12. Rhode Island

Month: September 2015

Location: Newport

The streets of Newport

I was going to Hopkinton, Massachusetts for my 2^nd year of the ‘Jimmy Fund Boston Marathon Walk’.  So I thought about coming a day earlier in Providence, Rhode Island and driving to Newport, a wonderful New England Oceanside town if there ever was one.  I rented a car at the airport and made the 30 minute drive to Newport, arriving over the famous bridge, which deposits the visitor into the city.  I found my destination, which was a hotel called ‘Jailhouse Inn’, a quaint building with an interesting history…but more on that later.  After I had checked in, the person at the reception told me that I should go to the breakfast room and get the freshly baked cookies, which are usually put out at this time in the afternoon.  And my word they were fresh and gooey and had everything that’s right with a chocolate chip cookie.  I dropped off my stuff in my room, which was across a door that reminded me of a ‘Detective Agency’ from a ‘noir’ movie, and then I was ready to hit the town.

Entry into the 'Tennis Hall of Fame'

Years ago I had come here with some of my buddies and we had tried to get into the ‘International Tennis Hall Of Fame Museum’, until we realized that it wasn’t quite free. Being in school, we had beaten a hasty retreat, but this time I would make sure that I paid it a visit.  Armed with a map, I walked through some of the more charming streets that I have encountered during my travels.  Narrow streets that are not arranged in a typical cities “grid pattern”, and some historic looking buildings, give Newport a very “European” feel.  I arrived at the museum, the entry to which is through a lush-green tennis court that would be right at home at ‘Wimbledon’.  This time I brought my admission and for the next hour, walked through what is really a good museum, paying tribute to the rich history of tennis and all of its champions.  It was a bit nostalgic for me since I grew up watching many of these stars.  Newport is a strange location for such a museum, but I doubt if anyone would have done a better job.  Later as I walked through the grounds I saw many folks clad in their whites playing, and I am sure they were paying a rich premium for this privilege.  Later, as we shall see, wealth and Newport are quite synonymous with each other.

Yep, its waffle on a stick!

I was trying to locate a famous lemonade place, but couldn’t succeed in doing so.  What I did find was an outrageously delightful place called ‘Waffle On A Stick’ which serves…well, a waffle on a stick.  The lady who owned the place was a friendly soul and after proclaiming my love for this concept, we discussed my order and settled on a freshly made waffle drizzled with ‘Nutella’, chocolate and caramel.  I mean, why not! As I savored this treat, she gave me some pointers and directions towards my next destination, the magnificent ‘Cliff Walk’.

The long and winding road

Back when my buddies and I had given up on the museum, we had ended up at the ‘Cliff Walk’, which is essentially a 3 mile hike along the cliffs, with the majestic ‘Atlantic’ on one side and the equally magnificent mansions on the other.  I joined the path at one end and started walking along the winding track which took me through gardens, narrow bridges and even places where waves were splashing everyone who passed.  Brilliant!  The late afternoon was now turning into twilight, giving this experience a very surreal feel.  At one point I approached Newport’s version of the “Parisian love-lock bridge”, where couples usually sign their name on a lock, put ii on a fence and then throw away the key.  I had seen a similar thing back in December at Napa, as one exited the “Wine Train”. One in particular grabbed my attention. It had 2 sets of initials, a date, a hand drawn heart and the words, "May we dance through life together". I have always loved this concept and seeing it under that backdrop was special.  It was getting dark as I made my way back to the main road and then walked back to my hotel; going through the bustling downtown area where evening revelers had already started assembling.  Newport was coming alive.

The enchanting 'Castle Inn'

After changing I got in the car and followed GPS directions towards my dinner destination, which was a restaurant called ‘Castle Inn’.  This place is Oceanside and a bit removed from downtown, meaning that my drive took me through some very dark roads and isolated areas.  When I arrived at the location, I saw some people assembled inside a building and so stopped and handed my car to the valet…only to realize that I was about to gatecrash a wedding.  After a quick course-correction I found the restaurant and for the next couple of hours enjoyed the ambiance that only places like these can provide.  I returned back just before midnight and commented to the girl at the reception that this was a very unique hotel.  This led to a fascinating conversation, where she told me about the history of the place and boy, now everything made sense.  Jailhouse Inn’ is named so because that’s what it was in the past…a jail.  She pointed out how there were cell bars between us and why there was that door outside my room.  It seems that there are actual cells in the basement, though thankfully none of them have been converted into rooms!  She was interested in my ‘51/51’ quest and gave me pointers on what I should do tomorrow.  One of perks of my travels is finding places like these and meeting local folks like her.  It had been a great day.

The opulent Mansions

I woke up early and went down to the most charming room in which one can have breakfast.  This morning I would be visiting the most iconic landmarks of Newport…the mansions.  I had bought a package that would grant me entry into 5 of the 10 mansions and I had narrowed down my selection to 3 that I definitely wanted to visit and then I would decide based on time that I had available to me.  My first stop was at a place called ‘The Breakers’, which is by far the most famous of the lot and as I walked through the estate and into the grand hall, it was easy to see why.  For the next hour I took a self-guided audio tour of the mansion that was bursting with opulence in every room…every tile.  As I learned about the lifestyles of the people who lived here during the late 19^th century and what’s known as the “gilded age”, I was taken aback by how much wealth these people had.  This one belonged to the ‘Vanderbilt’s’,who were railroad tycoons, and they used this as their summer residence for 8 weeks.  During that time the lady of the house threw grand parties which usually started with dinner and ended with revelry throughout the night, after which the guests had breakfast before departing.  In today’s dollars, the expense of running this place for those 8 weeks ran into millions.  Aah, the lifestyles of the rich and famous.

I wouldn't mind this view from my house!

Next, I drove to a nearby mansion called the ‘Rosecliff’, where a guide revealed that it has been home to several ‘Hollywood’ films, including ‘The Great Gatsby’, which was not a surprise, to ‘True Lies’, which was surprising.  It took some time to see these places and I did not want to rush just to get through the 5.  My last stop was at ‘The Elms’, where another self-guided tour took me through this place and which included visits to the “servant’s quarters”.  What was interesting was that all these places had a separate hidden staircases and corridors, through which the servants moved and unless you were the head of staff, you were not allowed to be seen by the masters.  Even the cleanup had to be done pre-dawn before anyone woke up…so much so that the legend grew that all of these places were “self-cleaning” or even better, “serviced by the elves”.

My last stop before departing Newport was for lunch at a place called ‘White Horse Tavern’.  This was like your typical pub, but with some elevated food, and I had reserved a table.  As the waiter took my order, a middle-aged couple with a British accent came in and without asking me, sat down at my table for a “pint”.  The waiter came back with my food and was clearly confused, not knowing if I had invited them to join me.  I did not say anything because I found it utterly amusing, and chalked it down to one of those unique things that only happens on visits like these.  I left Newport before completing even 24 hours stay, but it seemed like I had achieved everything that I could have hoped for.  I had met amazing people, seen incredible sights, eaten delicious food and more importantly, had found hidden treasures.  This trip marked the completion of 12 states in 12 months.  Bring on year 2.

11. Washington

Month: August 2015

Location: Seattle

One of the places that I have always wanted to visit, in fact for several years, has been Seattle.  Well, that was about to change because I was headed to the great ‘Pacific Northwest’.  The previous night had been a bit…interesting, and had ended with me stumbling home; literally.  So it wasn’t quite the ideal start when I woke up after noon, just a few hours before my flight and rushed to the airport.  I had recovered considerably by the time the plane circled around Seattle and was in good spirits when I reached the hotel…even securing complimentary internet during check-in.  I was ready for the weekend.

A beautiful evening

Right off the bat, Seattle impressed me immensely.  There was a slight mist in the early evening air as I left the hotel to get a bite to eat.  Well, when I say a bite, I really mean several of them.  I went to a sushi joint called ‘Blue C Sushi’, where sushi plates were literally passing by in front of me on a conveyor belt.  All my life I had waited for something like this!  The problem was that it was sushi, one of my favorite food groups, and each plate was color coded to reflect the price.  I had a multi-colored tower of plates in front of me before I called it quits.  It was a good start.

The disgusting 'Gum Wall'

I woke up early the next morning and was on my way for a “Walking Food Tour” of the famous ‘Pike Place Market’.  It was a lovely morning as I waked through the downtown and a couple of blocks from the market, went to one of Seattle’s innumerable coffee shops, ‘Seattle Coffee Works’.  It was a charming place and as I waited, I heard an order come through for a drink with 6 shots.  When I observed that it seemed a bit excessive, the barista said that it was for a girl who works at the market and as I would soon see, she would need them this Saturday morning when the rush starts!  Well, I had certainly picked the right day.  We had been asked to go down a narrow alley and meet outside a theater.  What I didn’t know was that this theatre was also the location of the infamous ‘Gum Wall’ of Seattle.  This is a truly disgusting wall, where visitors from all around the world have stuck gum as some sort of a tribute or just for the heck of it…and I am not talking about unopened gum here.

I saw some other people who had assembled outside the theater and learned that they were in the tour party as well.  We were discussing our location and this awful spot when mercifully our guide arrived and took us inside the theater.  In the lobby we got introduced to other members of our group and our guide, Nick, told us a bit more about the wall.  Apparently it had started as a joke and cascaded into what exists today.  The theater – which is still operational – has tried pressure cleaning the wall several times, but every time they get rid of the gum, someone starts anew and it grows again, so much so that this is now the 2^nd most “germiest” place on the planet after the ‘Blarney Stone’ of Ireland.  After that illuminating conversation, Nick asked if we were ready to eat and I for one just wanted to get away from there.

The famous 'Pike Place Market'

We started off by climbing down to the base level of the market, as Nick mentioned that this was a publicly owned building and the city’s pride and joy.  As we went down the stairs, the backdrop of the ‘Puget Sound’ – Seattle is not on the ‘Pacific’ as most think – and it was a beautiful sight.  We stopped outside a coffee shop for some gluten free ‘Madeline’s’ as Nick told us about the various bars around the market and the exciting stories surrounding them.  We took an elevator to the top and exited into the heart of the market which was now starting to buzz.  Our next stop was to try an outstanding ‘Greek Yogurt with fruit’ followed by ‘Maple Bacon Donuts’ because, well, who doesn’t want a piece of that?  As expected, there was a big line for that, though being on a tour, we didn’t have to wait that long.  Nick pointed out that the tiles in the market had names and that was one of ways through which the market raised money, by selling tiles to people to put names down.  He showed us a set of tiles that had numbers on them and asked what was unique about them.  I quickly realized that they were all “primes” and pointed it out.  He said that it was true and that years ago a man had purchased a set of tiles and asked them to be labeled accordingly.  When asked why, he had said that many years prior to that, he had met his wife at this exact spot in the market and she was a 'Mathematician'.  When people ask me what I enjoy most about my travels, it is stories like this.

Looking back at the market

We stopped at a tea shop for some herbal tea and then it was off to the renowned fish stall to witness the famous “Fish toss”, perhaps the most familiar thing associated with this market.  While munching on some delicious salmon, we saw a few rounds of that and I enjoyed the enthusiasm with which they did this activity.  We then visited another popular place which makes cheese in front of everyone, followed by an artisan preserves shop, a coffee shop specializing in “croquettes” and finally a luxurious chocolate place in which I had some of the most decadent pieces of chocolate.  Our tour was at an end and Nick had been an outstanding guide who had kept us laughing, and fed us well.  He encouraged us to explore more of the market place and before departing, I asked him for some recommendations on Seattle eateries and he gave me a few pointers.  I walked past the very first ‘Starbucks’, or not, depending on who you ask.  There was a huge line waiting to get in and considering that the ‘Starbucks’ coffee is same everywhere, I thought it was bit of a stretch. But hey, whom am I to belittle tourism. By this time the market was absolutely crawling with visitors and I saw what the 'Barista' had meant earlier. Having just been a part of a food tour, you would have thought that I was all set as far as lunch was concerned, but no sir.  Nick had recommended a place nearby called ‘Seatown Seabar & Rotisserie’ and I just had to stop by for a bite.

At the 'Pacific Science Center'

I had no specific plans for the afternoon, so I started walking towards the premier landmark in Seattle, ‘The Space Needle’.  I decided to visit the science museum nearby, known as the ‘Pacific Science Center’.  As I was purchasing the ticket, the agent asked if I wanted to attend a ‘Laser Show’ while I was there.  I asked what the music was and there were different options depending on the time. Once she said that the immediate one coming up was ‘Beatles’, I was sold.  I went straight to the dome where the show was being conducted and there were several families in the line.  As soon as the doors opened, all the kids went and lay on their backs staring at the ceiling, where the laser show would be projected; while I took one of the seats as did the parents.  The show started and very soon I saw why the best place to be was as the kids were doing, on your back.  So I left my seat and did just that, staring at the ceiling as for the next 20-30 minutes my favorite songs in the world were set to a dazzling display of laser lights.  And I did not care if the adults felt that I should have been on a chair because this is the ‘Beatles’ and I was going to get maximum out of this experience.

The brilliant 'EMP Museum'

After the show I walked about the museum, including an exhibit called ‘Grossology’ which shows kids through cartoon models what happens to food once you consume it...yeah. Finally, before leaving I went for a show inside the ‘Planetarium’, which unlike the one in ‘Adler’, is a much smaller and intimate room, where everyone sits around the periphery while the show is conducted from the center and is very interactive.  After that, I came out and walked through campus that also includes another museum called ‘EMP Museum’, or ‘Experience Music Project Museum’.  Now, while the name of the museum says “music”, the place is dedicated to all things “pop culture”.  I started with an exhibit devoted to ‘Horror Movies’ and it was quite comprehensive in terms of some of the props that they had as well as various viewing stations with excerpts from some of the classic films of the genre.  After this I walked through an exhibit on ‘Star Wars’ and ‘Star Trek’ movies and another one on ‘Fantasy’ movies.  Then I visited a section on the birth of ‘Grunge’, especially the story of ‘Nirvana’.  There was even an exhibit dedicated to Chuck Jones and ‘Looney Tunes’.  But the centerpiece of the museum is a full sized stage which would be perfect for any rock concert, and it seems that they do host shows in here.

Seattle from the top of the "needle"

I left the museum and while the logical thing would have been to go on top of the ‘Space Needle’, I was going to be back later on in the evening for dinner at the revolving restaurant at the top, ‘Sky City’.  Living in Chicago I take the ‘EL’ to work every day, but for many visitors, the elevated monorail that runs from this park to the heart of downtown is an attraction.  Since it would deposit me very close to my hotel, I took the train back and went to my room to relax before the evening’s activities.  Those did not have to wait for long and I grabbed a drink at the hotel lobby bar overlooking the street and it was turning out to be a beautiful evening.  Since the train had been a good transportation from the ‘Needle’, I took it back there and having a reservation at the restaurant allowed me to skip the line for the observation deck and go straight up.  As I walked around the perimeter, the views were spectacular, and besides the downtown, included the magnificent ‘Mt. Hood’.  While I did not get the window seat at dinner, I was able to track the changing view by looking over some people. Over the course of one revolution, I concluded my meal and headed back for some well-earned shut-eye.

On the way to the island

If there is one thing Seattle is known for, its coffee, and I had signed up for a “Coffee Crawl”.  Yesterday after the food tour, Nick had given us a coupon for discounts at places around the market and I used it for breakfast at a biscuit place.  Since I had some time to spare, I walked through some of the lower levels of the market and came across some truly interesting stores, including a magic shop, which wasn’t open on Sundays.  At 10 am I arrived at our meeting spot and with a very enthusiastic group, for the next few hours went around the area near the market sampling coffee.  And this wasn’t your ‘Mocha’s’ or ‘Latte’s’, but pure coffee with no other additives – and it was great.  It was also interesting to hear about the history of each shop, including one called ‘Café Ladro’ or “The Coffee Thief”, whose background story involved a once fruitful partnership gone sour.  I also learned about how there is a competition for ‘Barista’s’ to create those foam decorations that one sees in specialty drinks, and apparently that is quite a competitive field.

The charming streets of 'Bainbridge Island'

After I had my fill of coffee, I rushed to the waterfront to catch a ferry to ‘Bainbridge Island’, a short hop away from the mainland.  The ferry itself was huge and the deck felt longer than a football field.  While initially I stayed on top to enjoy the views of the city, as we got deeper into the waters, the wind picked up and I took refuge in the lounge downstairs, studying the map and making plans for the afternoon – starting with lunch.  Some 30 odd minutes later we were at the island and I headed towards the center of the town.  There is one main street on which lie most of the businesses and I found a “hole-in-the-wall” restaurant for lunch.  One of my favorite things to do is explore small towns with charming shops and soon enough I had located an antique shop, a toy store, a memorabilia store and my absolute favorite, a book store.  After walking about each of these, I located a fudge store and bought some of the local fudge for a friend.  I chatted with the girls in the store and asked them for a place on the island that I absolutely had to visit.  They directed me towards a local ice cream shop which claims to be a famous one in the state.  I made a quick stop there before boarding a ferry back for the mainland.  ‘Bainbridge Island’ had been everything that I had anticipated, and a worthwhile expedition.  It had been a long day and rather than go to one of Nick’s recommended restaurants, I went back to ‘Blue C Sushi’ near the hotel because, well it has food on a conveyor and all that. 

Beneath the city

My last morning in Seattle was another beautiful day and I was on my way to something called an “Underground Tour”. Seattle has a vast network of underground tunnels that connect basements of many businesses.  While we roamed through the dungeons, our very enthusiastic guide told us the history of the city, when during the late 19^th century and how they had raised the downtown area after a fire and a flood.  It was a hilarious way to learn about the city and something that I would recommend to everyone.  I still had a few hours left before I had to leave for the airport and so stopped at the magnificent city library, which is an architectural marvel.  Then there was just one thing left to do – have lunch at the famous ‘Biscuit Bitch’; an artisan restaurant specializing is biscuits.  With extremely limited seating and volume of orders, I had to wait over 30 minutes and share a table, but it was well worth it.  After one last look at the market place and ‘Puget Sound’, I went to the hotel, picked up my luggage and left for the airport.  I had wanted to visit Seattle for over 10 years and had finally made it here.  As I left I knew that I had found a city I could see myself living in.  I cannot describe to anyone why I fell in love with the place, I just did.  I guess it’s true for love isn’t it?

10. Montana

Month: July 2015

Location: Whitefish & Glacier National Park

Time to get going

I am a city person, always being more comfortable in an urban jungle than the wild countryside.  But for the longest time there has been one place that I have wanted to visit, ‘Glacier National Park’ in Montana.  So I found myself waking at 2:45 am this July morning and taking the first flight out west to Kalispell, Montana.  The magnificence of the place was evident from the air with expanse of mountains spread out below me.  As can be expected from a small town, Kalispell is a very small airport and the car rental was a good few miles away.  But once I had collected the car, I was on my way to the town of Whitefish, which would serve as my base for this expedition.

As I drove through the beautiful landscape, I noticed the overcast conditions that were building up.  I arrived at my destination, a place called ‘Grouse Mountain Lodge’, which was as charming as something with “lodge” in its name would be.  I went over to the information table and encountered the least enthusiastic person that one can meet in this role.  However, she did provide me with a map to the park and the route to get there, which would be about 30 minutes of driving from my hotel to the entrance.  As I was walking to my room,I saw that there was a spa in the lodge and so I did the only thing that I could – book a massage for the next day!

The long and winding road was a bit treacherous

I had lunch at the restaurant in the lodge with one eye on the map of the park and another on the threatening skies. But I hadn’t come thousands of miles to stay in the room and so set off to the place I had come to visit.  The drive to the park is fantastic and it gets better as one approaches the "West Entrance".  I paid my entry fee, which was valid for a week, and drove to the first visitor center.  I chatted with the staff who told me about some of the trails and scenic spots.  With rain in the air, it was unlikely that I would be getting out for a walk, but what I would be doing was driving one of the most outstanding routes in the nation, the “Going To The Sun” road.  This road, which goes through the heart of the park, is 48 miles long and can be segmented in 3 parts.  The first part runs next to some fantastic locales, including a lake front where there were many areas for people to stop for pictures.  The last part leads out of the park and is pretty as well.  But what truly matters is the central section, which leads to the apex of the 'Continental Divide' which converges at a point called the ‘Logan Pass’. And that road is one of the most breathtaking places that I have ever seen in my life.

Rain or not, it was beautiful

There was a steady drizzle as I started up the mountain leading to the ‘Logan Pass’.  For the next hour I made my way up while passing some of the most gorgeous sights on this planet.  The rain and narrow road made it is bit treacherous, but I could care less.  And while it was raining, I would be damned if I was going to let it stop me from getting off for some pictures and well, just take in the view.  I reached the ‘Logan Pass’ visitor center and it was wet and chilly, meaning there was no way I was going to be doing any hiking.  I decided to come back the next day and now there was a decision facing me.  I could either go back the way I had come, which meant navigating the same treacherous conditions, or keep going on the road to the other side where I would exit the park.  Then I would have to drive the long road around the park which would take over 2 hours.

I exited the park and the weather had cleared, meaning I could breeze through the highway. While it was not as beautiful as the road inside, it was pretty nevertheless.  I passed the ‘East Gate’ as well as the sister lodge to my hotel, ‘Glacier Lodge’, and after a couple of hours found myself back in Whitefish.  The town has a charming area where all the restaurants, bars and shopping areas are located.  The rain had stopped, which was good since most of the parking spots were taken and I had to park a bit away.  I walked about a bit and saw that people had started filling up all the popular spots.  I went over to one of the places that had been recommended and after dinner, decided to come back to the room since it had been a long day of driving and an especially early one for me.

The next day was bright and clear

Next day I woke up to an incredibly sunny morning and looking outside my room window on the golf course, I saw some folks practicing their putting.  I went for my massage and after that went back to downtown and to a place called ‘Amazing Crepes’, because what kind of person would I be to not visit a place named as such!  I arrived at the park and right of the bat I knew that today would be different since there was a huge line of vehicles to get in.  I stopped at the visitors center and talked with a lady who told me to invest my hiking capital in getting to a place called ‘Hidden Lake’.  She also told me that my chances of finding parking up at ‘Logan Pass’ were next to nothing and so I should park at the base and then take a shuttle to the top.  I went to the pick-up spot and there were cars lined up end to end and it was not looking good in terms of finding parking. But then I saw this one free spot and rushed in to the chagrin of everyone behind me.

  

Straight from my dreams

On my way to the 'Hidden Lake'

I found the shuttle taking us to the top and besides me, there were a few other people, including a family who was only going part of the way since they were going to hike up to the top…and then hike back down!  I was content to enjoy the view, especially on this clear day as the shuttle made its way to the ‘Logan Pass’ visitors center.  I followed the signs to the start of the trail to the ‘Hidden Lake’ only to encounter one of the most surreal feelings on my life.  I could see the path in front of me which was winding its way up towards a pass around a mountain and I could swear that I had seen this in a dream before…many times.  It was spooky in the details that I remembered and as far as I knew, I had never seen a picture of this trail anywhere else.  I started hiking up and for part of the way; the path was made of wooden planks, like one would find on a patio. The breathtaking scenery around me made up for the tiring climb and it kept on getting better.  At one stage I turned around and the welcome center was a tiny spec in the distance.  The wooden planks had disappeared, the ground had leveled off and I was on top of the continental divide.

The visitor center was a long way behind

The overall hike to the lake is about 4 miles and includes a descent down the mountain that we had climbed and then some more.  However, about a mile and a half from the visitor center is the overlook from where one gets a magnificent view of the lake.  Considering that I had to catch a shuttle back, I had decided against hiking down to the lake, though I did travel a bit further than the observation point.  Many people were on their way down and I sat on a boulder taking in the once-in-a-lifetime view.  After some time I reluctantly got up and started on my way down, but not before picking up a rock as a souvenir from the top of the continental divide.  As I walked back, alongside me was a family of Mountain Goats, the native residents of this mountain.

The magnificent 'Hidden Lake'

Back at the visitor center, I took the shuttle back, but before getting in the car, I explored another path called ‘Trail of the Cedars’, an easy mile 1 loop which takes the hikers into the woods.  After that I drove back to Whitefish and went to the ‘Great Northern Brewing Company’ for some ‘Huckleberry Beer’ against the backdrop of the mountains.  It had been a long day and I came back to my hotel for dinner followed by an early night.  The next day dawned bright and beautiful, though it was also time for me to leave.  I went to another local favorite, ‘Loula’s’ for breakfast and then drove back to drop my car off and take the shuttle to the airport.  I had bought some ‘Huckleberry Jam’ as a present and the ‘TSA’ proceeded to confiscate that, saying that it was above the permissible limit for carry-on “liquids”.  First of all, I did not know that jam classified as a liquid, but seeing that the ‘TSA’ officer was more despondent that he had to do this to me, I let it pass  Plus, I could buy another one in the gift shop right past the security.  As I left Montana I reflected on the wonders that I had seen over the last couple of days.  I am not a poet, not by any means.  But I wish I was, since that’s the only way that I can describe the beauty of the place. I had not made it all the way to the shores of the 'Hidden Lake', but surely some day I will return. I must return.

9. Minnesota

Month: June 2015

Location: Minneapolis

It was the weekend after my birthday and I was headed to Minneapolis.  Just like St. Louis I would only be there for a night and like my visit there, I had no major plans…well except one.  I arrived at the airport and took a long walk to the train station.  Unlike St. Louis, I did buy a ticket, though the train didn’t quite make it to the downtown due to some construction and I had to take the bus for rest of the way.  After getting off at what I thought was the right stop, I walked the next few blocks to my hotel. 

The 'Minneapolis Institute of Art'

One thing common with all these travels is me looking for a place to have brunch as soon as I arrive, and this time it was a trendy place called ‘Heyday’.  After being truly welcomed to Minneapolis by a couple of cocktails, I asked the server for recommendations and was told to check out the ‘Minneapolis Institute of Art’, which was free for visitors.  It was a short walk to get there and I traversed through a neighborhood before arriving at a building with looked unmistakably like an art museum.  Over the course of the next couple of hours I walked through the impressive corridors of the museum, which is a combination of the old and the modern.  However, the thing which really got my attention was an exhibit which showcased photographs, one from every year of the last 100 years.

One of my favorite things to do is visit Cathedrals to light candles and there was one over here that I wanted to see.  I called for a cab to take me to ‘Basilica of Saint Mary’ and it looked beautiful from the outside.  It was equally pretty on the inside, though I was asked to leave since a wedding was in progress.  I started walking back towards the downtown, headed towards the ‘Nicollet Mall’ area.  Not only does this have shopping and dining options, it also has the famous Minneapolis ‘Skyway’ - A labyrinth of overhead walkway system that connects the entire downtown area.

The incredible sights of the 'Skyway'

I entered a mall and for next hour wandered a system of what seems like never-ending corridors that go through office buildings, hotels, shopping arcades, food courts and everything but someone’s living quarters.  Now, I have been in Chicago’s “Pedway” system.  But what these guys have done is commercialized this by incorporating all the business’ as a part of the walkway.  Being a Saturday, it wasn’t crowded, but I saw its potential and would love to see one of these in Chicago – and no, the ‘Pedway’ doesn’t count. 

After a bit of exploring, I took the walkway all the way to my hotel and prepared for my next destination – “Escape The Room Minneapolis”, a game I have played in multiple cities.  Over here it was called “Mr. Dupree’s Office”!  I arrived at the location and was given a “confidential” file to review.  The rest of my team arrived and unlike the youngsters from my previous game in NYC, these folks were middle-aged couples looking for an adventure.  We went inside and for the next one hour navigated a very complicated game and while we made some significant breakthroughs, fell short with the finish line in sight.  It looks like after starting 5-0, I had gone downhill, losing 3 in a row. 

My last stop for the day was at a restaurant called ‘La Belle Vie’, which is an immaculate place with the kind of décor and service that I like and appreciate.  After a long but satisfying meal, I settled in for the night and as is usually the case, the next morning started with me trying to figure out where to go for brunch.  After reading about the neighboring places I settled on something called ‘Newsroom’, which was decorated like a 20’s gangster spot meets sports bar.  I should have known something was amiss when I walked into an empty place.  I sat at the bar and ordered something which on examination looked completely stale.  When I pointed it out the barman and asked to return it, he hardly seemed surprised; which was a sad reflection on that place.  Typically I would have just bitten my lip and settled for something else there, but I decided to go try another place which was called ‘Hell’s Kitchen’, and no, this has nothing to do with Gordon Ramsey.  What it did have were people…lots of them; and an infectious vibe.  Amidst the live music I had a great brunch, including something called “Sausage Bread”.  Finally, someone figured it out! 

The ruins of the 'Flour Museum'

Minneapolis has a nice riverfront and I walked over to it and went down the bridge to the park area where several people and their dogs were either walking, running or riding a bike – the last activity done by people, not the dogs.  As I walked along the riverside, I passed a dam on my left and realized that it was my 3^rd visit to the ‘Mississippi River’ in 4 months, having seen it in Missouri and Louisiana in March and April respectively.  In fact I learned later on that this was the only dam on the ‘Mississippi’.  I started to cross what looked like an old stone bridge, but noticed on the right some ruins that had a sign called “Flour Mill Museum”.  I decided to investigate and walked down to the ruins which not have been out of place as remnants of Medieval Europe.  It was indeed a museum and I as I went inside, I learned that it was a museum dedicate to flour.  Talk about commercialization!

They had an interesting setup where all of us were put on a seating area inside a giant service elevator and were taken up and down 8 floors, as they told us the story about this mill, including the explosion and a fire that had resulted in the ruins that we see today.  Someone then decided to build a museum here and I am glad that they did, since it is brilliant.  I enjoyed some of the tidbits I learnt, such as the difference between various grains and flours, how the dam was built on the river, a brief video on history of Minneapolis and a visit to the top of the museum tower for a fantastic view of the 'Mississippi'. 

Inside the 'Mall of America'

I still had some time to spare before my flight and so went to visit what is undoubtedly the most famous place, just on the outskirts of the city, ‘The Mall of America’.  Now, this is not unlike any other mall, just big…very big.  In fact it’s so huge that there are giant sized amusement park rides at the heart of the mall.  I walked about, taking in the vastness of the place, before taking a train back to the airport.  I had been in Minneapolis for just a day and a half, but I had enjoyed my time here thoroughly.  I mean, it’s not everyday that I get to eat something called “Sausage Bread” and visit a museum celebrating that food group!

8. New York

Month: May 2015

Location: Manhattan

“He adored New York City. He idolized it all out of proportion.  Uh, no, make that: He-he... romanticized it all out of proportion.  He was too romantic about Manhattan as he was about everything else.”

So says the character of Woody Allen, ‘Isaac’   in one of the all-time great movies, ‘Manhattan’.  While not as obsessed as him, I too love New York – henceforth any reference to New York means New York City and by that I mean Manhattan.  One of my favorite things to do is go to NYC for ‘Memorial Day’ weekend and then cap the summer by re-visiting over the ‘Labor Day’ weekend.  This was the first of those visits.

Manhattan!

I landed at ‘LaGuardia’ airport in the morning and took a cab to my ‘Midtown Hotel’.  I dumped my luggage and then hopped on a train to my first destination, ‘Katz’s Delicatessen’, one of the premier deli’s in NYC, if not the country.  They have a strange system here, where as soon as you come in, you are given a numbered ticket.  Then, as you order, they write that on the ticket, which is also marked after you pay. After that, you are only allowed to leave when you hand-in your ticket.  I do not understand it, but it’s clear that you should hang on to your ticket for dear life.  After figuring out the system I joined the huge line and placed the order at the counter, which in itself was a task and a half.  Then it was getting a table, but after a few bumps I managed to find a community table that I shared with a family.  The food was definitely worth the wait and the navigation through the crowd.  Plus I had kept my ticket and so was able to exit successfully.

My next stop this afternoon was just a few blocks away, where I was playing “Escape The Room NY” game.  There are 5 rooms in the city and I had already “escaped” successfully from 3 of them, as I had in Nashville and Chicago.  For this trip I had signed up for the remaining 2 rooms and this afternoon I was attempting the first one.  I arrived at the location and I was early…way early.   They send me off to a nearby bar called ‘Schillers’, which is one of those charming places with black and white tiles.  After spending the next hour getting to know a couple of cocktails, I came back to the room in a happier frame of mind!  I got to know my teammates, who were young and when they heard about my experience, were looking at me for guidance.  We tried our best and worked well, but were beaten by the clock, just a couple of minutes away from escaping.  The room itself was called “The Theatre” and was a great layout for a game like this.

Twilight on the 'Highline'

After mentioning to the folks that I would be back, I set off to walk down ‘Bleeker Street’ to a place called ‘Bantam Bagels’, which I had seen on the show ‘Sharktank’  After a walk of 30 minutes or so I arrived to see that the place was closed.  Well, I just kept going on towards a place which I had never been to in all my visits, ‘The Highline’.  I had read about this on ‘Chicago Riverwalk Project’ website and was looking forward to the visit.  Essentially the ‘Highline’ was an elevated rail line that supplied the ‘Chelsea Market’.  After decommissioning, it was condemned to deterioration, till a group calling themselves “Friends of the Highline” came together to rescue it.  The rails stayed, but a walkway was built around it with gardens and now it was transformed into one of the prime location for real estate.  In fact, condos around this place are some of the most expensive in the neighborhood.  I joined the ‘Highline’ at its Southern point on ‘Gavenport’ street and as I went upstairs, I saw that there were a lot of people who had come out to enjoy the late afternoon sunshine.  As I walked the length of the ‘Highline’ - all the way to the 34^th street - I passed by artists, food stations, gardens and seats acting as viewing areas for people.  It was definitely a place that I was glad to have found.

After navigating through the crowd that is perpetually surrounding ‘Time Square’, I arrived at my hotel for a shower, before heading out for dinner at ‘Atera’, a restaurant I had heard a lot about.  I arrived almost 45 minutes early in order to wait at the bar, but since they do not have a lounge, I was directed to a nearby place called ‘B-Flat Bar’, which is underground, and one has to enter through a dimly lit stairway.  I had a cocktail and then went for my dinner, which comprised of 18 or 20 courses, served with impeccable style and service.  I say 18 or 20 because I had opted for a wine pairing and so lost track of what happened towards the end!

The sinful 'Frozen Hot Chocolate'

The next day dawned with me regretting my decision to go for the wine pairing, but I had to recover fast since I had plans.  I was on my way to the East side towards ‘Serendipity 3’.  All my Saturday’s in NYC follow a pattern and it starts with their famous ‘Frozen Hot Chocolate’.  I arrived before the opening at 11:30 am and there was already a line. In little less than an hour I was on my way, having had my share of the chocolate goodness. I set off for the long walk to my favorite place in NYC, ‘Cathedral of St. John’s The Divine’.  I crossed over to the West Side and then walked up the length of ‘Broadway’, from the ‘59^th Street’ to the ‘110^th’, stopping at some of my usual spots like a small park that’s hidden between buildings and ‘Westside Market’, which I just like for its organization.  I was in a hurry though, since I had a tour to get to.

The group had already gathered when I reached the cathedral and I joined them for a ‘Verticals Tour’ , which was essentially an expedition that would take us all the way to the ceiling…and beyond.  We huffed and puffed around the narrow spiral staircase to the first stop, which was the balcony overlooking the main floor of the cathedral.  I had been here previously and now we went even higher, to appreciate some of the “stained-glass windows”.  What was amazing that what appeared to be small figures as you looked from the base were actually life sized images when you got closer.  We continued climbing to over the ceiling that is visible from the inside, and then climbed beyond it to the roof, with incredible views of Manhattan.  Everything that goes up must come down and with the remains of my heart in my mouth, I came down and for the next 45 minutes or so I walked about the cathedral, sat down and also lighted some candles. 

One of my favorite locations in NYC: 'Central Park'

I left the cathedral and went down the ‘110^th street’ to the Northwest end of ‘Central Park’.  And then I was off.  After all these years I have formulated a path through the park, all the way down to the South side, but often find myself getting lost.  I walked past the ‘Onassis Reservoir’ and for the first time visited the ‘Belvedere Castle’ before ending up on the ‘Mall’. Finally, I emerged from the park after over 2 hours and headed to my hotel for freshening up.  For dinner I was going to a Japanese place called ‘Brushstroke’, which was a nice and pleasant affair.  One of my courses was a ‘Lobster Rice’ and they brought out a pot of the finished product to show me, before bringing out a small serving.  Then I learned that the entire pot was mine and so I found myself carrying leftovers.

Sunday morning started with a breakfast of ‘Lobster Rice’, well because that’s what I do!  I was headed back to the ‘Escape The Room’ game for trying the last of the rooms in NY, ‘The Apartment’.  Once again, I was grouped with a lot of youngsters and we worked well together.  I impressed them when I cracked an important clue and like a couple of days ago, we were seconds away from opening the door, failing at the last clue because none of us spoke ‘Spanish’.  I had failed on this trip to escape either of the rooms, but it had been excellent sessions.

Now that's a real pizza!

I walked up ‘Bleeker Street’ to ‘Bantam Bagel’ and not only were they open for business, but their bagel bites were just as good as advertised.  However, the main reason for me to go to ‘Bleeker Street’ was to get a slice at ‘Bleeker Street Pizza’.  Now let me be clear about something.  There is a constant debate on “New York vs Chicago Style Pizza”.  For me there is no discussion.  New York has pizza.  Chicago makes an egg-less quiche!  It was as great as I remembered it and the best $3 that I have spent in a long time.  It may be becoming more obvious that I am a creature of habit and what follows the pizza is a stop at the famous ‘Strand’ bookstore.  I had first visited this place several years ago and had been taken in with its layout, with aisles of stacked shelves and also books on floors.  Last year I had found a book hidden amongst some bigger ones and it was short stories on coincidences.  I bought that and then a week later had left it on a plane.  Later that year as I visited NY and ‘Strand’, on a hunch I looked in the same place and found a copy of the same book.  After all, it is about coincidences.

After spending some time here, I was next headed to one of the hidden treasures of NY, ‘Rice To Riches’, which celebrates this humble dessert and elevates it to gourmet status.  I got my usual guilty pleasure, which is the ‘Mascarpone & Cherries’ with a topping of ‘pound cake’.  I found a table and thoroughly enjoyed this concoction before proceeding to ‘Broadway’, and headed downtown.  I had some time to spare and so stopped over at a wonderful ‘Asian’ store that had all sorts of delights.  I picked up a few things and then continued down to my destination, which is one of the best museum, educational institutions and tribute that I have had the privilege of visiting - the ‘9/11 Museum’ built at ‘Ground Zero’.

The magnificent '9/11 Museum' 

The first time that I came here a year ago, I had spent time at the giant fountains that mark the locations of the fallen towers. Those by themselves are fantastic, but the real treasure lies beneath them…7 floors down.  That time I had not been able to get a ticket to go down, but had made up for it a few months later and was absolutely floored by what I had seen.  After going down the long escalator, one enters a lobby, which then leads down a spiral ramp, all the way to the very foundation of the two towers.  At the base, in the main gallery are various exhibits, including a Firetruck that was at the site of the collapse, a piece of the antenna from the ‘South Tower’ and the last pillar to be removed from the site as it became a symbol of hope during the cleanup.  The gallery itself is quite solemn but nothing prepares you for the room under the ‘North Tower’, which showcases a minute-by-minute account of what happened that day.  The entire recreation of that day is difficult to see, but a valuable resource for generations to come.  Under the ‘South Tower’ is a tribute to all of the fallen from that day with photographs and biographical histories.  As sat on a bench looking at the wall with Virgil’s quote, I was reminded of the how much many sacrificed that day, and the innocence that has been lost forever.

I took a train back to the hotel and that evening I was going to the best restaurant in the country, ‘Eleven Madison Park’.  I took a train to the famous ‘Flatiron building’ and walked across the park to the restaurant.  The service in this place is impeccable and I had a wonderful experience, even getting invited for a tour of their famous kitchen and being presented with an ‘ice globe’ that was made in front of me at a special table.  To me it still remains one of the best dining experiences out there.

Inside 'Chelsea market'

My last morning in NYC involved a 3 hour walking “Food Tour” of the famous ‘Chelsea Market’.  I had first visited this place last year and had been impressed by the layout and the variety of options available.  I arrived just before 9 am and was soon joined by our tour guide and other visitors.  For the next 3 hours we visited many eating places, tasted a lot of good food and even visited the ‘Highline’ once again.  Plus we learnt a lot about the history of this place and how it is now the headquarters for ‘Food Network’.  Well, even ‘MLB’ has an office here.  At noon the tour was over and I still had some time to spare.  I went to one of my favorite ‘Food Courts’ on ‘58^th Street’ and ‘5^th Avenue’ and had some wine before going back to the hotel and catching a cab to the airport.

It had been a wonderful trip.  I have been visiting NYC for a long time and every time I find some new delight.  This time it was the ‘Highline’.  Plus, I will never tire of my trip on the ‘Upper West Side’ to the cathedral and my trip down south through the park.  I love this city and I feel that I know it a bit now.  I think that ‘Isaac’ could well have been speaking for me.

"New York was his town, and it always would be."

-   Manhattan, 1979