19. Kentucky

Month: April 2016

Location: Louisville

“Kentucky: Fast Horses, Smooth Bourbon”

Welcome to Louisville

This is how natives of Kentucky describe their home state.  I had never been a big Bourbon drinker; neither have I ever been on a horse.  But going to Louisville was very appealing, and I even considered doing it during the ‘Derby’ weekend – which would have definitely hurt my bank account.  So I decided to go a couple of weekends prior to the big one and also booked myself on a full day ‘Bourbon Trail’ tour.  I took the short flight and arrived in Louisville on a Friday afternoon, ready for an adventure.

The charming 'Brown Hotel'

I had booked myself in something called ‘Brown Hotel’ and while that sounds sketchy, little was I to know that it was in fact a very historic hotel and the lobby felt like something from the "colonial era". Even the room looked like it was someone’s residence rather than a typical hotel.  After settling in I came down to the hotel bar a bit earlier in the afternoon – hey its 5 O’clock somewhere…in the 'Atlantic'.  The bar itself was in the lobby and so had a nice ambiance  As soon as I settled down, I heard a couple next to me ask the gentleman behind the bar if they could get a “stamp”.  They guy then proceeded to give them a 4 digit code which they entered into their phone.  Upon inquiry, I learned that this bar was a part of the “Urban Bourbon Trail”, where one downloaded an app on their phone, visited at least 6 of the 30+ locations in Louisville and got a 4 digit code to “stamp” their visit.  This would make them eligible to receive a t-shirt.  I said “Sign me up”, assuming that consuming 6 drinks at 6 locations would not be a stretch.  I ordered a Bourbon cocktail and received my code.  The guy tried to help me out by giving me other codes but I refused, saying that not only was it unfair, it took the fun out of this.

The caverns under Louisville

My plans for the early evening included a visit to a place called ‘Mega Caverns’, which are man-made caverns which cover over 17-miles of the Louisville underground.  Amongst other things, they have they “World’s only underground Zipline Course”, an “Underground Ropes Challenge”, “Underground Dirt Bike Course” and a tour on something called “Mega Tram”.  I had tickets on the said tram and so took an ‘Uber’ to the outskirts of downtown to the caverns.  My driver gave me a good overview of the place, the festival that was taking place this weekend, the college sports that dominate the region, the upcoming ‘Derby’ and of course, what makes Kentucky the land of Bourbon, which I learned was the water that is naturally filtered through the ‘Limestone’ that forms the majority of the State’s crust.  She also told me that this weekend kicked off the ‘Derby’ season with a spectacular fireworks display tomorrow night called “Lights Over Louisville”, for which hundreds of thousands of people were expected.

This is how it would looked like in case of a "Nuclear Winter"

I was dropped off at the entrance of the Caverns, which did resemble a mine, and walked through some long corridors to enter what looked like the “Batcave”, but less grim.  I checked in and was told to head to a tram which was two open trolleys’ pulled by a jeep.  Joining me were dozens and dozens of screaming high school teenagers…again.  I sat in the 1^st row of the leading trolley and was soon surrounded by the kids.  Our guide climbed in the jeep and we set off going deep inside the caverns, which are essentially storage units for salt.  It was chilly inside and a surreal feeling to be in there.  Unlike caves which are claustrophobic, these were wide open spaces with tall ceilings and broad paths.  The caverns were built during the “Cold War” era as potential “Nuclear Shelters” and there was even a setup of how people would live there and it wasn’t pretty.  If that situation had become a reality, the existence in these caverns would have been survival, but no better fate than being locked in a dungeon for 2 years.  Later, when the threat was nullified, this property was purchased by a private owner, who capitalized by making it a tourist attraction and why not!  Our guide was getting off at various points and telling us about the caverns, including a section where she showed us a box of worms that acts as a natural “recycling center”.  As we drove through, I thought that the best time to visit the caverns would be during the holiday season, when they decorate it with lights and vehicles can drive through this spectacular show.

The magnificent bar at 'Buck's' 

The ride was great and the kids weren’t as big a problem as I had feared.  I ordered an ‘Uber’ and headed to my next destination, which I had selected near the restaurant where I was having dinner.  I was determined to get 6 “stamps” and hence had found a place called 'Buck’s' which was in a quaint neighborhood. In fact, it turned out to be an extraordinarily charming place, more so since many kids were coming here on a date, as if headed to a prom.  Plus the bar area was brilliant and I ordered a cocktail called “The Kiss of Kentucky” and had entered my 4-digit code even before taking a sip. 2 down, 4 to go.

Beautiful evening walk

I left the bar and walked over to my dinner place through an extremely charming neighborhood.  Away from the hustle and bustle of the downtown area is ‘610 Magnolia’, a restaurant that has gained rave reviews and for good reason.  Right from the outside of the building – which wasn’t easy to spot – to the dining area, everything was fantastic.  And then there was the food, which was as good as can be expected.  My phone was on its last legs and my biggest concern was not having enough juice to order an ‘Uber’.  But I barely survived and with the last bit of battery life, ordered my ride back to the hotel, once again engaging the driver in a fruitful discussion about the city.  Day 1 had been a good one.

I had learnt that the signature dish of Louisville had been invented in the very hotel that I was staying in.  Called “The Hot Brown”, it has everything that is fattening in life and so looks absolutely delicious.  I wanted to try it, but the only time that I could do so was for breakfast, before I left for my Bourbon tour.  So early in the morning I went to the hotel restaurant and ordered one of those - a piping hot skillet with toast, meat, “Mornay sauce” and lots of cheese.  It was a meal and a half and there was no way I could finish it.  With a partially burnt palate and a lot of guilt, I set off for the meeting location for my tour, which was about a mile away.  It was a nice walk through the downtown “party street”, which was lined with restaurants, and even had an enclosed block with a music stage at the center of it.  I imagine this to be a popular destination on Saturday nights, especially tonight with the other festivities.

This looked like the "party street"

I arrived at ‘Galt Hotel’, which was where ‘Mint Julip Tours’ had their office and went upstairs to see that a group had assembled.  Our guide was a gentleman named Chuck, who guided us to a small bus and we were off.  The “Bourbon Trail” comprises of 9 distilleries which are spread over the countryside and we were visiting 3 of them today.  Chuck was not only distinguished in the history and nuances of Bourbon, but also an avid horse enthusiast.  He said that since the ‘Derby’ was coming up, with our permission, he would like to take us through the historic ‘Churchill Downs Racetrack’ before leaving for our first stop.  We liked that idea and Chuck then told us all about the history of the race, some of the anecdotes from his experiences over the years and even gave us a tip for the projected winner.  It was a beautiful morning for going to the racetrack, even if it was just a drive through.  As we went past the stables and the facility, Chuck kept feeding us trivia including one where he mentioned that because of the age restriction on the horses, they just have one shot at winning the ‘Derby’.  He really was quite knowledgeable and took all of our questions.  Plus he was funny and had a calm persona, making him the perfect person to spend the day with.

The beautiful 'Bardstown'

As we left the city, I began to appreciate how beautiful the Kentucky countryside is.  It is green with expansive meadows and rolling hills and it was no surprise to enter a town called ‘Bardstown’ and see a sign, “Most Beautiful Small Town In America”.  Our first stop was at a distiller called ‘Heaven Hill’.  As soon as we got off the bus, we were whisked – get it, "whisked” for “whiskey”, never mind – off to the back tasting room, where a representative of the company was waiting with some bottles.  He then proceeded to tell us about types of Bourbon – wheat vs rye – and how to taste each and the associated nuances.  Unlike our upcoming stops which included a tour of the distillery, we just tasted here and so after having our fill of Bourbon, we were directed to the gift shop.  While others bought some bottles, I couldn’t do so because of my carry-on, and they did not ship.  So I got on the bus without anything to show for and we were off to our next stop.

Bourbon tasting

Perhaps the most recognizable brand of Bourbon is the bottle with a red wax seal – ‘Makers Mark’, and that is where we were headed.  As we went deeper into the countryside, it became prettier and more than once I saw farms with horses running around.  We arrived at the distillery which is distinguished because of their hundreds of Bourbon “cask houses” that are painted black.  We got off our bus and it looked like they were having a busy day because besides our team, there were other groups.  But they have been conducting tours for years and so have this down.  After a brief wait in their waiting area, we were led to the distillery where we were shown the stills and the fermentation vats, with an option to state the yeast infused batch.  We were then shown their oak barrels and the storage area, followed by the famous bottling station, which includes the red wax seal.  We were ready for the tasting room and after sipping on their different batches, we ended up in the gift shop where one had an option of sealing their own bottle by dipping in hot wax.  I did not make a purchase, but I did sign up for having my name put on a batch, wherein I would be eligible for purchasing a bottle from that cask.

The famous pie at 'Kurtz'

We boarded the bus and Chuck mentioned that our next stop would be for lunch at a restaurant called ‘Kurtz’ that has been in a family for 4 generations – and at least 3 of them would be on hand to serve us.  Plus he mentioned that they were known for their “Meringue Pie”, in fact telling us to start with that and then work our way backwards.  The place was very homely and we were all in a small room which looked like it belonged in a house, rather than a restaurant.  We were served by the family members and they were very courteous and friendly.  In keeping with the theme of the day, I ordered a “Mint Julip” as a lunchtime cocktail and the “Chocolate Meringue Pie” was as advertised.

The creepy "Cask Houses"

Post lunch we departed for our final stop on the tour, ‘Barton 1792’.  We arrived at the distillery and their tour guide started us off by showing the room where they have their “stills” but then took us to one of the places where they “house” the barrels.  Besides the limestone filtered water, one of the things that makes Bourbon special is their “barrel aging” process, which they claim is different than making ‘Whiskey’ or ‘Scotch’.  The barrels are used just once and there isn't an exact time on how long the Bourbon stays inside the barrel, than when the distiller decides to bottle it, based on taste.  These barrels are stored for years in a non-climate controlled environment, with the natural “heating” and “cooling” during the seasons, leading to expansion and contraction of the barrels, and thus different levels of penetration of the Bourbon into and out of the wood cask.  The houses themselves were very dark places with rickety flooring and creepy passages.  There were wooden planks and cables that passed off as elevators to bring the barrels up and down.  I must admit that place was a bit spooky and I for one wouldn’t want to be caught there by myself.  We left the storage houses and went straight for the tasting and then that was it as far as the tour was concerned.  We got on the bus and made the long trip back to Louisville downtown, which was just starting to get full for the fireworks show. Chuck said that this area would be jam packed in a few hours, meaning I headed in the opposite direction before the madness started.

I was "Bourbon'ed out"

I wanted to add another “stamp” to my collection and so stopped at a bar in another historic hotel called ‘Seelbach’.  Once again, I saw a lot of teenagers dressed as if they were on their way to the prom.  I finished my cocktail and went back to my room for a bit of “R&R” prior to dinner.  I was headed to a German restaurant called ‘Eiderdown’ and it was nice to be able to enjoy some Beer after a day spent drinking Bourbon.  Another thing that was good was its location, which was away from downtown, in a very isolated part of town.  But I was able to get an ‘Uber’ to and fro, and before heading back to my room, I continued my “Urban Bourbon Trail”, with a stop at a nearby bar called ‘Marketplace’.  It was a “live music” place, though I was a bit late for that.  I went back to my room and saw the last of the fireworks through my window before calling it a day.

That apparition is me as a "Virtual Goalkeeper"

I had a busy day today and in order to get through everything, had to leave the hotel early.  My first destination was ‘Kentucky Science Center’ and I reached there just as they opened, being the first visitor of the day.  It felt odd to be the only person wandering about the hallways and so I went and got some coffee and came back to find that a few more visitors had come in.  While it’s not Chicago’s ‘Museum Of Science & Industry’, it is a decent museum and I had a great time navigating through its various exhibits, including one where a “motion capture camera” puts one in the middle of a sports game.  I tried one where I was the "Soccer Goalkeeper" and through waving my arms was trying to save virtual soccer balls being hurled at me – not very successfully I might add.  I had a great time though and it had been a morning well spent.

The surprisingly nice '21 Cent Hotel'

I had lunch reservations at a restaurant called ‘Oakroom’ in the ‘Seelbach’.  This is an elegant place and their claim to fame is an expansive “Sunday Brunch Buffet”.  To say that it was outstanding would be an understatement and the food was as good as the setting.  Plus, not to be left behind, Bourbon made its appearance in a “Cheesecake”.  After brunch I was on my way to the ‘Frazier History Museum’ but stopped over at '21 Cent Hotel', a free art museum that has been integrated into a hotel.  For a free exhibit, the galleries were pretty good and the place had a decent turnout.  I stayed there for about 20 minutes and then proceeded towards the history museum, which turned out to be one of the premier attractions of Louisville.

With the "Big Boss"

The top floor has 2 main exhibits, both done in an outstanding way.  The first one is the history of “Prohibition” during the “20s”.  It was a very detailed look at what happened back then and how the act was enforced and later repelled.  There was a life size statue of the infamous Al Capone sitting a table and I took a selfie with him.  The 2^nd exhibit was on the “Lewis and Clark Expedition” and it was truly a great view of their journey and everything before, during and after.  The set pieces were well done and it gave the visitor a complete picture of their adventures.  The other exhibits were on the “Revolutionary War” and the “Civil War” and I wandered through the museum for a couple of hours, before crossing the street for my last stop.

The giant Baseball bat

One of the unmissable things around this part of the town is the giant Baseball bat outside the ‘Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory’.  Now, not having grown up playing Baseball, I did not know the significance of this place. But as I took a guided tour of the factory, I learned that most of the ‘MLB’ players – including some of the legends – had at some point used the bats made over here.  Plus, almost every kid growing up wanted town one of these.  It was interesting to see that while machinery has taken over most of the processes, there are still a few skilled people who can produce a Baseball bat with hand.  Even more amazing thing to learn was that this was it, their main factory and there were bats being made in front of our eyes, which would be used in a game within a few weeks.  The tour was really good and so was the rest of the museum.  There were exhibits on the evolution of the bats, full size statues of great players and other things.  But the most fascinating thing was a batting cage with a “Major League Pitcher” simulation of a fast ball.  I’ll tell you what.  I always thought that being a “NFL Quarterback” was the most difficult thing to do, but hitting a ball travelling at 95 mph is pretty close to impossible.

Damn right I did!

That was it in terms of visits to museums, but there was yet one goal that needed to be completed.  I still required 2 more “stamps” for my “Urban Bourbon Trail”, and I stopped at a bar called ‘Sway’, which had a friendly bartender and his assistant, who claimed to be supporting one of the teams playing in a ‘MLS’ game on TV.  The problem was that none of us knew which colors his favorite team was wearing and so did not know who to root for!  After a cocktail there I went for my final "stamp" to a place called ‘Bourbon Raw’, where I met a couple who was visiting from Wisconsin, and I gave them some tips on where to go over the next few days that they would be here.  I still had time for a quick bite to eat and did so while staring at the main street where a lot of people were outside enjoying the sun.  I took a shuttle back to the airport, after a splendid trip.  I was glad not to have come during the ‘Derby’ weekend since I wouldn’t have enjoyed myself as much as I had done over the last couple of days.  My final vindication was in a couple of weeks when I received my t-shirt for completing the ‘Urban Bourbon Trail’ challenge.