24. Massachusetts

Month: September 2016

Location: Boston & Salem

Aah Boston!

Growing up, the one name that everyone knew as regards the educational institutions in the US was ‘Massachusetts Institute of Technology’ or ‘MIT’.  Through that grew my interest in the city of Boston and the region of New England.  Thus, I was delighted to be able to come to Connecticut for my studies and the very first weekend that I was here, we took a trip to Boston.  Over the next several years, I had been to Boston dozens of times, either for a conference, work, visiting friends, sporting events, concerts or for food.  But never had I gone to Boston as a tourist, well at least not like I am doing during this quest.  Of all the places that I should have known intimately, it was Boston.  But I didn’t; and so was excited to visit for a new adventure.

'Boston Common' at night

I arrived early in the evening and took the free bus service to downtown, which many other passengers besides me were availing of.  I was dropped off at ‘South Station’ and then I had to rely on my phone maps to navigate the narrow streets.  After a few wrong turns I found my hotel and went to my room to plan my evening.  There really wasn’t much to do and so I started towards the ‘Boston Common’ park and discovered that the path towards that was through some of the more charming streets that I have seen.  As I have said in the past, I am extremely fond of cobblestone or brick streets and hidden within this part of town was an entire such block that was full of people enjoying the pleasant evening.  I walked through the park which is to Boston what ‘Central Park’ is to New York City.  Passing by a fountain, a carousel and a baseball field, it felt like a perfect introduction to the vibe of the city, something to draw you in before throwing you into the hustle and bustle.  I had dinner reservations in a place called ‘O Ya’ and after that I returned back to my room for an early night.

Outside 'Fenway park'

I woke up early next morning since I had scheduled a guided tour of ‘Fenway Park’, home of the “Boston Red Sox". This is a team that I root for, along with the other sporting teams of this region.  I had given myself enough time to take a train there, but when I entered the station, I saw that all of the vending machines said “cash only” and since I did not have smaller change, I had no choice but to take an ‘Uber’ there.  I was dropped off at the stadium and it took me some time to locate the right window to claim my ticket.  I was told to wait across the street, outside the official “gifts store” and very soon a sizable crowd assembled.  A couple who was standing in front of me started a conversation and I learned that they were from Kentucky.  The guy mentioned that his dad had brought him here as a kid and he had decided to come back years later with his wife.  “Red Sox” have a certain mysticism to them which extends beyond this region and has fans all over the world. 

...and inside

A lady with a microphone and a speaker – she carried it like a pouch – took us inside the stadium and in to the stands.  There was some sort of high school practice/tryouts going on and with that as the background, she told us about the history of the park as well as the team.  We were then taken on top of the famous “Green Monster”, which in my opinion has the best view, and told about some other memorable moments from the rich history of the club.  The tour continued through the press boxes and all around the stadium, concluding in the museum behind the club house.  It had been an educational look at one of baseball's premier clubs and after saying bye to my new friends; I left for my next stop.

Invitation to 'The Fairy Shop'

I decided to walk back towards downtown and on the way came across a nice coffee shop called ‘Pavement Café’, stopping for a quick breakfast.  I walked passed the ‘Hynes Convention Center’ – site of the numerous conferences that I had attended over the years – and on to “Newbury Street”, which is Boston’s version of the “5^th Avenue”, with boutique stores.  This is where I came across one of the most unique stores that I have seen.  As I went past the stores a sign caught my eye, so much so that I had to retrace my steps.  It said simply ‘The Fairy Shop’ and fascinated by it, I peeked inside.  What I saw was nothing short of, well…magical.  There were objects and things that are every little boy and girl's delight; as well as something for the inner nerd in you.  There were “Unicorns” and other magical creatures, along with paraphernalia from numerous fantasy movies.  But what made this store great was its owner.  He was a friendly man who I had a wonderful time chatting with, for he was the sort that truly believes in magic.  Before I left the store he sprinkled some “fairy dust” on my gift bag…just for good measure.

Sights on the tour

As great as this stop had been, I was now running late and so hastened my step towards ‘Boston Common’, where I was scheduled to go on “Freedom Trail Walking Tour”.  One of the signature landmarks in Boston is the “Red Line” that runs through the streets; a 2.5 mile path that takes visitors through some of the iconic locations from Boston’s history.  While this tour would not be that long, it was still going to cover many landmarks.  I was frantically searching for the meeting point, when I noticed people wearing some 18^th century attire and realized that those were our guides.  There were different tours departing at the same time and I was with a gentleman who told us at the beginning that he would be in character throughout our time together.  For the next 90 minutes he took us around the area, through the historic sites and regaled us with tales from the “Revolutionary War”.  We even saw a “changing of the guard” ceremony before dispersing.

At the 'Mary Baker Eddy Library'

Being a long weekend, everywhere in Boston there was a huge crowd, not least at the harbor where there was hardly enough room to walk.  I was trying to locate a place called ‘Barking Crab’ for lunch and while it was on the waterfront, it was also deceptively far.  I arrived to see that it was full and had an hour long wait.  Fortunately, I was able to grab a table by the bar and after a quick lunch, called an ‘Uber’ for my next destination, ‘Mary Baker Eddy Library’.  While library is dedicated to Mary Baker Eddy, the founder of the famous “The Christian Science Monitor”, the main attraction of the library is a room known as “The Mapparium”, one of the more unique places that I have seen.  It is essentially a 3-story stained-glass globe, within which one can stand and view the world as an inside-out globe; with all the continents and oceans all around you.  There is a short show with lights and music which gives the audience a thrilling experience.  This was the main reason I had come to this place and well worth the visit.

Waiting for my dinner reservations

I got dropped off at the harbor and purchased a one-way ferry ticket to take me to Salem the next morning.  I returned back to the room and stayed there for a bit before going for my dinner at ‘The Tasting Counter’, which is in Somerville, a suburb of Boston.  I was dropped off on a street which was dark and deserted, with absolutely no signs indicating where the place was.  There was a brewery next door and upon asking they said that the doors would open soon.  Having been to restaurants like these I should have known that it wouldn’t be that evident and when I did go inside, it looked like a commercial building.  The dining room was still being used by the earlier round of guests and so I walked around looking at some artwork and even some really expensive chocolate.  Once inside, I was extremely impressed by the place, the setting, the service and the food.  I was back at my room at a reasonable hour, which was great since I had a day trip planned for the next day.

On my way to Salem

Next morning, I walked over to the harbor and there was already a line to get on the ferry.  It was a clear and pleasant day and I was looking forward to the hour long ride to Salem.  I got a seat on the top deck and as we pulled away from the harbor, even though the wind had picked up, it still made for a good start.  Then we hit the open water and everything went sideways.  The wind was now brutal and the boat was rocking up and down making it extremely uncomfortable for everyone.  It wasn’t as if the storm clouds were gathering or rain was in the air.  It was still a beautiful day.  Around me, I could see people were struggling to walk and many were now just counting the minutes till we arrived.  The captain had been on the microphone giving us information on the sights and after a point no one really cared, preferring to hang on to dear life instead.  Plus we couldn’t hear him over the wind.  As we got closer to Salem, it got better and pulling into the harbor wasn’t as bad.  I was glad that I had purchased a one-way ticket and was going back to the city on a train.

The beautiful streets of Salem

I had wanted to visit Salem for several years, but never made it out there.  Salem is knows for the infamous “Witch Trials” from the late 17^th century; and reading about the town beforehand, it seemed like it was the most prevalent tourist attraction.  As I walked down the streets, I was struck by how pretty small New England towns are and this one was no exception, reminding me of Newport in Rhode Island.  I had reserved a spot on a walking tour, and not just an ordinary historical walk of the town.  This one was called “Salem Witch Walk” and it would be led by a real “witch”.  I arrived at the starting location which was a house with a store not unlike the “Voodoo" shop that I had encountered in New Orleans.  Plus, they had a “Fortune Teller”, meaning that  I just had to sign up for a session!

A few people started assembling and soon we were joined by our “witch”, who turned out to be a male.  Now, having read the “Harry Potter” series, I believed that the term “witch” was for females, though that is a misconception.  According to our guide, it is a generic terminology for those practicing “witchcraft”, which does not deal with nefarious things as is believed, but rather a channeling of positive energies.  We started by doing a ritual in the backyard, with included idols, incense sticks, stones and even a sword. We concentrated our thoughts on good things and imbibed with that energy, set off on the tour.

The ingredients for our "ritual"

We walked through the town, stopping at various places where our guide told us the historical significance of that place, not least the graveyard where he recounted the horrific tales of what happened during the trials and the places where those accused are buried.  It was truly a gruesome story of people being persecuted on hearsay and being condemned to death via some cruel methods, including being crushed to death.  But it wasn’t just about the bad. He took us through the main street – lined with bricks – and into some of the shops where one could make write down someone’s name as an offering and which would be burnt and sent as “positive energy” to that person on “All Saints Day”.  He showed us pictures on how the town is transformed during the month of October, leading up to the huge parade on “Halloween”.  It seems like that is the time to come here and I certainly hope that someday I am able to.

The props at 'Witch History Museum'

The tour had been good and I walked back with the guide to the store for my appointment with the “Fortune Teller”, who turned out to be a lady sitting in the back of the room.  She started by setting a 15 minute timer on her phone and then after a bit of shuffling and cutting of the “Tarot Cards”, proceeded to tell me about all the good things that are coming up in my life including abundance of happiness, job satisfaction and travel.  Then seeing that there was still some time left on the clock, she added a few other tidbits and picked 5 stones for me, which signify certain things that I have already forgotten.  To her relief, by then the time was up and I was able to move on.  There are several museums in Salem with the word “witch” in them and I stopped at one such museum called ‘Witch History Museum’.  They had a 30 minute tour which started in a room with a stage and a set.  After a brief performance, we were escorted to the basement, which had a walking path through different props and life-size puppets and scenes which told the story of the trials.  It was actually quite well done in terms of the setting and the story, and well worth the visit.

Outside the 'Salem Witch Museum'

One of the best periods of my life was my time in Pittsburgh and the friendships that I developed over there, especially with my ex-colleagues.  One of them, Shawn, lives in Northern Massachusetts and in fact used to live in Salem.  So I texted to tell him that I was visiting and to my surprise, he said that he would be there in 45 minutes.  We decided to meet in a place called ‘Life Alive’, which is an “Organic Vegetarian” café.  I ordered my food just as he got there and we caught up over the next 30 minutes or so.  He then took me for a walk through the town, telling me stories about the time that he lived there, before dropping me off at the ‘Salem Witch Museum’.  It had been wonderful meeting him after all these years and I truly appreciated him coming out to see me.

In a town full of museums, the ‘Salem Witch Museum’ prides itself on being the premier attraction.  There is a huge statue of a “witch” outside the museum and a line to get in.  After a brief wait I was able to get inside a hall with chairs lined up against the walls and also in the center of the room.  I picked the center, which turned out to be the right choice since all around the room, towards the ceilings, was where the story was being staged via mannequins and other scene settings.  All I had to was turn around as the story was told and by the time it had covered the "360 degrees", so had I.  The poor souls who were sitting against the walls missed anything that happened above them.  There was another exhibit through which we were taken and then it was over.

Late afternoon at the town square

I had just enough time to visit the ‘Salem Wax Museum’ – where for the umpteenth time today I heard the story of the town. After that, there was nothing much to do but walk through the town prior to my train.  It was a pleasant time and people were out on the main street.  There was a big crowd at the train station and I learnt that the only way to get a ticket was on the train and with cash.  I literally had $2 remaining after purchasing my ticket and was thankful that I had not spent cash on some of the souvenirs prior to leaving Salem.  The train dropped me off in downtown and using my trusted map on the phone, I walked back to the hotel. 

"Copley Plaza" , where I would be back in 3 weeks

I was going for dinner to a place called ‘L ’Espalier’ and decided to walk the mile or so distance.  It was a nice walk and as I passed the “Copley Plaza”, it was quiet and abandoned - a stark contrast to how it would be when I return back in 3 weeks for the “Jimmy Fund Walk”.  As I settled for dinner, I took a peek at the weather for the next day and noticed that a storm was headed to Boston. It was supposed to hit the city late afternoon, right around the time that I was scheduled to depart.  I wanted to visit a couple of museums in the morning, but getting back home was a bigger priority than that.  So I checked with “Southwest” and was able to change my ticket to a flight in the morning.  This also meant that I had to hurry through dinner and get back to my hotel sooner than I had planned.  I took a cab to the airport early next morning and returned back to Chicago in the afternoon, well before the storm…which never happened.  Not one drop of rain.  Well, I may have missed half a day in Boston, but it had been a good trip.  I felt like I had truly “visited” Boston for the first time.  Plus Salem had been fantastic, charming New England town.  This was "State Number 24" and would conclude 2 years of travel since I started.

23. Illinois

Month: August 2016

Location: Springfield

All aboard!

When I started 22 months ago, I had decided that even though Chicago was the point of origin for all my travels, I would not check off a box for Illinois.  So a trip somewhere within the state was always on the cards and what better town to visit than the town that the great Abraham Lincoln called home, Springfield.  Lincoln is a name I had heard of while growing up and the more I learned about the man, my admiration grew.  Then I saw the fantastic Ken Burns documentary, “Civil War” and the legendary “Gettysburg Address”.  For a long time a framed copy of that hung on my wall as a reminder of how a leader conducts himself.  I have also stated my love for visiting the ‘Lincoln Memorial’, something that I always do whenever I am in DC.  So, I was really excited to be visiting Springfield and learning even more about him.  But there was another reason - I would be travelling by train.  Growing up I went on several family vacations and most of them involved a train ride.  Then airplanes came into our lives and a train journey to get to a destination was mostly reserved for commuter rail.  There is something nostalgic and charming about travelling by a train and while I could have easily rented a car, I really wanted to travel by a train.  As I went to ‘Amtrak’ website to buy my ticket, I saw that for a few extra dollars, I could “live it up” by upgrading to a “First Class” seat.  Besides more comfortable chairs, it came with a newspaper and one free non-alcoholic beverage.  Let the party begin!

Welcome to Springfield

I left my apartment quite early on Saturday morning and walked about a mile or so to the ‘Union Station’.  Despite the early hour, there was a long line waiting to board the train and on a whim I asked at the ticket window if I was entitled to skip the line owing to my ticket. Sure enough, I could do that and so under glares that could burn down a village, I moved past all the people in to a waiting area and was amongst the first to board the train.  The seats in “First Class” were in fact comfortable and could also recline.  Plus I had a tray for my laptop, as well as plug points for my devices.  It wasn’t at all a bad way to travel and the journey was quite pleasant…though that I did not avail of the newspaper nor the free beverage.

The train dropped me off at a station, which looked like any other suburban station near Chicago.  I saw the “Capitol Dome” and started walking in that direction, before realizing that my hotel and downtown was on the other side of the tracks.  I love “brick” or” cobblestone” streets and as I walked over one such downtown street, I saw my first statue of Lincoln and it surely wouldn’t be the last.  I dropped off my stuff and upon asking for recommendations to eat, was directed to a place called ‘Moxo Café’.  On my way there, I came across 2 stores which usually have several things that people don’t need, but end up getting anyways.  One of them had a cute little dog that was curled up in a basket and the other was full of antique stuff, including ‘VHS’ tapes.  Talk about retro.

The friendly record store

As I looked for ‘Moxo Café’, I saw that there was a “Street Market” in progress, though it was smaller than some of the other ones that I have seen.  I went inside the café and ordered a sandwich though I noticed that everyone in the line in front of me was ordering “Pot Pie”.  I asked and learnt that it was the dish that they were known for.  So even if I wouldn’t be able to finish it, I just had to give it a try and so switched my order.  What’s the point of visiting a place if you are not going to sample their most famous creation?  I left the café and saw that right next door was a “Record’s Store” and whenever I see one of those, I have to stop.  The shopkeeper was quite friendly and after a quick walk-through, I moved on to my next destination ‘Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library & Museum’. 

The entire town is homage to Lincoln and the Museum is the perfect way to start.  As I went to get my ticket, the lady explained how I should go about my time here and was very welcoming and friendly.  I was beginning to sense a pattern to this city.  At the center of the museum are a rotunda and all exhibit halls are on the perimeter.  There are 2 shows and I started with one of them and what I saw was one of the most amazing displays of technology.  The show took place behind glass, like a zoo or an aquarium. What made this unique was that throughout the show there were characters and scenes and I have no idea if they were real or projections.  Forget state-of-the-art cinema that ‘Hollywood’ produces and all the technological leaps that “3-D” claims to have taken.  The most advanced visual spectacle that I have ever seen resides in a museum in Springfield Illinois.

Inside the museum

The next exhibit I visited traced Lincoln’s life through his humble beginnings – including a recreation of the tiny cottage in which he grew up.  The exhibit takes one through Lincoln’s arrival in Springfield, his ascension through the political ranks and ends with him being elected President.  The room next to it looks like the entrance to the ‘White House’ and it captured all of Lincoln’s tenure as the President, including his crusade to abolish slavery, the “Civil War” and personal tragedy of losing a son.  One of the more telling statistics was a timeline video of the war which showed casualties on both sides over the 4+ year duration of the war.  The exhibit concludes with his assassination and funeral and recreates the scenes and mood of the same.  There are other rooms in the museum with some memorabilia and another fantastic video show – with similar technology. One could really spend a long time in this place.

The magnificent portrait

I had also bought a ticket to another “Special Exhibit” which was being staged in a building across the museum and which looked like an old train station – which it indeed was.  The exhibit hosted props and costumes from the movie “Lincoln”, as well as other memorabilia from the film.  I walked around for a bit and then went to the library section which is housed in a different building.  While the main reading room was closed, there was an exhibit that one could see and it was a series of paintings and sketches by kids from 1^st grade to High School and it was their interpretation of Lincoln.  All of them, bar none, were excellent but one of them I found to be most fascinating.  It was a profile of Lincoln by a girl in 10^th grade, but upon closer inspection, I saw that the shape of Lincoln’s head was made of the entire “Gettysburg Address”.  The amount of skill and imagination that went into this was outstanding.

As I walked away from the Museum, I spotted more of the charming shops and so visited them, just to browse, rather than make a purchase.  Once again, they were extremely friendly and both even said, “Thank you for stopping by”.  What a town!  I was on my way to “Lincoln House’, a place where Lincoln was living before leaving for DC.  The house is set in a neighborhood which is a “National Historic Site” and a few blocks around his house are set in a “time capsule”, looking exactly as it did during the mid-19^th century.  At the “Visitor’ Center” I signed up for a guided tour of the house and then a “Park Ranger” led us through the house, telling us stories about Lincoln’s stay and even pointing out the exact location where Lincoln was standing when he decided to run for the Presidency.  After the tour I went to the ‘Old State Capitol’ and walked about for a bit before returning back to the hotel.

The view from the top of my hotel

My hotel is the tallest building in town and rooftop has a place called ‘Pinnacle Lounge’, with some awesome views of the city.  I went there quite early in the evening and grabbed myself a “Mocktail” and a comfortable couch by the windows.  The summer sun was still going down as I made my way to the meeting point for “Lincoln’s Ghost Walk”, which is a 90-minute walking tour.  I arrived early and since they do not have an office, I was just waiting outside the old law firm where Lincoln used to work, sharing the street with some homeless people who had already had a few drinks.  Eventually a gentleman showed up and said that he would be the tour guide, but we would be forced to cancel unless the minimum requirement of 8 attendees was met.  It was not looking good for a while, but soon a crowd assembled and the tour was on.

The "Old Town" from the past

As we stood around while our guide told us a bit about the history of the place, one of the drunk people got a bit animated and started cursing, at which our guide threatened to call the police and actually ended up doing so.  Yet another person was also trying to engage with the passerby’s and even trying to show them his feet.  But he was harmless according to our guide and wouldn’t cause too much trouble.  We proceeded down the street towards ‘Lincoln House’ and the majority of the tour would take place in the same vintage neighborhood that I had visited earlier in the day.  As we sat on the benches, dusk was beginning to turn into nightfall and listening to stories with crickets in the background was surreal.  We stopped outside the house as he told us a few ghost stories as well as stories of Lincoln’s corpse being stolen multiple times.  After the tour I called an ‘Uber’ and headed to my dinner destination.

The infamous "Horseshoe"

One of the perks of these travels is sampling the local cuisine and Springfield’s contribution to the culinary world is something called “Horseshoe”.  It is essentially an “open face sandwich” with meat of your choice and piled sky high with fries and topped off with a cheesy sauce.  While many claim to have invented it or as having the most “authentic one”, the general consensus was that the best one was at a place called ‘D’Arcy’s Pint’.  On the way there my driver gushed about it so much that for a minute I thought that he was going to join me.  Inside the restaurant I was pleased to see that they offered a half-sized version called “Ponyshoe” and even that would be difficult to handle.  There were several types to choose from, but with some guidance I ordered one and it was delicious and a worthy addition to a local specialty that I have had the good fortune to sample.  I took an ‘Uber’ back to my hotel and once again, had a friendly driver.  By now I was convinced that Springfield was turning out to be the “friendliest place” that I have visited.

The "Illinois State Fair"

One of things that I had always wanted to do was visit a “State Fair” and as luck would have it, I was in Springfield in time for the “Illinois State Fair”.  As I took the ‘Uber’ to the “State Fair Grounds” – which is a permanent site covering lots of acres – my driver told me about the thunderstorm from Friday night which flooded the fair and caused massive chaos.  It seems that people worked all through the night to get everything in order so that the grounds could open and my driver – who had a truck – was one of the good Samaritans helping out.  He dropped me off and I purchased a ticket and entered what seemed like one giant carnival ground. 

Yes, everything is fried!

There was an inclined slide – similar to what one finds in “Waterparks”.  However, instead of water, people were using sacks to slide down and from the line, it looked quite popular.  There was a “petting zoo” with some of the cutest animals and as expected, that area was full of kids trying to feed an assortment of lambs, sheep, ponies and other fluffy things.  As I bent down to take pictures, all of them thought that my phone was a feed and came over, immediately getting disappointed that I wouldn’t let them take a bite!  As cute as this was, I moved deeper into the fair and into an avalanche of food stalls, all of which had one thing in common – they deep friend everything…everything.  I had heard about this but seeing is believing and just looking at the menu was making me nauseous.  There was “Deep Fried Ice Cream”, “Deep Fried Oreos”, “Deep Fried Twinkies”, “Deep Fried Peanut Butter Cups” and plenty of other things that nature never intended to come in contact with oil.

The indoors marketplace

I kept moving and came to an indoor hall which was like a market for all sorts of things, ranging from jewelry to home remodeling products.  As I proceeded down the fairgrounds I came across something titled “Dairy Building” and as can be imagined, inside was all sorts of milk-based products, including one of the best milkshakes that I have had.  I came out on the backside where more activities were underway and the scope of this entire fair was just enormous.  There were stations with Farming equipment, a huge racetrack – though I do not know for what – and an indoor dirt arena where some sort of horse show was in progress.  One of more noticeable things at the fair was the lack of diversity in the people who were both, attending and running the show; including at the “Ethnic Village”, which I found amusing.  It had been a cool visit and I was glad that I had chance to experience it, though nothing could have compelled me to try any of the fried “desserts”.

One of the exhibits in the 'State Museum'

I called an ‘Uber’ for my next destination, which was ‘Illinois State Museum’.  There was some confusion whether the place was even open and arriving there and seeing that everything dark and quiet did not fill me with confidence.  Once again, my driver was friendly and offered to wait while I checked if the museum was indeed open; which it was.  A very kind lady gave me my tickets and pointers for how I should see the place and for the next hour or so; I walked about the different galleries. I came out and strolled through the new “State Capitol Grounds” before making my way back to the hotel to collect my bag.  There were still several hours before my train and so I called yet another ‘Uber’ – who should really be sponsoring my visits – and headed to ‘Washington Park and Botanical Gardens’.

The Carillon

Besides being a garden, the park hosted something called ‘Thomas Rees Memorial Carillon’.  Now, I had no idea what a Carillon was and further reading informed me that it was the 5^th largest “Bell Tower” in the world.  There was a tour of the tower and I went over there to find that the door was closed.  So I went over to the “Visitor’s Center” in the gardens and they told me that the while it was located in the park, the Carillon was an independent operation and so they did not know.  So I went back and this time the door was open.  Great communication guys!  There were a few others and our guide crammed us all in a tiny elevator as we rode up to the room which has the actual playing instrument which looks like an “Organ”.  I was amazed to learn that one person can play the entire instrument because that would require a lot of skill.  Not only that, but earlier in the day they were playing the “Star Wars Tune”.  There was going to be another performance in an hour and many people come for this activity and sit on the lawn.  Also, there is an “International Carillon Festival”, right here in Springfield.  We went further up via spiral stairs for some amazing views of the garden and the city.  Then we went and saw some of the larger bells – there are 67 in total – and though there was an offer to stick my head inside one of them, I politely declined.

After the tour I walked about the gardens a bit and called for an ‘Uber’ back, and was picked up by the same driver as before.  I asked to be dropped off at “Obed and Isaac’s Microbrewery” and enjoyed some of their offerings at their “Biergarten” before heading back for my train.  It was a nice evening and had been an excellent visit.  I was glad that I had not picked Chicago as my Illinois representative.  Springfield is a nice town and though dominated by Lincoln, it has some other attractions as well – like the Carillon, the “State Fair” and even the “Horseshoe”.  But more than anything else, it had been the friendliest place that I have visited so far.  Plus I got to travel on a train!

22. Oregon

Month: July 2016

Location: Portland

It was the July 4^th weekend and for the 2^nd time in 11 months, I was headed to the Pacific Northwest.  I had loved my visit to Seattle and had heard similar good things about Portland.  I took an afternoon flight and one of the best views is as you approach the city, with the magnificent ‘Mount Hood’ outside the plane window.  The weather was pleasant as I came out of the airport terminal and I got a cab to my hotel, which I soon found out was in the heart of downtown.  Plus, it was an extremely cute “Boutique Hotel” and suited the spirit of this city, which looked as “laid back” as any that I have seen.  As I checked in, I asked the lady for some recommendations and she pointed out a few cocktail places, even saying that she prefers some as an after-shift stop.  Well then, it looked like I had my bearings for this evening.

All roads lead away from Portland?

After dropping off my stuff and with a map in hand, I set off.  Walking down the street, the first thing that one notices is how clean the city appears.  The sidewalks are impeccable and as I walked passed what passed off as the center of downtown – with its fountain, brick lined street etc. – I began to truly like this place.  I found my way to a bar called ‘Jackknife’ for an early evening cocktail.  It is a very comfortable looking place with a nice bar and lounge area – complete with a fireplace – but was also empty.  There were a couple of people there as I had a cocktail and moved to a next place called ‘Shift Drinks’.  While ‘Jackknife’ had a cozy ambiance, this place has a lot of light and feels like a café.  But they do make good drinks and potent ones at that!  After having a cocktail called “Emoji Swagger”, I called an ‘Uber’ for my dinner destination.  Portland is a very “relaxed city” with cool people and nowhere was that more evident than my driver, who was using a navigation system that literally “sang” our directions, even cheering when we arrived.  After a nice dinner at a place called ‘Castagna’, I headed back to hotel.  Before going upstairs I saw that the outdoor bar was in full swing, complete with a fire pit.  I was too tired to visit tonight, but looked like a fun stop.

The long line at the market

The hotel was quite full for the long weekend and to my chagrin one of their 2 elevators wasn’t working, meaning there were long delays.  When I inquired at the front desk, they mentioned that owing to the long weekend the maintenance crew would not be able to fix it anytime soon.  Ooh joy and hello stairwell!  There are few better things to do on a Saturday morning than going to a “farmer’s market”.  There was one happening a few blocks away from my hotel and I walked the clean streets to the small park where a lot of people had gathered.  The shops were indicative of the spirit of this city, with a lot of organic and healthy options.  I walked through the various shops, stopping to sample some amazing products from some friendly people.  I was headed to “Pine Street Biscuits” to get a breakfast sandwich.  Well, several others had a similar idea and it took me a good 30+ minutes before I was able to order and devour an incredible sandwich which seemed to have everything but the kitchen sink!  It was a fun wait though and nice to hear all of the chatter.  Plus, I found a stone bench outside a building which would have been at home in any British University.

On the waterfront

I had scheduled an “Underground Walking Tour” and that was way across town.  However, I had enough time to get there and being a great “walking city”, I did not mind at all.  The meeting location was a bit outside of downtown and the neighborhood was definitely looking older.  I passed by the famous “Voodoo Donuts” place and there was a long line of people waiting for what is reputed to be the best donuts in Portland.  I arrived at the tour place with some time to spare and there were a few other people waiting.  Our tour guide arrived and he was a funny guy who would probably keep us entertained.  Now, I had done an “Underground Tour” in Seattle last year and that took us underneath the city and through tunnels and basements.  I had thought that this would be similar, but the “underground” over here referred to the less than reputable history of the city.  Our tour guide took us through the neighborhood and via the use of anecdotes and photographs, told us stories which were equal parts disturbing and entertaining.  The most poignant story was that of the “Little Japan” which disappeared overnight after “Pearl Harbor” and how all of those unfortunate people were moved to “camps”.  It is one of the most horrific tale of atrocity committed in the US and as a small matter of repentance, there is a park which honors the community that had been displaced from their homes.

People were out enjoying the weather

The park is right next to the waterfront and our guide told us a hilarious tale about smuggling across these waters during the prohibition era.  Apparently, the smugglers took advantage of the jurisdiction issues on either side of the river to avoid cops and some even ran “riverboats” in between, complete with gambling and drinks as the police tried to figure out how to deal with them.  One day they set a trap with cops on either side closing in and trapped the smugglers.  It was a hot day and the crooks claimed that they were on a cruise and had grape juice on board for their customers, which had been fermented due to the heat!  What a great way to talk your way out of a sticky situation.  Right next to the park was some sort of “Street Market” in progress and it was full.  People were enjoying the sun and consistent with the mood of the city, were just “chilling”.  We walked through the market that also had a fountain, which was rumored to have been flowing with beer at some point, and back through the streets.  Our guide continued the stories, even stopping at a nautical themed restaurant, and eventually we ended back in the same office where we had started.  This is when we were handed flashlights and taken down to the basement for some “underground time”, once again with stories of nefarious activities from a century ago.  The tour ended soon thereafter and I was on my way to the next destination.

A stop at 'Cacao'

Nearby was a place that I had heard about, a Chocolate store named ‘Cacao’.  Now, any chocolate store is great, but these guys were especially famed for their “Hot Chocolate” drink.  When I reached the counter, I learnt that there were 3 options to choose from, but fortunately for me, they were offering a sampler of all 3.  I was glad of that because all of them were outstanding and I would have hated to miss out on any one.  Plus it was a charming store to spend time in.  Also nearby was what’s reputed as “The World’s Largest Independent Bookstore” – ‘Powell’s City of Books’.  Now, when they say city, they mean it.  I have been to ‘Strand’ in NYC and an extraordinarily charming store called ‘The Book Loft’ in Columbus.  But this one was the biggest one I have seen and by a country mile.  I couldn’t even see half of it in the time I spent there. 

I wasn't too interested in the tour

I was headed to the ‘Portland Art Museum’, but my phone battery was dying – surprise – and so I stopped at a coffee shop called ‘Case Study Coffee’ for charging.  It turned out to be an excellent decision since not only did they have a “bar style” seating, but also a more interesting sounding drink that I ordered – “Fleur de Carmel Latte”.  I was headed to a guided tour, so couldn’t wait for too long, meaning that my phone was still at risk of running out of power.  I arrived in time for the tour, but for that hour it was of a special exhibit on fashion, something that I wasn’t particularly interested in.  So I explored on my own and it was a decent place to visit.  Eventually my phone did give up on me and I returned back to my room for recharging both, the phone and myself.

A city of books indeed!

In the evening I was headed to the same part of town as the morning for my dinner and walked through the downtown as the previous evening.  I had some time to kill and went to ‘Deschutes Brewery’ for a beer.  They are one of the more well know beer brands and the place was overflowing, with as many people waiting for tables as were inside.  I was fortunate to grab a place at the bar and left after a drink.  I still as early, so went back to the bookstore and tried to cover the sections that I had missed earlier.  Whenever I am at a bookstore, one of my favorite places to visit is the “Children’s” or the “Young Reader’s” section.  I was a voracious reader back in school and I love the nostalgia of seeing some of the books of my own childhood, recollecting some long forgotten memory.  As I perused through a used book that I hadn’t seen in years, I found a “Disney Magic Kingdom Driver’s License” for a little girl.  She was obviously using it as a bookmark and must have left it here.  I wondered how old she was now.  Was this a recent occurrence or from years ago?  To this day I still regret the fact that my parents got rid of my old comic books, for I would have treasured them for eternity.

Donuts at midnight

I finally set off for my dinner destination, which was a place called ‘Nomad’.  Now, one of the more challenging things was actually locating where it was since there were no signs, and neither was there an actual restaurant.  Instead, it is an unfinished storage facility – not unlike ones you find in a strip mall – which has been converted into a “pop-up restaurant” by placing a few dining tables and a kitchen in the corner.  In fact, I learnt that this was a shared space with some other business using it during the day time.  However, I couldn’t complain about the food, though the overall experience was a bit amateurish.  I did have good dining companions though, a couple visiting from Florida, and we had great conversations and even exchanged numbers.  I had a few glasses of wine and was feeling particularly happy as I passed by ‘Voodoo Donuts’ on my way back to the hotel.  The line was even longer than this morning and I thought that it would be a good idea to wait and get a donut for the morning.  After almost 45 minutes of standing amongst people who were clearly smoking the “good stuff”, it was well past midnight when I picked up my donuts and headed back to the hotel, thoroughly exhausted.

I had my donut for breakfast – though didn’t finish it since I had brunch reservations at a quaintly named place called ‘The Veritable Quandary’, which sounds like something you go see at neighborhood theater.  I arrived way ahead of my reservation and they asked me to wait till being called.  After 30 or so minutes later, I went back and asked and was seated in a room which looked like a beautiful setting.  However, my table was placed in an unfortunate location, where I waited for a long time till a server spotted me.  They claimed that they couldn’t see if anyone was at the table, which immediately begs the question as to why the table was there in the first place.  In any case, I ate quickly since I had a packed schedule.

'Pittock Mansion'

I was headed to ‘Pittock Mansion’, which is a 100+ year old estate that belonged to one of the more influential families of Portland.  I ordered an ‘Uber’ and a nice gentleman picked me up in an “Electric Car”.  We had a nice discussion on these vehicles as drove from downtown and up the hill where the mansion is located.  I bought a ticket for the tour and joined a group which was led by a nice gentleman.  While not as elaborate as the mansions of Newport, it was still a pretty distinguished house and with some outstanding views of ‘Mount Hood’ in the distance.  He told us about his climbing adventures on this and the 2 other mountains – ‘Mount St. Helens’ and ‘Mount Rainier’.  He also told us about the last major eruption of ‘Mount St. Helens’ back in the “80s” and the constant threat that looms from all of these volcanic mountains.  After the tour I walked about the splendid gardens and people had come out to take advantage of the weather and some were even painting the house.  But I was more interested in the view looking outward at the city below and the majestic mountain in the distance.

I wasn't getting into a coffin

The next place I was going to was called ‘Freakybuttrue Peculiarium’.  As the name suggests, this is a weird store that describes itself as “An Oddities museum, art gallery, ice cream parlor and a gift shop”.  I was greeted by a creepy wax statue outside the shop and a huge dog – a real one – inside it.  I walked around the museum, which is quite small, but full of the weirdest things one can find and is homage to the horror films of the past.  There were enough things in there to creep out people, including a coffin, where people are invited to climb in and close the lid, while speakers inside give you the impression of dirt being poured on you.  Another was a “dollhouse of horrors” with plenty of gory things inside to give anyone nightmares.  It wasn’t a big place to explore, but I surely had fun and left after petting the dog.

Line again

One of the bigger attractions in Portland is an ice cream shop and fortunately it was a short walk away – wow what a coincidence or did I just plan accordingly?  As I walked over, it was apparent that this was the more “artistic” part of town, with restaurants, art galleries, boutique shops and of course, coffee shops not named ‘Starbucks’.  I had been warned that there would be a wait and sure enough, the line extended all the way around the corner and people were actually sitting down on the sidewalk.  What’s it with this city and lines?  After an hour, I reached the interior of the shop and the menu was a sight to behold, with all sorts of flavors that shouldn’t go together.  One of the ways this place rewards its customers for their patience is by offering unlimited samples as you wait in the line.  I tried about 6 and then picked one called “Portland Creamery Goat Cheese with Marion Berry Habanero Jam”.  Yes, it should be disgusting, but was instead spectacular and definitely worth the wait.

Afternoon at the garden

My plan was to go to the ‘International Rose Garden’ and checking my map, it looked like I could cover the mile or so distance on foot.  Very soon it was apparent that I had been thinking in 2-dimensions when I should been thinking in 3-dimensions instead.  Most of the walk was uphill and quite steep at that; not to mention the heat and the ice cream that I had just consumed.  I arrived at the gardens completely out of breath and first order of business was to find a place which sold water and gulp it down.  As tired as I was the garden was extremely pretty and would have been a very nice way to spend a day.  Lots of families had come out and kids were around, enjoying themselves.  Also nearby was something called ‘Portland Japanese Garden’ and I followed the signs, though I hesitated when one read “Uphill climb ahead”.  Sure enough, there it was and after laboring a bit I arrived over there. After paying a substantial entry fee, I entered the gardens and it was a very tranquil place.  There were well-manicured lawns, rocks which seemed to have been placed precisely and of course running water.  After walking about for a while, I decided to call it a day and came back down to the “Gift Shop” and ordered an ‘Uber’.  After some trouble in finding each other, I was picked up just as my phone was about to die and dropped off at the hotel for a well-earned rest.

The 'Game Room' at my hotel

I went to the hotel bar for a drink and while waiting for my ride, was surprised to discover a huge “Game room” near the lobby, complete with all popular games like “Pool”, “Darts” and “Shuffle Board”, as well as video gaming consoles.  I had dinner reservations, but was early and so stopped at a bar called ‘Sunshine Tavern’ for a drink named “The Bee and the Bonnet”.  That seemed appropriate and more so in this neighborhood, which was quite lively.  This was my 3^rd evening in the city and so far I had seen different neighborhoods, each with its own unique characteristic, but all consistent with the friendly nature of the city.  My dinner was in a restaurant called ‘Roe’, which was nestled at the back of the bar and I half expected to find a poker game in progress when the person opened two sliding doors to reveal the hidden room.  It was a nice way to end the evening and I called it a night, even though the bar in my hotel was looking livelier than before.

A final farewell to Portland

Morning of July 4^th I walked down to a Coffee Shop named ‘Stumptown Coffee Roasters’ who are a Portland institution  As I walked through the streets the city’s homeless population was scattered all over and for the first time, I noticed a slight crack in this model city.  My final stop before heading to the airport was similar to something I had done in several other cities; a visit to the ‘Oregon Museum of Science & Industry’.  It was a bit away from downtown and a bit early in the day.  Along with regular admission, I bought a ticket to see a real life submarine that was parked in the river behind the museum.  A lively tour guide led our group there and we had a family with kids with us.  The tour itself was quite good and the kids had several questions, as did I.  Afterwards I walked about the museum and thought that I was done, before discovering a whole new wing tucked away in the back.  I went back to my hotel to pick up my bag and then headed to the airport.  It had been a wonderful visit to an amazing city.  As I flew away, outside my window the 3 great mountains rose majestic over the clouds, looking serene, while concealing the rage underneath.

21. North Dakota

Month: June 2016

Location: Fargo

I first heard about Fargo, along with the rest of the world, through the fantastic movie from all those years ago.  Looking the desolation and all the snow, I had thought that it was unlikely that I would ever visit there.  But then started this quest and as I looked at North Dakota, there were just 2 choices – either go to Bismarck and visit a ‘National Park’ or else enjoy the city life in Fargo…well as much city life as Fargo could offer.  So I decided to go to Fargo and arrived on a bright summer afternoon.  I took a cab – the cab drivers stand with a sign in the terminal and you pick one - to my hotel and after checking-in, settled down to plan my evening.

The main street of Fargo

The first thing that I found was an online library of a self-guided walking tour of the downtown.  Fargo is, well, a “one street town”; so all the stops on the tour were on that main street, with a few detours on the side.  As is usually the case, my friend had prepared for me a list of attractions in Fargo, and almost all of them comprised of places to either eat or drink.  I entered all of them in ‘Google Maps’ and lo and behold, all of them lined up along the main street. So with my map and the audio tour files loaded on my phone, I set off to explore the town.

The shop inside an old train terminal

My first stop was a place called ‘Proof Artisan Distillery’ which looked like a good old fashioned salon with tiles on the floor and Gin bottles behind the bar.  After a drink there, I walked across the street to a place called ‘Great Northern Bicycle Company’, which as the name states, is a shop selling Bicycles and gear for riders.  This was the first stop on my audio tour and the reason why it is special is because the shop has been built inside an old train terminal and in fact, the train lines still run behind the place.  After that I went over to the main street and continued my tour which was had a great narrative, not only in terms of the architecture, but also the history behind the buildings.  I went inside a store called ‘Zandbroz Variety’, a store that can only be found in a small town.  When they say “Variety”, they mean it.  This store had everything, from Books, to Souvenirs to household objects and other random things that people buy.  Plus, at the back of the shop they had something that looked like a coffee shop, complete with a library type environment. 

Fargo Theatre

After walking about a bit I came out and saw the sign for ‘Fargo Theatre’.  There is something extremely charming about cinema halls that are not “Multiplex’s”.  Every one of them looks the same, with their vertical sign and titles that have been assembled by hand.  Plus, this was reputed to have an “organ”, which unfortunately was on the 2^nd floor and one needed a ticket to go and see.  I was listening to the audio tour as I went on and my next stop was in a place called ‘Mezzaluna’.  It was tucked away in back of a building, but based on the number of people inside; it seemed to be quite popular.  I got a seat at the bar and had a cocktail while chatting with the bartender, especially since this was the first time that I had seen Vodka on tap!  I continued my walk and stopped at a place called ‘The Boiler Room’, which was in a basement, but another popular establishment. After another cocktail, I was on my way…this evening taking a distinct theme.

The crowd outside my hotel

The streets were coming alive and now it was looking like a proper Friday evening.  I love myself some German Beer and there was a place called ‘Wurst Bier Hall’.  It was as lively as a bar like this should be, and after a beer and pretzel, I went to my final stop of the evening, a place called ‘Vinyl Taco’.  As soon as one enters this place, they are hit by 80s music and a décor which would not have been out of place during that decade.  Plus it’s a taco place…and a good one at that.  I enjoyed my stay there and then it was time to call it a day.  I walked back to my hotel, but as I approached the entrance, I noticed a big crowd of young ladies outside.  They seemed to be waiting for someone and it sure wasn’t me.  I didn’t give much thought to it and went upstairs to retire.

The back room at 'Zanbroz Variety'

Next day dawned with threatening skies which seemed to grow darker as I walked to get breakfast at a place called ‘Sandy’s Donuts’.  I saw a ‘Make-A-Wish’ sign in there and learned that earlier in the morning Justin Bieber had been there, granting a wish.  He was here for a concert this evening and furthermore he was staying in my hotel.  This explained everything.  The reason why there was this crowd outside the hotel last night.  I went back to 'Zandbroz' for a bit and then walked back to the hotel just as the skies opened up.  I called an ‘Uber’ to my destination for this morning – an “Escape Room” game.  On the way there I had a good conversation with my driver and he was telling me about living in Fargo, the economy and how his teenage daughter was excited about the Bieber concert tonight.  When asked why I was visiting, I was quick to point out that it wasn't for the concert!

Wedding beneath the planes

Similar to some of the other locations, the game was located in some sort of an “Industrial Park”.   The rain stopped just as I ran inside the building and I was a bit early.  I chatted with the husband and wife team who ran the place and they mentioned how they had been to other places in order to learn and model this game.  When I told them that I had also played a few of these, they asked me to give a comparative feedback at the end.  When the rest of my team arrived, they mentioned that I was a “pro” and they should be fine with me in their team.  Alas, that was not to be, and though we came close, we were nixed at the very end.  It had been a fun hour and I had enjoyed my team.  After telling our hosts that their room was as good as others, I called for a ride to my next destination.

'Plains Art Museum'

I was going to ‘Fargo Air Museum’ which houses several historic aircraft, most of which are still in flying condition.  It was located inside a hangar on an airfield and as can be expected, it was a bit outside town.  After a quick bite to eat I went inside and saw that they were setting up for a wedding.  The guy at the counter said that I had an hour before they closed and so I bought a ticket and went around the covered tables, chairs and fancy buffet table, admiring some of the aircraft on display.  The wedding didn’t extend to an adjacent hangar with more aircraft and after spending some time there, I moved to my next location, ‘Plains Art Museum’.  It was nice place with some good exhibits and very friendly folks at the front desk.  They were setting up for yet another wedding in the museum and this one seemed to have a “Norwegian” theme, at least based on the menu card that I glimpsed.  I spent over an hour here and then went for my final stop of the afternoon – ‘Drekker Brewing Company’.

"Pint It Forward"

I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Fargo was well known for its “Microbreweries” and this was one of them.  They also offered a tour for a nominal donation and so I arrived well in advance of that.  I sat at the bar and ordered a beer and looked at some names on the wall.  When I asked, I learned that you could buy someone a beer under “Pint It Forward” program.  You paid for a beer, wrote someone’s name on a card and they could come and claim that beer during their lifetime – or the lifetime of the brewery.  I asked how many people actually come and claim their pint and it wasn’t that many.  But the brewery will honor that.  I learned that people usually buy a pint for any police officers, though the problem was recognizing someone out of their uniform, because they wouldn’t be able to enjoy a drink in it.  I bought a pint for my friend Amanda and put her name on a card which went on the wall.  I was joined by several people for the tour, as one of the owners took us through their history and then every step of the brewing process, while showing us the equipment and with frequent sampling.  It was a much happier crowd that dispersed after an hour and I headed back to the hotel for a brief rest before my evening.

There was still some crowd – and by that I mean young women – outside my hotel when I left for the evening.  My first stop was at a place called ‘Toasted Frog’ and the place was full.  I got a seat at the bar and learned that most were “pre-gaming” before the concert.  I struck up a conversation with a young lady who was visiting from Minneapolis and along with her friends was on her way to the concert as well.  She was originally from Sweden and so we discussed everything from Soccer to ‘ABBA’ to finally Bieber.  She went to rejoin her friends and I moved to my next location, a place called ‘Hodo Lounge’, another place known for their craft cocktails.  I chatted with the bartender, who even made me something off the menu and which came complete with a pyrotechnics show.  When he learned that I was from Chicago, he told me about his friend from here who had moved to Chicago and was now working in a “Speakeasy” cocktail place.  I told him that I would look her up.  My last stop for the evening was in the adjacent dining room overlooking the street and I retired early…way before the concert would have reached its peak. 

Final morning in Fargo

My final morning in Fargo I went for breakfast at a place called ‘Atomic Café’. Despite spilling coffee all over my table, I enjoyed the Sunday morning breakfast at a small town café, while observing people who looked like they were recovering from the concert.  I still had a few more buildings left on my audio tour and I walked around trying to visit as many as I could.  At one stage I found myself on the other side of the railway crossing as a goods train passed by and that is never fun, especially since you never know how long it’s going to take.  I came back to the hotel, picked up my bag and was given a ride to the airport by a young valet who said that he was originally from Philadelphia and was studying here.  We talked about the Bieber concert and he told me how Bieber was using the main hotel entrance on the first day, but soon realized that the fans were camped outside.  He told me about the Fargo winters and the people over here.  It was a nice ride back; in fact, it had been a great trip.  I have been to 20 places so far, but few have been as small as Fargo in terms of size.  But what a town!  It has one street, but the time that I had here was priceless.  It definitely makes the top half of my list so far and I can’t wait to visit again.  Maybe I should have bought myself a pint to encourage me to come claim it sometime soon.