45. Wisconsin

Month: June 2018

Location: Madison

When I first mapped out the various states into zones, I had labeled “Zone 1: Driving Distance”.  This included places such as all the neighboring states of Illinois, and even places such as Ohio and Michigan.  After 44 visits, I was yet to drive anywhere, having taken the train once and flown everywhere else.  When it came to Wisconsin, I debated taking a train to Milwaukee, and spending a night there.  But then everyone told me how great Madison was and the only way to get there was by car.  So, with just a few states left, I would finally be driving to a State.

I got up early on a Saturday morning – well, early by my standards – and walked to “Enterprise” to pick up my car at 8 am.  There was lady in front of me and I heard her mention that she was headed to Wisconsin as well.  She then proceeded to regale them her reasons for going there and got into other details of her life, which all of us could have done without.  Perhaps impressed by my patience, or because they realized that I too was going to Wisconsin - but without the story - they upgraded me to a “SUV”, and with a built-in “GPS”.  With the address entered, I set of on a journey that would take approximately 2 hours.

The always present 'Capitol'

As far as drives go, expressways in Illinois make “New Jersey Turnpike” look like a “National Park”.  So, the route to Madison wasn’t exactly making me stop to take pictures.  Plus, most of the drive in Wisconsin was through roads under construction, meaning lower speed limits.  But I finally made it and the first view of Madison is the ‘Capitol’.  As I would soon discover, this building was literally the center of the city, with all streets radiating out like spokes.  It was positioned at 45 degrees to the normal and located on a narrow strip of land between 2 lakes. There were circular streets around the building where all the restaurants and bars were located, making this the place to be at in the evening.

Busy Saturday on the streets

There was some traffic getting into the downtown and after a few turns, I found myself entering the garage of ‘The Madison Concourse Hotel and Governor’s Club’.  The lobby was buzzing and the lady at the reception mentioned that there was some “Marathon” being run the next day.  I dropped off my things and set off to get some brunch.  As soon as I emerged from the hotel, just around the corner was the imposing ‘Capitol’ which truly dominates the skyline.  The narrow streets around it were crowded and it was a beautiful day to be outside.  I walked to ‘Bassett Street Brunch Club’, which turned out to be a bright, popular spot.  There were people waiting for a table and it would have been a 30-minute wait for me, unless I could snag a spot at the bar.  That was full as well, and I saw a lady with a bag on a stool.  I assumed her companion was in the washroom, but later I learned that she was just too lazy to bend down for her bag and so took up 2 seats on a whim.  Well, shame on me for not asking.  After 10 or so minutes, I found a spot and after some terrible coffee but decent food, I set off for the afternoon.

Great view from the art museum

It was a busy time with the narrow streets crowded as I got closer towards the city center.  I was going to ‘Madison Museum of Contemporary Art’, a very modern looking glass building at the corner of a 6-street intersection.  It was a 3-floor building with some nice galleries, but for me the most impressive part was the edge of the building that was almost triangular like a ship’s “bow”.  With the building having a glass exterior, one could get a nice view of the busy streets below.  One of the more interesting rooms had some colorful boards and strings on the floor with a painting of a sidewalk at the end.  Visitors were encouraged to place the paraphernalia in any pattern that they chose in front of the painting.  Either that or the room needed cleaning!  I guess the marketing worked since a family with kids was playing with the stuff in there.

Inside the 'Wisconsin Historical Museum'

Nearby was ‘Wisconsin Historical Museum’ and the walk there took me past street side vendors operating through tents and people enjoying this fine Saturday afternoon.  The museum was across the ‘Capitol’ and a relatively simple building when compared to the one I was coming from.  It was a multi-floor museum celebrating Wisconsin’s heritage.  This included exhibits on the food industry – of course – archaeological history, political history and its emergence from once being a “frontier” into an industrial age.  There were some models of early automobiles – always a popular ploy with kids – and overall it was a decent museum.  Plus, it had good views of the ‘Capitol’, though I suspect it was hard to avoid that in any building in this area.

View from the "Observation Deck"

There was 2 pm tour of the ‘Capitol’ that I wanted to attend, and I arrived with 20 minutes to spare.  The place was crowded and the person at the desk told me that there were some other tour groups, including one in French!  Well, I wasn’t going on that one, so I asked if there was anything to do while I waited.  The gentleman told me that I could take the elevator up to the “Observation Deck”.  Well, that would do just fine.  There was one flight of stairs after exiting the elevator and while it was not all the way to the top of the dome, it was high enough.  With water bodies on either side and long stretches of road on the other sides, it was a very decent view.  I walked around the “360 degree” viewing terrace and even tried to figure out where my next stop of the afternoon was located!

And inside the 'Capitol'

I came down just before the start of the tour and tried to locate the right group.  There were several people who would be joining me, and our guide told us to stay close to him.  As with other similar buildings that I have visited over the last few years, this one was extremely ornate, with it's design, materials and art.  Also, like my tours in other cities, this one covered the history of the building and took us to some of the meeting rooms as well as the main chambers of the “House” and the “Senate”.  Looking at some of the interiors, it is amazing to think that this is a functioning government building and not just some preserved historic display.  It got crowded in places where we ran into the other tour groups, but that did not take away from this tour, which was quite good.

Starting at the  'Avenue Club'

The tour ended just before 3 pm and I wasn’t planning on any other stops for the afternoon, well not any “tourist attractions” in any case.  I saw a charming coffee shop nearby and stopped to get some water, sitting by the window and watching people go about their business around the ‘Capitol’.  Then I set off on one of the long roads leading away from here, for a mile walk to my first bar of the evening.  There wasn’t much to see on the way, other than some sort of festival in a park.  There were some residential buildings and small cafes, but it was mostly a busy road with 2-way traffic.  After what seemed like a long time, I finally reached ‘Avenue Club and the Bubble Up Bar’.  At first glance of the dining room, I felt that the name sounded way fancier than the interior.  But there was another, cozier room, with a long bar, which I was sure would be quite popular at night.  Presently however, there was just another group besides me.

'Gib's' located inside a house

I like places that on the menu, show the picture of the actual glass which carries the drink, and this was one of them.  I must admit that sometimes it influences what I get.  I picked a drink which sounded good and while it was, there were several places on my list for this evening and so after a few sips, I left.  My next destination was about half a mile away and it took me through some desolate places, but eventually put me on a street which had several “artisanal” shops.  It was a complete contrast to where I had come from, as was the bar.  I had to look twice, but ‘Gib’s’, the place that I was going to, was located inside a house.  I have been to several restaurants in a house, but this was just a bar.  As I entered it felt as if I was walking through someone’s living room.  The bar counter itself had no seating arrangement, just a place behind which the bartender made the drinks, and which you then took to a couch or something.  I got a drink called “Boozy Cola” and sat by the window looking at this interesting setting, which was more like a coffee shop than a craft cocktail bar.

Seat next to the "microgreens" in 'Forequarter'

I stayed for a bit and the called a ride for my next destination, which was bit further away than I was prepared to walk.  On a street which looked residential, was a place called ‘Robin Room’. It described itself as a “neighborhood bar” and an “emporium of fine potables”.  The menu was small but included cocktails, which besides being their own creation, also elevated classic drinks.  I was the only person there and after a while, set off for the next spot which was just down the street.  It was called “Forequarter” – perhaps because it was located on “708 ¼ E. Johnson Street”.  Unlike the earlier place, this was also a restaurant and apparently a good one at that.  They even had “microgreens” growing in boxes next to me, and which chefs used in their dishes.  I ordered an interestingly titled drink called “I said Brandy” and it was quite good.  The staff here was very friendly, and I had a good time discussing my travel with them.  I apologized to the bartender that I would not be finishing my drink since I had several other places to visit and she gave me her thoughts on some of them.  So far this evening, this had been my favorite stop.

Lovely evening in downtown Madison

I was going back towards the main part of downtown – read, near the “Capitol square” – and very soon the sight of the building was upon me.  On one of the narrow streets was ‘Merchant Madison’, which looked like a sparsely populated “sports bar” and which made mediocre drinks.  Not finishing the cocktail was not a problem here.  Nearby was another place called ‘Graft’ and this one was a busy restaurant with a bright décor.  The bar area was quite good, and I was lucky to get a seat.  With all the food around me, I ordered a snack and what turned out to be a good drink, “Elder Fashioned”.  I enjoyed my time here, and based on the noise level, so did the other folks around me.

Another great view of the 'Capitol'

It was a beautiful evening when I walked towards ‘Cask & Ale’, which was located on the busy “State Street”, with all its shops.  This one looked like a tiny “dive bar”, with a focus on Whiskey.  Well, that suited me fine and I sat there amongst other locals, who have probably spilled a lot of drinks on the bar over the years.  My final stop before dinner was supposed to be a place called ‘Heritage Tavern’, but as I walked past it, a sign said that they were closed for a “Private Event”, though nothing much was happening inside.

But this one was better

Since I had time, I went to the nearby ‘AC Hotel’, on the 10^th floor of which, was ‘Eno Vino Downtown’.  It was nice bar and I had a spectacular view of the dome of the ‘Capitol’ behind several amber colored bottles.  It wasn’t a bad way to wait for my dinner reservation.  That was in a restaurant called ‘L’Etoile’.  It was a “fine dining” restaurant and for being in a small market, they acquitted themselves very well.  I enjoyed my time there, including chatting with the staff.  At the end I asked for directions to my hotel and walked back around the beautifully lit ‘Capitol’.  Despite my busy evening, I hadn’t had enough, so I stopped at the hotel bar called ‘The Bar’ for a nightcap before finally calling it a day.

The beautiful 'Olbrich Botanical Gardens'

The marathon was over by the time I went to the lobby for check-out, and the place was busy, with some of the participants now posing for pictures.  I was going to ‘Olbrich Botanical Gardens’ and even though I had a car, I wanted to avoid having to find parking in downtown later in the day.  So, I left it at the hotel and took a ride to the gardens.  And I am glad that I did so, because despite the location of the gardens on the map, the entrance was at the very end and it took longer than I expected to get there.  It was a beautiful day for a stroll and this place was as good as any of the other gardens that I have visited.  Besides the lawns, the paths, the ponds and the inevitable waterfall, there was a pavilion that seemed to have been inspired by east Asia.  It was a nice way to spend the morning and now I was ready for some brunch.

The campus of the 'University of Wisconsin'

I took a car back to downtown and on one of the streets near the ‘Capitol’ was a place called ‘Marigold Kitchen’.  It looked to be quite popular with the locals and after devouring a breakfast sandwich, I was ready for the afternoon.  I was going to ‘Chazen Museum of Art’ and I decided to walk the mile to the place.  Besides being the capital of the state, Madison is a famous “college town”, being the home of ‘University of Wisconsin’.  The museum was on the campus of the university and as I got closer, I could see the students going about their Sunday chores as well as the typical campus “take-out” food places.  I reached the museum which was deceptively larger than appeared from the outside.  The galleries were big and there were a lot of them.  Plus, the museum extended to an adjoining wing, with a fantastic view of the walkaway lined with University buildings and leading up to the lake.

Ice Cream by the lake

I enjoyed my time in here and the final thing on my agenda for this visit was to see more of the campus.  It was a warm afternoon and all the students had decided that the lake was the place to be.  People were in the water, on the boats, or just soaking in the sun on the deck.  There was a “Student Union” and I entered in to see a food court and immediately spotted a line at the ice cream counter.  It seemed like a perfect day for that and armed with a scoop, I went outside on the ‘Memorial Union Terrace’ and found a table and chair to enjoy the view and of course my ice cream.  However, it was quite hot and after a while I sought refuge inside the building.  There was more to it than just the food area and I found one large hall where there was a big crowd watching a “World Cup Soccer” game between Poland and Columbia.  There were supporters on both sides, meaning the decibel level inside the room fluctuated depending on the flow of the game.  It had been a long time since I had experienced something like this and I had forgotten how much fun it is to watch sports in such a setting.

Sunday by the water

I stayed in there and watched the game for a while and then continued my exploration of the campus, which took me up a hill, with a central lawn and buildings on either side.  It was your typical college campus and with all the students either watching the game or by the lake, it was quite empty.  It was nice view of the campus from up there and I wondered if students could laze on that lawn.  I walked through the campus a bit more and then decided to head back.  I was planning to call a ride and the challenge was to find a spot that I could enter on my phone.  I returned back to the ‘Memorial Union Terrace’ and was soon picked up and on my way to the hotel.  I retrieved my bag and my car from the garage and left for my ride back to Chicago, driving past the imposing ‘Capitol’ for the last time. 

Final look at the campus

With the traffic, it took me as much time to get to the outskirts of Chicago as to get into the city.  But that was a small inconvenience in what had been a very charming trip.  It was almost like a tale of 2 cities, with last night being an exploration of the “night life” and today showcasing Madison as a premier “college town”.  I was glad to have taken this drive and not settling for the easy train trip to Milwaukee.  Plus, it allowed me to justify the label of “Driving Distance”.

44. South Dakota – Part 2

Month: May 2018

Location: Rapid City, Mount Rushmore National Memorial and Badlands National Park

It was a nice morning as I left for ‘Mount Rushmore National Memorial’, but I was first stopping at a place called ‘Colonial House Restaurant and Bar’.  It was quite busy, though I was able to get a table and looking at the menu, I noticed some unique items.  I ordered something called “Cabin Country Adobe Bowl”, which is what I suppose the locals call the “breakfast skillets”.  Like the spot I had visited yesterday, the staff was very friendly and soon I was on my way.  I was headed into the “Black Hills” and as with the drive yesterday, the landscape was beautiful.  The signs kept announcing that I was on track and getting closer, though there was no sign of the memorial.  Then I went around a bend and there it was, the 4 “faces” carved into the mountain.  Even though I had seen this in pictures and knew what was coming, seeing it for the first time is a special feeling.

The path towards the viewing area

Of all the public attractions that I have visited, I must say that this one had some of the easiest accessibility, with multiple entry lanes, ample garage parking and a short walk to get to the actual place that you have come to visit.  I parked my car and as I went along the paved path – which was spectacular with stone entrances – I could see the mountain in front of me.  That was the beauty and the simplicity of the design here, the object that you have come to see is always in full view and in front of you.  Very often you go somewhere, and must then search for the attraction.  Not here.  The path was called “Avenue of Flags”, since it was lined with US State and Territories flags, and it led up to “Grand Viewing Terrace”.  This presented visitors with an outstanding view.  Below the terrace was an “Amphitheater”, which hosted night time shows with lights shining on the faces on the mountain, accompanied by music and commentary.  While I would not be doing that, I could imagine it being a fantastic experience.

There it was, my reason for coming!

There were steps leading down to the “Visitor’s Center”, which was also a museum telling the story of how this memorial came to be.  There was a short film which talked about the entire project from conception to creation, including selection of the site, the architect, the 4 Presidents who would be honored and the actual process.  I learned about the sculptor Gutzon Borglum, who considered this the crowning achievement of his career and started construction in 1927.  It took longer than anticipated and upon his death in 1941, his son took the project to completion.  What I found most fascinating was the level of engineering that was required, with workers using dynamite and having to do measurements while hanging down the cliff.  The ingenuity with which they overcame all these obstacles and delivered what is one of the great landmarks of the world is simply amazing.  For example, they created small 1/12^th scale models of the head and used those measurements to scale the actual sculptures on the mountain.

On the "Presidential Trail"

I came outside and there was something called the “Presidential Trail”, that took the visitors to the base of the mountain for a closer look.  The path coming down the other side was closed, which was a shame, since it would have taken the visitors to “Sculptor’s Studio” where Borglum created the models that were eventually transferred to the mountain.  I set off on the trail and it was a beautiful day to do that.  There was walkway and steps to take us to the base of the mountain and at one stage I saw a line of people waiting to enter some sort of a crevasse between rocks.  When I did so, I saw that nestled between the rocks at the top was a narrow opening that put one right underneath Washington’s face.  I continued as far as I could and standing right below the 4 heads, will be one of the highlights of my travels over the last few years.  And to think I first saw this in a movie.

The beautiful sights on the "Needles Highway"

I came back and stopped for some information on driving along the “Needles Highway”.  This was a part of the adjoining ‘Custer State Park’ and supposedly, one of the great scenic drives.  It was a winding road, 14 miles and would loop me back to the memorial in approximately 60 to 90 minutes.  Shortly after entering the park, the road went through a narrow opening in giant granite spires, so much so that cars on either side had to wait for other to pass.  Plus, this was an outstanding spot to pull over and take pictures.  This was going to be one of those drives, but I wasn’t complaining.  It was one of the most beautiful stretches of road that I have been on, with its sharp turns and bridges and tunnels.  At one stage I pulled over and walked a bit on a trail.  Plus, on the way back, there were spots from where you could see ‘Mount Rushmore’ in the distance.  But nothing compared to the rolling meadows and lush green fields which continued to mystify me. I loved every minute of this ride.

The slightly underwhelming 'Journey Museum'

I drove back into town and just across my hotel was ‘The Journey Museum and Learning Center’, which was this town’s “Natural Science Museum”.  From the outside the building looked promising, with modern architecture, but it was a different story inside.  I mean, for Rapid City it was decent I suppose, focusing on the regions geology and history.  It did not take me long to walk through the couple of galleries and despite my ticket allowing me entry tomorrow as well, I knew I wouldn’t be back.  It took me even less time to get to my hotel, where I settled down for a bit before heading out for the evening.

Another foray into town

I walked back into town and on the side street where I had found the ice cream place, was a pub called ‘Wobbly Bobby’.  I was out even faster when I saw that service was non-existent and vibe was like a funeral home.  I continued to a place called (kōl), and I had no idea why the name was titled the way it was.  There were a couple of other patrons at the long bar as I took my seat.  These folks were known for their “coal fired pizza”, and people had started gathering for dinner.  I ordered a drink called “Strawberry Fields”, which was pink and delicious.  Earlier today I had sent a text to ‘Blind Lion’ and received a similar favorable response with the same passcode and password.  During my travels, it has been rare for me to return to a place 2 days in a row, but Rapid City wasn’t exactly bustling with choices for cocktails.

A drink before 'Blind Lion'

I arrived back at the alley and through the door with the code, into the establishment.  I sat at the bar watching Austin and Cody – also the owner – practice their craft.  Particularly interesting was their hacking at the ice to get to a single piece in a glass.  It was scary to see them hold the ice in one hand and go furiously at it with a pick, especially since there was a machine in the back that made perfect spheres of ice.  Plus, I was getting showered with the shards in the front row.  I had seen a green colored drink yesterday, “Asian Jalapeno Daiquiri” and I started with that.  Austin showed me some of the tinctures he had been developing, including one where he had soaked peppers for a month.  He gave me a taste and yeah, it was hot.  Next up was the drink I had seen being made plenty of times yesterday, “Cotton Candy Bee’s Knees”.  Their 3^rd colleague Jeremy oversaw the machine making the candy and he was being kept busy.

The now familiar "secret" entrance

There were a few regulars, including some from last night, but the place wasn’t exactly buzzing for a Saturday evening.  I am all for gimmicks to get into a “speakeasy”, and this one had several.  But that works when you are trying to limit the crowd in a city like Chicago, not when you are running half full in a small town.  But I wasn’t complaining since I got to chat with Austin and for my final drink he made me something called “The Inca with Cognac”.  It was a rich whiskey drink which I said should be had in front of a fireplace while wearing a luxurious smoking jacket and a dog on a rug.  I added that one should be reading “Charles Dickens” while doing this and Austin said that I may have just renamed the drink to “The Dickens”.  It was a fun evening and I asked if they were open tomorrow.  He said that it was “Industry Night”, for those in the business and they threw their doors open, meaning I could just come in without need for a text or passcode.  I said that I would take him up on that.

Getting some "craft beer" at 'Independent Ale House'

A few blocks away was a place called ‘Hotel Alex Johnson’, which has a rooftop bar called ‘Vertex Sky Bar’.  I arrived at the hotel and asked how to get there, and they said that it was only for the residents and I could buy a “day pass” for $50.  Once again, this is Rapid City, not Chicago!  I told them I would pass and instead went to the hotels other bar, ‘Paddy O’Neill’s Irish Pub & Grill’.  This was as “Irish” as it got, and it was quite clear that ordering a cocktail would probably get me kicked off.  So, I got a “Irish Car Bomb” and then proceeded to the next stop, ‘Independent Ale House’.  This was a beer haven with all options listed on a TV screen.  That seemed to be the norm over here, with other places doing the same.  I got a beer that was brilliantly titled, “Tallgrass German Chocolate Cake Oatmeal”, which was good, though I would have preferred the real cake.  Dinner was close by in a place called ‘Delmonico Grill’, which I suppose passed off as the town’s “fine dining steakhouse”.  The checked the boxes with a wine selection and pricy steaks.  It was a decent end to the day and rather than walking back today, I called a ride back to my hotel.  Tomorrow, I was going for a long drive.

"Sunday Brunch" at 'Minerva's Resturant'

It was sunny day and perfect for being outdoors.  I was going to ‘Badlands National Park’, which over over an hour away from Rapid City.  But first, there was a small matter of brunch.  I was going to a place called ‘Minerva’s Restaurant & Bar’ and even though I was following the directions on my phone, I entered a parking lot which looked more suited for illicit deals than a restaurant.  I drove around to the back and across another parking lot to where the restaurant was possibly located.  Fortunately, this was indeed the place, though it wasn’t anywhere close to where the map indicated.  They were having a “Sunday Brunch Buffet”, meaning the worst of humanity was on display.  There is something about a buffet that brings about a primal nature amongst everyone, as they climb over each other to get to the food which isn’t going anywhere!  The place looked a bit jaded and the food was average, but I had acquired my fuel for the day and was ready to get underway.

My first look at the wonders of 'Badlands National Park'

When I had first heard about ‘Badlands National Park’, I imagined it to be a desolate place with ashen fields where nothing grew; kind of like “Mordor”.  That had been years ago, and even now I had limited knowledge of the place, though I had seen pictures which looked like an alien landscape.  It was a straight forward route to get there and the freeway was also quite isolated.  It also had a speed limit of 80 miles per hour.  Now, whenever I have rented cars, I haven’t bothered much about the size, since it was only for me.  That was until now.  I was in a “Compact” car and I soon realized that those do not do so well at these speeds, especially when heavy machinery is passing by you.  I gripped the wheel tightly as I felt the car shake around me and after an hour of harrowing driving, arrived at a road which led to one of the entrances to the park.  But I was continuing another 20 miles to the second entrance and as I took it, nothing around me resembled anything like a park.  And then I saw it.

What was this place?

I saw some cars parked on the side of the road and what appeared to be a viewing platform.  Even before getting out, I could tell this was a magnificent sight.  On my drive here, the landscape had been quite flat and green, with occasional rolling hills.  But now it was straw colored and it just fell in.  It was like I had reached the end of the earth and now there was a canyon with jagged hills.  It was difficult to get a sense of scale, on how deep this was because unlike the ‘Grand Canyon’, this did not have trails leading down or a river flowing through it.  It just existed.  I was feeling a bit dizzy as I took the narrow walkway to the end of the viewing platform and just marveled at the sight.  And I wasn’t even inside the park yet.

Some people were hiking on this

I was headed to the main “Visitor’s Center”, which was located quite deep inside the park.  This meant that even before getting there, I could stop and explore many of the parks trails.  I stopped at a parking lot which had entrances to 3 of those and started on the first one.  Just a few steps away, as I got away from the road, the landscape was just I had seen in the pictures, bizarrely alien.  Several hikers were braving the jagged terrain and going deep inside, well I suppose it was a trail, though I couldn’t see a clear path.  It was truly a surreal feeling being here, for this was by far one of the most extraordinary places that I have visited.  There were a couple of other trails originating from this lot and one of them had an outstanding view from a viewing platform.  The other was a 6-mile hike and I saw some people set off on that.

A look at the prairie

I got in my car and continued, and just before the visitor’s center, came across another trail leading up into a hill.  This on had a wooden walkway for part of the way and led up to a viewing area with fantastic view of the valley.  There were steps involved in going up and down and the sheer scale of the area was making me dizzy.  I did make it up to the end and returned to my car thoroughly exhausted.  I soon arrived at the visitor’s center, which like similar centers in other parks, doubled as a museum.  I was very keen on understanding what had happened here to create this spectacle of nature.  Apparently, this started about 80 million years ago, when this place was underneath an inland sea.  Over the years wind, rain and erosion led to the geology that we see today.

The incredible road through the park

There was a short film on the wildlife in the park including the “Prairie Dogs”.  This is also one of the few parks which is completely “open”, meaning visitors can go anywhere they please, if they respect the land and the animals.  I looked at the road to get me back and it lead through the heart of the park, meaning that at some stage I would be going through the cliffs to get to the side of the expressway.  If I wanted, I could take a dirt road to something called “Roberts Prairie Dog Town”.  However, that would have added considerable amount of time to my return journey and so I decided to exit the park at the first entrance that I seen this morning.  There would be other sights to see prior to getting there.

This could well have been another planet

I started my drive and once again, for a second day in a row, it was one of the most scenic routes that I have driven on.  However, unlike the lush green hills of yesterday, this was a path through these reddish-brown cliffs dividing the prairie.  This got especially beautiful during the crossing from south of the park to the north, as the road curved through the peaks.  There were other trails and viewing areas on the other side and especially interesting was one where I got out of the car and went between some rock formations and looking around me, there was no sign of the road, my car or any indication of which year I was in, or even which planet.  It reminded me of some of the scenes from “Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade” and if I had the time and company, I would have ventured further.  But I came back and after a few more stops to enjoy the view, got back on the expressway to Rapid City.  It was bit more confident ride back, having gotten used to the car’s handling.  I returned to the room and relaxed for an hour or so before setting out for the evening.

The doors were open today

Just like the last 2 evenings, I was going to ‘The Blind Lion’, though this time there was no need for any text message or passwords etc.  I walked into downtown and through the back entrance, and sure enough, the main door was open.  There wasn’t anyone in there, including Austin.  There was a young gentleman who introduced himself as Drake, and he mentioned that he was the “Heroic Hamster” in their password.  He said that the others usually let him practice his skill on Sunday’s and he started by making me an excellent reproduction of my favorite cocktail here, “The Colonel”.  We were chatting as Austin came in – wearing shorts since it was his day off.  This truly was a more relaxed evening than last 2 and for the next hour, it was like old friends in a bar.  We had a fantastic time, exchanging stories, including some of Austin’s “exploits” with the ladies.  Soon one of the regular ladies came in and she had made a homemade “Tiramisu” for the boys, leftovers of which were in the refrigerator.  The fact that she went and got it out herself, showed how familiar everyone is over here and I was now a part of the squad.  Soon we were joined by a rambunctious gentleman who was a chef somewhere and he regaled us with stories as well.  It was one of the best evenings that I have had during my travels and I left my number with Austin, asking him to look me up if he was ever in Chicago.

Last dinner in Rapid City

With goodbyes said, it was time for dinner – I had in fact pushed it back by 30 minutes since I was having such a great time.  I was going to a place called ‘Tally’s Silver Spoon’ and it was the “trendiest” restaurant that I had seen in Rapid City.  With a lively ambience and a fantastic “Tasting Menu”, it was a perfect ending to my stay here.  Next morning, I checked out and drove to the ‘Millstone Family Restaurant’ for brunch before my flight.  I had started with a “family restaurant” and I was ending with one.  It was your typical diner and I sat at the countertop and ordered something that read better than it tasted.  But it was fine, and now it was time to leave.  I filled up gas on the way to the airport and after one last look at the beautiful landscape, returned the car and walked into the terminal.  South Dakota had surprised me; not least in its natural beauty.  From the lush green countryside to the bizarre but brilliant ‘Badlands National Park’.  Plus, I had fulfilled another one of my childhood fantasies, visiting ‘Mount Rushmore’.  Add the best bar experience that I have had and you have a visit that may end up in the “Top 10” list when I am done.

44. South Dakota – Part 1

Month: May 2018

Location: Rapid City, Mount Rushmore National Memorial and Badlands National Park

One of my favorite movie experiences has always been Alfred Hitchcock’s, “North By Northwest”.  The most iconic scene is of course, Cary Grant being chased by the “crop dusting” plane, but close behind is the climax on top of ‘Mount Rushmore’.  When I saw it for the first time, I was sure that it was an imaginary set and there were no giant-sized heads carved into a mountain.  Well, yes it was a set, but there is indeed a monument like that.  Then I thought that it would be in some of the more popular locations, such as California…perhaps next to the “Hollywood” sign.  The fact that it was in South Dakota of all places, surprised me.  So, when I had to pick a location to visit for this trip, it was a given that it would be Rapid City.  Then I debated going to Sioux Falls, but soon came to my senses.  Of course, I would want to visit the location of one of my favorite movies.  Plus, I could also take a day trip to ‘Badlands National Park’, since it was the long “Memorial Day Weekend”.

I would be in Rapid City for 3 nights and some research on places to visit – both in terms of sights as well as food & drinks – wasn’t much promising.  There were some highlights, but I would need to be creative in filling up my time.  One of the bars that came highly recommended was a place called ‘Blind Lion’ and getting into that was like infiltrating a ring of spies!  There was a passcode and a password as well as a secret location, all of which you would get via a text message, if you only knew the phone number.  What was this place?  A little bit of online sleuthing got me the phone number, though the text would need to be sent on the day of your proposed visit.

It was far more "greener" than I had expected

I took Friday off from work and hopped on a direct flight to Rapid City.  When I envisioned what South Dakota would look like, for some reason I equated it to an arid and dry region with brown patches.  As we approached the city from the air, I was surprised to see some green fields, but I had no idea what was in store.  As soon as we landed, I sent a text to ‘Blind Lion’ and soon enough, they responded with enthusiasm, and included their location, the passcode to the door and the password that I would need to get seated.  With that out of the way, I headed toward the “Rental Car” station and was soon outside in the parking lot.  That was my first indication that I was in a special place because in front of me were lush green fields and green hills.  At first glance, Rapid City, South Dakota appeared to be a very beautiful place.

Starting off at 'Marlin's Family Restaurant'

This was further emphasized as I drove into town, since there was greenery all around me.  It was just a few miles drive to my hotel, which was located next to a park.  I tried to check-in and they said that the room wasn’t ready yet.  I had things planned for the afternoon, so I told them that I would be back later and left to get some food.  I was going to a place called ‘Marlin’s Family Restaurant’ and boy, they weren’t kidding with the name.  This was a “blue-collar” place and everyone in there seemed to be a regular.  After glancing at me curiously, they went back to their food and I looked around at a place that seemed to have been last remodeled in the 70s.  The pace was laid back, though the servers were very friendly and treated me like I was visiting their family home…which in a way was true.  The food was typical diner fare, and while not exactly “Michelin quality”, I was pleased to have visited the place.

At the 'Black Hills Caverns'

I was now going a few miles outside of town to a place called ‘Black Hills Caverns’ and the drive there took me through some beautiful landscape.  The road turned into gravel and led me to a dead end where there was a wooden cabin announcing itself as the “Visitor’s Center”.  I went inside and the girl behind the counter told me that there were 2 options as far as the tours were concerned.  There was the “Crystal Tour”, which was a short excursion inside the caverns to look at some of the natural crystal formations. There was also something called the “Adventure Tour”, which delved much deeper inside the caverns and was of  longer duration.  I asked the girl if that tour included us getting on our hands and knees and crawling, and she said that while that wasn’t the case, there were some narrow areas and some elevation changes to navigate.  I picked the longer tour and then walked about the “Gift Shop” till it was time to depart.

The narrow and low interior of the cavern

There were 2 other couples besides me and we were led by our guide through a back door to the opening of the cavern.  He was a young man who told us about the discovery of these caves, by accident, in the late 19^th century.  It was a warm day and he mentioned that as soon as we got inside, we would notice a drastic drop in the temperature.  Was that true or what!  A few steps in, it was as if I had stepped inside a room blasting air-conditioner.  Our guide mentioned that this temperature was constant all year round, irrespective of the season outside.  He reiterated that we should stay together as a group as he was once on a tour with an elderly couple and when he couldn’t locate them after a tour, he panicked, thinking that he had left them in the caverns.  Seems like they had just left, but what a scare!

More tight spaces

Another key advice was to mind our heads as there were places where we would need to bend low.  I was reminded of that a bit later, as I hit my head against a low rock, and cursed under my breath that they should really provide “hard hats” for this tour.  If there ever was a need for that, this was it.  Besides our heads, we also had to mind our footing since the ground was uneven and, in some places, wet and slippery.  But, they had done a good job of creating a pathway and as we descended, our guide pointed out some of the natural rock and crystal formations that were just outstanding.  He told us how people have seen shapes of animals in them, so much so that the animal's name has stuck for that part of the cavern.  At one spot he gathered us around and told us of a local club “initiation ceremony”, where they would bring recruits down here and then switch off all the lights and leave.  The recruits then had to find their way back to the surface.  Considering I couldn’t see half an inch in front of me, that seemed like an impossible task, although if you struck the rocks in the cave, they produced a spark…as if that would help.  It was by far one of the most unsettling feelings of my life, the 10 seconds when the lights were off.

It wasn't pleasant when these lights went out

We kept descending and reached 225 feet underground, where there was an opening, where we were told people came to get married.  Try getting all the folks in their wedding attire down here!  We started on our way back as he kept telling us stories, one of which was about folks going “spelunking” through narrow outlets – an insane activity if there was one – and how one of them had gotten stuck and had to be rescued after a few days.  It was a bit scary being down here and I had a greater appreciation for miners after this.  We emerged back from the cool cave into the humid air and before departing, our guide told us about local attractions and encouraged me to drive down something called “Needles Highways”.  He also mentioned that we should look out for South Dakota’s 14-year old drivers, that being the eligible age here I suppose.  He said that on our way back into town we should stop at the “Reptile Museum”.  Yeah, that wasn’t happening with me.

The 'Chapel in the Hills'

I was however, planning to visit a place called ‘Chapel in the Hills’ before returning to my hotel.  I did not know much about it and as I parked the car, I saw a wooden structure which appeared to be, well, a chapel.  Reading more about it, I learned that this was a functioning chapel, with daily services during summer, and was modeled after a similar church in Norway.  So, I guess it made this, “Norwegian Wood”!  It was a gorgeous setting, not only the area around the chapel, but also the vista’s in the distance.  Once again, this place was impressing me to no end.  I visited a small log cabin museum, which was replica of a similar cabin in Norway in the 1800’s and included articles from that era.  The actual chapel itself was small and modest, with wooden interiors, but was beautiful in its simplicity.  It was serene in there and I could imagine this being a great place for service.

Into the woods on the "Meditation Trail" 

Outside I saw a pathway called “Meditation Trail”, which led into the hills and I decided to explore.  It was a small path with benches and statues, which allowed people to meditate in solitude.  I reached the end and then turned back to get into the car and head to my hotel.  The skies had been threatening all afternoon and just as I was gathering my things from the car, there was a huge downpour causing me to rush inside.  My room was ready now and I was able to settle down for a bit before heading out.  By now the rain had stopped and the sun was blazing.  The park outside my hotel – called ‘Memorial Park’ was quite big and had a pond as well a couple of bridges going over a stream.  Now that the rains had subsided, people had come out to enjoy the weather – though it was quite hot.  At one end of the park they had an exhibit of remnants of the “Berlin Wall”, apparently the largest in the US.  I walked over there and then headed into the main part of town which was just a few blocks away.

Downtown Rapid City

Across a few rail tracks, was what I suppose passed of as the the downtown area.  There were a few blocks of restaurants and bars as well as what looked like a central square with a fountain.  It was still early in the evening – as well as hot – and so the area was empty.  I still had some time before my reservation and so visited something called ‘Pawnseum’, which claimed to be world’s only… “Pawn Museum”, I guess.  It looked like an antique store as I walked through it, with a section on wall clocks and some other stuff.  However, the biggest area of the store was reserved for guns…a lot of them.  There was other hunting gear and weapons and I guess the rest of the place seemed irrelevant.

The secret passage to
'The Blind Lion'

It was almost 6 pm, which is when I was due at ‘Blind Lion’, and I had a general idea regarding the entrance.  They claimed to be below ‘Murphy’s Irish Pub’, but it wasn’t as easy as walking through the pub and then taking the stairs downstairs.  The entry was through an unmarked door in the back alley, next to the garbage dumpsters.  I found the place and went down through some water and other stuff, past the kitchen and came to the “safe door”.  I had been sent the passcode via text and I entered inside to find a classic “speakeasy”, with dark interiors.  I was the first person in there and my final screening was the password, “I am here to see the Heroic Hamster”, which had been sent as well.

And the safe with a passcode

I took a seat at the bar and was told that I should not use my phone when there, something that I could respect.  The menu was full of craft cocktails and I ordered “Bartender’s Choice – Three Course Tasting”.  The gentleman behind the bar was named Austin and he was quite popular, especially with the ladies.  There were some regulars, but the rest of place wasn’t as full as I would have expected, especially considering the hoops to get in.  My first drink was based on “Tequila” and was followed by something called “The Colonel”, which was unlike anything I had tasted before in a cocktail.  The final drink was based on an “Irish Whiskey” and as far as craft cocktails go, these folks were as good as any in the nation.  And for fraction of the cost of a drink in bigger cities.  I had also seen some other creative drinks being made, such as a green one with herbs and another which included a big puff of “Cotton Candy”.  Yes, they had a machine making that.  I told Austin that I would come back again tomorrow, though I would still need to do the same text process.

Dinner with music at 'Wine Cellar'

Nearby was ‘Rushmore Hotel’ and its bar called ‘445 Martini Lounge’ and I stopped there for a drink before dinner.  Unlike the earlier place, this one looked like a generic hotel lobby bar and there wasn’t much to write home about.  While looking for dinner options, one of the recommended places had been ‘Wine Cellar’.  It was a short walk away and I suppose was the local “French Bistro” or “Wine Bar”.  There was a gentleman playing a guitar, though it felt a bit out of place.  I learned that today was “National Wine Day” and so perhaps it was appropriate to be here.  I ordered a dish called “Poulet en Croute”, and on the menu they said that it was “made to order”, meaning it would take some time.  That it did…a whole 45 minutes, but it was well made and so I decided to give them a pass.

A lovely evening

By the time I left the restaurant, the night had set in, and with it, the towns population had come out to play.  The fountain area that I had seen earlier, now had people around it.  I was walking back to my hotel and saw several people around enjoying ice cream.  I was now craving some of that, and almost asked some folks where they had picked it up.  I saw a narrow alley with some bars and on a whim turned in there.  Sure enough, I saw a place called ‘Silver Lining Creamery’, which had a line of people waiting to get their hand on the goods.  I got “Birthday Cake Ice Cream” in a “Waffle Cone” and walked back to my hotel…though in hindsight, I should have called for a ride, considering the dark and empty road.  But I arrived at my room soon and that was it for my first day in Rapid City.  Tomorrow would be the visit that had been waiting for me for many years.

To Be Continued...