15. Texas

Month: December 2015

Location: Austin

When one thinks about Texas, images of oil rigs and cattle and cowboys pop into one’s head.  So it’s ironic that the city which is the State’s capital is as close to a “hipster town” as one can find in the Deep South.  I had been to Austin twice before; but those had either been work related visits or I was just passing through.  I had missed out on all the things the city is knows for – its vibrant lifestyle, incredible cuisine and of course, the music scene.  So, picking Austin as my Texas destination was a no-brainer idea.  Plus December seemed like an ideal time of the year to go there.

"Gingerbread Houses" in the hotel lobby

I arrived in Austin without much in terms of planning, besides a couple of activities for Saturday.  It was early evening and as I checked into my hotel, I was told that I was being upgraded to the “Executive Floor”, and one of the perks of that was an entry to their lounge where some sort of “Happy Hour” was already in progress.  I dropped off my stuff in the room and arrived at this lounge, which was an extremely respectable place, with a nice view of the city.  Plus it had a good spread of cheese and a delicious dip.  After sampling a few goodies, I hit the town.  My destination was…a Garage.

Yes, this is a Garage...and a bar

Being the city it is, Austin has some very interesting spots, one of them being a cocktail lounge called the ‘Garage Cocktail Bar’.  The reason it is called so is because it is inside a Parking Garage…a fully functional Parking Garage.  Even with a ‘GPS’ in my hand, I missed the entrance couple of times and no wonder why.  It looks like any other Parking Garage and only close examination of a sign points you to the bar inside.  Even as you walk towards the bar, it seems like a normal garage.  Only when I entered inside, was I greeted by the buzz of a typical “Happy Hour” crowd and the revelry was truly underway.  I had to wait for a bit till I could secure a seat at the bar and I proceeded to order a drink called “The Indian Paintbrush”, voted as the “Best Cocktail in Austin”; and it truly was.  I spent some time in there and truly enjoyed the ambiance that can only be found in a craft cocktail lounge.  It was a great start to my trip.

Austin music scene

Next, I walked over to another busy part of town and a place called ‘Péché’, where I just had to order a drink called “Absinthe God”.  As I sat at the bar – which looked like something out of a movie – I was able to observe the bartenders make their drinks.  None looked better than a liqueur based whipped cream which was hand shaken and was meant to go on top of an alcoholic coffee. I almost ordered that one for myself, but I was headed for dinner.  My destination was a place called ‘Barley Swine’, which for the lack of a better word is fine dining done in a “hipster” – there’s that word again – way.  After dinner my night wasn’t yet done, for if there is one thing that is an absolutely must in Austin, it is to go and see ‘Live Music’.  I went to a place called ‘Brass House’ and for the next few hours enjoyed some really good jazz music.  As I had a cocktail called “The Great Fire of 1776”, I saw a group of people who looked like they had stepped off the set of “The Great Gatsby”.  Every now and then, a few of them would disappear in the back and I could only imagine what was going on over there.  But I was more concerned with what was on the stage and it was really good.  It was well past midnight before I returned back to my room, happy with the way the evening had gone.

Morning view from the "Executive Lounge"

I started the next day with a complimentary breakfast at the “Executive Lounge” and boy was that upgrade paying off.  This morning I had signed up for a guided tour called “Austin Detours”.  The departure was from “Austin Visitor’s Center”, which was right next door to my hotel.  I arrived to see that people had started assembling, though many were on a different tour.  Soon our guide, Sonny, arrived and there were just 4 others on the tour besides me.  As we did introductions, I learned that a young couple on the tour was not only from Chicago, they lived a block away from me!  Sonny was a…you know, the “H-word” and a very cool guy. He guided us to a van, which would be our vehicle for this tour.

'Graffiti Park'

As I took my seat up front, Sonny passed us a laminated sheet which had some interesting facts about Austin and we learnt that it is one of the fastest growing cities, and a popular destination for young professionals.  We started with a drive around the main street and then our first stop was the ‘Capitol Building’.  We parked and walked over to the building which looked majestic.  All though this, Sonny was regaling us with tales regarding history of Austin, especially the “Independence War” and Austin’s struggle to stay as the capital of Texas.  We walked about a bit inside the building and then continued on towards the ‘University of Texas’ campus.  We did not get off there, but we did so at the fantastic ‘Graffiti Park at Castle Hill’.

Postcard from Austin

Back in the day someone bought a lot of property for real estate development and that never quite made it.  As it was lying abandoned, someone started doing graffiti work on the walls and the city rather than pay for security or cleanup, opened this place up for public art.  Now, it’s an arena for artist’s to express themselves and a popular tourist destination.  We got off the van and posed for a few pictures, before proceeding for a drive through of some of the more expensive residential properties, and a photograph at the famous  “Austin Postcard”.  Sonny also showed us the location of the very first ‘Whole Foods’ and told us how the small property had been destroyed in a flood.  The owners thought that it was it for the business, till hundreds of their neighbors stopped by to help clean-up and save “their store”.  Well, the rest as they say is history.

Some of the sights

One of the other things that Austin is renowned for is “Food Trucks” and it is a part of the city’s culture.  Sonny drove us around some areas with these trucks and we even stopped at one location where he treated us to a “Cake Pop” at a place called ‘Holy Cacao’.  We drove on one of the more “trendier” streets of Austin, where people come for food, shopping and music, and in another of his great stories, he pointed out the famous “I love you so much” wall, which was a heartfelt message on the side of a Café and has now become an Austin landmark. Our tour was almost at an end, but not before we drove over the famous “Bat Bridge” of Austin, where millions of bats come to nest and then we were done.  I asked Sonny for some barbeque recommendations and he referred me to a place called ‘Ironworks’.  It wasn’t too far from my hotel and after I had demolished a sampler platter, there was only one thing left to do that afternoon – take a nap.

Being locked up with 8 teenage girls felt like this!

It was a lovely evening as I headed to what is becoming a regular activity during my travels – “Escape The Room” game.  As I waited in the reception area, I saw a group of teenagers come in and the noise level immediately went up a few decibels.  Soon, my worst fears were realized - this would be my team for the evening.  It was one of the girl's 16^th birthday and she had invited 20 of her friends for this activity – something that I commend since they could easily have gone to some arcade.  They split the groups in 2 teams and I was assigned 8 teenagers, including the birthday girl.  Before I was locked in with them, I got a sympathetic “Good luck” from the girl’s mother and I knew it was not for the game itself.  For the next hour I endured non-stop screaming for every clue that we uncovered, every object that we found and for all other reasons.  At one stage, we were watching a surveillance footage on a computer and as a person appeared on camera, all of them screamed in unison and I thought this is how it must have been at a ‘Beatles’ concert back in the day.  There was, however, one of them who would seek out my counsel and I had a good working rapport with her.  With some help from me and a whole lot of dumb luck, we managed to escape in 57 odd minutes.  After a team picture, I saw a group of 3 moms who had been waiting and they seemed to be enjoying my harrowed appearance.  I said that next time I expected them to be in there, though to be fair, the girls had done a good job.

'Texas History Museum'

Since it was a pleasant evening, I decided to walk back to downtown and passed through a crowd who had assembled for some sort of street music festival.  My destination was one of the historic hotels in Austin, called ‘The Driskill’ and especially their bar.  I had to wait for a bit, before having “Batini”, named the “official drink of Austin”.  Now, as far as Austin drinks go, I still preferred the “Indian Paintbrush”.  I walked over to my dinner destination at a dimly lit and overpriced place called ‘Congress’, which certainly wasn’t one of the better meals that I have had during my travels.  Just as last night, I was going to stop by for some music, this time at a place called ‘Elephant Room’.  I had to wait for a bit before I could get into something like a “Dive Bar”, with $1 bills stapled to the walls as its main décor.  While the music was decent, it wasn’t as good as before and even the people weren’t as friendly.  I didn’t stay as long as I would typically have and headed back to my hotel. 

The next morning I did not need an early start since my first stop was at a brunch place called ‘Lambert’s Downtown Barbeque’ where fortunately, the meal was much better than last night’s.  There was some time before my departure, and so I took advantage of the good weather to walk to the ‘Texas History Museum’.  It is one of the better museums that I have seen and they had some terrific exhibits as relates to the ‘Independence War’, ‘Civil War’, the Texas Oil Industry as well as the Space Program in Houston.  It was a great way to end my trip, which had been memorable to say the least.  I collected my stuff and headed back to the airport in the late afternoon, thinking that there is so much more to Austin than I had experienced in this short visit.  It is a fascinating place and truly a cultural oasis in the otherwise stoic Texas. I for one, will certainly be back.

14. Georgia

Month: November 2015

Location: Atlanta

I had first heard of Atlanta as a kid, because my Dad had once visited his cousin who lived there.  The cousin was a “legendary” figure, being the first in the family to travel to the US and as such, Atlanta had achieved a “mythical” status as well.  Then came the ‘Olympics’ in 1996 and all the prestige that accompanies that honor.  So when my friends suggested that I go to Savannah as my Georgia destination, I said no.  There was no doubt that I wanted to go to an “Olympic City”, the very first that I would visit.

My first view of downtown

I arrived in the early evening and made my way to the airport train station, which deposited me in downtown within 20 minutes.  The escalator to get from the subway to the street level is one of the steepest that I have seen and it seemed much lower than the subway of Chicago.  Emerging from the station, I looked for my Hotel and it wasn’t that far.  I had been able to secure a great deal at the ‘Ritz Carlton’ and it was as grand of a venue as I had imagined.  I had dinner reservations, but enough time to grab a drink in the Hotel restaurant.  I was an elegant place with a gentleman bartender and a relaxed start to the evening.  I took an ‘Uber’ to a restaurant called ‘Aria’ and was shown to a bar area where I ordered a cocktail named “The Stray Cat”!  Following this I went to an exquisite dining area where for the next couple of hours I was able to enjoy some excellent food in a nice ambience.  I returned back to the hotel and called it a night, having a big day ahead of me.

The 'Olympic Park'

The next morning had a nice autumn chill in the air and I took the train to a charming neighborhood.  My destination was a local breakfast spot called ‘Flying Biscuit Café’.  It was a typical neighborhood café with some amazing ‘Southern’ breakfast fare and well worth the detour.  I came back to downtown and walked over to the ‘Centennial Olympic Park’, which is at the heart of all the tourist attractions in Atlanta.  Built for ‘Olympics’, currently it acts as a site for general enjoyment of the public, including hosting concerts and fireworks.  Presently it had been decorated for the holidays and I could see a giant ‘Christmas Tree’, as well as other lights streaming the trees.

My first stop was ‘World of Coca Cola’, which is ‘Coca Cola Museum’ and one of the more popular destinations in the city.  I had purchased something called ‘VIP Tour’ which came with a guide I suppose.  As soon as you approach the building, you are greeted by giant bottles, a theme which continues in the lobby.  Our tour guide gathered all the folks in my party and asked what our favorite beverage was.  Now, I should have guessed that she was referring to a ‘Coca Cola’ product, but I said “Champagne”, at which she responded “Oh, we don’t make that”.  Nice start to the tour.

With the 'Coca Cola Bear'

We were taken to a room where another gentleman came over to talk about the history of the company.  Then we walked into an auditorium and for the next 4 minutes, saw an outstanding film which signifies ‘Coca Cola’s’ philosophy towards the product and the marketing campaign that they have always run – one that taps into on the “human” element rather than a “commercial” one.  Equal parts touching, funny and inspirational, it is perhaps the best film that I have ever seen for a product and at the end, when the screen went up for all of us to walk into the central atrium, we did so with our spirits lifted and excited for the remainder of the experience.  I recommend this to anyone who visits Atlanta, whether they like soda or not.

The famous vault

The big hall that we were in opens up to the various other parts of the museum, but I could not proceed unless I had taken a picture with everyone’s favorite ‘Polar Bear’.  Many others had the same idea and once all the pictures had been taken, we were taken through another hallway, which went further into the history on how the recipe was developed, the espionage behind it and how that has led to an empire.  Finally, we were shown the world-famous vault, behind which lies this coveted recipe from over 100 years ago.  The tour continued with a story and exhibits on ‘Coca Cola’s’ involvement in pop-culture, especially sports; and being in an “Olympic City”, they showed us the various torches that have lit the “Olympic Flame” and I even got to pose with the 1996 torch.  The final stop was in their huge “tasting room”, where there are hundreds of ‘Coca Cola’ products from all over the world and you can have as much as you want.  Well, after a few sips I knew that I would not last long, since most of the world prefers their drinks sweet…way to sweet.  Of all the things that I tasted there, the best was ‘Thums Up’, the brand I grew up drinking in India.  Before I left the facility, I was given a commemorative ‘Coca Cola’ bottle as a souvenir.

Looking down at the 'CNN' newsfloor

I had tickets to some known as “Imagination Nights” at the nearby ‘Georgia Aquarium’, but that wasn’t till 4 pm and I had a few hours to kill.  So I crossed the park to enter the ‘CNN’ building – another Atlanta institution – and got tickets for a tour of the studios.  The tour started at the top level, meaning I boarded another one of Atlanta’s steep escalators.  The tour itself was an inside look at how news broadcast is produced and showed us some of the tricks that they use, such as the “Green Screens” for weather.  We also took a look at some of their studios and I definitely left with a deeper appreciation of the skill that is required to produce a good news broadcast.

Under the giant tank

I waited in the food court of the building, until it was time to go to the Aquarium.  The light was starting to fade and the holiday lights in the park were being turned on.  I walked past an ice rink and saw a demonstration of a ‘Keurig’ machine for ‘Coca Cola’ products…because that’s what we need more of in our households!  I entered the aquarium and was just in time for the “Dolphin Show” which was in an arena consisting of a huge pool.  The show was amazing, as was the rest of my stay at the aquarium, the highlight of which was a moving walkway that takes visitors underneath a giant tank, with aquatic creatures literally swimming above you.

I emerged from the aquarium to see that the park was now full of visitors and the holiday lights were looking spectacular, especially the 'Christmas Tree'.  The evening was pleasant, as was the walk back to my hotel.  After a quick change and a cocktail in the same restaurant as before, I took an ‘Uber’ to a restaurant names ‘Bacchanalia’, which is comfortable hidden at the back of a store.  Anyone passing by would have no idea that there was a restaurant here unless they were looking for it.  After another exciting meal, I came back to my room and retired.

The park under the holiday lights

Inside 'Georgia Dome'

Month’s ago, when I had decided to come to Atlanta, I was debating between 2 weekends that I could have picked.  I chose this one because that allowed me to attend a ‘NFL’ game between the ‘Atlanta Falcons’ and the visiting ‘Indianapolis Colts’.  I checked out  of my hotel and after a breakfast at a Southern establishment called ‘Juke Joint’, walked over to the ‘Georgia Dome’ stadium amidst thousands of other fans.  While they were in a higher section, I had great seats, since they were on the 50 yard line.  I had arrived early enough and stadium was quite empty.  But it soon filled up and for the next 3 hours, as the game ebbed and flowed, I was caught between the constant chatter of the fans of both teams.  While the home team lost, it had been a great experience, but now it was time to head back.  I returned to the hotel – passing by an established which had the minimalist but brilliant name of ‘Coffee & Cocktails’.  Before catching the train to the airport there was one last thing to do.  I asked the barman at the lobby bar for an opener and drank from the souvenir bottle that I had received yesterday.  I would not have been able to take it with me in the carry-on luggage.  I took the subway to the airport and the unique way that the terminals are designed in Atlanta meant that I had to walk almost a mile to get to my gate.  It is so long that the walk actually takes you through some museum exhibits.  It had been a short, but productive visit.  I had now visited an “Olympic City” and at ‘Coca Cola’, had seen a film to cherish. That's a win for sure.

13. Nevada

Month: October 2015

Location: Las Vegas

Yeah.  I went to Vegas and you know “What happens in Vegas…”

Well, ok I suppose I must document, since this is after all a part of my travels.  But we must first go back a few years.  When I was in graduate school, I made lifelong friends.  People who are my closest family and over the years there have been several occasions where we have gotten together for parties, birthday’s and have even gone on vacations together.  Recently those trips have included families and as can be expected, most of the activities were geared towards kids.  But now it was my buddy Som’s birthday and all the guys had received permission to travel for a “boys only” weekend in Vegas.  After months of planning – well, the talking took months, actual planning much less - we were on our way.

Vegas!

Som, who lives in Connecticut, and I had planned our travel such that his flight from Hartford would connect at Chicago, where I would join him and then we could fly out to Vegas together.  I arrived at the gate to see that my buddy was already there and he suggested that we start our expedition at the airport bar.  Why not?  After all we were headed to Vegas!  That which started at the airport, continued on the plane and about 4 hours later, we found ourselves staring down at the bright neon light of the Las Vegas strip.  As soon as you exit the plane, you are greeted by ‘Slot Machines’ right at the gate area.  I do not know what compels someone to start gambling as soon as they get off a plane or right up to when they get on one, but whatever.  It is Vegas after all.

Our hotel lobby

The ride from the airport to the strip isn’t long and our cab driver made it shorter with his maniacal driving.  We were headed towards ‘Aria Resorts’, which would be our hotel for the next 3 days.  Now, this is a huge place.  It took us the same time to get around the property to the drop-off point, as it took to get there and once off the cab, the valet whisked our luggage away, saying that it will be delivered to our room.  We checked-in and met up with our 2 other buddies who had arrived earlier that day.  I have had my share of travels and hotels, but nothing compared to this one in size.  The walk from the elevators to our room was a hike and our room itself was more modern than any other that I have been in, complete with remote controlled drapes and other such devices.  But if there one place in Vegas that people spend least time in, it is the hotel room. We would not be too different.

It was close to 11 pm local time – 1 pm my time – when we went to one of the dozen restaurants in our hotel for dinner and it was well past midnight when we hit the strip.  I have always imagined that being on the Las Vegas strip is like being at a 24 hour carnival.  There are flashing lights all around – no matter whether day or night – and sidewalks are crowded at all hours.  Plus there is “stuff” happening everywhere – at minimum street performers and the famous “Vegas Showgirls”.  One definitely loses a sense of time and so did we.  It was almost 5 am when we got back and we capped off the night by having breakfast before bed.  Yeah, it can only happen in Vegas.

The Chocolate Fountain...

As expected, we got a late start the next day and after some much needed coffee, we found the hotel buffet.  Now, visiting the buffet in Vegas is some sort of “rite of passage”, though for the life of me I don’t know why.  People overeat for the sake of doing it and the inevitable lethargy sets in. That’s exactly what happened to us and we found ourselves spending better part of the afternoon in our room.  We had been joined by another one of our buddies and in the early evening the 5 of us took the shuttle train from our hotel to one of the crown jewels of Las Vegas strip, ‘Bellagio’.  Our hotel, ‘Aria’ was very modern and as good as it gets.  But walking down the hallways of 'Bellagio', one of my buddies pointed out how this place just screams of old world opulence. We came across a big area which had been decorated in Fall colors, with giant Pumpkins and all things that make Autumn great.  However, I was soon distracted when I saw a pastry shop with “Chocolate Fountains” in the display window.  The place was called ‘Jean-Philippe Patisserie’ and over there, I had what in my opinion, is one of the best ‘Crème Brule’ that I have ever tasted.  Now, I have had a lot of those in my time and this one could handily beat many of the restaurant made versions of the dessert.

...and the real one

No trip to the ‘Bellagio’ is complete without a stop to watch the magnificent fountains at the front of the hotel.  This is a world-renowned attraction that draws millions to see the spectacular show every 30 minutes or so.  We found a good spot and thoroughly enjoyed a rendition of Elvis’ “Viva Las Vegas” set to the dancing fountains and light show.  The evening had just set in and the strip was coming alive.  While a few of my buddies went over to some other attractions, Som and I made our way back to our hotel since the final member of our squad had arrived.  We met him in the lobby and for the next couple of hours he introduced me to new flavors of ‘Whiskey’ and ways of tasting it!  He also proposed that we try and get into one of the exclusive Vegas clubs, which is much easier said than done; but he asked us to leave it to him.

We were headed to a club in "Paris'...hotel that is

After a Chinese dinner, which was way too expensive than it should have been, we went over to ‘Chateau’, a nightclub in 'Paris’ hotel.  Our buddy’s idea of getting us in was ordering an outrageously expensive bottle service and I was reminded of the famous saying that if you are ever paying for bottle service, then you probably do not deserve it.  It was a decent club and we got good seats, but after a couple of hours I was ready to leave…as were a few others.  We still had a better part of the bottle to get through and thankfully no one proposed that we finish it in the next 5 minutes, though someone did try!  We took a cab back to our hotel and after a night cap, grabbed another breakfast before bed.  These outings were wearing me down.

The next day all of us lined up for another round of buffet – this time at a different hotel.  There was a big line to get in and we amused ourselves by wagering on how long our wait would entail…a bit sad really, when you consider that we were losing precious minutes of our lives, that we would never get back.  After lunch we split into different groups and 3 of us went over to ‘Caesar’s Palace’ hotel and found a cocktail lounge to spend the rest of our afternoon.  In all of my travels, I have never considered visiting different restaurants, hotels and bars as “sightseeing”, but I suppose Vegas is an exception.

The magnificent 'Cirque du Soleil' 

We came back to the hotel to get ready for our main attraction of the evening – a visit to see ‘Cirque du Soleil – Zarkana’.  If anyone knows how to put on a show, it is these guys and this was spectacular.  I have seen several of their shows and they continue to amaze.  After the show the boys wanted to go back to the buffet, but by now I had enough of it.  Plus I was running on fumes.  So after a relaxing dinner at a French restaurant named ‘Bardot Brasserie’, I called it a night and went straight back to the room for my first decent night’s sleep since arriving here.  The next day folks had their flights starting early in the morning and a couple of them had already left before breakfast.  The rest of us departed around lunch time and Som and I found ourselves back at the airport amongst slot machines.  He asked me what the best part of the trip had been and while I could have said being with my boys, there was something better than that.  Vegas is a unique place, unlike any other in the world.  It is an unwavering spotlight on decadence and even though I had not spent a single dollar on gambling, I felt that I had been complacent in contributing towards that.  Vegas is as artificial a life as can be imagined and nothing seems real, even a smile.  I was the only person of the 6 who did not have a family to go back to.  But without a doubt I knew what the best part of being in Vegas had been.  I looked at Som and replied, “Leaving for home”.  

12. Rhode Island

Month: September 2015

Location: Newport

The streets of Newport

I was going to Hopkinton, Massachusetts for my 2^nd year of the ‘Jimmy Fund Boston Marathon Walk’.  So I thought about coming a day earlier in Providence, Rhode Island and driving to Newport, a wonderful New England Oceanside town if there ever was one.  I rented a car at the airport and made the 30 minute drive to Newport, arriving over the famous bridge, which deposits the visitor into the city.  I found my destination, which was a hotel called ‘Jailhouse Inn’, a quaint building with an interesting history…but more on that later.  After I had checked in, the person at the reception told me that I should go to the breakfast room and get the freshly baked cookies, which are usually put out at this time in the afternoon.  And my word they were fresh and gooey and had everything that’s right with a chocolate chip cookie.  I dropped off my stuff in my room, which was across a door that reminded me of a ‘Detective Agency’ from a ‘noir’ movie, and then I was ready to hit the town.

Entry into the 'Tennis Hall of Fame'

Years ago I had come here with some of my buddies and we had tried to get into the ‘International Tennis Hall Of Fame Museum’, until we realized that it wasn’t quite free. Being in school, we had beaten a hasty retreat, but this time I would make sure that I paid it a visit.  Armed with a map, I walked through some of the more charming streets that I have encountered during my travels.  Narrow streets that are not arranged in a typical cities “grid pattern”, and some historic looking buildings, give Newport a very “European” feel.  I arrived at the museum, the entry to which is through a lush-green tennis court that would be right at home at ‘Wimbledon’.  This time I brought my admission and for the next hour, walked through what is really a good museum, paying tribute to the rich history of tennis and all of its champions.  It was a bit nostalgic for me since I grew up watching many of these stars.  Newport is a strange location for such a museum, but I doubt if anyone would have done a better job.  Later as I walked through the grounds I saw many folks clad in their whites playing, and I am sure they were paying a rich premium for this privilege.  Later, as we shall see, wealth and Newport are quite synonymous with each other.

Yep, its waffle on a stick!

I was trying to locate a famous lemonade place, but couldn’t succeed in doing so.  What I did find was an outrageously delightful place called ‘Waffle On A Stick’ which serves…well, a waffle on a stick.  The lady who owned the place was a friendly soul and after proclaiming my love for this concept, we discussed my order and settled on a freshly made waffle drizzled with ‘Nutella’, chocolate and caramel.  I mean, why not! As I savored this treat, she gave me some pointers and directions towards my next destination, the magnificent ‘Cliff Walk’.

The long and winding road

Back when my buddies and I had given up on the museum, we had ended up at the ‘Cliff Walk’, which is essentially a 3 mile hike along the cliffs, with the majestic ‘Atlantic’ on one side and the equally magnificent mansions on the other.  I joined the path at one end and started walking along the winding track which took me through gardens, narrow bridges and even places where waves were splashing everyone who passed.  Brilliant!  The late afternoon was now turning into twilight, giving this experience a very surreal feel.  At one point I approached Newport’s version of the “Parisian love-lock bridge”, where couples usually sign their name on a lock, put ii on a fence and then throw away the key.  I had seen a similar thing back in December at Napa, as one exited the “Wine Train”. One in particular grabbed my attention. It had 2 sets of initials, a date, a hand drawn heart and the words, "May we dance through life together". I have always loved this concept and seeing it under that backdrop was special.  It was getting dark as I made my way back to the main road and then walked back to my hotel; going through the bustling downtown area where evening revelers had already started assembling.  Newport was coming alive.

The enchanting 'Castle Inn'

After changing I got in the car and followed GPS directions towards my dinner destination, which was a restaurant called ‘Castle Inn’.  This place is Oceanside and a bit removed from downtown, meaning that my drive took me through some very dark roads and isolated areas.  When I arrived at the location, I saw some people assembled inside a building and so stopped and handed my car to the valet…only to realize that I was about to gatecrash a wedding.  After a quick course-correction I found the restaurant and for the next couple of hours enjoyed the ambiance that only places like these can provide.  I returned back just before midnight and commented to the girl at the reception that this was a very unique hotel.  This led to a fascinating conversation, where she told me about the history of the place and boy, now everything made sense.  Jailhouse Inn’ is named so because that’s what it was in the past…a jail.  She pointed out how there were cell bars between us and why there was that door outside my room.  It seems that there are actual cells in the basement, though thankfully none of them have been converted into rooms!  She was interested in my ‘51/51’ quest and gave me pointers on what I should do tomorrow.  One of perks of my travels is finding places like these and meeting local folks like her.  It had been a great day.

The opulent Mansions

I woke up early and went down to the most charming room in which one can have breakfast.  This morning I would be visiting the most iconic landmarks of Newport…the mansions.  I had bought a package that would grant me entry into 5 of the 10 mansions and I had narrowed down my selection to 3 that I definitely wanted to visit and then I would decide based on time that I had available to me.  My first stop was at a place called ‘The Breakers’, which is by far the most famous of the lot and as I walked through the estate and into the grand hall, it was easy to see why.  For the next hour I took a self-guided audio tour of the mansion that was bursting with opulence in every room…every tile.  As I learned about the lifestyles of the people who lived here during the late 19^th century and what’s known as the “gilded age”, I was taken aback by how much wealth these people had.  This one belonged to the ‘Vanderbilt’s’,who were railroad tycoons, and they used this as their summer residence for 8 weeks.  During that time the lady of the house threw grand parties which usually started with dinner and ended with revelry throughout the night, after which the guests had breakfast before departing.  In today’s dollars, the expense of running this place for those 8 weeks ran into millions.  Aah, the lifestyles of the rich and famous.

I wouldn't mind this view from my house!

Next, I drove to a nearby mansion called the ‘Rosecliff’, where a guide revealed that it has been home to several ‘Hollywood’ films, including ‘The Great Gatsby’, which was not a surprise, to ‘True Lies’, which was surprising.  It took some time to see these places and I did not want to rush just to get through the 5.  My last stop was at ‘The Elms’, where another self-guided tour took me through this place and which included visits to the “servant’s quarters”.  What was interesting was that all these places had a separate hidden staircases and corridors, through which the servants moved and unless you were the head of staff, you were not allowed to be seen by the masters.  Even the cleanup had to be done pre-dawn before anyone woke up…so much so that the legend grew that all of these places were “self-cleaning” or even better, “serviced by the elves”.

My last stop before departing Newport was for lunch at a place called ‘White Horse Tavern’.  This was like your typical pub, but with some elevated food, and I had reserved a table.  As the waiter took my order, a middle-aged couple with a British accent came in and without asking me, sat down at my table for a “pint”.  The waiter came back with my food and was clearly confused, not knowing if I had invited them to join me.  I did not say anything because I found it utterly amusing, and chalked it down to one of those unique things that only happens on visits like these.  I left Newport before completing even 24 hours stay, but it seemed like I had achieved everything that I could have hoped for.  I had met amazing people, seen incredible sights, eaten delicious food and more importantly, had found hidden treasures.  This trip marked the completion of 12 states in 12 months.  Bring on year 2.

11. Washington

Month: August 2015

Location: Seattle

One of the places that I have always wanted to visit, in fact for several years, has been Seattle.  Well, that was about to change because I was headed to the great ‘Pacific Northwest’.  The previous night had been a bit…interesting, and had ended with me stumbling home; literally.  So it wasn’t quite the ideal start when I woke up after noon, just a few hours before my flight and rushed to the airport.  I had recovered considerably by the time the plane circled around Seattle and was in good spirits when I reached the hotel…even securing complimentary internet during check-in.  I was ready for the weekend.

A beautiful evening

Right off the bat, Seattle impressed me immensely.  There was a slight mist in the early evening air as I left the hotel to get a bite to eat.  Well, when I say a bite, I really mean several of them.  I went to a sushi joint called ‘Blue C Sushi’, where sushi plates were literally passing by in front of me on a conveyor belt.  All my life I had waited for something like this!  The problem was that it was sushi, one of my favorite food groups, and each plate was color coded to reflect the price.  I had a multi-colored tower of plates in front of me before I called it quits.  It was a good start.

The disgusting 'Gum Wall'

I woke up early the next morning and was on my way for a “Walking Food Tour” of the famous ‘Pike Place Market’.  It was a lovely morning as I waked through the downtown and a couple of blocks from the market, went to one of Seattle’s innumerable coffee shops, ‘Seattle Coffee Works’.  It was a charming place and as I waited, I heard an order come through for a drink with 6 shots.  When I observed that it seemed a bit excessive, the barista said that it was for a girl who works at the market and as I would soon see, she would need them this Saturday morning when the rush starts!  Well, I had certainly picked the right day.  We had been asked to go down a narrow alley and meet outside a theater.  What I didn’t know was that this theatre was also the location of the infamous ‘Gum Wall’ of Seattle.  This is a truly disgusting wall, where visitors from all around the world have stuck gum as some sort of a tribute or just for the heck of it…and I am not talking about unopened gum here.

I saw some other people who had assembled outside the theater and learned that they were in the tour party as well.  We were discussing our location and this awful spot when mercifully our guide arrived and took us inside the theater.  In the lobby we got introduced to other members of our group and our guide, Nick, told us a bit more about the wall.  Apparently it had started as a joke and cascaded into what exists today.  The theater – which is still operational – has tried pressure cleaning the wall several times, but every time they get rid of the gum, someone starts anew and it grows again, so much so that this is now the 2^nd most “germiest” place on the planet after the ‘Blarney Stone’ of Ireland.  After that illuminating conversation, Nick asked if we were ready to eat and I for one just wanted to get away from there.

The famous 'Pike Place Market'

We started off by climbing down to the base level of the market, as Nick mentioned that this was a publicly owned building and the city’s pride and joy.  As we went down the stairs, the backdrop of the ‘Puget Sound’ – Seattle is not on the ‘Pacific’ as most think – and it was a beautiful sight.  We stopped outside a coffee shop for some gluten free ‘Madeline’s’ as Nick told us about the various bars around the market and the exciting stories surrounding them.  We took an elevator to the top and exited into the heart of the market which was now starting to buzz.  Our next stop was to try an outstanding ‘Greek Yogurt with fruit’ followed by ‘Maple Bacon Donuts’ because, well, who doesn’t want a piece of that?  As expected, there was a big line for that, though being on a tour, we didn’t have to wait that long.  Nick pointed out that the tiles in the market had names and that was one of ways through which the market raised money, by selling tiles to people to put names down.  He showed us a set of tiles that had numbers on them and asked what was unique about them.  I quickly realized that they were all “primes” and pointed it out.  He said that it was true and that years ago a man had purchased a set of tiles and asked them to be labeled accordingly.  When asked why, he had said that many years prior to that, he had met his wife at this exact spot in the market and she was a 'Mathematician'.  When people ask me what I enjoy most about my travels, it is stories like this.

Looking back at the market

We stopped at a tea shop for some herbal tea and then it was off to the renowned fish stall to witness the famous “Fish toss”, perhaps the most familiar thing associated with this market.  While munching on some delicious salmon, we saw a few rounds of that and I enjoyed the enthusiasm with which they did this activity.  We then visited another popular place which makes cheese in front of everyone, followed by an artisan preserves shop, a coffee shop specializing in “croquettes” and finally a luxurious chocolate place in which I had some of the most decadent pieces of chocolate.  Our tour was at an end and Nick had been an outstanding guide who had kept us laughing, and fed us well.  He encouraged us to explore more of the market place and before departing, I asked him for some recommendations on Seattle eateries and he gave me a few pointers.  I walked past the very first ‘Starbucks’, or not, depending on who you ask.  There was a huge line waiting to get in and considering that the ‘Starbucks’ coffee is same everywhere, I thought it was bit of a stretch. But hey, whom am I to belittle tourism. By this time the market was absolutely crawling with visitors and I saw what the 'Barista' had meant earlier. Having just been a part of a food tour, you would have thought that I was all set as far as lunch was concerned, but no sir.  Nick had recommended a place nearby called ‘Seatown Seabar & Rotisserie’ and I just had to stop by for a bite.

At the 'Pacific Science Center'

I had no specific plans for the afternoon, so I started walking towards the premier landmark in Seattle, ‘The Space Needle’.  I decided to visit the science museum nearby, known as the ‘Pacific Science Center’.  As I was purchasing the ticket, the agent asked if I wanted to attend a ‘Laser Show’ while I was there.  I asked what the music was and there were different options depending on the time. Once she said that the immediate one coming up was ‘Beatles’, I was sold.  I went straight to the dome where the show was being conducted and there were several families in the line.  As soon as the doors opened, all the kids went and lay on their backs staring at the ceiling, where the laser show would be projected; while I took one of the seats as did the parents.  The show started and very soon I saw why the best place to be was as the kids were doing, on your back.  So I left my seat and did just that, staring at the ceiling as for the next 20-30 minutes my favorite songs in the world were set to a dazzling display of laser lights.  And I did not care if the adults felt that I should have been on a chair because this is the ‘Beatles’ and I was going to get maximum out of this experience.

The brilliant 'EMP Museum'

After the show I walked about the museum, including an exhibit called ‘Grossology’ which shows kids through cartoon models what happens to food once you consume it...yeah. Finally, before leaving I went for a show inside the ‘Planetarium’, which unlike the one in ‘Adler’, is a much smaller and intimate room, where everyone sits around the periphery while the show is conducted from the center and is very interactive.  After that, I came out and walked through campus that also includes another museum called ‘EMP Museum’, or ‘Experience Music Project Museum’.  Now, while the name of the museum says “music”, the place is dedicated to all things “pop culture”.  I started with an exhibit devoted to ‘Horror Movies’ and it was quite comprehensive in terms of some of the props that they had as well as various viewing stations with excerpts from some of the classic films of the genre.  After this I walked through an exhibit on ‘Star Wars’ and ‘Star Trek’ movies and another one on ‘Fantasy’ movies.  Then I visited a section on the birth of ‘Grunge’, especially the story of ‘Nirvana’.  There was even an exhibit dedicated to Chuck Jones and ‘Looney Tunes’.  But the centerpiece of the museum is a full sized stage which would be perfect for any rock concert, and it seems that they do host shows in here.

Seattle from the top of the "needle"

I left the museum and while the logical thing would have been to go on top of the ‘Space Needle’, I was going to be back later on in the evening for dinner at the revolving restaurant at the top, ‘Sky City’.  Living in Chicago I take the ‘EL’ to work every day, but for many visitors, the elevated monorail that runs from this park to the heart of downtown is an attraction.  Since it would deposit me very close to my hotel, I took the train back and went to my room to relax before the evening’s activities.  Those did not have to wait for long and I grabbed a drink at the hotel lobby bar overlooking the street and it was turning out to be a beautiful evening.  Since the train had been a good transportation from the ‘Needle’, I took it back there and having a reservation at the restaurant allowed me to skip the line for the observation deck and go straight up.  As I walked around the perimeter, the views were spectacular, and besides the downtown, included the magnificent ‘Mt. Hood’.  While I did not get the window seat at dinner, I was able to track the changing view by looking over some people. Over the course of one revolution, I concluded my meal and headed back for some well-earned shut-eye.

On the way to the island

If there is one thing Seattle is known for, its coffee, and I had signed up for a “Coffee Crawl”.  Yesterday after the food tour, Nick had given us a coupon for discounts at places around the market and I used it for breakfast at a biscuit place.  Since I had some time to spare, I walked through some of the lower levels of the market and came across some truly interesting stores, including a magic shop, which wasn’t open on Sundays.  At 10 am I arrived at our meeting spot and with a very enthusiastic group, for the next few hours went around the area near the market sampling coffee.  And this wasn’t your ‘Mocha’s’ or ‘Latte’s’, but pure coffee with no other additives – and it was great.  It was also interesting to hear about the history of each shop, including one called ‘Café Ladro’ or “The Coffee Thief”, whose background story involved a once fruitful partnership gone sour.  I also learned about how there is a competition for ‘Barista’s’ to create those foam decorations that one sees in specialty drinks, and apparently that is quite a competitive field.

The charming streets of 'Bainbridge Island'

After I had my fill of coffee, I rushed to the waterfront to catch a ferry to ‘Bainbridge Island’, a short hop away from the mainland.  The ferry itself was huge and the deck felt longer than a football field.  While initially I stayed on top to enjoy the views of the city, as we got deeper into the waters, the wind picked up and I took refuge in the lounge downstairs, studying the map and making plans for the afternoon – starting with lunch.  Some 30 odd minutes later we were at the island and I headed towards the center of the town.  There is one main street on which lie most of the businesses and I found a “hole-in-the-wall” restaurant for lunch.  One of my favorite things to do is explore small towns with charming shops and soon enough I had located an antique shop, a toy store, a memorabilia store and my absolute favorite, a book store.  After walking about each of these, I located a fudge store and bought some of the local fudge for a friend.  I chatted with the girls in the store and asked them for a place on the island that I absolutely had to visit.  They directed me towards a local ice cream shop which claims to be a famous one in the state.  I made a quick stop there before boarding a ferry back for the mainland.  ‘Bainbridge Island’ had been everything that I had anticipated, and a worthwhile expedition.  It had been a long day and rather than go to one of Nick’s recommended restaurants, I went back to ‘Blue C Sushi’ near the hotel because, well it has food on a conveyor and all that. 

Beneath the city

My last morning in Seattle was another beautiful day and I was on my way to something called an “Underground Tour”. Seattle has a vast network of underground tunnels that connect basements of many businesses.  While we roamed through the dungeons, our very enthusiastic guide told us the history of the city, when during the late 19^th century and how they had raised the downtown area after a fire and a flood.  It was a hilarious way to learn about the city and something that I would recommend to everyone.  I still had a few hours left before I had to leave for the airport and so stopped at the magnificent city library, which is an architectural marvel.  Then there was just one thing left to do – have lunch at the famous ‘Biscuit Bitch’; an artisan restaurant specializing is biscuits.  With extremely limited seating and volume of orders, I had to wait over 30 minutes and share a table, but it was well worth it.  After one last look at the market place and ‘Puget Sound’, I went to the hotel, picked up my luggage and left for the airport.  I had wanted to visit Seattle for over 10 years and had finally made it here.  As I left I knew that I had found a city I could see myself living in.  I cannot describe to anyone why I fell in love with the place, I just did.  I guess it’s true for love isn’t it?