7. Louisiana

Month: April 2015

Location: New Orleans & Gonzales

I was scheduled to attend a work related meeting in Gonzales, Louisiana and so combined that with a visit to New Orleans as a part of the program.  The meeting required us to be in Gonzales on Monday evening and so on Sunday morning I found myself on a flight headed to New Orleans.  As you approach from the air, the swamp surrounding the city is visible as far as the eye can see.  Somewhere in middle of that swamp is the town of Gonzales.  But that can wait.  First there was a day to be spent in the city of ‘Mardi Gras’.

The model of New Orleans downtown

I had been to New Orleans years ago with my buddies but that had literally been an overnight sprint.  Well, so was this but I had a chance to plan a couple of activities during my stay.  I took a cab to my hotel and as one approaches the downtown, passing by the ‘Superdome’, the historic architecture is evident.  The hotel itself was quite charming and in the center of the lobby was a scaled model of the entire downtown with the streets and buildings laid out.  As is my usual practice, I asked at the front desk where I should go for brunch and the quick answer was, ‘Ruby Slipper’.

After a customary wrong turn I arrived at the café which was typical of something that one would find in a European city – open spaces, high ceilings with fans and lots of natural light on tiles.  I ordered myself a good old fashioned southern breakfast topped off by a glass of ‘Bloody Mary’.  The barman was a friendly chap and as I was about to leave, uttered the words which I have waited for a long time to hear – “Do you want another one to go?”  As much as I would have liked to respect the local customs, I declined and set about to explore the city.  I walked down the historic ‘Canal Street’ down to the waterfront and there was some sort of music festival going on over there.  I walked about for a bit and then headed to my first destination, ‘St. Louis Cathedral’.

'Mardi Gras' in all its splendor

I went inside and while is nowhere close in splendor to ‘Cathedral Basilica’, which I had visited last month, it is a charming place nevertheless.  I lighted my candles just as they announced closing time, meaning that I had to leave soon.  I didn’t have to travel far, since right next door was a building that I found interesting – ‘Louisiana State Museum’.  I asked the attendant if they were closing soon and was told that I had about an hour.  The museum was just two floors but each had a distinct New Orleans theme.  The first floor was a look back at one of the darkest hours in the cities recent past, ‘Hurricane Katrina’.  The exhibit took the visitor through the days before the hurricane hit the city, leading up to the actual tragedy, followed by the aftermath.  But it wasn’t just that.  It was also a story of the triumph of human spirit and how the city recovered through this to rediscover its groove.  If the downstairs was a bit solemn, the upstairs was an absolute party, with an entire floor dedicated to the festival of ‘Mardi Gras’.  With elaborate costumes and other paraphernalia on display, the place is exactly what you expect New Orleans to be.  As much as I would have liked to have spent more time there, the museum was about to close and I had places to be.  Dark tales of ghosts and spirits awaited me.

One of the recommendations when it comes to doing activities in New Orleans is walking through the historic ‘French Quarter’.  And nothing says a walking tour like ‘5-in-1 Ghost Tour’ complete with “Voodoo”, “Witchcraft” and “Werewolves”.  Furthermore, when the said tour is at twilight, sign me up.  I was supposed to meet the group at a place called ‘Reverend Zombie’s Voodoo Shop’, well because, why not have that as a starting point for such a tour.  The shop – which is a famous landmark in the city - is unlike anything I have ever seen.  Every nook and corner of the place had interesting tidbits and items and I could have spent an entire day there and still stay interested.  But the one thing that caught my eye was a sign that said “Fortune Teller”.  I learned that there was a gentleman who reads palms and since I was in New Orleans and in a shop such as this one, I signed up for an appointment the next morning.

Only in New Orleans

I found my tour group and checked-in.  There was still some time to go and they asked if I would like to carry a beverage with me on the tour.  Once again, I love this city!  I went to an adjoining bar and ordered the most famous cocktail on ‘Bourbon Street’, a “Hurricane”.  The barman saw my tour sticker and said that I was entitled to a second free drink because they had an arrangement with the tour operator.  I said to him that I was by myself and so he asked if I wanted him to “make me a double”, words to which I found myself saying “Yes”.  And so he did, handing me the party cup and saying that I shouldn’t drink it too fast.  You know it’s a stiff drink when the guy making it tells you that.  Whatever his advice, I was done with that before the tour commenced.

For the next couple of hours we walked about the area and were all entertained with stories of haunted hotels, gruesome killings, demon dogs, cannibals and all things scary.  Plus I learned how “Voodoo” is akin to a religion and how there are actual “Vampire Societies” in existence.  After the tour was done, I walked back through the ‘French Quarter’ to get to my hotel but was stopping frequently to visit the chic boutiques and other shops that can be found on every corner.  This to me is the real treasure of this neighborhood rather than the bars.  For dinner I was on my way to a place called the ‘Grill Room at Windsor Court Hotel’, which was supposed to have a good “Chef’s Tasting Menu”.  The hotel itself is fantastic and looks steeped in luxury with grand exteriors, marble flooring and lush carpets.  The restaurant décor was perfect, with its lighting and the view of the courtyard below.  Plus it was raining outside, which is an ideal scenario in a setting like this.  The dinner went well and afterwards being back at the hotel, I reflected on a day well spent.

The famous 'Cafe Du Monde'

The next morning I was headed to the famous ‘Café Du Monde’ to have its famous coffee, though they are also known for their ‘Beignets’.  Now, while the rest of the world loves this concoction, the one time I had ‘Beignets’ during my previous visit, I had found them to be carriers for massive amounts of powdered sugar.  I waited in the long line to get a table and to the surprise of the server, just ordered a cup of coffee.  The café itself has a semi-outdoor open feel to it with tables that are lined up right next to each other.  Just as I finished my coffee, the heavens opened and for the next 30 minutes it was me dodging in an out of shops, most of which were quite interesting.  I had brunch reservations at a place called ’Court of Two Sisters’ and not just any brunch, but a New Orleans style buffet with jazz music in the background.  As I feasted on – amongst other things – creole seafood omelet, I watched a grandfather dance with a little toddler girl with the jazz musicians joyfully playing them on.  There was one last thing to do before meeting my colleagues for a trip to Gonzales.

I had made an appointment to have my fortune read at ‘Reverend Zombie’s Voodoo Shop’ and that’s where I was headed.  I came there and waited while the person who was going to be my “fortune teller” prepared himself.  Just earlier he had been outside chatting with the rest of the staff and perhaps this was just a way to enter into whatever spiritual plane he needs to go to.  I went inside and we started with a palm reading.  He was using a pen to draw lines on my palm and by the time he was done, my palm had more lines than an architectural design.  During my time there I learned that I was on my 9^th life and in at least 2 of my previous lives I had been a “public figure”. In fact, in my previous life I was “the man of the people”.  He then went on to say that there was some sort of “déjà vu” manifesting itself in my life and I should try some meditation and just “chillax”.  Oh and I also need to ask for my “soul-piece” back from someone. He then laid out the “Tarot cards” and I picked “The Hermit”, “10 of Cups inverted”, “6 of swords” and finally “The Devil”.  There was something about not caring about material possessions, meeting someone special and travelling.  Well, that and the “Devil” of course! 

On a Mississippi barge

With this, the vacation part of my trip was over and it was time to get to Gonzales.  I went back to the hotel to pick up my bag and take a cab to the airport.  One of my colleagues was already there with a car and he picked up along with one more person.  We then rode through the swamp for almost an hour to get to Gonzales, where the biggest attraction is the Outlet Mall.  I was here as a part of my Company’s “Cultural Advisory Board” and we were visiting our ‘River Operations’ office in Convent, which is another 30 minutes from Gonzales.  The next day, after a round of meetings, we got to ride in our boats on the Mississippi and go on our barges that transport coal and other commodities up river.  Before that was a session learning to wear the life jackets and also what to do if overboard, including a move where we put our hands around our throat as if chocking oneself!  It was a good day, as was the next one, not to mention the grand southern food we were served for lunch.  The day of our departure was a long car ride back to the New Orleans airport but it had been a great visit.  I had been in the city for a little over 24 hours but had managed to cover a lot of ground.  Onword to the next stop on the journey.

6. Missouri

Month: March 2015

Location: Saint Louis

There was a time when I had thought that I would end up in St. Louis prior to moving to Chicago.  Despite the proximity, I had never visited the city and so made it a destination for this month.  I was going to be in the city for just one night, arriving on Saturday morning and leaving Sunday evening, meaning that I should have planned everything in detail so as not to miss out.  I of course, did nothing.  All I knew was the name of the Hotel that I would be staying in.  I had seen online that there was a train that would take me from the airport to downtown and so the first order of business was to find the said train.  There were signs which took me from the terminal and through a parking garage to the train station…which was really a platform adjacent to the garage.  The first thing I did when I arrived there was to look for a ticket dispensing kiosk and since I didn’t locate one, assumed that one could buy a ticket on the train which had just arrived.  As soon as the train was underway, I read a sign that said “Valid Ticket required for boarding the train”.  Well then, 10 minutes in and I had already broken the law!

'The Gateway Arch'

I was nervous throughout the train ride, especially when some folks looking like officials got on board.  I mentioned to my fellow passengers that I was unaware of the fact that the machine was on the platform – apparently hidden behind a column – and I would just have to plead my case if someone caught me.  They sympathized saying that there were many who traveled without buying a ticket and wished me luck.  After living dangerously for 40 minutes, I arrived at my stop and literally raced out to the streets before anyone could approach me.  I set off in the direction of the hotel and it’s always interesting for me to come from the crowded streets of downtown Chicago to almost vacant downtown of another city.  My hotel was on the banks of the Mississippi, meaning the grand ‘Gateway Arch’ – the cornerstone of the city – came into to view soon.  It really is a fantastic monument and pictures and TV do not do it justice.

I checked in and my first question to the ‘Concierge’ was, “Where do I go to eat?”  The answer in this case was instantaneous – ‘Rooster Café’.  I walked over to the place and I could see why.  It was packed to the seams and after putting my name down for a table, I ordered myself one of the House specialties, a ‘Bloody Mary’.  After getting a table, the server recommended another drink – something ‘Sunrise’ or ‘Sunset’, but it came with ‘Sparkling Wine’ and in a brilliant color.  I also ordered a dish called the “Rooster Slinger” which had in it every good thing that makes brunch special.  I asked the server, whose name was Rachel, what I should do for the rest of the day and she recommended the ‘Botanical Gardens’.  But before that, there was one other place to go to, the magnificent ‘Cathedral Basilica’. 

The magnificent 'Cathedral Basilica' 

One of my favorite places in the world is New York’s ‘Cathedral of St. John’s the Divine’ and it is incredible.  ‘Cathedral Basilica’, while not as big as that one, is quite impressive in itself.  The time I spent in the Cathedral this afternoon was as expected, serene, and I left after lighting some candles and picking up souvenirs.  I took a cab to my next destination, which was ‘Missouri Botanical Garden’.  After getting a coffee in the Café, I entered the gardens and for the next couple of hours explored the place, walking alongside small ponds and waterfalls and at one place, navigating through a maze.  Being the 1^st week of spring, the garden wasn’t in its full bloom yet, but it was still a place worth visiting.  There was an ‘Orchid’ exhibit and I stopped to see that; remembering a photography assignment that I had done in a similar exhibit a lifetime ago.  I decided to take a break for an hour or so and made my way back to the hotel to recharge.

An evening on 'Washington Street'

In the early evening I came down to the lobby and once again, asked the ‘Concierge’ where I should go for the evening.  The recommendation was to go down ‘Washington Street’ – a few blocks away – as that was where the folks usually came out on Saturday evening.  My first stop was at a place called “Robust Wine Bar’, a nice and relaxed place.  I sat at the bar with a flight of ‘Sparkling Wine’ and 'Cheese Plate' and chatted with the gentleman over there about the city and the wine.  Then I set off down the street and past dozens of restaurants and bars along it, thinking about where to go next.  It was a lovely evening and I found myself getting charmed by the city.  I peeked inside a window and saw a good looking bar inside ‘Renaissance Hotel’ and so went in for a cocktail.  I looked around me and saw an interesting sight.  Dozens of people were dressed like they had stepped out of Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’ video.  Either there was some sort of ‘Zombie/Horror’ convention in town or I was severely under dressed!  

Even better at night

After that I went over to another wine bar called ‘Copia’ for dinner and a fishbowl sized cocktail, after which I was ready for the hotel.  The walk back was lovely, since in the background was the ‘Arch’, beautifully lit and always the dominating presence.  I saw people riding in carriages which looked like set pieces from ‘Cinderella’ and a coffee shop – which was closed – but advertised St. Louis’s best ‘Gooey Butter Cake’, whatever that meant.  I made a mental note of looking that up and if possible coming here to try it out in the morning.

Carriage seats inside the 'Arch'

The next morning I had tickets to go up the ‘Arch’ but I did want to try the ‘Butter Cake’.  So I walked up to the self-proclaimed champions of that dessert - ‘Park Avenue Coffee’ - to try it out for myself.  Now, while it is certainly a delicious concoction, it is also extremely dense and like the “Elvish Lembas Bread”, I was satisfied after a few bites.  I then made my way to the ‘Courthouse’ to pick up my tickets for the ‘Arch’.  As I approached the monument, its grand scale became evident.  I must admit that there was a sense of vertigo as I stood under the ‘Arch’ and looked skyward.  I went inside the building at the base and stood in line with some of the other tourists to get inside the small trolley that takes people up to the apex.  And when I say small, I mean really really tiny.  It is nothing more than a box with 5 seats, which rises laterally through the sides of the ‘Arch’.  A young couple was supposed to ride in my carriage but at the last minute the lady saw the claustrophobic interior and burst into tears.  She said that there was no way that she wanted to be in there and urged her companion to go up with us and he did.  Once on top the view was spectacular but the observation deck itself was a narrow corridor, which due to the curvature, presented an unsure footing.  But it did give us a good look at the city and the Mississippi.

I came down and walked about a bit in the fields and went back to the ‘Courthouse’ to take a look at some of the exhibits in that building.  It was close to lunch time and I picked up my bag at the hotel and headed back to ‘Rooster Café’.  If there’s one thing I do during my travels, it’s that when I find a good place to eat, I extract maximum out of it.  I found myself at the same table and Rachel recognized me from the previous day.  This time she recommended that I try the ‘Crepes’ for which they are known, and then visit the ‘Saint Louis Science Center’ before my flight in the evening.  I spent the afternoon in the museum, which is very unique in the way it uses “hands-on” technique to educate kids and adults alike on scientific principles. 

I took a cab to the airport after a short but enjoyable visit.  I had been in Saint Louis for just over a day, but that had been enough for me to appreciate the city, which is more than just the 'Gateway Arch'.  It had been another successful stop on the ‘51/51’ tour.