wall in the area next to the café, where there were inanimate objects such as a toy car, flowers etc. and visitors were encouraged to either draw or write down their impressions on a card and pin it.  I enjoy seeing such displays in museums – and I have seen in several places – and spend several minutes examining some of the cards.

This became my favorite place - 'Bramhall'

There was some sort of street performance going on across the museum and a big crowd had gathered.  But I had other plans, the first of which was visiting a cocktail lounge which was actually located near my “B&B”.  This meant that I would be walking more than a mile away from downtown to where I was staying and then walking back for the rest of the evening and the going back for the night.  The things I do for a good cocktail!  On the way there I came across a “Used Book Store” and of course, I had to go inside for a walkthrough.  I then continued towards my destination, which was called ‘Bramhall’.  It was a bar located in a basement and felt like a dungeon with stone walled dark room and dripping candle wax.  In short, I loved it.  I liked it even more when I saw that they had “Rice Crispy Treats” on the menu.  I told the bartender that I had never seen these as a part of a menu and these ones were topped with “Nutella”.  Yes please.  My evening was off to a great start with these accompanying a cocktail called “Nomad”; and in this setting too.

The whimsical 'Bearded Lady's Jewel Box'

I had been told to go to a curiously titled, ‘Bearded Lady’s Jewel Box’ for a cocktail.  It was on my way back into downtown and as I entered the bar, it looked like a whimsical place.  There were things hanging from the ceiling that looked like shredded “Wedding Dresses”, some creative shrines and all other things that gave this place its own unique character.  This place was the polar opposite of the one that I was coming from and that’s why I love travelling and finding these spots.  The owner was sitting next to me and framing the menus.  Yes, the menus are handed out as picture frames.  I ordered something called “Gnarly Beard” and it was just as original as this place. 

A famous Portland watering hole - 'Lincoln's'

I came into the main part of downtown just as the evening set in and headed to another place that was on everyone’s list – ‘The Armory Lounge’.  It was a part of a hotel and resembled being in a library.  Well, one with a central bar.  There were just a couple of people in there; I suppose it was a nice enough evening to be outside rather than a stuffy lounge.  I got a drink called “Cold Toddy” and then continued to a place nearby called ‘Maps’.  This is a “Dive Bar” known for 2 things – Cheap Beer and Maps on the walls.  It was also full of people and I was lucky to find a chair in the corner to go with my “German Lager”.  Another place that was similar to this was ‘Lincoln’s’.  Any internet search for bars in Portland probably has this place on the top for one reason – all drinks are $5, and its cash only.  As can be imagined, it is extremely popular and boisterous.  But despite the inexpensive drinks, the interior resembles a respectable night club.

Ending the evening at 'Fore Street'

My final stop prior to dinner was at a place called ‘North Point’ which had something like “Christmas Lights”, thus making it a very “warm” place.  For me, it was just a place to spend some time prior to my dinner reservations at a place called ‘Fore Street’.  It looked similar to the place that I had been to last night – not surprising since I learned later that they both has the same owner – though the menu was different.  It had open kitchen and a lively ambiance and the food was good.  I called an ‘Uber’ and seriously contemplated going back to ‘Bramhall’ – it was a minute away from my place – for a nightcap.  Well, more for the “Rice Crispy Treats” really.  But, it had been a long day and I retired back to my room.

I couldn't give this a miss

The next morning I came down to hand over my keys to David and he invited me to have breakfast.  I was going on a “Portland Old Port Culinary Walking Tour” i.e. classy way of saying “food tour”.  Due to that, I wasn’t planning to eat beforehand, but then David told me there were “Baked Eggs with Lobster”, and well so much for arm twisting.  When he meant lobster, he wasn’t kidding since there were chunks of it in there.  I was planning on walking in to the downtown and since I was to leave for the airport directly from there, was carrying my backpack with me.  It was a hot day, I mean really hot and thus not conducive to carrying a load while on an extended walking tour.  I was rushing to get to the meeting stop and in my haste went past the cross street where I was supposed to turn and then had to rush back.  Did I mention that it was hot!

Some fancy dip's at the first stop

I was meeting my group outside a place called ‘Old Port Wine Shop’ and was the last to arrive.  We had a big group, including a family with a baby in a carriage.  Our guide introduced himself as a food enthusiast and on a mission to go to all the restaurants in the city.  We started in the wine shop where he showed us a bottle of “Mead”, which is one of the major products of Maine.  Apparently the law prohibits people from tasting alcohol in a wine shop and so we moved next door to do our actual tasting.  With a baby carriage in our group, it was a challenge getting it in and out of the stores and would be for the rest of the tour.  Besides the mead, we also tasted “Lobster Mac & Cheese”.  Plus we had a variety of “Balsamic Vinegar's” and some flavored salts to try as dips.  It was a good start and the best thing about being in this place was that it was air-conditioned and I could keep my bag down.

The vintage 'Public Market House'

Our guide was constantly giving us pointers about where to eat and fully endorsed my dinner selections over the last couple of evenings. He did mention a place called ‘Grace’, which is a restaurant built inside a church, not unlike ‘Church Brew Works’ in Pittsburgh.  We stopped at a chocolate shop called ‘Dean’s Sweets’ and then proceeded to a place called ‘Public Market House’, which our tour guide said was the oldest “food court”, but not the one found in your typical Mall's.  On the way there we walked past several places that I had seen yesterday as a part of my tour and it was nice to hear his version of those stories.  I also chatted with some of the members in our group and it was interesting to hear what had brought everyone to Portland, and to this tour in particular.  In fact, a couple from Massachusetts had made a trek this morning just for this.

Those 'Wild Blueberries' were outstanding

At the ‘Public Market House’ we went to the second floor, which had a few unique places and we would be tasting things from 2 of those.  The first one was a soup spot called…wait for it…’Kamasouptra’.  Yep, they went there.  They had about 8-10 varieties of soup and we were encouraged to try as many as we liked before picking the one we would like to have as a cup.  I tried a few and all of them were delicious; something that would be perfect during the cold Maine winters.  But I went for the good old fashioned “New England Clam Chowder”, because I was in Maine after all.  Next on the menu was “Wild Blueberry Sticky Rice”, which was from a place run by 2 sisters who had spent some time in Thailand and had fallen in love with the “Sticky Rice” delicacy.  They had returned to open this restaurant and by all accounts have been successful.  Now, I am not a huge fan of Blueberries by themselves – I don’t mind them as a part of other products or dishes – but these were different.  Much smaller than the typical ones found in a grocery store, they were sweeter and a perfect addition to this dish.

The famous 'Stonewall Kitchen'

We continued on and I was feeling the heat and the weight of my bag as we entered the crowded streets.  Our next stop was something that was quite well known amongst purveyors of fine grocery products – ‘Stonewall Kitchen’.  A business started by 2 friends in Maine to sell “preserves” and “chutney’s” at Farmer’s Market has since grown into an empire that comprised of 10 stores on the East Coast as well as shelf space in ‘Whole Foods’.  Entering the store, it felt like a “Gourmet Food Store”, which it was.  We tasted their most famous product which launched all of this, “Wild Maine Blueberry Jam”, and it was on top of a freshly made Biscuit.  This was by far the best thing that had I tasted today and while the jam by itself was outstanding, along with the biscuit it reached an elevated status which would be tough to beat.  They encouraged us to try other products throughout the store and while everything was very good, I kept coming back to that Blueberry Jam.

I was supposed to climb that!

The final stop on the tour was at a “Brewpub” that advertised itself as being “Maine’s Original”.  It was called ‘Gritty’s’ and was just like any other pub in any other city.  We did try some of their house brews alongside some pub appetizers, and then the tour was over.  It had been good without being spectacular, though not the most terrible way to learn about the city and its food scene.  I had a few hours before I had to leave for the airport and despite the heat and my bag, I decided to make the relatively long trek to the ‘Portland Observatory’ – and uphill too.  I had heard about this place during my walking tour yesterday and learned about its unique history, which was an example of entrepreneurship at its finest.  Built in early 19^th Century, this was a privately owned “Maritime Signal Tower”; not a Lighthouse.  People paid a gentleman named Captain Lemuel Moody a subscription fee of $5 to alert them when their ships were approaching the harbor.  The ships couldn’t typically be seen from the harbor and so via this means of communication the ship owners could prepare for the arrival of their goods and crews.  I was definitely interested in learning more, not to mention the view from the top.

One of the levels inside the 'Portland Observatory'

I arrived at the Observatory huffing and puffing and the lady inside said that I could take a tour starting in a few minutes and which comprised of more climbing!  I seemed to be the only visitor at that time and so would have my own personal guide.  Before we reached the top, there would be 5 levels and each one had exhibits telling a part of the story regarding that place.  As we went up I asked my guide how many times she made the trip during the day and she said several.  This was steep and kudos to her for doing that.  I have climbed some towers in the past and most of them lead you on a spiral path before depositing you at the top.  I loved that over here not only were there levels, but each one was significant.  I learned more about the Captain Moody and how he would sit at the top with his powerful telescope and when he saw an approaching ship – as far as 30 miles away – he would hoist a flag so as to inform his subscribers.  On one of the levels I saw the collection of flags and it was brilliant.  Of course, once the radio was invented, this became obsolete. But what an idea.

And the gorgeous view from the top

One of levels told the story of tower over the decades when it wasn’t being used, till the 80’s, when it became a historic landmark.  I saw that in one of the enclosures there was something that looked like a bug and my guide mentioned that it was a “Powder-Post Beetle”, which I guess is similar to termites, just bigger.  They discovered this in the woodwork, leading to massive restoration project and there were photographs of the same.  Finally, it was opened in early 2000’s for tourists and is now over 200 years old.  We had reached the top and the views were stunning.  It was a clear day and I could see across the harbor and also on the other side, where in the distance were the mountains of New Hampshire.  I took some pictures and even sat in the same place where Captain Moody would have been. I must commend his commitment since despite the view, it wouldn’t have been comfortable, especially in the winter.

Last stop before leaving - 'Eastern Promenade'

I came down and proceeded towards something known as the ‘Eastern Promenade’, which was a park on the waterfront.  There was also a beach over there and it was crowded.  It looked like everyone had come out to be in the sun.  There was also a walkway and a small train track which was headed into downtown; and I was hoping that I would be able to get on to a street at some stage.  So I set off and after some time came across ‘Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Co & Museum’, which explained the train track.  They were also running some sort of a tour on a train since I saw one pass by with tourists.  I found my exit and came out onto a street which led me to ‘Duckfat’ - as crowded as before.  I contemplated going in and making it a perfect bookend to this weekend, but called an ‘Uber’ instead and left for the airport.  What a town!  I had enjoyed my time here and Portland may actually be my favorite city in New England now.  I can totally see it overtaking Boston as a destination for youngsters, and pretty soon.  As a kid I thought that Maine was a place where all bad things happened, thanks to Stephen King books.  It's anything but. 

34. Idaho

Month: July 2017

Location: Boise

When people think of Idaho, they associate it with potatoes.  I always thought of it in the same vein as Washington or Oregon, a classic Northwestern State with mountains and mild weather.  In terms of picking a place, I did not know much beyond Boise, so that’s where I was going.  I arrived in Boise on a Friday afternoon and soon realized that Idaho is a long State – lengthwise – and Boise is towards the lower part of the State.  This means that it is closer to Nevada than the Pacific Northwest, and thus hot like a desert.  But it did look clean, and with mountains in the distance, definitely a city that I could end up liking.

My roomie

My hotel said that they had a free shuttle service from the airport though I couldn’t see a van with my hotels name on it.  So I sat at the bench and called them, only to hear that it should already be there.  Fortunately, a gentleman came and asked if I was waiting for a ride and only then I saw that the van was serving more than one establishment.  I arrived at ‘Hotel 43’ and at check-in asked why it was named so.  They said that Idaho was on the 43^rd parallel, the 43^rd State in the Union and the hotel was built during the 43^rd Presidency.  Well, that seemed like a good enough reason, though the last one was stretching it a bit.  As I entered my room I noticed that I wasn’t the sole occupant.  Sitting on a chair was a Teddy Bear wearing the Hotel bathrobe, with a note that I could purchase him from the gift shop if I wanted to.  Never in my travels have I been welcomed with a plush toy.  There’s a first time for everything and I for one wasn’t complaining.

On my way

There were a couple of places that I wanted to visit in the afternoon and so I set off immediately.  Like many of the other cities that I have visited recently, the downtown looked spotless.  I passed through what looked like a shopping area, with a central fountain that sprayed water from the floor and kids running through it trying to catch the jet; all while their parents drank beer nearby.  I was going to a place called ‘The Basque Museum & Cultural Center’ in what was called the “Basque District”.  I had no idea what that meant or referred to, just that this place had shown up in the list of museums in the city.  I had absolutely no idea on what to expect from this place.

I had no knowledge of this culture

As I turned on the street where the museum was located, I did find it to be different than the others and from what I have seen in the pictures, very “European”.  I entered the museum along with an elderly couple at 3:50 pm and was told that they were closing in 10 minutes.  However, the gentleman at the counter was extremely friendly and said that we could do a quick tour if we rushed.  He joined us as a tour guide and it was then that I learnt that Basque is a region shared between France and Spain and which has its own unique culture and customs.  Being denied their own independent country, many natives have gone abroad looking for a better life, Boise being one of the largest settlements.  I asked the question which needed to be asked, “Why Boise of all places”.  Well, it seems that Basque folks are primarily “Sheep Farmers” and this region was ideally suited for that, whatever that means!

Starting my culinary adventure in Boise 

There wasn’t much time, so I rushed through the couple of galleries containing history of Basque people in America and a display with some of their local art and items that one may find in their household.  Before leaving I asked if there were any restaurants with Basque cuisine and of course there were a few on the block, including one across the street.  It was called ‘Basque Market’ and besides being a restaurant, it doubled as a grocery store of sorts for some Basque products.  I walked through it and found a delicious looking thing called “Chocolate Cream Pudding” in their refrigerator.  The proprietor endorsed it wholeheartedly and so I grabbed a table outside and gobbled it down.  This would have to do in terms of food till dinner time which was hours away.

'State Capitol'

As with any other State Capital, I wanted to visit the ‘Capitol’.  It’s not difficult to spot that building in any city owing to the dome and this one was just a couple of blocks away.  One of the reasons that I like visiting the ‘Capitol’ buildings is because they are usually located within a park and everything around it appears to be quite, no matter how bustling the city.  As I entered the building, I wasn’t expecting anything as pretty as the one in Utah, but this one wasn’t shabby; not at all.  It was majestic, with a central foyer around which spiral staircases went upwards and down.  I went upstairs and was able to visit the “House” and “Senate” rooms which looked fantastic.  Being vacant at this time, I was able to walk through the floor and the chairs in the balconies.  I always appreciate when places such as these are so easily accessible to public and for them to see where their elected officials gather to make decisions on their behalf.

The beautiful interior

The building had multiple levels, including two long wings that extended on either side.  I could see sunlight coming in through the roof, but I did not recollect seeing these wings on the outside.  That’s when I realized that these corridors were actually below ground with a garden on top of it.  And to think that this is a Government building!  There certainly was a lot to explore, including an exhibit on the history of Nuclear Waste dump in Idaho and some conflict that arose because of that.  I walked through the building and it took longer than I thought, which is always a good thing.  Now it was time to see how Boise measured up in the evening.

My first stop at 'The Mode Lounge'

I had identified a few places that I wanted to visit and they were quite close to each other.  As I approached the first location I could see why, since this appeared to be the epicenter of all things social in downtown Boise.  The people had assembled and were on the patio of the numerous bars and restaurants lined up along the street.  I stopped at a place called ‘Red Feather Lounge’ and saw that it was full, with no place to sit at the bar.  So I went to a place across the street called ‘The Mode Lounge’ which had absolutely no one.  I chatted with the bartender and she told me about a drink on their menu which is limited to 1 per person; always interesting when that’s stated on the menu.  I did not get that, though my cocktail was interesting in its flavor profile.  I did like this place though, especially its creative light fixtures that looked like the tops of wine glasses.

The drink was better than what was playing

I went back to the ‘Red Feather Lounge’ and learnt that I had been in the wrong place earlier.  This one had ample space and looked more like a cocktail bar than the boisterous one next door.  I stayed there for a while and then went to another place just around the corner called ‘Press & Pony’.  Now, this had all the makings of a “Speakeasy” with a dark curtain for an entrance and an interior that looked like an apothecary.  Plus the bartender was wearing a waistcoat and a mustache that “Hercule Poirot” would have approved.  There was also a group of young ladies who looked like they were part of a bridal party and so all bets were off.  I ordered a drink which tasted like something filtered through an ashtray and so for the first time in a long time, I returned it back.  Typically I would not do it, but if this place prided itself in making cocktails then why not.  I told him that I didn’t want him to remake it, but rather fix it.  He made it a bit better, but definitely not something that I would be ordering again.

Behind those curtains are Waffles and Fries!

Before leaving I asked him directions to the bathroom and he directed me towards another dark curtain, which took me to a whole new establishment - in fact 2 of them, “Boise Fry Company” and “Waffle Me Up”.  Since Boise is known for potatoes, it made sense that someone decided to open a restaurant dedicated to fries.  That’s what “Boise Fry Company” was, a restaurant whose menu consisted of different types of fries.  And that wasn’t the only thing.  It had a wall with taps of different types of ketchup and sauces.  You could get as many as you wanted to go with your fries.  The tag line of this place was “Fries with a side of Burgers”.  Now, whoever thought of putting this in a location so that every drunk from the bar who heads to the bathroom sees the ultimate junk food, deserves an award for entrepreneurship.  Plus, let’s not forget the waffle place which provided both, sweet and savory waffles.  Man, I could just spend an evening behind these walls and get everything.  But I had dinner plans and other places to visit.

I was staring at it for 10 minutes

There was time for one more stop before dinner and I saw that there was a place nearby called ‘Whiskey Bar’, magical words together!  So I went there and saw that while the place was big and a decent one to pass off as a salon, it was quite empty.  I got a cocktail there and then it was time to head back.  I did see another lounge next to it which looked interesting and worth exploring tomorrow.  I was having dinner at a restaurant called ‘Chandler’s’, which called itself “The home of the 10 Minute Martini™” – yes, they trademarked it.  Well, it was also in my hotel so if the martinis were indeed as advertised, I wouldn’t have to travel far afterwards.  I arrived early and sat at the bar and despite urging from a young woman who came over from her table and told me to order the “Bartender special”, I went with what they were most known for.  The reason why it’s called a “10 Minute Martini™” is because the bartender makes it and then puts it on ice for exactly 10 minutes while you look at it.  It certainly was chilled to perfection and perhaps something “007” could add to his order.  The dinner was very good, as was the ambiance with the live jazz.  I could have hung around for another nightcap but they were closing and so I headed upstairs to my Teddy Bear, satisfied with the way this day had gone.

Saturday Markets are the best

I left my hotel the next morning with an intention to go to a coffee shop and hang out till my first activity of the day.  But I saw that there was a street market in progress next to my hotel and so decided to walk through.  It is always interesting to see the local farmers and produce, but what I truly like at a street market is the various food stalls…let’s face it, everyone does.  There were certainly many options here, and the one I passed by twice before coming back to it was the mobile version of the restaurant that I had seen yesterday, ‘Waffle Me Up’.  Their savory waffle looked interesting and despite there being no proper tables to sit, I ordered one.  There was a dodgy looking bench which was in blazing sunshine and so I sat there and wolfed down my waffle – which was quite good.

Starting point of our tour

I walked up to a place called ‘District Coffee House’, which was your typical local coffee shop with locals comfortably entrenched.  The décor was eclectic and I stayed for a drink before going to “Basque District” for a “Historic Downtown Walking Tour” – not sure if “Historic” referred to the downtown or the tour!  I arrived outside the museum that I had visited yesterday and saw that a group had assembled around a lady who was going to be our tour guide.  It was a decent sized group and the lady encouraged us to stay hydrated since it was a hot day.  We started inside a courtyard of a house which was one of the examples of the housing that Basque immigrants lived in upon their arrival in Boise.  It was simple on the outside and though we couldn’t go inside, were told that it was comfortable.  Well, people were crammed in these housings though and life wasn’t all easy, as this community struggled to establish themselves in a foreign land.  However, they had their art and culture to sustain them and that was evident everywhere…I mean, even the sidewalks had poetry and music engrossed within tiles.

Looked like racquetball to me

We did go inside a building where the “games” were in progress and peeking through the window, we saw kids playing what looked like racquetball on a court.  It seems that this game is the most popular form of recreation for kids who hone their skills to compete in tournaments such as the one that was in progress.  We left the building and continued our trek into other areas of the city including some famous buildings such as the oldest standing structure and a “Fondue” restaurant which used to be a Firehouse and which still has a fireman’s pole running through the main hall.  The irony of having a fondue place in an old firehouse wasn’t lost on us.

The "stinky" alley of art

We had a nice set of visitors on the tour, including a gentleman who mentioned that he had lived in India for a period of time and spoke immaculate “Hindi” with me.  We walked past the government buildings as well as the ‘Capitol’ that I had visited yesterday and all the time our guide was feeding us tidbits of information about the city as well as encouraging us to visit the mountains a few miles away.  We had entered the main restaurant row where I had spent my evening and there was a street market in progress, along with other summer patio activities.  Our guide took us through something known as ‘Freak Alley Gallery’, which is an alley where artists come to express themselves via murals and paintings on the back walls of the businesses.  It reminded me of the “Gum Wall” in Seattle, though much less disgusting to look at.  While the art was extraordinary, this was still an alley between restaurants, meaning we were passing by a lot of dumpsters which were stinking up the place.  If only that particular aspect could be figured out, this would be a fantastic destination.

Basque restaurant

We were running overtime and since I had a packed schedule for the afternoon, I bid the guide and our group a farewell and left the tour.  Our guide had recommended a Basque restaurant named ‘Bar Gernika’ for lunch and even told me what to order.  It looked like a “Dive Bar”, but had a friendly person behind the bar, which wasn’t surprising since these people are known for their hospitality.  I ordered as instructed by our guide, which included “croquettas”, a must in every Basque meal.  This wasn’t on my list for lunch today, but it would have been a shame to pass up on trying a new cuisine.  I was glad to have come and after a brief halt, called an ‘Uber’ for my next stop.

The "Goddess Fest"

‘Boise Art Museum’ is located in a park and I could see some activity going on outside.  As I got my ticket for the museum I was told that photography was prohibited, with or without flash.  I really do not understand why the museums would enforce this policy, but I wasn’t going to argue.  The museum itself is not too big, but has a decent collection.  It did not take me that long to walk through it and upon coming out, I decided to check out the festivities in the park, which was called “Goddess Fest”.  It looked like a free spirited gathering which besides the tents of arts and crafts, included activities such as “Psychic Reading”. I even saw something to do with aura’s and souls!  But there was something peaceful about the place – including the folk music that was being performed.  No matter what your beliefs, perhaps the world does need these harmonious gatherings to spread joy and “every good thing” – their words.

The entrance to 'The Old Idaho Penitentiary'

This was in stark contrast to the next place I was visiting, something I never thought that I would do in a town such as this – ‘The Old Idaho Penitentiary’.  Opened in 1872, for over 100 years this was where the State sent its most hardened criminals.  Since its closure it has become a destination for tourists and came up as a recommended stop while in Boise.  Obviously it was on the outskirts of the town and the afternoon had gotten hot when I arrived there.  From the outside it looked like a crumbling fort and as I walked in through the gates into the courtyard, I saw that several buildings were in ruins.  I was given a map of the premises and besides the buildings housing the prisoners, there were other locations like the “galley”, “solitary confinement”, “maximum security block” and the “gallows”; which I was told was a popular spot.  Also popular today was the only air conditioned building on the site, which was hosting an exhibit on firearms.

Most of it was in ruins

I started by walking through the ruins before moving into some of the buildings, including one which had an exhibit on tattoos.  I guess this was where the prisoners came to get their art work done.  At the very back was “solitary confinement” and these were small rooms with barely enough space to even stretch out on the floor.  And speaking of floors, there wasn’t much there either.  I am sure the passage of time had eroded the tiles, but I suspect it wasn’t a very comfortable spot.  I ended up in the air conditioned building and saw that there really were a lot of firearms.  I am far from a gun enthusiast, but for those people, this place is a shrine.  If I had seen this exhibit elsewhere, say in a museum, I may have been impressed.  But over here, it just made me uneasy.

The creepy cell block

There had been a growing dread within me and entering the cell blocks did nothing to alleviate that.  Seeing those small cells over multiple levels was a bit disturbing, especially since outside each cell was a photograph of one of its inmates along with their crime and punishments.  Some of those inmates had been kids with their whole life thrown away because of one mistake, most likely due to poverty.  There were open cells where one could go in to “experience” the conditions, but there was no way I was going to do that.  The “maximum security” block was darker than the others and when I realized that I was the only person inside that building, I couldn’t leave fast enough.  But nothing filled me with more anxiety that the visit to the “gallows”.  On the wall were pictures of all of the men executed in that building along with their stories.  There was a “viewing room” for the family of the victims and the room where the actual hanging took place.  The exit to this building was down a flight of stairs and before exiting you saw the room where the trapdoor opened and the hanged man was lowered.  To know that barely a few feet away from where I stood a number of men had died, wasn’t something that I want to experience again.

Once is enough at this place

I was ready to leave this place, but I stopped over at the “women’s block” and similar to one housing the men, this also had photographs and stories of the women who had been there, couple of who once climbed over the tall prison wall by stacking chairs! There was also a sign encouraging prior "residents" to come forward with their story, their anonymity being respected. I bought myself a bottle of water from the “gift shop” and gulped it down, waiting for my ‘Uber’.  Never in all of my travels had I been so glad to get away from a place and as we drove away, it felt like a weight being lifted from my shoulders.  I do not believe in the paranormal or the spirits.  But there was something haunting about this place and when my driver mentioned that they do “Halloween” tours at night, I thought of no better place than this, even more than a made up “haunted house”. 

Now that's one way to relax

More than ever I was ready for a drink and I was dropped off in the downtown at a place called ‘Reef’.  This is a good old fashioned “Tiki Bar” and as such has a very relaxed ambiance, which was perfect.  There were some unique cocktails and after a couple, I felt better and proceeded to the place I had seen yesterday evening, called ‘Amsterdam Lounge’.  Well, the name sounds cool, but I was the only person in there and so unlike the earlier place the vibe was low.  Next, I stopped at the ‘Bar in Grove Hotel’ which was exactly what the names stated, a bar in a hotel lobby.  But the cocktail wasn’t that bad, though once again, it wasn't exactly a boisterous place.  In my search for good cocktail places, one of the names that had come up was ‘Capitol Bar’.  It was away from downtown, near the place I was going for dinner.  It had a “neighborhood bar” feel, with everyone knowing each other and though it was unlike the “speakeasy” bars that I prefer, I liked it.

Back room of 'State & Lemp'

I was going to a place called ‘State & Lemp’, which offered a multi-course tasting menu with wine pairings. Although it is a restaurant, it operated more as a “dining club”, with family style seating.  I arrived just as the first batch of diners was finishing and so was directed to the back room and handed a glass of wine as I waited.  Soon my fellow diners joined me in there as the noise level increased in that tiny room, till we were all directed to our table.  I was sharing mine with a couple and a gentleman who was from England and had a remarkable life story, which he told us over the next few courses and glasses of wine.  He had been fortunate in his career to retire young and then spent his life climbing mountains all over the work, including‘Everest’ which he claimed to have climbed 3 times.  Once would have been enough in my opinion, but what do I know.  He was now driving cross-country in an “RV” – which was in the restaurant parking lot – en route to Seattle to see his daughter.  It was a fun evening chatting with him and the couple and a very satisfying end to the day.

Start of the "Brunch Tour"

Next morning was my final one and after checking out of my room, I left my luggage at the front desk and walked over to a restaurant called ‘Saint Lawrence Gridiron’, the first stop of a “Walking Brunch Tour”.  For this first stop we would be sitting outside and our guide had arranged for a table for a dozen or so people.  I saw that one of the ladies was also on my walking tour yesterday and I learnt that she was visiting from Phoenix to write a travel piece for a magazine.  Others included a local couple who had a bunch of their friends visiting from other places, and it looked like a fun group.  We started with a brunch dish with a paired cocktail – yeah, it was that kind of a tour – and our guide said that the chef had come in on his day off just for this.  It was a good dish and we left after thanking him.

Inside 'Juniper'

Our guide was providing some insight about the food scene in Boise and we walked over to the place I had discovered by accident on my first evening, ‘Waffle Me Up’. We had the same waffle that I had tasted from their truck at the farmer’s market yesterday.  I did not mind that a bit and it also allowed me to try some of the sauces on offer by the ‘Boise Fry Company’.  The next stop was at another popular brunch spot called ‘Goldy’s Corner’, where we assembled in their bakery section.  I almost sank into my soft couch as we had a tasting of the “Breakfast Burrito” and another cocktail.  Our final food stop was at a restaurant called ‘Juniper’, another popular destination for food in Boise.  We had some unique “Pesto Scrambled Eggs”, along with an outstanding cocktail, which was a nice finish to this part of the tour. However, there was still a dessert stop.

Well, if they say so!

Prior to that our guide took us through the same artist’s alley that I had been through yesterday and people on this tour were fascinated by it all and were spending a lot of time in taking pictures and asking questions.  This was making me nervous since I had to go to my hotel to collect my bag and meet my scheduled ride to the airport.  While I could have just left, I did not want to miss out on the final treat, which was a Milkshake. Our guide had said that it would be one of the best ones that I would have had.  So, when we arrived at the stop called ‘Moon Café’, I asked the server to make mine “To Go” and as soon as I had it in hand, bid farewell to my fellow members and left.  The drink was indeed good and I had finished most of it before crossing a block. 

I arrived at the hotel and I need not have worried, since my ride was late.  At the airport it was fairly easy to get to my gate, though I would have a connection in Denver this time.  Boise had surprised me on many levels.  Firstly, it was nothing like the cities of the Pacific Northwest, especially with it's hot weather.  But more than that, it was a vibrant place, with food, drink and culture to rival any other major US city.  This would not be on top of any tourist’s destination – well unless you are from Basque region – but it should be.  I had just as much fun here as I would anywhere else, despite the visit to the penitentiary.  The surprises never end and I was glad to have found another place which I wouldn’t have, if not for this journey.  Idaho is definitely much more than potatoes and I look forward to visiting the Northern mountains next time.