48. Wyoming – Part 1

Month: September 2018

Location: Jackson Hole, Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone National Park

Whenever I mentioned to people that I was doing these travels, one of the questions would be, “Have you been to Yellowstone?”.  There are several “National Parks” in the country and I have been to some of those.  But ‘Yellowstone National Park’ remains one of the iconic landmarks that everyone expects you to visit.  So, it was a given that I would be going there as a part of my trip to Wyoming.  Besides that, I also wanted to visit ‘Grand Tetons National Park’, which I was looking forward to more than ‘Yellowstone’.  With 2 parks to cover, I would need additional days and so I decided to take Thursday and Friday off, to make it a really long weekend.

A great introduction to Jackson Hole

I had booked my travel months ahead of time and took a flight into Jackson Hole, Wyoming on a Thursday morning.  Jackson Hole airport is the only commercial airport in the nation that is located inside a “National Park”.  Also, rather that disembarking through a bridge into a terminal, passengers get off outside, on the tarmac, with breathtaking vistas all around.  There are moments when you realize that it is going to be a good visit and being presented with these sights was it for me.  I got into my rental car and started towards downtown Jackson.  It was a single road – “Route 191” - leading there and the rental agent gave me a map pointing towards delays owing to construction at a “roundabout”.  Well, yes there was construction, but the traffic was still moving.  If they thought this was a delay, they should see rush hour in Chicago!  It was a beautiful drive, with the ‘Grand Teton’ range as a backdrop and wide-open spaces all around.

My cozy room

There was a “Visitor’s Center”, welcoming people as the road approached the town.  As I kept driving, there was a definite increase in the number of people as well as businesses.  As with any town, there was a central “square” with a park, around which I could see shops and restaurants.  I continued, though and saw that the road ended at the base of a mountain, with a very steep looking ski slope.  Prior to reaching that, my “GPS” announced that my hotel was around the corner.  I was staying at a place called ‘Antler Inn’, which looked like a good old fashioned “Motel”, though they were charging me a hefty rate.  My parking spot was right outside my room and while it looked shabby on the outside, the interior was warm with wooden panels, resembling a cabin.

Downtown Jackson

I dropped off my stuff and left to get some lunch.  It was a beautiful day and walking down the streets with hills around me, was surreal. It made me think that this would be an outstanding place in winter, with snow on the streets.  Jackson Hole, the region around the town of Jackson, is in fact one of the preeminent skiing destinations in the country and with the “National Parks” around, its not a bad spot for summer visitors either.  Even though I was coming during the end of the tourist season, it was still quite busy, as I made my way to ‘Café Genevieve’.  There was a wait for a table, but I managed to squeeze in at the bar.  I wasn’t planning to get a drink, but then I saw something called “House Bloody Mary with Pig Candy” on the menu.  “Pig Candy” was another word for “Candied Bacon” and as good as that concept sounds, this one was sickly sweet.  I did enjoy my main entrée though, “Huevos Con Chile Verde with Chorizo and Poached Eggs”.

A mounted wagon alright!

Having polished off my meal, I walked through the park towards ‘Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum’.  I went past some local artisan stores and arrived at a building that looked modest.  Indeed, the museum had just one room of exhibits on local culture, though there was another location a couple of blocks away, and which housed some “Native American” artifacts.  The lady at the counter told me to look for a building with a “mounted wagon” and that was exactly how the other location could be described.  This one was smaller than the first one and it wasn’t long before I was on my way.

There's always time for chocolate

Since I was done earlier than anticipated, I decided to pick up my car and drive to another museum that was a mile or so outside of town.  On the way to the hotel I came across a chocolate shop called ‘Coco Love’, which would have been at home in a major city like Chicago or New York.  While there were some delectable offerings on display, the thing that had brought me inside was a picture of a “Chocolate Covered Gelato Bar” and that’s what I went with.  I devoured it by the time I reached my hotel and I picked up my car and left immediately.

The view from the deck of  "Visitors Center"

I was headed back toward the airport – “Route 191” being the lifeline in and out of town– and stopped at the Visitor’s Center to look around. There were a lot of people waiting to talk with the “Park Rangers” – we were in a “National Park” - at the help desk and after a while, I was getting a bit annoyed.  But the gentleman who helped me was one of the friendliest people you would ever meet and immediately disarmed me.  We discussed an “Aerial Tram” ride nearby and he encouraged me to go on it.  When I asked if there would be enough room on the tram if it was a busy day, he mentioned that the cabin held 100 people, though the pictures did not indicate that.  We also discussed some of the attractions of the ‘Grand Teton National Park’ and it seemed like a great way to spend a day.

At the 'National Museum of Wildlife Art'

The center also had some exhibits and a viewing area on the 2^nd floor, looking at the Jackson Hole valley.  Once again, what a sight.  It is incredible to think that people living here get to see this every day.  One of the extraordinary things for me was how “yellow” the landscape looked, as opposed to the lush green that I had seen in Rapid City South Dakota, as if this place was dry.  But even then, it was magnificent.  I got back in my car and drove a mile up the road to ‘National Museum of Wildlife Art’.  I had seen this building, which looked like a stone castle, on my way to town.  It was up a hill, meaning once again, the location offered spectacular views of the valley.

Not much to do for me here

I went inside and bought a ticket on what appeared to be a slow day – well, it was a Thursday after all.  The museum was dedicated to artwork representing wildlife around the world, not just Wyoming.  While it was a good place, I am not someone who is a big fan of wildlife, so I walked through the galleries and then after stepping outside to gaze at the view again, left for my hotel.  There was a grocery store across my hotel, and I bought some water which advertised itself as “infused with negative ions”, whatever that meant, though it tasted like water to me.  Then, since I had plenty of time to spare, I went to my room and saw some shows on my computer.

The entrance to 'The Rose', which was still closed

As with all my travels, I had done my research on cocktail bars and the unanimous consent on the top one was a place called ‘The Rose’.  It was supposed to open at 5:30 pm and since I always like to ensure I am early, I arrived at the location just after.  Well, that was the easy part.  I could see a sign and a flight of stairs leading up, but once upstairs, the doors were locked.  There was another bar down below, which was busy, and I went inside to ask if there was a “secret entrance” through there.  Well, there wasn’t and then after asking a few other business’s around, I knew I was at the right place.  There wasn’t much that I could do, so I moved on to the next place on my list, called ‘Silver Dollar Bar & Grill’.

A lovely evening in Jackson

The bar was located inside ‘Wort Hotel’ and described itself as a “Western-themed” place, though it looked like any other bar to me.  I ordered a drink called “Wytai”, which was Wyoming’s version of “Mai Tai” I suppose – hence the lame name.  It was too sweet, though I had lot of time and so sipped through it.  The countertop had “silver dollar” coins on it, as a reference to the name and while the drink was questionable, I liked the place.  It was a beautiful evening when I came out and the main street was busy with people.  My next destination was ‘Local Restaurant & Bar’, which appeared to be slightly upscale than the earlier one and extremely popular.  I got a seat at the bar and this time my drink – called “The Local” - hit the spot.

'The Rose' - my kind of bar

I still had 45 minutes before my dinner reservations, so I decided to take another run at ‘The Rose’ and I was glad that I did.  Not only was it open, it was exactly what I would have expected from a cocktail lounge, with dim lights, plush seats, a beautiful looking bar and a quirky menu.  It was also quite empty, which suited me just fine.  The place was affiliated to some theater, and I am sure it got busy during showtimes.  I got a drink called “Wonder Boy” whose description read, “Kid tested Mother approved”, because it was made with “Peanut Butter washed Bourbon”, all of which I could taste.  One of the bartenders was on the side experimenting with recipes, which was a sign that these guys took their craft seriously.  I liked this place a lot and it was a shame that I had to leave.  However, like ‘Blind Lion’ in Rapid City, I knew I would be back here for each of the next 2 nights.

A great end to the day

Speaking of “Lions”, a couple of blocks away was Jackson’s contribution to “fine dining”, ‘The Blue Lion’.  They even put “cocktails and fine dining” under their sign.  It looked like a house on the outside, which I have noticed is a growing trend for such restaurants in smaller towns.  Since my table wasn’t ready, I was directed to, what appeared to be a small bar”, though the bartender was at an elevated level.  He was also very busy and when he got to me, I ordered a drink called “Wyoming Whiskey Sagebrush”, which was a “herb infused whiskey sour”.  I was then taken to my table on the second level and as far as “fine dining” restaurants go, these folks did a great job, especially with their service, if not the food.  It was a nice dinner, capped off by a dessert called “Russian Cream”.  The restaurant was at a tricky location, not too far from the hotel, meaning calling for a ride would be meaningless.  However, the streets were dark and would make for an interesting walk.  I decided to just go for it and walked briskly till I go to some busy areas and then back to my room.  It had been a nice first day and set up the rest of the weekend perfectly for my “National Park” visits.

To Be Continued…

Jackson Hole Valley

47. Vermont

Month: August 2018

Location: Burlington

The beautiful State of Vermont

When I lived in Connecticut, there were many mornings in the Fall when we would drive up to Vermont to see the foliage.  There was a place called Bellow’s Falls where we would board a train – after getting some pancakes and maple syrup of course – for a small town of Ludlow.  It was a short ride, but on the way, we could see the beautiful sights of New England.  Then, after spending an hour or so exploring the small town, we would take the train back to Bellow’s Falls and then back home.  That was the only time I visited Vermont.  Now I was headed back, this time all the way to the North – this is a long state – to the shores of 'Lake Champlain' and the town of Burlington.

Busy afternoon in Burlington

I did not have a direct flight and had to connect in New York.  That meant that it was Friday afternoon when I arrived and took a ride to my hotel to drop of my bag.  It was summertime and all the hotels in downtown had been well out of reach in terms of prices, and so I was staying a a couple of miles away.  I did not spend much time in my room and left immediately.  I called for a ride and my driver dropped me off in the middle of the downtown – a very busy downtown.  At the center of everything was a small park and the streets around it were full of people, many sitting outside restaurants and bars, enjoying the afternoon.  Some of the streets were made of bricks and closed to traffic, with vendors having set up station in the middle.  There were boutique shops and art galleries and basically everything that makes a town charming.

The modest 'Burlington City Arts'

My first stop was a place called ‘Burlington City Arts @ The BCA Center’, which had an exhibit made of colored paper and that was pretty much the highlight of the place.  There were a couple of other galleries with photographs, but I was done with the place soon.  I walked through the busy streets and soaked in the ambiance, which was growing on me.  This was a lively place that was celebrating a beautiful summer’s day and I loved it.  I was also about to start my cocktail visits, meaning I was rushing to my first destination, which was a block away from this busy street.

My first stop of the evening

I entered ‘The Daily Planet’ – the bar, not the place where “Superman” works – and saw that it was empty.  It wasn’t so much the time since I had seen plenty of other bars that were full, so I wondered if I had made a mistake coming here. I ordered a drink called “The Homesteader”, which was bright red and based on the taste, this was absolutely the right place to start.  Plus, I had a great conversation with the bartender, Rio, who was studying to be a “Anesthesiologist” at the nearby ‘University of Vermont’.  I enjoyed talking about the cocktail bars across the nation and I mentioned that he might make the best drinks by a medical professional!  Before leaving, Rio told me about a “speakeasy” style hidden bar which I had not found during my research.

Cozy interior of 'The Whiskey Room'

The next set of bars that I would be visiting this evening, were all spread on the streets surrounding the park.  I would literally be visiting bars on all 4 sides!  First up, was a place called ‘The Archives’ which besides serving craft cocktails, also housed a collection of arcade video games.  However, all the patrons were at the bar and I ordered a brilliantly titled drink called “Black Gold”.  After a brief stop, I crossed the street to go to a place called, ‘The Whiskey Room at Ri Ra’, which was a bar within a bar.  ‘Ri Ra’ appeared to be an “Irish Pub” and through a door was an elegant “wood-paneled” room called – you guessed it – ‘The Whiskey Room’.  The menu was on an “iPad” and I ordered an interesting sounding drink called, “Szechuan Manhattan” and because they had it, “Blue Cheese Bacon Chips!”.  Both were worthy selections and I enjoyed my time here.

The informal 'Drink'

Next stop was a place called ‘The Gryphon’ and it seemed like a popular dining spot based on the crowd that was present at this time.  I took my time with a drink called “Mad River Daiquiri”, which helped recharge my battery for the rest of the evening.  I was now on the 3^rd side of the rectangular park and visited a place that was appropriately titled, ‘Drink’.  It appeared to be more of a coffee shop than a bar and I ordered a drink called “Wexford” and took a seat at a tall table, looking at all the pictures and posters on the wall.  While this place looked like a coffee shop, my next stop, ‘Monarch and the Milkweed’, was one.

A pleasant evening in Burlington

My research indicated that this place was one of the better-known ones, not only for cocktails, but also for coffee and breakfast.  When I had seen that, I wasn’t sure if I should invest much time in it, since I did not want to go someplace that wasn’t serious about their drinks.  Well, it wasn’t masquerading as a coffee place at this time of the evening and I quite liked the place.  Plus, they made a mean drink called “Escape Artist” and I was definitely glad to have come.  It was a pleasant evening when I stepped outside and since I had some time before dinner, I set-off to locate the “secret” bar that Rio had mentioned to me.  It was called ‘Deli 126’ and the entrance was through a refrigerator door inside a, well, deli.  Unlike some of the other “speakeasies”, it had a very relaxed ambiance on the other side with most of the tables and bar area occupied.  After a drink I went next door to my dining destination, ‘Bistro de Margot’, which – no surprise – was a “French” restaurant.  It was a nice dinner capped off by a “Chocolate Mousse”, after which I called a ride back to my hotel and retired for the day.

A beautiful day for a wagon ride

It was a beautiful day as I took a ride south of town to a place called ‘Shelburne Farms’.  They offered guided tours of the property while riding a wagon and I wasn’t going to miss out on that!  I got a ticket for the full tour, which would take almost 2 hours and would also include “cheese tasting” at the end.  There were a few other folks besides me in the wagon, that was being pulled by a truck, and we set off.  If I thought that it was beautiful day earlier, being in that wagon with rolling hills around me, elevated this to another level.  As we went through the farm, our very capable guide pointed out different landmarks, such as the barns where cows were housed.  One of the main products of this place is cheese and the cows are well cared for, with wide open grazing areas which would put a Vegas buffet to shame!

It was a picture perfect property

We drove past the shores of ‘Lake Champlain’ and as beautiful as it looked, our guide told us how infrequently it has frozen over recent winter’s, thanks to “global warming”.  Our next stop was an Inn on the premises, and it was a fantastic looking brick building with warm, wood paneled interior.  It was a historic building, from the 19^th century, that had been restored in the late 80’s.  Our guide told us some of the stories of the family that built this, and then we went outside.  I haven’t stayed in too many resorts or manors, but from what I have seen in movies, there is usually a pristine lawn where people can stretch out on comfortable “pool chairs”.  Then there is a garden, a pond with lilies, all leading up to a lake.  This place checked all these boxes and spectacularly.

The inn on the banks of the lake

Our guide told us to walk around and assemble back in 15 minutes to continue the tour.  I made full use of that time to revel in the beauty of the place and once again, it was a perfect day to be here.  The vista of the lake against this backdrop could have been a location in Europe.  I took some pictures and walked about in the garden, before meeting my group and boarding the wagon.  Now, I would always choose to stay in downtown of any city that I visit.  However, for those coming to Burlington for some relaxation, staying here would be the best way to experience Vermont.

Cheese making at the farm

With Vermont being one of the primary producers of “Cheddar Cheese”, it was no surprise that we would be seeing that over on this farm.  Sure enough, our next stop was at the farm to see cheese making.  We were taken to a room and behind a glass we saw the cheese making process in a mini-pool sized vessel.  The truck comes in with the milk and we saw a pipe fitting on the outside of the building where the milk could be transferred inside, thus starting the process.  The cows over here provide 50 pounds of milk daily, so there is a lot of cheese to be made. 

I was glad to have come here

Our next stop was a termed as “Sustainability Classroom”, where kids, well all visitors really, learned about sustainable farming.  ‘Shelburne Farms’ proudly stated its mission as a nonprofit organization that wanted to “inspire and cultivate learning for a sustainable future”.  They want to educate the next generation on what it takes to improve the quality of life on our planet and as a part of that, invite students to come and learn over here.  We saw some posters and material on the same, as well as some “hands-on” activities that they can take part in.  It was a fantastic place and made me appreciate the tour more.

Brunch at 'Penny Cluse Cafe'

There was more to the farm here, including a café, and most of my fellow visitors choose to stay behind.  It was just me and another person, besides the guide, who returned on the wagon to the starting point.  The last part of the tour was “cheese tasting” and only I chose to do that.  So, the guide and I sat at a picnic table and enjoyed some “cheddar” from the farm we had just visited.  I talked to her about the place and how much I had enjoyed myself here, and then it was time to call a ride back to the downtown.  The lady who picked me up was chatty and we talked about the restaurants and bars and she told me to visit a brewery she worked at, and even gave me a note for 6 free samples!  I said that I would try to make it there, though my evening was quite busy.  She also approved my choice for brunch – ‘Penny Cluse Café’.

A busy "Farmers Market"

The restaurant was located inside, what looked like a house from outside.  There was a wait for a table, but I spotted an opening at the counter and pounced on it.  It was a nice brunch and I could see why this place was so popular.  I was headed towards the waterfront but wanted to stop by the “Saturday Farmers Market”, which was being held on park around which all the bars and restaurants were located.  There were several vendors selling fresh produce as well as other goodies and I just couldn’t pass up on freshly made “Maple Cream Soda” at “Rookies Root Beer” stall.  Based on the long lines, they seemed to be popular with the locals.  It was delicious and a perfect cure for a hot day.  I do enjoy visiting “Farmer’s Markets”, for there is something so relaxing about walking amongst people who always seem to be in a good mood.  Maybe its all the flowers and the smells.

Next stop was the "Science and Nature Museum"

On the lakefront was ‘ECHO, Leahy Center for Lake Champlain’, which was the local “Science and Nature Museum”.  It has usually been my practice to visit such museums in different cities and while this one had a fantastic location and a modern building, it was fairly modest in its content.  There were the usual areas for kids for “hands on stuff” as well as educational material on the history of the region and its topography.  For me, the best room was a life-sized recreation of a 1876 boat called “The General Butler”, a ship that was caught in a storm and sank just off-shore from Burlington.  That was just one of hundreds of sunken ships in ‘Lake Champlain’ and make up Vermont’s “Historic Underwater Preserve”.  There is also an early 17^th century legend about a large creature that lives beneath the waters, which I am sure spooks the kids.

A walk along 'Lake Champlain'

I walked through the rest of the museum and then strolled along the trail that made up ‘Waterfront Park’, which followed the lake shore.  While not quite same as the one in Chicago, it was a nice to walk while watching some sail boats in the lake and other people enjoying the day.  There were other places that I wanted to visit this afternoon, and so I called a ride to go to ‘Fleming Museum of Art’, which was located on the campus of ‘University of Vermont’.  Having visited the art museum last month at ‘Princeton University’, I was looking forward to seeing another one that was affiliated to a University.  My driver dropped me and left, only for me to discover that the museum was closed.  And then it took 15 minutes for another car to get here.

The grounds of 'Ethan Allen Homestead'

A few miles outside of town was ‘Ethan Allen Homestead’, a historic house and museum from late 18^th century.  I arrived there, just after the last tour of the day had departed, meaning that I wouldn’t be able to visit the house.  However, they said that I was welcome to watch a short film about the place and then walk about the grounds.  Since I had nothing else to do, I decided to stick around.  I learned that Ethan Allen was a 18^th century public figure who helped Vermont achieve Statehood.  Well, since I wasn’t going to be learning much about the house, I set off on a walk around the estate.  There was a trail going past some fields and into the woods.  I eventually reached a pond and then walked back, just as the museum was closing.  Then started one of the more alarming episodes of my travels.

I thought that I would have to spend the night here!

I have been using “Uber” and more recently “Lyft” extensively to get around and it has rarely let me down.  But today, I was struggling to get connection and when I did, I was unable to find a ride.  Plus, there was no one to help me make a call to nearby cab companies.  Furthermore, this location wasn’t exactly accessible by foot.  After what seemed line an eternity, I finally found a ride and while I would have frowned at the 15-minute wait, today I was grateful.  I was certainly ready for a drink.

The main street of Winooski

I was going to a town called Winooski, which was just outside of Burlington, for my first couple of stops.  I arrived at a place called ‘Mule Bar’, where I got a drink called “Jungle Fever”, which was a good start.  Next door was a place called ‘Misery Loves Co.’, which was another one of those “farm to table restaurants” with descriptive menu’s and "tweezer driven chefs”.  In other words, my kind of place.  They also made great cocktails, as was evident by my drink, “Satin Sheets”.  I enjoyed this place and this town wasn’t a bad detour.

Next stop at 'Pizza Verita'

I took a ride to a place called “ArtsRiot”, which advertised itself as a good place for cocktails, but appeared to be an “events venue”.  As I walked in, I saw a huge room which could host a concert, and a group of folks having a discussion.  They mentioned that the place was closed for the evening since they did indeed have an event, and so that was that!  This place was a few blocks away from downtown and now that I had time, I started walking back.  I came to a place called ‘Pizzeria Verita’, which I had planned to skip, well, because of the name, which did not inspire much confidence in the quality of their drinks.  I was however mistaken, since not only was my drink – named “Brooklyn to Burlington” – good, I liked the overall ambiance.  It was dinner time and this place was packed.  It definitely looked more than just a pizzeria.

"Old Fashioned Flight" at 'Mad River Distillers'

My next stop was ‘Mad River Distillers’, which was located in the heart of the action and one of the popular drinking spots in Burlington.  As the name suggests, they were known for distilling all things good in this world and I saw something called “Old Fashioned Flight” and that was that.  There were small pours of 3 types – “Classic”, “New England”, and “Burlington”, which had a maple flavor.  I also got a plate of “Vermont Brie” and that complimented the drinks very well.  I liked this place and if there weren’t other places to visit, I could have gladly stayed here.

The basement of 'Half Lounge'

Around the central square was a place called ‘Half Lounge’.  The name suggested a place with comfortable chairs and craft cocktails, but to my surprise, it looked like a bar version of a “Take-out restaurant”, with a small bar and one bench.  I asked if there was a place to sit and they said that there was a room in the basement.  So, I took my drink called, “The Prince” and went to a basement room, with wood panels wooden furniture.  It looked like something beneath a ships deck and it was as hot as any basement can get.  I was the only person in there and after hastily having a few sips, I left for the next place.

The alley to get to 'Lincoln's'

In an alley next to this place was another hidden bar called ‘Lincoln’s’, though its entrance was well publicized.  There was a heavy door, resembling a vault to get in and I was getting ready to take a picture.  Just then a gentleman came running outside, completely out of breath, telling me that photography was prohibited.  He would have made Paul Revere proud, and I respected his wishes.  The interior was like a “Dive Bar” and it reminded me of its namesake in Portland, Maine.  Like that place, this was “cash only”, and had simple “mixer” drinks.  I got a “Rum and Diet” and grabbed a seat at a tall table, observing the paranoid gentleman watch the exterior on a small screen like a hawk. 

Another fine evening

It was a beautiful evening as I walked to my final stop prior to dinner, and it was called ‘Juniper Bar & Restaurant’, located inside the famous ‘Hotel Vermont’.  It was by far the most expensive hotel and all things considered, it looked a bit underwhelming.  I got a drink called “Wooden Anniversary” and bided my time till my dinner reservations.  It was place next door called ‘Hen of the Wood’ and it was supposedly the most popular restaurant in Burlington.  That was clearly evident in how crowded the place was, so much so that my reservation meant nothing.  I still had to wait almost 30 minutes for my table and decided to get a cocktail in the interim.  I saw something called “Northern Exposure”, which is also the title of one of my all-time favorite TV shows.  Alas, the drink was terrible and coupled with the wait, I was getting annoyed.  I finally got a table and the food was fine as was the service.  However, the best part of coming here was that on the next table was Rio, the anesthesiologist-bartender from yesterday, who was out on a date.  He recognized me and I give him a report on my bar visits over the last couple of days, saying that his cocktail was one of the best.  After exchanging phone numbers, I called a ride back to my hotel.

In all of their wisdom, “Jet Blue Airlines”, had decided to bring forward my flight to New York, ahead by 2 hours, thinking it would be better for me to wait at the airport rather than get brunch here.  So, the only thing I did in the morning was check-out of my hotel and go to the airport, for a layover which was as boring as I had anticipated.  This trip concluded my visits to the 6 New England States, all of which had been pleasant.  This was probably 2^nd only to Portland, Maine, and I had enjoyed my time here.  Burlington is a vibrant city, with plenty of fun things to do in downtown, as well as pristine nature on the outskirts.  My trip to ‘Shelburne Farms’ yesterday was probably one of the highlights of all of my visits.  If I come back here again, I am sure that I would enjoy the city just as much.

46. New Jersey

Month: July 2018

Location: Eatontown, Asbury Park, Sandy Hook and Princeton

I knew that I would eventually have to visit the “Garden State” but the question was, where?  Jersey City and Newark, well, there wasn’t much there that interested me.  People said that I should go to Princeton and while that was a good idea, I wanted something more out of this state.  That’s when I thought about visiting the famous “Jersey Shore”.  The first thought, of course, was Atlantic City.  But I had been there before, and it was too far south.  I was visiting on July 4^th, which was mid-week, and wanted to combine this trip with a visit to New York later that weekend.  Some place more upstate would be ideal.  That’s when I came across Asbury Park and it seemed perfect.  So, I booked a flight to Newark and rented a car that would take me to Asbury Park for a night.  I would then go to Princeton the following day and leave for New York a day later.  It was a solid plan.

My flight to Newark was in the late morning on July 4^th, so it wasn’t a big rush to get to the airport.  I landed just after 2:30 pm Eastern and had to figure out a way to get to the “Rental Cars”, for which I had to take the “AirTrain”.  It was an elevated train that stopped at all terminals and eventually I arrived at my destination.  With my car at hand and directions on my phone, I set off for the “Jersey Shore”.  I couldn’t find affordable housing in Asbury Park, and hence had booked a room in Eatontown, which was about 5-6 miles from the beach.  The drive took me on the infamous “New Jersey Turnpike” for a bit and yeah, it was still as ugly as I remembered it.  After about 45 minutes of driving I arrived at my hotel which looked quite plain.  But with the demand in this area they were charging me a hefty rate, though they did win me over a bit by having chocolate pudding as a check-in treat.

I dropped my stuff off and called a ride, which took a long time to get to me.  In the meanwhile, people around me were either going to or coming back from the beach.  There are a few things in life which are just not for me and lazing on the beach the entire day is top of the list.  When my “Uber” finally got to me, the most disconcerting thing was seeing that the driver had a companion with them for the ride.  This is a strict violation of their policy and clearly the driver was choosing to ignore that.  Later during the ride, the driver abandoned the car in the middle of a busy road and went to help some ducks cross the street.  I wish I was making this up and as sweet as this sounds, it is still an unprofessional thing to do – not to mention unsafe for themselves as well as people in the car.

From the roof of 'The Asbury Hotel'

I finally arrived at my destination, which wasn’t the beach, but a place called ‘The Asbury Hotel’.  I was headed to ‘Salvation Rooftop Bar’ and this shouldn’t come as a surprise to those who know me.  I do have my priorities very clear when I visit any place!  The bar was your typical rooftop with great views and had quite a crowd for this time of the afternoon.  I could see the boardwalk, where I was headed after this, as well as the long beach of Asbury Park.  I started with something called “Asbury Pain Killer” and with that out of the way, set off for the beach.

The boardwalk 

Barring a brief visit to Atlantic City many years ago, I have not been on any boardwalk.  While researching towns along the “Jersey Shore” I had noticed that most of those had a boardwalk, and I was keen to explore why that was such an attraction.  There was a huge structure that looked like an aircraft hanger and which housed many vendors selling everything from food to souvenirs.  A wooden path extended out on either side and beyond the path and the building was the beach.  Both, the beach as well as the boardwalk, was bustling with people.  I started making my way through the crowd and very soon the beach would be emptied to prepare for the fireworks, meaning the boardwalk would have even more people.

The famous 'Stone Pony'

There were some attractions, including something called ‘Silverball Museum’, which housed several “Pinball Machines” – a lot of them.  I would have gone in, if not for the entry fee, since I wasn’t interested in playing anyways.  Next to it was a place called ‘Langosta Lounge’, which was a typical bar by the beach.  It was also very full, and I got a solitary spot at the end of the bar and ordered a drink called “Jalepeno and Pineapple Rita”.  They had now started clearing the beach and people were coming inside all the restaurants and bars.  I stayed here for a bit and started walking further down the boardwalk.  One of my colleagues had mentioned that I should stop by to see a place called ‘Stone Pony’, which was a music place where Bruce Springsteen got his start.  Apparently he still stops by occasionally, but not today, since it was a small building which hardly looked like a famous music spot.  I suppose that’s the point of it all.

The beach was being emptied for the fireworks

Towards the end of the boardwalk was a place called ‘Watermark’, that came highly recommended and which I wanted to visit.  The tricky part was locating the entrance, which wasn’t on the boardwalk, but rather a street behind it.  After walking around for a bit, I finally found it and went upstairs to see a place which had a large deck overlooking the beach, as well as a nice lounge with comfortable couches and chairs – including a fireplace.  You had to order a drink at the bar – which had no seats – and then proceed to wherever you wanted to settle.  I picked a nice couch near the fireplace and enjoyed my drink called, “The Mermaid and the Walrus”.

Heading into "downtown"

It was a beautiful evening as I left the boardwalk and headed inland towards what passed off as the main town area.  There were a few blocks of streets with restaurants and bars and this was more of my kind of spot than the beach.  I was headed to a place called ‘Barrio Costero’, which was a very trendy place serving Mexican cuisine.  I got “Guadalajara Old Fashioned” and it was as good a drink as I had this evening.  On another street around the corner was a building resembling an old house, both from the outside and the inside.  This was in fact a bar and restaurant called ‘Moonstruck’ and unlike other places, this one was quite isolated.  Part of the reason was the ambiance, which resembled an old lounge complete with a piano, and I expected someone to come and sing Sinatra songs at any time.  As could be expected, their main specialty was Martini and even though I liked the place, I didn’t stay long.

Headed for dinner

I came back to the main, busy part of town – what a difference just one corner makes – and into a place that was opposite of one I had just left.  It was called ‘The Bonney Read’ and man was it full!  I squeezed into one spot at the bar and ordered “Nelson’s Folly Olde Fashioned”, with a lot of hustle and bustle around me.  There was another place that I wanted to visit prior to my dinner and it was a bar called ‘Little Buddy’.  What I did not know was that it was also a “speakeasy” and for the life of me, I couldn’t find the place.  For someone who has traveled the country successfully seeking these places, this was an amateurish effort.  In my defense though, if I had known this was one of those hidden places, I would have done my research.

The bar at 'Pascal and Sabine'

I arrived at my dinner place ‘Pascal and Sabine’ ahead of my reservations and went to the bar area to wait.  There I met a gentleman named Danny, who was of Colombian decent, but lived in Australia.  We got talking and for the next 20 minutes chatted about multiple things including travel, soccer and everything that guys at a bar discuss.  When my table was ready, I went over and while not the best, it was a decent meal.  I asked my server about this bar I was trying to locate, and he told me how to get there.  Apparently, it was inside a bar named ‘The Annex’, which itself was inside a pub called ‘Brickwall Tavern & Dining Room’.  Yeah, talk about making it difficult.

The hidden 'Little Buddy'

After dinner I walked across the street to have another go at finding this place, just as the fireworks show was on at the beach.  I saw a guy at the door and he let me through into a “Tiki Bar” and secret or not, there were lot of people in there.  With all the colorful décor and lights, it was a festive ambiance and I liked it.  I got a drink called “Shipwrecked” and soaked it all in.  I had been in Asbury Park for less than half a day, though it seemed longer.  It had been a fun evening and though I could have stayed out longer, I called a ride – a very expensive ride as it turned out to be – back to the hotel.

Starting with a New Jersey institution

I checked-out of my hotel just as people were leaving for the beach.  I was planning to be in Princeton in the afternoon, meaning I had this morning to explore more of this area.  I debated going down south, to the next township of ‘Belmar’, which had a beach and probably another boardwalk.  But I decided to go north instead, to Sandy Hook, which called itself a “barrier split”, a coastal landform that is usually formed due to sand and tides.  This one was almost 6 miles long and shaped like a hook – hence the name.  It also housed a “Coast Guard Base”, which was off-limits.  But most of the area was managed by “National Park Services”, including beaches and a Lighthouse.  It was a short car ride away, though before that I had to visit the great New Jersey institution that is a “Deli”.

Inside 'Frank's Deli'

Whenever you watch “Travel” or “Food” related shows, they emphasize that one must have a “deli sandwich” in New Jersey.  Now, that could also be since New Jersey has no other contribution to the culinary world!  ‘Frank’s Deli’ in Asbury Park was considered to be one of the top ones in the State and so I headed there before leaving town.  I parked the car in their tiny lot and went inside to see a long line.  After a while I realized that it was for pickup and so I moved past the folks and sat at the counter.  I had been to ‘Katz Delicatessen’ in New York and while this was much smaller than that, the general interior was similar.  There were tables arranged close to each other and occupied by families.  There was a place for people to order their “deli meat” to go and the portions, well let’s just say that no one left hungry.  I ordered a “Chicken Salad” sandwich and the thing which impressed me the most was its construction.  Yes, the sandwich was enormous, but it held its shape when you took a bite, as all good sandwiches should.

The lighthouse at Sandy Hook

With a hearty lunch behind me, I set off for Sandy Hook and at stages the road got really narrow with water on both sides.  There was a small fee to enter and that gave the visitors access to the various beaches and a 250-year-old lighthouse, which was where I wanted to go.  I arrived at what looked like “town square” but with abandoned buildings, that looked like they had been military barracks.  I went inside the visitor’s center at the base of the lighthouse and signed up for a tour, which wouldn’t start for another 45 minutes.  That gave me an opportunity to explore the museum as well as the grounds.  The exhibits presented a nice little history of the lighthouse and its role in the early trade route into New York Harbor. It was built in mid-1700’s and is the oldest operating lighthouse in the nation.

The creepy ruins of "artillery battery"

Besides the lighthouse, the premises were also a part of a now de-active Fort.  There were ruins of “artillery battery”, which were accessible through some creepy looking passages through overgrown shrubbery.  As far as ruins go, this one was a bit spooky and would make for a fantastic “Halloween” attraction.  I got out of there fast and since there was enough time to spare prior to my lighthouse tour, I walked over to another abandoned site – which was further away than I had anticipated – and even got into my car to drive around a bit.  There were rows upon rows of abandoned houses, which once housed the military folks stationed here, but now looked like a “ghost town”.  I returned for my tour and there were a few other folks besides me who would be making the climb.  And a climb it was.

Manhattan skyline from the top of the lighthouse

Going up a spiral staircase does not allow for much resting and so by the time the group reached the top, I was quite winded.  But wait, now we had to go up a straight ladder and squeeze through a narrow trapdoor in order to reach the actual light.  Getting up through that was interesting and getting down would take some doing.  But once I was up there I was glad to have done so, because the view around me was spectacular.  Our guide pointed out the ‘Statue of Liberty’ in the distance, with Manhattan as the backdrop.  We could also see Staten Island as well as parts of New Jersey.  It also provided us with a “birds-eye view” of this area and besides the ruins, we could see the “Coast Guard” base at the edge of land.  The guide told us more about the history of this place and the shipping corridor that it served. Then it was time to make the treacherous decent down the ladder, followed by the spiral staircase.  It was a hot day outside and it was felt inside the building.

The abandoned barracks

Before departing I stopped at one of the houses, which had been converted into a replica of what it was like to live here back in the 70s.  There was no air-conditioning inside, meaning that I got out of there fast and with directions to Princeton programmed in, started my hour-long drive.  It took me through the interior roads and towns, and even through some rain for a bit, before I arrived at my hotel in Princeton.  As I walked through the lobby, I was surprised that was more elegant than I had anticipated.  But this was one of the premier “college towns” and thus had higher standards than the place I had stayed at last night, which had been double the rate here.

Finally, the 'Princeton University Art Museum'

There weren’t many sights outside of the campus and that’s where I was headed.  I took a ride to ‘Princeton University Art Museum’, but there was a problem getting there due to construction.  So my driver dropped me just outside the campus, which was fine with me since I would be able to navigate using my trusted phone.  Well, that’s what I thought.  For whatever reason my “GPS” was not functioning well and I was struggling to get oriented.  I walked about in circles for some time, with no clue where the said building was located.  Now, there are worst places to get lost than this amazing campus, but I was getting annoyed by the lack of maps to help people find their way.  Plus, none of the students that I asked for directions knew anything about their campus!  I entered a building and asked some other students – who looked like they belonged to a “drama club” –  and fortunately they were able to point me to the right building.

It was a very respectable museum

I have been to my share of museums during my travels and some good ones too.  I did not have much expectations from this one, especially since it was inside a University.  This one was not only respectable, but could have put some of the other museums to shame.  I enjoyed my time here and with no other sights on the agenda for this afternoon, I was ready to hit the bars.  Well, that would be a challenge since once again, my navigation was acting up.  I was going to a place on campus, called ‘Dinky Bar and Kitchen’, but had no idea how to find it.  I asked a student and he gave me complex, but detailed directions, which I hoped to follow.  Funny that none of the students knew where the museum was but could find a bar easily!

The charming building of 'Dinky Bar and Kitchen'

After a couple of wrong turns I finally arrived at the place, which was inside a charming building that looked like a cottage.  The interior was modern, with a nice bar area, which was preparing for dinner crowd.  I ordered a drink called “Black Diamond” and contemplated my next destination.  I could either go into the downtown, where I would be spending bulk of my time this evening, or take a ride to go a bit away to a place called, ‘Flight Martini and Wine Lounge’.  With a classy name like that, I decided to proceed there, which in hindsight wasn’t the best use of my time.

The disappointing 'Flight Martini and Wine Lounge'

We navigated through the evening rush hour – this was a Thursday after all – to arrive at the ‘Crowne Plaza Hotel’, which was in an area resembling an “Industrial Park”.  The bar was in the Mezzanine level of this hotel and I arrived to see that I was the only person in there, much to the annoyance of the bartender.  It was also very hot in there and I was told that the air-conditioning was broken.  Now, being in the energy industry, I have certain insights on tricks businesses play in order to save money.  A quick look at the grid told me that this particular zone was probably in energy conservation mode and cutting power to air-conditioners is the best and fastest way to do that.  Also, since the lobby of the hotel had been comfortably cool, they probably figured that since no one was in the bar area, it would be best to switch off air to that section.  Well, I could respect that, even thought it was quite unpleasant and even a ‘Cuban Mojito’ couldn’t stop me from getting out fast.  Coming here had been a mistake.

A beautiful evening in downtown Princeton

I took a ride back into town and was dropped off on a charming street which constituted the main part of downtown Princeton.  There were restaurants, bars and boutique shops, and people had come out to enjoy the evening.  I went to a bar called ‘Mistral’ and as far as cocktails go, these folks knew what they were doing.  The menu was full of original creations and I ordered a drink called ‘Lion’s Tail’.  The bar area was nice and on the other side I could see the dining room, with an open kitchen.  A quick look at the menu indicated that this might have been a good dinner option, but I had made other plans.  But that was for much later in the evening.

The entrance to 'Alchemist & Barrister'

Just across the street was my next stop, ‘Witherspoon Grill’.  Now, this place was full as any during dinnertime.  Both, the dining, as well as the bar area were busy, though I managed to squeeze into a solitary spot at the bar.  I enjoyed the buzz around me over my ‘Kentucky Old Fashioned’ and the place was filling up even more when I left.  Nearby in an alley was a supposedly popular spot called ‘Alchemist & Barrister’  and I arrived to see that there was some party going on in one of the sections.  I got a place at the bar and ordered “A&B Rum Punch”, which was bright and colorful.  This looked like a college bar and I wondered if it was old enough for someone like Albert Einstein to have visited.

'The Peacock Inn'

It was twilight now as I walked to the busy cross-street bordering the campus and to a place called ‘Triumph Brewing Company’. Although this was a brewery, as evident from the huge vats behind the bar, I got a cocktail called ‘What’s Up Doc’.  There were some students over here, as well as on the street outside, as I walked to my dining destination, ‘The Peacock Inn’.  It was a few blocks away on a very quiet and isolated street and from the outside looked like a house.  It described itself as a “Luxury Boutique Hotel”, and the dining room had white table cloth, but was quite empty.  The service was good though, with them trying their best to be a fine dining restaurant.  The food was okay and besides a very interesting group – with an obviously drunk man – that showed up later, I was alone for the duration of my meal.  I took a ride back to my hotel and since it was still early – by my standards I guess – I visited the bar, ‘Artisan Kitchen and Lounge’, for a nightcap before retiring.

The quaint architecture of 'Princeton University'

The next day was overcast as I checked-out and drove my car to the campus.  I parked in a garage near the street where I had been the previous evening and then walked over.  As I had found out yesterday, this is a beautiful campus with its architecture and ivy-covered walls.  I walked around admiring the buildings and even stepped inside a chapel to take a look.  I spotted other tour groups and a guided tour would probably have been a good idea.  A few blocks from the campus was a place called ‘Morven Museum & Garden’, which was a historic house from the 18^th century and now on the “National Register of Historic Places”. 

The gardens and house of the 'Moven Museum'

I walked down the path towards the house, noticing a charming box for people to pick-up and drop-off books – almost like a community library.  The house itself was simple and once served as “Governor’s Mansion”.  It was nice to walk through the place and the gardens, learning more about the families that lived there.  After a while I started my journey back to the garage to pick-up my car.  While I could have spent more time in Princeton, I had to drop off the car before my 48 hours of rental were up.  However, I had enough time for some brunch.  One of the places that had come up during my research was in a mall lot and was called ‘The Turning Point of Princeton’.  There appeared to be several visitors to the mall as I parked and went over to the restaurant, which was full as well.  After a short wait I got a spot at the bar and the food was worth the hype.

Final stop for brunch

By the time I was ready to leave it was pouring outside and I got soaked, even with my short walk to the car.  The thunderstorms continued on my way to the airport, but by the time I arrived it had cleared up.  I was headed to New York City and after dropping off my car I got on the “AirTrain” to the Airport station to take me downtown.  That seemed to take forever, but eventually I found my way to my destination for a 35-minute ride that would drop me off in the middle of Manhattan.  It seems like Newark is the best airport to fly into if headed to New York.  But this was about my 46^th visit during these travels.  I had been doubtful that New Jersey would have much to offer, but had been surprised by how much fun I had in Asbury Park.  Plus, Princeton had been charming, thus making this one of the better trips of the lot.