21. North Dakota

Month: June 2016

Location: Fargo

I first heard about Fargo, along with the rest of the world, through the fantastic movie from all those years ago.  Looking the desolation and all the snow, I had thought that it was unlikely that I would ever visit there.  But then started this quest and as I looked at North Dakota, there were just 2 choices – either go to Bismarck and visit a ‘National Park’ or else enjoy the city life in Fargo…well as much city life as Fargo could offer.  So I decided to go to Fargo and arrived on a bright summer afternoon.  I took a cab – the cab drivers stand with a sign in the terminal and you pick one - to my hotel and after checking-in, settled down to plan my evening.

The main street of Fargo

The first thing that I found was an online library of a self-guided walking tour of the downtown.  Fargo is, well, a “one street town”; so all the stops on the tour were on that main street, with a few detours on the side.  As is usually the case, my friend had prepared for me a list of attractions in Fargo, and almost all of them comprised of places to either eat or drink.  I entered all of them in ‘Google Maps’ and lo and behold, all of them lined up along the main street. So with my map and the audio tour files loaded on my phone, I set off to explore the town.

The shop inside an old train terminal

My first stop was a place called ‘Proof Artisan Distillery’ which looked like a good old fashioned salon with tiles on the floor and Gin bottles behind the bar.  After a drink there, I walked across the street to a place called ‘Great Northern Bicycle Company’, which as the name states, is a shop selling Bicycles and gear for riders.  This was the first stop on my audio tour and the reason why it is special is because the shop has been built inside an old train terminal and in fact, the train lines still run behind the place.  After that I went over to the main street and continued my tour which was had a great narrative, not only in terms of the architecture, but also the history behind the buildings.  I went inside a store called ‘Zandbroz Variety’, a store that can only be found in a small town.  When they say “Variety”, they mean it.  This store had everything, from Books, to Souvenirs to household objects and other random things that people buy.  Plus, at the back of the shop they had something that looked like a coffee shop, complete with a library type environment. 

Fargo Theatre

After walking about a bit I came out and saw the sign for ‘Fargo Theatre’.  There is something extremely charming about cinema halls that are not “Multiplex’s”.  Every one of them looks the same, with their vertical sign and titles that have been assembled by hand.  Plus, this was reputed to have an “organ”, which unfortunately was on the 2^nd floor and one needed a ticket to go and see.  I was listening to the audio tour as I went on and my next stop was in a place called ‘Mezzaluna’.  It was tucked away in back of a building, but based on the number of people inside; it seemed to be quite popular.  I got a seat at the bar and had a cocktail while chatting with the bartender, especially since this was the first time that I had seen Vodka on tap!  I continued my walk and stopped at a place called ‘The Boiler Room’, which was in a basement, but another popular establishment. After another cocktail, I was on my way…this evening taking a distinct theme.

The crowd outside my hotel

The streets were coming alive and now it was looking like a proper Friday evening.  I love myself some German Beer and there was a place called ‘Wurst Bier Hall’.  It was as lively as a bar like this should be, and after a beer and pretzel, I went to my final stop of the evening, a place called ‘Vinyl Taco’.  As soon as one enters this place, they are hit by 80s music and a décor which would not have been out of place during that decade.  Plus it’s a taco place…and a good one at that.  I enjoyed my stay there and then it was time to call it a day.  I walked back to my hotel, but as I approached the entrance, I noticed a big crowd of young ladies outside.  They seemed to be waiting for someone and it sure wasn’t me.  I didn’t give much thought to it and went upstairs to retire.

The back room at 'Zanbroz Variety'

Next day dawned with threatening skies which seemed to grow darker as I walked to get breakfast at a place called ‘Sandy’s Donuts’.  I saw a ‘Make-A-Wish’ sign in there and learned that earlier in the morning Justin Bieber had been there, granting a wish.  He was here for a concert this evening and furthermore he was staying in my hotel.  This explained everything.  The reason why there was this crowd outside the hotel last night.  I went back to 'Zandbroz' for a bit and then walked back to the hotel just as the skies opened up.  I called an ‘Uber’ to my destination for this morning – an “Escape Room” game.  On the way there I had a good conversation with my driver and he was telling me about living in Fargo, the economy and how his teenage daughter was excited about the Bieber concert tonight.  When asked why I was visiting, I was quick to point out that it wasn't for the concert!

Wedding beneath the planes

Similar to some of the other locations, the game was located in some sort of an “Industrial Park”.   The rain stopped just as I ran inside the building and I was a bit early.  I chatted with the husband and wife team who ran the place and they mentioned how they had been to other places in order to learn and model this game.  When I told them that I had also played a few of these, they asked me to give a comparative feedback at the end.  When the rest of my team arrived, they mentioned that I was a “pro” and they should be fine with me in their team.  Alas, that was not to be, and though we came close, we were nixed at the very end.  It had been a fun hour and I had enjoyed my team.  After telling our hosts that their room was as good as others, I called for a ride to my next destination.

'Plains Art Museum'

I was going to ‘Fargo Air Museum’ which houses several historic aircraft, most of which are still in flying condition.  It was located inside a hangar on an airfield and as can be expected, it was a bit outside town.  After a quick bite to eat I went inside and saw that they were setting up for a wedding.  The guy at the counter said that I had an hour before they closed and so I bought a ticket and went around the covered tables, chairs and fancy buffet table, admiring some of the aircraft on display.  The wedding didn’t extend to an adjacent hangar with more aircraft and after spending some time there, I moved to my next location, ‘Plains Art Museum’.  It was nice place with some good exhibits and very friendly folks at the front desk.  They were setting up for yet another wedding in the museum and this one seemed to have a “Norwegian” theme, at least based on the menu card that I glimpsed.  I spent over an hour here and then went for my final stop of the afternoon – ‘Drekker Brewing Company’.

"Pint It Forward"

I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Fargo was well known for its “Microbreweries” and this was one of them.  They also offered a tour for a nominal donation and so I arrived well in advance of that.  I sat at the bar and ordered a beer and looked at some names on the wall.  When I asked, I learned that you could buy someone a beer under “Pint It Forward” program.  You paid for a beer, wrote someone’s name on a card and they could come and claim that beer during their lifetime – or the lifetime of the brewery.  I asked how many people actually come and claim their pint and it wasn’t that many.  But the brewery will honor that.  I learned that people usually buy a pint for any police officers, though the problem was recognizing someone out of their uniform, because they wouldn’t be able to enjoy a drink in it.  I bought a pint for my friend Amanda and put her name on a card which went on the wall.  I was joined by several people for the tour, as one of the owners took us through their history and then every step of the brewing process, while showing us the equipment and with frequent sampling.  It was a much happier crowd that dispersed after an hour and I headed back to the hotel for a brief rest before my evening.

There was still some crowd – and by that I mean young women – outside my hotel when I left for the evening.  My first stop was at a place called ‘Toasted Frog’ and the place was full.  I got a seat at the bar and learned that most were “pre-gaming” before the concert.  I struck up a conversation with a young lady who was visiting from Minneapolis and along with her friends was on her way to the concert as well.  She was originally from Sweden and so we discussed everything from Soccer to ‘ABBA’ to finally Bieber.  She went to rejoin her friends and I moved to my next location, a place called ‘Hodo Lounge’, another place known for their craft cocktails.  I chatted with the bartender, who even made me something off the menu and which came complete with a pyrotechnics show.  When he learned that I was from Chicago, he told me about his friend from here who had moved to Chicago and was now working in a “Speakeasy” cocktail place.  I told him that I would look her up.  My last stop for the evening was in the adjacent dining room overlooking the street and I retired early…way before the concert would have reached its peak. 

Final morning in Fargo

My final morning in Fargo I went for breakfast at a place called ‘Atomic Café’. Despite spilling coffee all over my table, I enjoyed the Sunday morning breakfast at a small town café, while observing people who looked like they were recovering from the concert.  I still had a few more buildings left on my audio tour and I walked around trying to visit as many as I could.  At one stage I found myself on the other side of the railway crossing as a goods train passed by and that is never fun, especially since you never know how long it’s going to take.  I came back to the hotel, picked up my bag and was given a ride to the airport by a young valet who said that he was originally from Philadelphia and was studying here.  We talked about the Bieber concert and he told me how Bieber was using the main hotel entrance on the first day, but soon realized that the fans were camped outside.  He told me about the Fargo winters and the people over here.  It was a nice ride back; in fact, it had been a great trip.  I have been to 20 places so far, but few have been as small as Fargo in terms of size.  But what a town!  It has one street, but the time that I had here was priceless.  It definitely makes the top half of my list so far and I can’t wait to visit again.  Maybe I should have bought myself a pint to encourage me to come claim it sometime soon.

20. Maryland

Month: May 2016

Location: Baltimore

When I told people that I was going to Baltimore, the 2 things that they mentioned were, “Crabs” and the TV show “The Wire”.  While I enjoy the former, I never got into the latter.  So I wasn’t going to get too excited or do a “Wire tour”, if such thing were available.  I arrived in Baltimore in the afternoon and after some searching found the train station.  The next problem was finding the ticket vending machine and after asking around, I managed to get a ticket just as the train was approaching.  I rode it into the downtown, and got off a few blocks from my hotel, using the map on my phone the rest of the way.  I checked in and then got down to the most important activity for the evening – where to eat!

Perfect evening on the waterfront

I asked for directions to the waterfront and it was a pleasant late afternoon as I set off.  My first destination was ‘Ripley’s Believe It Or Not Museum’ on the "Inner Harbor".  I had visited Orlando’s version of this during my trip there, but has some time to kill.  The very first thing that greeted me for a statue of the “tallest man in the world” and he looked eerily like my Graduate school advisor.  It was a good museum and kept me engrossed for over an hour.  I came out to find that it was not an absolutely gorgeous evening and the waterfront area was coming alive.  I had made dinner reservations, but before that went to a nearby place for a cocktail.  It was a charming place, with wooden interior and was very much a bar that one would expect near a harbor.  I came out and walked through a nearby shopping arcade, before setting off for my dinner.

The fantastic skyline

The restaurant was across the harbor, and I could see it from where I was.  But since there wasn’t a bridge, connecting the 2 sides, I had to go around the harbor and that took a good 30 minutes.  However, I wasn't complaining since the night had set in and the skyline of Baltimore was looking spectacular.  I arrived at the restaurant – ‘Rusty Scupper’ – which had a distinct nautical theme, and which stayed consistent through my order. I had a nice view of the harbor from my table and it was a perfect location for my first night in the city.  I walked back to my hotel and although the hotel bar sounded lively, I was tired and went straight to my room to retire.

'Lexington Market'

I had a busy day and so decided to have an early lunch.  I had done some research on the best “Maryland Crab Cakes” and most had picked a place called ‘Faidley’s Seafood’.  I checked and saw that it was within walking distance of my hotel.  So I set off and as I moved away from the downtown, there was distinct change in the neighborhood and it became more rundown.  The place was inside a building called ‘Lexington Market’, which had other eating places besides this one – most of them ethnic.  It was quite early and there was just one other family besides me in the line.  There were standing tables only and so armed with a “Crab Cake” I took my spot there and discovered that it was as good as advertised.  After I had polished off my plate, I requested an ‘Uber’ and it was an interesting wait outside the market with some colorful language and propositions.  A beat up van pulled up as my ride and on the way the driver mentioned how driving for ‘Uber’ is an alternative to beating up his wife, since now he can just leave home to drive when he gets annoyed.  Nice city!

The outside and inside of one of the artworks

My destination was ‘Baltimore Museum Of Art’ and I arrived a few minutes before the next guided tour.  I walked about a bit before joining my group which had 5 other folks besides me, including a couple who were visiting after 40 years and had come specifically to see ‘Matisse’, which they remembered from back then.  The theme for the tour was “Various forms of art” and for the next hour our guide took us around the museum and regaled us with stories.  It was a very informative tour and I had great time learning about some of the artifacts.  After we had finished, I looked around for a while before calling my ride for the next destination, ‘B&O Railroad Museum’.

The central hall of 'B&O Railroad Museum'

As I arrived at the museum, the skies had started to darken and rain was imminent.  The museum itself had two parts - rooms with history of the railroad and scaled models; and then actual sized locomotives and carriages in a grand hall and some that were outside in the yard.  The hall itself was spectacular and the collection of historical trains was incredible.  The best was the mechanism by which they keep rotating what’s on display, via a center section that can be moved manually like a “turntable”, to align the tracks.  The trains can then either be brought in or taken out and apparently they do this as a show.  I walked through the carriages in there and then went outside where some of the other artifacts were located, including a train which had a carriage long “model train” display.  There was plenty to see and I could have spent more time there, but I was concerned about the weather.  I had in fact turned down a chance to ride in one of the trains since I wanted to get to my next destination before the inevitable downpour.

The fantastic 'Geppi's Museum'

I walked back towards the downtown and almost made it to the end, just getting caught in the rain a few meters from the ‘Geppi’s Entertainment Museum’.  Now I have seen some museums in my time, but nothing like this.  This is a museum dedicated to Comics.  But that’s not the only thing.  It is just so well done.  Everything from the wooden paneling to the lighting, to the décor was fantastic and it is one of the most inviting museums that I have been to.  Each room had its own theme and even the corridors had interesting artifacts, including two life-sized statues of “Superman” on either side.  Plus this wasn’t just a museum about comics – although it was dominate by those.  There were also references to movies and TV shows and a fan could spend hours in this place.  It truly was one of the more enjoyable places that I have visited during my travels.

The museum was right across the famous ‘Camden Yards’, home of the ‘Baltimore Orioles’, though with the weather the way it was, chances of a game were bleak.  It was interesting walk back to my hotel with the rain and dodging the shower bursts via stops in hotel lobbies.  I made it back relatively dry and then hung out in my room for some time before heading out for the evening.  I had asked for some recommendations for cocktail places and had been directed to a bar just around the corner called ‘American Brassiere’.  I went there just as the happy hour crowd was dissipating and after a cocktail, walked towards the harbor.  The unpleasant weather of the day had now turned into a beautiful evening and there is always something special about a waterfront during twilight.  People had come out to enjoy the evening and I savored the ambiance as I walked over towards my dinner destination.

Another perfect evening

I still had some time to spare and had found a couple of other cocktail places around the restaurant.  One of them was a place called ‘Apropoe’s’, which described itself as an “Edgar Allan Poe themed eatery”.  I sat at the bar, ordered a cocktail, and started a conversation with a gentleman next to me.  For the next 30 minutes or so we had a spirited discussion on several topics such as travel, cocktails, pizza, medicine and golf – he was a doctor from Augusta, Georgia, here for a convention and had ordered a pizza.  After we had said our goodbyes, I realized that we had never quite introduced ourselves by name.  This wasn’t the first time during my travels that I have had great conversation with someone without learning their name, and it wouldn’t be the last.  When I had called my dinner restaurant, ‘Charleston’, for reservations a month ago, they had said that they would be busy this night owing to “graduation week”.  I could see several young folks out and about in formal wear, ready to celebrate.  I waited at my restaurant bar and was then directed to a table next to a couple, who I learned were from Jamaica and gave me some valuable tips on what to order.  It was one of the better meals that I have had and for part of the dinner, I enjoyed conversing with them as well.  After dinner I took an ‘Uber’ back to my hotel, a day well spent.

The drinks selection at 'Miss Shirley's'

The first place that I wanted to visit on Sunday was reputed to be the best brunch place in town – ‘Miss Shirley’s Café’.  I arrived to see a huge crowd and was told that the wait would be in the vicinity of an hour.  Well, I really didn’t need to be anywhere in a hurry and so decided to wait.  There were several drink choices on offer for those waiting and all around me people were availing of that opportunity.  But I just waited and it really was an hour before I was seated.  I had studied the menu and had seen a sandwich which according to them was “The Best Breakfast Sandwich in the Nation”.  Now, that is a lofty claim and so I just had to try it.  While it was very good, I doubt if it lived up to its reputation.  I called for a ride to my next destination, not sure if the wait had been worth my time.

The 'Museum of Industry'

I was headed to ‘The Baltimore Museum of Industry’, which proved to be further away than I had thought.  But once I was there, I was glad to have come, since I had a very good time.  The museum – as they say in their description – is a “celebration of Maryland’s industrial legacy” and takes a visitor through various types of industry that once thrived in this area, such as “oyster cannery”, “printing press”, “tool makers” etc.  As I walked through the various rooms, which had been reproduced in their original setting from 75-100 years ago, I was reminded of the ‘Flour Museum’ in Minneapolis.  Although there was a guided tour which I would have loved to attend, I had limited time and wanted to visit one more place before I left for the airport; something that I try and visit in every state - a “Science Museum”. 

Yeah, I can live here

The ‘Maryland Science Center’ was near the waterfront, as was this museum and so I decided to walk over there.  The walk took me along the "Inner Harbor" and past some of the more expensive gated communities, all overlooking the downtown skyline.  The science center was full of kids as usual and I spent my remaining time over there, even attending a few shows.  Finally, in the late afternoon, I walked back to my hotel to pick up my bag and head to the airport.  I had no idea what to expect over here, but had enjoyed my time in the city – having eaten some good food, visited some interesting places and met some cool people.  It is a trend which has been consistent throughout my travels.

19. Kentucky

Month: April 2016

Location: Louisville

“Kentucky: Fast Horses, Smooth Bourbon”

Welcome to Louisville

This is how natives of Kentucky describe their home state.  I had never been a big Bourbon drinker; neither have I ever been on a horse.  But going to Louisville was very appealing, and I even considered doing it during the ‘Derby’ weekend – which would have definitely hurt my bank account.  So I decided to go a couple of weekends prior to the big one and also booked myself on a full day ‘Bourbon Trail’ tour.  I took the short flight and arrived in Louisville on a Friday afternoon, ready for an adventure.

The charming 'Brown Hotel'

I had booked myself in something called ‘Brown Hotel’ and while that sounds sketchy, little was I to know that it was in fact a very historic hotel and the lobby felt like something from the "colonial era". Even the room looked like it was someone’s residence rather than a typical hotel.  After settling in I came down to the hotel bar a bit earlier in the afternoon – hey its 5 O’clock somewhere…in the 'Atlantic'.  The bar itself was in the lobby and so had a nice ambiance  As soon as I settled down, I heard a couple next to me ask the gentleman behind the bar if they could get a “stamp”.  They guy then proceeded to give them a 4 digit code which they entered into their phone.  Upon inquiry, I learned that this bar was a part of the “Urban Bourbon Trail”, where one downloaded an app on their phone, visited at least 6 of the 30+ locations in Louisville and got a 4 digit code to “stamp” their visit.  This would make them eligible to receive a t-shirt.  I said “Sign me up”, assuming that consuming 6 drinks at 6 locations would not be a stretch.  I ordered a Bourbon cocktail and received my code.  The guy tried to help me out by giving me other codes but I refused, saying that not only was it unfair, it took the fun out of this.

The caverns under Louisville

My plans for the early evening included a visit to a place called ‘Mega Caverns’, which are man-made caverns which cover over 17-miles of the Louisville underground.  Amongst other things, they have they “World’s only underground Zipline Course”, an “Underground Ropes Challenge”, “Underground Dirt Bike Course” and a tour on something called “Mega Tram”.  I had tickets on the said tram and so took an ‘Uber’ to the outskirts of downtown to the caverns.  My driver gave me a good overview of the place, the festival that was taking place this weekend, the college sports that dominate the region, the upcoming ‘Derby’ and of course, what makes Kentucky the land of Bourbon, which I learned was the water that is naturally filtered through the ‘Limestone’ that forms the majority of the State’s crust.  She also told me that this weekend kicked off the ‘Derby’ season with a spectacular fireworks display tomorrow night called “Lights Over Louisville”, for which hundreds of thousands of people were expected.

This is how it would looked like in case of a "Nuclear Winter"

I was dropped off at the entrance of the Caverns, which did resemble a mine, and walked through some long corridors to enter what looked like the “Batcave”, but less grim.  I checked in and was told to head to a tram which was two open trolleys’ pulled by a jeep.  Joining me were dozens and dozens of screaming high school teenagers…again.  I sat in the 1^st row of the leading trolley and was soon surrounded by the kids.  Our guide climbed in the jeep and we set off going deep inside the caverns, which are essentially storage units for salt.  It was chilly inside and a surreal feeling to be in there.  Unlike caves which are claustrophobic, these were wide open spaces with tall ceilings and broad paths.  The caverns were built during the “Cold War” era as potential “Nuclear Shelters” and there was even a setup of how people would live there and it wasn’t pretty.  If that situation had become a reality, the existence in these caverns would have been survival, but no better fate than being locked in a dungeon for 2 years.  Later, when the threat was nullified, this property was purchased by a private owner, who capitalized by making it a tourist attraction and why not!  Our guide was getting off at various points and telling us about the caverns, including a section where she showed us a box of worms that acts as a natural “recycling center”.  As we drove through, I thought that the best time to visit the caverns would be during the holiday season, when they decorate it with lights and vehicles can drive through this spectacular show.

The magnificent bar at 'Buck's' 

The ride was great and the kids weren’t as big a problem as I had feared.  I ordered an ‘Uber’ and headed to my next destination, which I had selected near the restaurant where I was having dinner.  I was determined to get 6 “stamps” and hence had found a place called 'Buck’s' which was in a quaint neighborhood. In fact, it turned out to be an extraordinarily charming place, more so since many kids were coming here on a date, as if headed to a prom.  Plus the bar area was brilliant and I ordered a cocktail called “The Kiss of Kentucky” and had entered my 4-digit code even before taking a sip. 2 down, 4 to go.

Beautiful evening walk

I left the bar and walked over to my dinner place through an extremely charming neighborhood.  Away from the hustle and bustle of the downtown area is ‘610 Magnolia’, a restaurant that has gained rave reviews and for good reason.  Right from the outside of the building – which wasn’t easy to spot – to the dining area, everything was fantastic.  And then there was the food, which was as good as can be expected.  My phone was on its last legs and my biggest concern was not having enough juice to order an ‘Uber’.  But I barely survived and with the last bit of battery life, ordered my ride back to the hotel, once again engaging the driver in a fruitful discussion about the city.  Day 1 had been a good one.

I had learnt that the signature dish of Louisville had been invented in the very hotel that I was staying in.  Called “The Hot Brown”, it has everything that is fattening in life and so looks absolutely delicious.  I wanted to try it, but the only time that I could do so was for breakfast, before I left for my Bourbon tour.  So early in the morning I went to the hotel restaurant and ordered one of those - a piping hot skillet with toast, meat, “Mornay sauce” and lots of cheese.  It was a meal and a half and there was no way I could finish it.  With a partially burnt palate and a lot of guilt, I set off for the meeting location for my tour, which was about a mile away.  It was a nice walk through the downtown “party street”, which was lined with restaurants, and even had an enclosed block with a music stage at the center of it.  I imagine this to be a popular destination on Saturday nights, especially tonight with the other festivities.

This looked like the "party street"

I arrived at ‘Galt Hotel’, which was where ‘Mint Julip Tours’ had their office and went upstairs to see that a group had assembled.  Our guide was a gentleman named Chuck, who guided us to a small bus and we were off.  The “Bourbon Trail” comprises of 9 distilleries which are spread over the countryside and we were visiting 3 of them today.  Chuck was not only distinguished in the history and nuances of Bourbon, but also an avid horse enthusiast.  He said that since the ‘Derby’ was coming up, with our permission, he would like to take us through the historic ‘Churchill Downs Racetrack’ before leaving for our first stop.  We liked that idea and Chuck then told us all about the history of the race, some of the anecdotes from his experiences over the years and even gave us a tip for the projected winner.  It was a beautiful morning for going to the racetrack, even if it was just a drive through.  As we went past the stables and the facility, Chuck kept feeding us trivia including one where he mentioned that because of the age restriction on the horses, they just have one shot at winning the ‘Derby’.  He really was quite knowledgeable and took all of our questions.  Plus he was funny and had a calm persona, making him the perfect person to spend the day with.

The beautiful 'Bardstown'

As we left the city, I began to appreciate how beautiful the Kentucky countryside is.  It is green with expansive meadows and rolling hills and it was no surprise to enter a town called ‘Bardstown’ and see a sign, “Most Beautiful Small Town In America”.  Our first stop was at a distiller called ‘Heaven Hill’.  As soon as we got off the bus, we were whisked – get it, "whisked” for “whiskey”, never mind – off to the back tasting room, where a representative of the company was waiting with some bottles.  He then proceeded to tell us about types of Bourbon – wheat vs rye – and how to taste each and the associated nuances.  Unlike our upcoming stops which included a tour of the distillery, we just tasted here and so after having our fill of Bourbon, we were directed to the gift shop.  While others bought some bottles, I couldn’t do so because of my carry-on, and they did not ship.  So I got on the bus without anything to show for and we were off to our next stop.

Bourbon tasting

Perhaps the most recognizable brand of Bourbon is the bottle with a red wax seal – ‘Makers Mark’, and that is where we were headed.  As we went deeper into the countryside, it became prettier and more than once I saw farms with horses running around.  We arrived at the distillery which is distinguished because of their hundreds of Bourbon “cask houses” that are painted black.  We got off our bus and it looked like they were having a busy day because besides our team, there were other groups.  But they have been conducting tours for years and so have this down.  After a brief wait in their waiting area, we were led to the distillery where we were shown the stills and the fermentation vats, with an option to state the yeast infused batch.  We were then shown their oak barrels and the storage area, followed by the famous bottling station, which includes the red wax seal.  We were ready for the tasting room and after sipping on their different batches, we ended up in the gift shop where one had an option of sealing their own bottle by dipping in hot wax.  I did not make a purchase, but I did sign up for having my name put on a batch, wherein I would be eligible for purchasing a bottle from that cask.

The famous pie at 'Kurtz'

We boarded the bus and Chuck mentioned that our next stop would be for lunch at a restaurant called ‘Kurtz’ that has been in a family for 4 generations – and at least 3 of them would be on hand to serve us.  Plus he mentioned that they were known for their “Meringue Pie”, in fact telling us to start with that and then work our way backwards.  The place was very homely and we were all in a small room which looked like it belonged in a house, rather than a restaurant.  We were served by the family members and they were very courteous and friendly.  In keeping with the theme of the day, I ordered a “Mint Julip” as a lunchtime cocktail and the “Chocolate Meringue Pie” was as advertised.

The creepy "Cask Houses"

Post lunch we departed for our final stop on the tour, ‘Barton 1792’.  We arrived at the distillery and their tour guide started us off by showing the room where they have their “stills” but then took us to one of the places where they “house” the barrels.  Besides the limestone filtered water, one of the things that makes Bourbon special is their “barrel aging” process, which they claim is different than making ‘Whiskey’ or ‘Scotch’.  The barrels are used just once and there isn't an exact time on how long the Bourbon stays inside the barrel, than when the distiller decides to bottle it, based on taste.  These barrels are stored for years in a non-climate controlled environment, with the natural “heating” and “cooling” during the seasons, leading to expansion and contraction of the barrels, and thus different levels of penetration of the Bourbon into and out of the wood cask.  The houses themselves were very dark places with rickety flooring and creepy passages.  There were wooden planks and cables that passed off as elevators to bring the barrels up and down.  I must admit that place was a bit spooky and I for one wouldn’t want to be caught there by myself.  We left the storage houses and went straight for the tasting and then that was it as far as the tour was concerned.  We got on the bus and made the long trip back to Louisville downtown, which was just starting to get full for the fireworks show. Chuck said that this area would be jam packed in a few hours, meaning I headed in the opposite direction before the madness started.

I was "Bourbon'ed out"

I wanted to add another “stamp” to my collection and so stopped at a bar in another historic hotel called ‘Seelbach’.  Once again, I saw a lot of teenagers dressed as if they were on their way to the prom.  I finished my cocktail and went back to my room for a bit of “R&R” prior to dinner.  I was headed to a German restaurant called ‘Eiderdown’ and it was nice to be able to enjoy some Beer after a day spent drinking Bourbon.  Another thing that was good was its location, which was away from downtown, in a very isolated part of town.  But I was able to get an ‘Uber’ to and fro, and before heading back to my room, I continued my “Urban Bourbon Trail”, with a stop at a nearby bar called ‘Marketplace’.  It was a “live music” place, though I was a bit late for that.  I went back to my room and saw the last of the fireworks through my window before calling it a day.

That apparition is me as a "Virtual Goalkeeper"

I had a busy day today and in order to get through everything, had to leave the hotel early.  My first destination was ‘Kentucky Science Center’ and I reached there just as they opened, being the first visitor of the day.  It felt odd to be the only person wandering about the hallways and so I went and got some coffee and came back to find that a few more visitors had come in.  While it’s not Chicago’s ‘Museum Of Science & Industry’, it is a decent museum and I had a great time navigating through its various exhibits, including one where a “motion capture camera” puts one in the middle of a sports game.  I tried one where I was the "Soccer Goalkeeper" and through waving my arms was trying to save virtual soccer balls being hurled at me – not very successfully I might add.  I had a great time though and it had been a morning well spent.

The surprisingly nice '21 Cent Hotel'

I had lunch reservations at a restaurant called ‘Oakroom’ in the ‘Seelbach’.  This is an elegant place and their claim to fame is an expansive “Sunday Brunch Buffet”.  To say that it was outstanding would be an understatement and the food was as good as the setting.  Plus, not to be left behind, Bourbon made its appearance in a “Cheesecake”.  After brunch I was on my way to the ‘Frazier History Museum’ but stopped over at '21 Cent Hotel', a free art museum that has been integrated into a hotel.  For a free exhibit, the galleries were pretty good and the place had a decent turnout.  I stayed there for about 20 minutes and then proceeded towards the history museum, which turned out to be one of the premier attractions of Louisville.

With the "Big Boss"

The top floor has 2 main exhibits, both done in an outstanding way.  The first one is the history of “Prohibition” during the “20s”.  It was a very detailed look at what happened back then and how the act was enforced and later repelled.  There was a life size statue of the infamous Al Capone sitting a table and I took a selfie with him.  The 2^nd exhibit was on the “Lewis and Clark Expedition” and it was truly a great view of their journey and everything before, during and after.  The set pieces were well done and it gave the visitor a complete picture of their adventures.  The other exhibits were on the “Revolutionary War” and the “Civil War” and I wandered through the museum for a couple of hours, before crossing the street for my last stop.

The giant Baseball bat

One of the unmissable things around this part of the town is the giant Baseball bat outside the ‘Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory’.  Now, not having grown up playing Baseball, I did not know the significance of this place. But as I took a guided tour of the factory, I learned that most of the ‘MLB’ players – including some of the legends – had at some point used the bats made over here.  Plus, almost every kid growing up wanted town one of these.  It was interesting to see that while machinery has taken over most of the processes, there are still a few skilled people who can produce a Baseball bat with hand.  Even more amazing thing to learn was that this was it, their main factory and there were bats being made in front of our eyes, which would be used in a game within a few weeks.  The tour was really good and so was the rest of the museum.  There were exhibits on the evolution of the bats, full size statues of great players and other things.  But the most fascinating thing was a batting cage with a “Major League Pitcher” simulation of a fast ball.  I’ll tell you what.  I always thought that being a “NFL Quarterback” was the most difficult thing to do, but hitting a ball travelling at 95 mph is pretty close to impossible.

Damn right I did!

That was it in terms of visits to museums, but there was yet one goal that needed to be completed.  I still required 2 more “stamps” for my “Urban Bourbon Trail”, and I stopped at a bar called ‘Sway’, which had a friendly bartender and his assistant, who claimed to be supporting one of the teams playing in a ‘MLS’ game on TV.  The problem was that none of us knew which colors his favorite team was wearing and so did not know who to root for!  After a cocktail there I went for my final "stamp" to a place called ‘Bourbon Raw’, where I met a couple who was visiting from Wisconsin, and I gave them some tips on where to go over the next few days that they would be here.  I still had time for a quick bite to eat and did so while staring at the main street where a lot of people were outside enjoying the sun.  I took a shuttle back to the airport, after a splendid trip.  I was glad not to have come during the ‘Derby’ weekend since I wouldn’t have enjoyed myself as much as I had done over the last couple of days.  My final vindication was in a couple of weeks when I received my t-shirt for completing the ‘Urban Bourbon Trail’ challenge.

18. District Of Columbia

Month: March 2016

Location: Washington D.C.

'National Mall' from the air

Back when I was in middle school…a long long time ago, I always had trouble with languages, especially the native ones.  This meant that my poor Mom had to spend a long time coaching me and there were long nights with her trying to get me to appreciate the nuances and subtleties of our regional dialect.  One such night we came across an essay in my textbook, the title of which translates to “The Pink Blossom of the Cherries”.  At first I thought it was something about the fruit Cherry, and not being a big fan of the languages in the first place, I just wanted it over with.  But as she read through the essay, we learned that this was the author's visit to Washington D.C. in the U.S. during something known as the “National Cherry Blossom Festival”.  As my mom described the author’s description of this unique event, where hundreds of trees lined around a pool were covered with millions of flowers with a pinkish hue, the essay transcended from prose into poetry, so much so that even I was mesmerized.  But the thing I remember the most was the look on my mom’s face, which was almost a longing to visit this place.  Seasons changed and years went by and every time I heard the words “Washington DC” or even “Cherry” or “Blossom”, I would think of that image in my mind.  I came to the U.S. and over the years had visited D.C. on numerous occasions, but never during this festival.  When I started this journey, I knew for sure that this would be chance to fulfill that promise.  But it isn’t easy to predict when the bloom would occur and after I had made my travel plans, the report predicted a bloom for the week after the one that I would be there.  It seemed like I would once again miss this opportunity.

It was the long ‘Easter’ weekend and I arrived in D.C. on the morning of ‘Good Friday’.  After seeking out the train terminal to get to the city – which required some walking – I boarded a train to downtown and it got crowded very fast.  I have traveled by underground trains all over the country, but the stations and the trains in D.C. are by far the best, fitting for the Nation’s Capital.  I emerged from the station and was pleased to see that it was right across my hotel…though my room wasn’t quite ready.  I left my luggage with the concierge and asked a gentleman who looked like he knew the city intimately, where to go for some lunch.  He told me to try a place called ‘Hamilton’ a few blocks away and I set off.  I found the place, which looked elegant and the interior resembled an “old world charm”.  I sat at the bar and the bartender was a thorough gentleman as well.  Later as I went to the washroom, I saw that this restaurant was huge and even had a bar on the top floor that was reputed to have good cocktails.

"Wright Brothers" exhibit

I left the restaurant and started making my way towards the ‘National Mall’.  As I passed by the Government buildings, I saw that this was going to be an extremely crowded weekend in D.C.  I arrived at the heart of the ‘Mall’ and my destination was the one place that I always visit first when I come to D.C., ‘National Air & Space Museum’.  As I approached the museum, I saw that there was a huge line - I mean really long – to get in and that was for anyone carrying a bag, which I was.  It took me over 20 minutes to get inside and it always amazes me to see all of the historic artifacts related to aviation and space exploration.  I went to the help desk and learnt that I was just in time for a guided tour.  A gentleman was just getting started with a big group and I joined them, just as he was about to lead everyone to the first gallery - “The Wright Brothers”.  It was fantastic to hear the story of their “first flight” and everything else that followed in the early history of aviation.  I was asking a lot of questions and our guide was excellent in answering those.  We moved through various galleries on the “World Wars”, “Apollo Missions” and other stories of brave men and women who were pioneers of their times.  After the conclusion of the tour, I roamed through some of the galleries – which were now crowded – and emerged outside in late afternoon, ready for my favorite activity in D.C.

What I had been waiting for

Whenever I have come here by myself I have always followed a routine, which includes a visit to this museum and then a walk down the long ‘National Mall’, all the way to the ‘Lincoln Memorial’.  I usually arrive at twilight and then there is nothing better than sitting on those steps in the early evening air, looking at the ‘Reflecting Pool’.  I have had some incredibly peaceful moments there in the past and I was hoping for a similar experience.  As I started walking, I saw it - amidst some construction, stood a ‘Cherry Blossom’ tree in full bloom.  I was on time.  I stood underneath and reached over to touch it and it was incredible.  Typically I walk past the ‘Washington Monument’ and continue on towards the ‘World War II Memorial’, but the best part of this festival is the trees lined up alongside the ‘Tidal Basin’ leading up to the ‘Jefferson Memorial’.  Today that place covered with the most amazing shade of pink and was crowded with thousands of visitors who had come here for this exact reason. 

The avenue of Pink

I entered the place and made my way through a mass of humanity to a walkway which had trees on either side and with the full bloom; it had form an arched avenue of pink.  It was a surreal feeling to go through that path and despite the crowd; it was the most peaceful setting.  I approached the ‘Jefferson Memorial’ and stood on the top of the stairs taking in the outstanding sight.  I started back on the other side and walked past ‘Martin Luther King Memorial’ and back on the path towards my earlier destination.  I walked up the stairs of the ‘Lincoln Memorial’ and though it was crowded, found a spot to settle in and look upon the ‘Reflecting Pool’.  I had bought with me a book to read and it was perfect for that setting.  The evening had started to settle in and while I didn’t wait till it was dark, I stayed for enough time to have made this journey worthwhile.

I set about in the cool evening breeze towards my dinner destination, though dinner was still hours away.  I walked through the streets and past some very pretty neighborhoods, even stopping at an occasional fountain to “make a wish”, which with this enchanting evening, had as much of a chance of coming true as any other day.  Around the popular ‘DuPont Circle’ neighborhood, I came across a cocktail lounge called ‘Dirty Martini’.  I went inside and it was just the right place to relax for an hour or so and that’s what I did prior to proceeding to my dinner destination, a place called ‘Komi’ which was a perfect end to the day.

Yes, I made a wish

I had planned a unique activity for my 2^nd day in D.C., something that I never do, especially for a place that I have been to several times – a guided walking tour of the city.  It was going to take up most of the day, and so prior to that I sought out a nice location for brunch.  I saw that I could easily walk there in about 20 minutes and so set off from my hotel, realizing after a mile or so that as is mostly the case, I was headed in the wrong direction.  Since I was pressed for time, it looked likely that I may have to skip brunch, but fortunately I found a cab and it took me to the restaurant called ‘Firefly’, which is as charming as it comes for brunch.  Also, it was near the meeting place for the start of the tour, so after brunch I set off with what I perceived as time to spare.  Alas, it wasn’t so.

We were supposed to meet at a certain spot near ‘DuPont Circle’, but the problem with a circle is that it’s not a grid, meaning intersections are difficult to spot.  Also, even though the streets are named in successive letters of the alphabets, all bets were off over here.  After making several passes and failing to locate my group, I made a couple of calls to the agency, both of which reached a voicemail.  Fortunately, my tour guide called me back and asked me to wait at a certain location.  She came to fetch me and took me to a spot just around the corner where everyone was waiting – the one spot I had not checked out!  It was a decent sized group and our guide Becca gathered all of us and we started with the history of Washington D.C., including some of the sordid past which led to the city being established.  We then started walking down the ‘Embassy Row’, stopping frequently at several buildings, where Becca told us about some of the unique characteristics or history associated with them.

Our tour took us back to 'The Mall'

It was a nice day for a walk and Becca was an excellent guide. We walked through the ‘Georgetown’ neighborhood which has had some famous residents and up to the ‘Waterfront’, with all of its restaurants and the nightlife.  This was the half-way point of the tour and a family left the group at this stage.  The rest of us continued and stopped at a food-court for lunch.  Post lunch Becca took us outside the infamous ‘Watergate Hotel’ and then for the next 30 minutes or so, she told us about the scandal that took down a “Presidency”.  We then walked through ‘Foggy Bottom’ neighborhood and arrived at the ‘Lincoln Memorial’, which was more crowded than I had ever seen.  Even though I have been here several times, I learned a lot more from Becca.  We then walked past the crowded ‘Mall’ to the ‘Vietnam War Memorial’ which is a fascinating design, and not without its own controversy.  After a visit to the ‘World War II’ memorial, and ‘Washington Monument’, we concluded our tour outside the ‘White House’.  Becca had been outstanding and I couldn’t help but admire her stamina and enthusiasm that she had maintained for the past 6.5 hours.  Going on this tour had been one of the best decisions that I had made.

Yep, that's the dessert

After changing at Hotel, I left for my dinner destination at ‘Jose Andreas Minibar’ – a reservation that I had made months ago.  Once again, I was lost and arrived there after a few detours.  I was led to a waiting area where I sat on what can only be described as a throne made of upholstery that looked like marble.  I was joined by another diner and we were presented with couple of the courses of our “tasting experience”, before being led into the kitchen table.  For the next hour and more we were treated to some splendid tastings and I enjoyed my conversations with my fellow diner who was visiting from Boston and we exchanged stories on our various dining adventures.  For our dessert tastings we were taken to yet another area, which was a more casual bar and I mentioned that never before in my dining experience had I been moved around various rooms for different courses, which was fantastic.  The explanation was that the Chef wanted all guests to feel as if they were visiting his home and this is how he would welcome them, in various rooms.  In the bar, I got to know some of our other fellow diners, a delightful young man named Newton and his friends.  We ordered some cocktails and the next thing we knew, it was midnight.  Well, there was nothing left to do but for all of us to go to the neighboring ‘Shake Shack’ for some fries!  After bidding Newton and his crew farewell, I stopped for a nightcap at the bar above the ‘Hamilton’ and the party was just getting started when I called it a night.

Recreating a "Masterpiece"

The next day was ‘Easter’ and the roads were deserted as I made my way to the ‘National Gallery of Art’ for a “Museum Hack” adventure.  This was a 2 hour tour of the museum, but not in a traditional way.  It would mostly comprise of the guide telling us the more scandalous stories behind the artifacts - and that’s precisely what happened since our tour guide Hannah, had us in splits.  Besides me there was one lady and a family of 3 with a 16 year old boy and we enjoyed every minute of it.  She pointed out the only ‘Da Vinci’ in the museum and told us, not only the story of its procurement, but also the story of the young woman in the picture.  Apparently her name was Ginevra and she just had the most terrible luck with men.  So Hannah gave us a challenge, saying that we had till the end of the tour to take a picture in the museum of someone who could be Ginevra’s boyfriend.  We continued through the museum, enjoying Hannah’s stories and at one stage even posed to recreate a famous painting – apparently an "after dinner" activity in the old days.  At the end, we were asked to pose as someone in the ‘Rodin’ gallery and I chose to be the ‘Thinker’…what with the ‘Kiss’ being unavailable!  Finally, it was time to discuss the winner of Ginevra’s hand and there were some creative answers, including a modern take with a female companion.  I went last and said that since Ginevra was 16 years old in the picture; I chose the boy in our group and said that he would treat her right.  Everyone loved that answer and I won a prize, which was a refrigerator magnet with Ginevra’s face on it.

I left the museum and got something to eat before going to my next stop, which was the ‘National Museum of Natural History’.  After walking about a bit, I still had time to spare and so visited the extremely dark room of the ‘National Archives’, where they keep the ‘Declaration of Independence’ and the ‘National Museum of American History’, where they keep the flag that inspired the ‘National Anthem’.  I left in the late afternoon and after collecting my baggage took a train to the airport – only to be delayed by over 3 hours because of mechanical issues.  It was just a minor glitch in an otherwise memorable trip. 

Alan Sheppard was the first American in space and was widely expected to be the first man to walk on the moon…until a medical issue grounded him.  Told that he would never fly again, Sheppard refused to give up and on February 5, 1971, he became the 5^th man to walk on the moon.  While not as memorable as Neil Armstrong’s first words; at that moment Sheppard said, “It’s been a long way, but we’re here”.  That distant night in our tiny apartment my mom and I shared a silent, unsaid dream.  It seems like a different lifetime, but on the banks of the ‘Tidal Basin’ this weekend, as I stood under the blanket of the most gorgeous pink that I will ever see, Alan Sheppard’s words came to me.  We were finally here.