32. Utah

Month: May 2017
Location: Salt Lake City

For everyone who believes that all the people they meet are inherently good, well I have news for them.  You will meet some awful people in your life and perhaps even be let down by those whom you trust; making you question your beliefs.  For all those people, I suggest they visit Salt Lake City to know that for every disappointment, there is hope.

One of the best approaches to a city
One of the best decisions that I made was to come to Salt Lake City during daytime, because the approach from the air is just spectacular.  The city and its vicinity – which looks lush green from the air – are cradled inside a valley, surrounded by ice-capped mountains on all sides.  It truly is a gorgeous sight.  I took a cab to my hotel and as soon as I arrived, I knew that this was going to be good.  I don’t know how I had managed to get the deal that I did, but ‘The Grand America Hotel’ looked as luxurious as hotels get.  Not only was it the tallest building in the neighborhood, it was splendid on the inside, with sprawling hallways and high ceilings.  It was one of the fanciest hotels that I have stayed in during these travels.  But there was more to come.

My fantastic hotel
Typically, the “check-in” for all hotels is at 3 pm, whereas I tend to show up much earlier than that.  However, only once have I been turned away for arriving early.  Today was the second time, though they did say that another room was available, but would be $50 a day extra.  Well, I wasn’t paying that and so told the lady at the desk that I would be back later and asked if there was place that I could leave my bag for the day.  As I was taking out some of the critical things like batteries etc., another lady asked me if everything was okay.  I told her that my room wasn’t ready, or rather that there was a room, but they didn’t want to give it to me without an extra charge.  She told me to wait and then went over to have a chat with reception.  Very soon, I was offered not only the room, but also “chocolate chip” cookies.

And that's my terrace!
The first unique thing was that I was given a key – not a key card – as means of entry.  The entry to the room itself was through 2 sets of doors and when I say room, I mean a suite, with a large terrace – not a balcony, a terrace.  Plus the view was that of the mountains.  Not too shabby at all.  I came down and explored the hotel before going out and it had all sorts of amenities, including a shopping area which had a toy store and a “French Patisserie”.  I got my bearings and set off for my brunch at a place called ‘Pig and A Jelly Jar’.  Salt Lake City is organized as a grid with every block being numbered by the 100’s on all 4 sides.  So as far as navigation is concerned, it should not be a difficult proposition, but I still took a couple of wrong turns.  It was a nice day and with the backdrop of the mountains, it was a pleasant walk for the 1 mile that I had to cover to get to the restaurant.  It was a local place which was not too big, though their portions certainly were.

The "Flight" exhibit at 'The Leonardo Museum'
Being well fed, I set off for the afternoon and the first stop was a place called ‘The Leonardo Museum’. The museum describes itself as a place where visitors can explore the connection between science, technology, art and creativity and so naturally, I was curious.  The first level had an exhibit called “Flight”, which was all about the history of man’s quest to fly, with a lot of information on the Physics behind it, as well as a giant plane through which people could walk through.  I saw a few families in there and the kids seemed more interested in things that they could touch rather than reading about the pioneers of aviation.  It was a good exhibit, much more elaborate than the one I saw in Wichita last month, which had been more locally focused.  The second floor was where things were more interactive and there were several activities that one could do such as testing your brain, eyes, hearing etc.  One particular demonstration was where you put on a headphone and tried to speak into a microphone while your voice was fed back to you through those headphones.  It is one of the most disorienting feelings that someone can have.  There were other creative ways of teaching kids about our senses as well as exhibits on aliens and astronomy.  I for one was impressed.  As far as the “art” component was concerned, along the walkway between floors, there were some fascinating sculptures and hangings made out of a material that looked like paper, but was responsive to stimuli.  I am sure I studied this in my past life as a scientist.

The sparse exhibits of the 'Utah Museum of Contemporary Art'
Next door to the museum is the ‘Salt Lake City Public Library’ and it was an impressive building, built into what looked like a small shopping arcade. What made it attractive was the architecture, which allowed for a lot of natural light to come in.  I walked through the building briefly and then proceed towards ‘Utah Museum of Contemporary Art’, which was a bit of a walk, but with the numbered streets, wouldn’t be too difficult to locate. I did find the place and it was…well, small.  There were 2 halls with sparse exhibits and the entry was on a “suggested donation” basis.  I was the only visitor in there and after a short stop; I was done with my museum related activities for the day.  Now it was time for the main event.

The evening commenced
I had planned visits to some cocktail places and in fact had a list.  But since I was done way ahead of time, I stopped at a place which I had seen earlier, called ‘Bourbon House’, and I guess the name gives it away.  I walked down to the basement level and into a place which was just as a Bourbon saloon should be - wooden interiors and full of whiskey.  There was some “Kentucky Derby” related stuff going on TV and I heard the locals discuss the derby which was tomorrow.  I had a cocktail there and left for my next place which was nearby, called ‘Whiskey Street Cocktails and Dining’ – a definite theme was emerging this evening!  Before coming over here, I had discussed with one of my colleagues, who knew the city, about the more “temperate” culture that people in Utah have towards drinking.  Well, based on the crowd and the number of drinking establishments that I saw, that theory was definitely out of the window!

Continuing...
‘Whiskey Street Cocktails’ was very different than the earlier establishment, being less stuffy and more open, leading to a vibrant ambiance.  Plus, based on the quality of the drink that I had, these folks certainly knew their cocktails.  As I emerged from this place, twilight had taken over and with the backdrop of the mountains; the place had assumed an enchanting environment.  It was without a doubt a wonderful evening to be outside.  The next place was on a side street, though there was nothing secretive about it.  Called ‘Good Grammar’, it had a lot of people in there celebrating “Cinco de Mayo”, which I had forgotten was today.

...And then some!
I stayed there for a brief while and then continued on to the next place – as can be seen; I had done my homework and mapped everything out.  It was called ‘Under Current’, and when I arrived there, I saw a dining room, but no bar.  Upon inquiring, I learnt that this place was called ‘Current’ and the place I was looking for was next door – though I would have thought it would be in the basement since it was called “Under Current”.  As I sat at the bar, the gentleman next to me told me that the bartender was the best in the city when it came to “craft cocktails” and looking at the menu, I believed him.  I struck up a conversation with the folks next to me, so much so that I was invited to a birthday party later that evening.  Another successful visit, making friends with the locals!

The fantastic view from 'The Roof Restaurant'
The next stop was a place called ‘Bar-X’ and walking towards that place; I saw that the city had truly come alive with a lot of people sitting outside enjoying the weather.  The interior was more like a “dive bar”, but the cocktail was fantastic.  I still had some time to kill before my dinner reservations and so stopped at a place called ‘Beehive Pub’ for a local brew and was pleased to see something that all brewpubs shout adopt – an ice line where one can place the beer glass to keep it chilled.  I had seen it before and find it to be a brilliant convenience.  I came out of the pub just as it was getting darker and continued to one of the tallest buildings in downtown, the top of which had a restaurant named, well, ‘The Roof Restaurant’. As I had looked for places to eat, this was a name that had come up in several lists.  The catch was that this was a buffet place and I am not too keen on that.  However, the promised that this wasn’t your regular buffet, with the quality of the food being top class, especially their dessert bar.  Plus, they promised that this would be one of the best views of the city.

It was a beautiful night
I took the elevator to the roof and was seated, not quite at the window, but close to it.  And yes, the view was fantastic; not just because of the mountains in the distance, but also because what was closest to us, the ‘Mormon Temple’.  It is by far the most impressive building in the city, with magnificent architecture, accentuated by the lighting that shown upon it during nighttime. It gave the building a surreal look and as I was gazing at it, I struck up a conversation with a couple next to me and we talked about my visit and they gave me some pointers.  The dinner was really good and the desserts, as advertised, were great.  The server kept pointing out that there were two stations – on either side of the piano player – and each had different selections.  I was lucky to sample some from a single side and then after a walk around the dining hall to see some of the other sights – like the ‘Capitol’, it was time to leave.  Since it was a beautiful night, I walked back to my hotel, passing by some of the drinking establishments which were full of folks for whom the evening was just getting underway.  I arrived at my hotel and as much as I wanted to stay for a nightcap, I was tired and so went up to my huge room, to find that the maid had left “macaroons” on my pillow.  Some places leave mints, this place does French pastry!

At 'Publik Coffee Roasters'
The next morning I stepped out on the terrace to enjoy my “macaroons” against the backdrop of the mountains.   Not a bad start to the day.  One of the things that I seek out is a good coffee shop and the one that came up in my search was called ‘Publik Coffee Roasters’.  I decided to walk to the location closest to my hotel and it was away from downtown and in a small lot which looked abandoned.  But inside a building that looked like storage facility was a coffee shop that seemed popular with the locals.  I took my “mocha” and went to the upper level which had several people as well.  Considering that this place was off the beaten path, it was impressive to the see the draw.

What a location!
The place that I had picked for brunch was called ‘Ruth’s Diner’, which was located in a canyon in the mountains.  This meant a nice ride to get there and I talked with my ‘Uber’ driver about living here and the places around the city.  The restaurant was full and as I waited, I admired the view, which gave me a feeling of being in a lodge within a “National Park”.  The interior was cozy and soon after I was seated, the brought me their famous “Mile High Biscuit” which in itself was well worth the visit.  I asked for a “Bloody Mary” and the server looked at her watch and I almost said “Its 5 O’clock somewhere”, when she responded that they start serving cocktails at 11 am.  Considering it was just 10 minutes away, I told her that I could survive till then and after placing my order, soaked in my surroundings which were extremely charming.

The gorgeous 'Red Butte Gardens'
After brunch I called an ‘Uber’ to go towards my next destination, which was ‘Natural History Museum of Utah’.  I arrived there just after 12 pm and learned that a guided tour of the museum had just departed.  The next one was going to be at 2 pm and I wanted to attend that.  So I asked them if there was anything that I could do for the next 2 hours and they told me to go to the nearby ‘Red Butte Gardens’.  I walked over to that building and was given a map which was quite good since it showed the path that a visitor should follow.  I set off on that and for next hour and a bit roamed those beautiful gardens, which wasn’t the worst way to spend some time.

The "solar terrace" at the museum
I came back to the museum and was presented with a fancy lanyard since I was going on a tour.  There was some kid’s related activity going on in the museum today and so it was crowded.  There was still some time before the tour started and so I walked about the museum, especially the outdoor terrace with its array of solar panels – though I beat a hasty retreat from a path when I saw the sign, “Beware of Rattlesnakes”.  I arrived at the meeting point and talked with the tour guide who appeared to be a nice chap.  We waited for others but soon it was apparent that I was the only person on the tour and so with the elaborate lanyard around my neck, we set off.

A typical hall inside a "Natural History" museum
We started with one of the more interesting things in the museum.  I had previously seen projections of trees on the walls and which are interactive when someone’s shadow interrupts the projection.  This one was similar, but my guide told me that the tree was also indicative of the external weather and so swayed more when it was windy and shed leaves during fall.  Now that’s creative.  The museum is quite modern and the architecture reflects that.  We walked through the different galleries, including the “Native American” exhibit as well as a “Dinosaur Hall”. He also told me about the actual lake after which this city is named and how its extreme salinity means that very lifeforms exist in it.  Before visiting the city I had inquired if the lakefront had been developed as a commercial real estate with restaurants and promenade.  Not so much!

Inside the 'Pioneer Memorial Musuem'
The skies were threatening when I left and took an ‘Uber’ to the ‘Pioneer Memorial Museum’, which is known to house the world’s largest collection of artifacts on one subject – the pioneers who settled in Salt Lake City.  As I checked in, a nice lady have me a map of the various rooms and boy, were they full of stuff!  There were 3 floors and a basement, as well as an adjunct space of two floors and they were full of artifacts.  So much so that it reminded me of one of those stores which has vintage things in various corners.  I explored as much as I could, without processing a lot and left after thanking the lady.  While it is an amazing place, there's just too much going on.

The incredible interior of the 'Capitol'
Right next door is the ‘Capitol Building’ and like the ones that I have seen in other cities, the grounds around the building were fantastic.  But nothing prepared me for the interior.  This was one of the most beautiful places that I have been in, let alone a government building.  In fact if someone would have said to me that this was the main room of a palace, I would have believed them.  With marble pillars and ornate paintings on the wall, I was glad that the building was open despite this being a Saturday.  For any visitor coming here, this should be a required stop.  The view outside the building wasn’t too shabby either.  It’s on the top of a hill, meaning one got a beautiful vista of the downtown and the mountains in the background.  The skies looked a bit threatening and so I hurried along to my next stop.

The view on my walk
As mentioned earlier, navigation in the city is easy owing to the numbering system in all 4 directions.  I had asked earlier on how they determine where “East” turns to “West” and “North” to “South”, and was told that the Temple is considered to be the center of the city and so all roads literally lead towards it.  This meant that as long as you had that in sight, you would probably find it difficult to get lost.  As I passed through the “Temple Gardens”, I noticed that there was a lot to see here and I thought about stopping by tomorrow morning.  The city was also hosting a “NBA playoff game” for their beloved “Utah Jazz” and as I passed by the arena, I saw a large crowd waiting to get inside.  Tonight would not be ideal to stay out too late.

Another "Escape Room"
I arrived at an outdoor multi-level mall and this always makes finding a place difficult.  Continuing on my travel tradition, I was going to an “Escape Room”, this time with a "pirate" theme.  As always, I was joined by a group who had come together, though this time I could feel that the vibe wasn’t as great as has been in other places.  The first mishap was when we were sent to a room to wait and didn’t know what to do.  So we opened some doors and then realized that the actor who was supposed to guide us wasn’t even there.  So we came out and went back in once they were ready.  After a brief introduction we were led into a dimly lit room which was supposed to be the pirates’ lair.  The lighting made it extremely difficult to solve the puzzles, which weren’t that easy – we had to use the same prop for two separate puzzles, which I felt wasn’t fair.  Plus our chemistry was off and it wasn’t a surprise that we failed miserably – my first failure after a moderately successful run of late.

A nightcap in 'Gibson Lounge'
I left immediately after the picture and headed to a cocktail place called ‘The Red Door’.  There wasn’t anyone there besides me and another couple, though it looked like a live music place that could get full at night.  I left after a drink and went a place beside it, called ‘Lake Effect’.  Now this was more like it.  The chairs were comfortable, the drinks splendid and the bartenders friendly.  My dinner stop was a place called ‘Pallet’, which was around the corner and known to be one of the “trendier” restaurants in the city.  It also shared a wall with one of those places which attracts youngsters who gather around and spend hours doing nothing, meaning it was a crowded sidewalk.  The dinner was good, and it was still relatively early when I returned back to my hotel.  The lobby bar was in full swing with some music and earlier in the day I had seen a nice place called ‘Gibson Lounge’.  It was a cozy bar with couches and I stopped for a nightcap before heading back to my room, where once again there were “macaroons” on my pillow.  Tomorrow would be an early morning, for I was headed to one of the more unique experiences of my travels.

One of the highlights of this trip:
"Music and the Spoken Word"
I got up early and after my final breakfast of “macaroons” on the terrace, checked out. I left my bag with the concierge and set off for ‘Temple Square’.  Right next to the actual Temple, is the ‘Tabernacle’, where for the past 87 years, every Sunday is a live program called “Music and the Spoken Word”.  Broadcast worldwide, this combination of classical music and an inspiring prose is the longest running uninterrupted network broadcast in the world.  And it’s open to anyone who wants to attend, provided you get there in time.  I arrived just as the choir was practicing and was led into a building which has been designed for great acoustics.  The choir was practicing and it was a magnificent sight.  The sound was great, especially with the organ and the orchestra, but what was even more impressive was the way everything was arranged, with men and women dressed in their Sunday best on either side of the organ.  Just before 9:30 am they came and introduced some of the dignitaries from all over the world, including some high ranking politicians.  Then they gave us instructions on being silent since this is a live broadcast.  For the next 30 minutes we were treated to a performance that was memorable, not just because of the music and the singing, but also the message that accompanied it.  At the end of the broadcast they asked us to stay since they had to re-record one of the songs, and no one seemed to mind.  I was glad to have been here this Sunday morning, to be a part of this historic occasion.  And it seemed like the right place to be for me.  Life will lead you to disappointments…and more than once.  But then there are occasions like this, where out of nowhere you realize that there are small miracles to be discovered every day.  Back after my 26th visit I did a list of categories such as my favorite food, city etc.  If there ever was a category of the one thing that I am the most privileged to have attended, this would be it.

The "Temple Gardens" 
There are 2 “Visitor’s Center’s” here, each having its own museum.  I went into the “South” one and was greeted by a young woman who introduced herself as a “Sister” and mentioned that she was a missionary.  Soft spoken and polite, she told me about the place and the encouraged me attend a walking tour of the site, which would start in a few minutes.  She was one of the kindest people that I have met and I thought that they were lucky to have her as a missionary.  Very soon I would realize that she wasn’t the only one.  The museum in here told the story of Brigham Young and his follower’s settling in Salt Lake City and their long ordeal in building the magnificent Temple outside, something that took 40 years to accomplish.  I walked about the exhibits for a bit and then went outside to the meeting spot for the tour.

The model of the Temple
Two other young women introduced themselves as missionaries, who would be giving the group a tour.  One of them was from Brazil and they both had similar personalities to the young lady I had met inside.  As we walked about the garden and the exterior of the temple, they told us about how they came to be missionaries and the sacrifices they are expected to make for a couple of years.  Considering how young they are, it is asking a lot from them and no wonder it takes a certain kind of character to be a missionary.  Being outside of the “Mormon” faith, we were not allowed inside the temple, but were able to see a model of the same, and the interior is fantastic.  It had been an informative tour and I was glad that I had stayed for it.

The 'Beehive House'
A few blocks away from was ‘Beehive House’, the residence of Brigham Young.  I went in and met 2 other young ladies who asked if I would like a tour.  I said yes and soon we were joined by another family, as they took us through the house and told us stories from Brigham Young’s life.  They also told us how they came to be missionaries and once again, I could not have asked for nicer people.  After the tour I returned back to ‘Temple Square’ and visited the museum in the other “Visitor’s Center”.  It was getting well past noon and I had just enough time for lunch before leaving for the airport.  I returned back to the mall which I had visited yesterday for my “Escape Room”.  It looked deserted, barring one place which served a ticketed “Gospel Brunch” which was sold out.  Looking at the amount of securing present outside, you would think that some Royalty was dining inside!  I asked directions for a pub that I had seen on the map and after getting lost across multiple levels for over 15 minutes, I finally found the place.  After a quick bite, I was ready to close out this trip. 

It had been an illuminating visit
I walked back to my hotel to collect my bag and called an ‘Uber’ for the airport.  This had been one of the more beautiful cities that I had visited.  But that is not what’s going to make this trip memorable for me.  Unquestionably it’s the people that I met, especially this morning.  Seeing those youngsters and the way they treat others was inspirational.  People much older than them have less regard for loyalty and relationships, mainly because they are programmed to be “takers”.  But then you meet someone like these missionaries who are an embodiment of unconditional kindness.  And I promised myself that from now onward, whenever I think I am being wronged, I will think about them and feel hope in humanity.


31. Kansas

Month: April 2017
Location: Wichita

It was the “Easter Weekend”, and since I have no family related activities, it was the perfect time for me to get away.  I picked Kansas, though I was struggling, since the city that bears the State’s name actually resides in Missouri….for most parts.  I debated going to Kansas City and staying on the Kansas side, so as to be able to visit the attractions on the Missouri side of the river.  But that felt wrong and the one thing that I had decided before starting this journey was that I would not do this just to “check a box”.  I really do want to explore this land and if that took me to places that are not that well known, then so be it.  So I decided to go to Wichita, Kansas.  People often wonder why I am visiting these places and Kansas was no exeption. But hey, if it was good enough for Dorothy, then it was fine with me!

Welcome indeed
I had landed in Wichita once before.  Many years ago I was on my way to Dallas when the pilot announced that we had run out of fuel and so had to make a quick stop in Wichita.  Yeah, that really happened.  But all that I had seen was the tarmac as we took on the fuel.  The first thing that struck me when I entered the terminal this time was how clean it was.  While by no means a busy airport, it is spotless and immaculately maintained.  As I took a cab into the city, the first thing that the driver said to me was, “You must have something really important to do in Wichita this weekend”.  Well, it wasn't the first time that I have heard something similar during my travels to small towns.  He was however a nice chap and we talked about his family and how he was trying to convince his college bound daughter to buy a more reliable car rather than a flashier one.

Waiting room at the 'Do Dah Diner'
I dropped off my bag and as is my custom, set out to find some brunch.  It was a nice day and I walked through mostly empty streets to a place called ‘Do Dah Diner’.  There was a short wait, which is always a good sign that the locals approve. It did look like a typical diner, with a waiting room that displayed souvenirs such as coffee mugs and t-shirts.  However, what I found most interesting was that amongst these typical items found in a diner, there was also a showcase selling specialized herbal beauty and healthcare products.  Well, I guess they do cater to all sorts of clientele!  I got a seat at the counter, right next to the kitchen, meaning that I could see all of the goodies that were coming out.  The food was as good as I had expected and I was ready to begin.

Downtown Artwork
The hotel had given me a map with all of the attractions and I went to the one nearest to me…which turned out to be a “Hunting store”…with lot of guns.  Well, far from me to comment on the quality of that merchandise and so I went to the next building which was called ‘Kansas Sports Hall Of Fame’.  It wasn’t much, being a single room full of names and memorabilia from all the famous college and professional athletes to have either come from Kansas, or gone to school in the State.  It didn’t take me long to walk through it, after which I proceeded towards the main downtown area. The broad sidewalks were empty, though they had fun bronze sculptures of kids playing or small animals etc.  Some of them tell a story and it was a nice addition to lend character to a place.  I also saw a small park with some “Pop-up Food Trucks” and if I hadn’t been full from my brunch, I would have definitely stopped at the “Cupcake” station which advertised all sorts of flavors.

The magnificient 'Wichita-Sedgwick
County Historical Museum'
My next destination was a place called ‘Wichita-Sedgwick County Historical Museum’ and from outside it looked like a charming building made of stone and with spires as on a manor.  The inside was equally beautiful and the lady at the ticket window advised me to start on the top floor and work my way down.  The museum told stories about Wichita and how important this city has been over time.  For example, I had not known about its significance in Aviation or the fact that the “Chisolm Trail” passed through here, where all the cattle from Texas were herded northwards.  There were rooms that recreated some houses from the past as well as well as other businesses.  It was a nice way to learn more about this place and its culture.

A cafe inside a bus
As I walked towards my next destination, I saw that in the park was now a “Double-decker” bus that had been converted into a “Pop-up café”.  After seeing it, I wonder why no one else had thought of doing a similar thing elsewhere.  I was going to the “Old Town” section of Wichita and with its brick and cobblestone streets; I knew that I would like it.  I was looking for a place called ‘Museum of World Treasures’, and it turned out to be one of the most interesting museums that I have seen in terms of its diversity.  I started on the first floor, and it looked like a typical “Natural History” museum for kids, with “Egyptian Tombs and Mummies” as well as large scale Dinosaurs.  Then I went to the second floor which had rooms and areas dedicated to all of the wars that the US has fought, starting from the “Revolutionary War”, to the “Civil War” and the two “World Wars” and finally “Korean War” and the “Vietnam War”.  As I walked through the sections, I found them to be a fascinating read and look into the history, especially the section on “WWII” which was a detailed chronology of the events, right from the end of “WWI”, and included a year by year account of what was happening in Europe as well as on the Pacific front.

It wasn't just a museum for Children
However, the reason I call this museum interesting, is because most of the material was not age-appropriate, going into gory details of holocaust and genocide that was committed during these wars.  And I mean stories in graphic details, photographs and statistics.  So while the first floor had made me think that this was a museum for children, by no means was this something that they should see.  Now, I am all for teaching kids about some of the atrocities from our history so that they learn from the mistakes of our past, but this may be a little too much for someone who is coming here to see a Dinosaur made out of plaster.  However, I felt that my time had been well spent and I particularly enjoyed a section which chronologically took visitors through the history and stories of all the Presidents of  the US, starting with George Washington, right up to Trump.  Plus, there was a piece of paper containing handwriting from each of them, ranging from a note to their signature.  Now that is something that the kids should see.
'Old Town'

I had not expected that I would spend so much time here, but I was glad that I had done so.  The evening was upon us and that meant that my next set of activities were ready to commence, starting with a nearby place called ‘Mort’s Cigar and Martini Bar’.  Now, there weren’t many people on the streets, but this place was buzzing for sure.  While it was clear from the title that this place was known for its Martini’s, I wasn’t expecting to find as many types as I did on the menu.  The one thing that did have me concerned was the word “Cigar”, since the last thing I needed was to be sitting around smokers.  Fortunately I did not see any indication of that and after a well-made drink called “007 Martini” – why not – I moved to my next destination.

I was the only customer in 'Revolution Lounge'
If I was to live in Wichita, I would do so in “Old Town”, with all of its restaurants, bars and boutique shops.  I went to a place called ‘Wheat State Distilling’, which was – as the name would suggest – a distillery.  I asked about their products and seeing my curiosity, was presented with 7 samples to taste.  Yep, it was going to be that kind of evening.  While the earlier place was more lively and enclosed, this one was more relaxed and wide, and I liked it a lot.  I was waiting for 7 pm because that’s when the next place on my list, called ‘Revolution Lounge’ was opening, and I was literally at the door when the proprietor opened it from the inside, perhaps surprising him to no end.  The interior resembled a hybrid between a Sports Bar with games and a night club and something told me that were I to come back at midnight, I would encounter “Strobe lights” and a fog machine.  I was the only person in there and the bartender told me that I should indeed come back later on in the night when there wouldn’t be an inch of free space.  In any case, he made me a drink called “Go F*** Yourself”, because that name he assured me was appropriate for people ordering after midnight.

My kind of cocktail lounge
My final stop prior to dinner was in a place called ‘Docum’, reputed to be the top spot for cocktails in Wichita.  It was below the restaurant I was going to later and so was very convenient.  As soon as I had entered it, I knew it was my kind of place.  It was dark and elegant and would give any top-notch cocktail lounge in Chicago a run for its money.  In fact, they take their ambience so seriously that they requested that I turn off the flashlight on my phone when I couldn’t read the menu.  One of the great pleasures of my travels is making friends with people in places like these and this was no exception.  I met an older couple who was on their way back to Des Moines Iowa, from their winter home in Scottsdale and I told them about my travels and how I was intending to come to Iowa next year.  The lady, whose name was Debbie, told me that I had to look them up when there and since she visits Chicago for work, I said the same to her.  It was really fun meeting them and another reason why I think people should travel more.  I went upstairs to a restaurant called ‘Siena Tuscan’, and it was as good as its reputation.  After dinner though the option to go back to ‘Revolution Lounge’ was tempting, it had been a long day and I was ready for bed.

Who doesn't love trains...
The next morning was pleasant as I walked back towards “Old Town”.  My first stop was a place called “Espresso To Go Go”, which was a cute coffee shop run by a husband and wife duo.  I sat at a window for a bit and then moved on to the place next door, ‘Great Plain’s Transportation Museum’.  This is a museum dedicated to trains, and not miniature models, but full sized locomotives and carriages.  Wichita, being in the center of the country was ideally situated for trains transporting good from coast to coast and north to south.  Visitors could walk through some of the huge locomotive engines and some of the commercial cars – none were for passengers – and I spent the next 30 minutes exploring.   Before leaving I talked with the staff members and told them about the museum I had visited in Baltimore and we also discussed the good old days of train travel.

...or a street market
As I walked through the streets of “Old Town”, I came across a variety store that one typically finds in small towns – the store where you can find almost any old antique or such item in a corner.  I saw what looked like a “stuffed cat” and upon closer inspection found it to be a real one.  She was the store mascot and her owners said that I should pet her, which I did to her immense pleasure.  In fact, when I stopped she was “meowing” her displeasure and though I could have done it all day, I had other things to do.  I came across a “Saturday market” in the lot outside the ‘Museum of World Treasures’, with local farmers and shop keepers selling fresh produce, food and other products.  I walked through it and continued my exploration, soon finding a beautiful “town square” lined up with restaurants and shops, and with a cinema hall at one end.  If I was to live in Wichita, this would be the location.

Love the art musuem
Last night I had seen a restaurant called ‘Eggcetra’, and I stopped there for some brunch – no surprises given the name.  I called an ‘Uber’ to go to my next destination which was ‘Wichita Art Museum’, and was picked up by a guy driving a “Dodge Charger”.  When I commented on the car, he gave me a history of his “Muscle Cars” and told me about the next one that he was planning on getting; in fact, he made me watch a 5 minute video of the same when we arrived at the museum!  The art museum was quite good and had two main exhibits; “The Poetry of Nature: Hudson River School Landscapes” and “Storytelling”.  I love landscapes and with a title called “Poetry of Nature”, I was hooked.  The museum had two main floors and after visiting both of them, I was off to my next stop which was less than a mile away.

The streets of 'Old Cowtown Museum'
I walked over to ‘The Old Cowtown Museum’ which is, well an old “Cowboy Town” from mid-19th century.  And we are not talking about a couple of buildings.  This is a full-fledged town spanning several buildings over many blocks.  A I collected my map from the “gift shop”, I saw that it would take me some time if I wanted to visit all of the buildings.  The lady told me that around 3 pm there was going to be a “gun battle” outside the saloon.  Say what!  I started exploring the town, visiting the buildings which ranged from residences to workshops and barns to commercial properties such as a grocery store.  Then I turned on what seemed to have been the town’s main street and saw a large group of people assembled for the showdown.

"High Noon" on the main street
We were asked to assemble on one side of the street while people dressed in period costumes came over to give us safety instructions.  They showed us that while the bullets were made of rubber, at close quarters they could do some serious damage, as was evident by them firing at a soda can which was obliterated.  The storyline for the show was some dimwitted bank robbers who come into town, rob a bank and are taken down by the women, with almost everyone in the show ending up “dead”.  While it wasn’t quite Gary Cooper and “High Noon”, it was fun.  I continued visiting the other buildings and there were a lot of them. It was interesting to see something from over a 150 year’s come alive in front of you through these businesses.

Another room, another escape!
I took a ride back to town and since I had some time before my next activity, stopped at a bar called ‘Barleycorn’ and while I was the only person there at that time, I learnt that this was one of the more popular places for Live music and gets full at night.  My next activity for the evening was something that I have done a lot during my travels, play an “Escape Room” game.  It wasn’t too far from where I was, though like other’s it was in sparsely inhabited, more “industrial” looking space.  I arrived there to find that I was to be paired with 3 other couples and they were a friendly lot.  The storyline for this game involved a serial killer and within the room were several gory scenes and props.  However, we worked well as a team and managed to escape with some time left on the clock.  This continued my successful trend for the past few attempts and as always, I had a great time with my team.

The movie theatre in the 'Old Town'
I had enjoyed my time at ‘Wheat State Distilling’ last night and since I was in the neighborhood, I went back there.  I also wanted to visit the bar at ‘Hotel at Old Town’, especially since they had a jazz musician playing tonight.  But as soon as I stepped inside, the place and vibe reminded me of some of the Senior Centers that I had volunteered at and so I beat a hasty retreat!  Earlier today, while exploring the place I had come across a place called ‘Sabor Latin Grill’ and I stopped there for a bit before ending my night at ‘River City Brewery’.  It wasn’t that late, but it was time for me to call it a night.  I called an ‘Uber’ and the driver was listening to some “Classic Rock” which led to a discussion between us on our favorite bands and we ended up talking about ‘Pink Floyd’ in my hotel’s foyer for 15 minutes.  If nothing else, this trip had introduced me to some fantastic ‘Uber’ drivers.

'The Keeper of the Plains'
The next morning was overcast; though sitting outside on the hotel patio overlooking the river was too good of an opportunity to pass.  I then set off along the “Riverwalk” headed towards one of Wichita’s most famous landmarks, ‘The Keeper of the Plains’.  Built at the confluence of two of Wichita’s rivers, this is a 44 ft. “Native American” statue that celebrates the art and culture of local tribes.  The area around the sculpture has been developed like a mini garden and during summer months, on weekends, something known as “ring of fire” burns around the statue.  No wonder this is known as one of the “8 Wonders of Kansas”.

Nearby was Wichita’s “Science Center”, called ‘Exploration Place’.  I have tried to visit similar museums wherever I have travelled, and this was no exception.  I was one of the first to arrive as soon as it opened for the morning and it was quite small, meaning that I was done very soon.  It did however have some good exhibits, one where kids could “design” their own planes – once again paying homage to Wichita’s aviation history – and had a splendid model train set.  In fact, it was so well done that I spent a lot of time in that room, following the various path’s the trains took and admiring the detailed scenery that had been created.  I had also got a ticket for an “Omnimax” show and after that, I was ready for my final meal in the city.

The model train at 'Exploration Place'
I was going to a place called ‘Newport Grill’, which was away from downtown, though it was known for its "Sunday brunch".  So it hadn’t been easy getting a reservation and with my ‘Uber’ driver getting lost, I arrived just in time.  The restaurant was located in an open mall with a small pond in the back that made for a beautiful setting.  There were a lot of well-dressed families out for their “Easter brunch” who eyed me suspiciously, being by myself on this day.  But I enjoyed the food and then since I had some time, walked around the mall, even stopping at the local ‘Barnes & Noble’, which is always a great way to pass the time. 

It really is a pretty town
I called an ‘Uber’ to take me back to the hotel and was picked up by a gentleman who told me that Wichita was one of the best places to live and a well-kept secret.  Based on the last couple of days, I couldn’t disagree.  He mentioned how the economy was doing well and about the cultural activities that happen in the city.  In fact, the place were, hosts outdoor concerts during summer, which are attended by thousands.  I picked up my bag and took the shuttle to the airport.  It had been a good visit, where I had met a lot of really nice people.  Dorothy had learned a lesson about home and family, and had been glad to return back to her farm in Kansas.  While I was going back to my city, there is no denying that Kansas has it beat when it comes to being called someone’s home.


30. South Carolina

Month: March 2017
Location: Charleston

While it would my 30th visit, the genesis of this actually began almost 10 months and 800 miles away.  I was on my usual visit to Manhattan over the “Memorial Day Weekend” and I decided to do something that I had never done before.  I went on a guided "Walking Tour" of the city.  Now, walking in Manhattan is something that I had done for over a decade, but it would be interesting to see it from someone else’s point of view.  So I booked myself on a 6 hour tour and as I arrived early in the morning at our meeting location, I was promptly mistaken by a family to be the guide.  As we cleared the misunderstanding, very soon I became friendly with the family, who was visiting from Florida. They were comprised of Lisa, her husband Lloyd, daughter Maria, son Dustin and Lisa, his girlfriend.  Lisa, the mom, was interested in my travels and so we exchanged numbers and decided to stay in touch.  Over the next several months, as Lisa followed my blog, she mentioned that it would be fun to go somewhere together and we instantly decided that we should visit Charleston over Spring.  We picked a weekend and went ahead and made our reservations, booking a house that we could share.  Over Fall and Winter, I continued travelling through other states and then before I knew it, March was upon us.

Our home for this trip
I arrived at Charleston airport on Thursday afternoon and saw all of them – except Maria who couldn’t make it – waiting for me with a sign.  They had driven from Florida and so we all got into their "SUV" and headed off to find our lodgings, which were in a residential neighborhood.  We followed directions, which took us through the back streets and through a narrow entryway, into the backyard of a cute house.  The car was full of food and beer, so much so that it looked like we were going camping in the wilderness.  But I wasn’t complaining since that meant that we would have a good time.  The house itself was very cozy with 3 bedrooms and I took over one with twin beds.  We unpacked and then assembled in the living room to plan our evening.

The fantastic 'Husk'
We had made reservations in one of Charleston’s premiere restaurants named ‘Husk’ and decided that rather that get too adventurous, we should just proceed there early and grab a drink at the bar.  We called an ‘Uber’ and our first ride into the downtown showcased the beauty for which Charleston is known.  ‘Husk’ is located in a beautiful house and the bar was located at the back, in an equally beautiful area spread over 2 floors.  After a cocktail there, we were guided to a charming dining room which had a balcony overlooking the courtyard with a tree.  The food itself was as good as we had hoped it would be and if this was what the next few days were going to be like, it would be a fantastic weekend.  All of the desserts looked delicious and being in a big group meant that we could order the entire lot.  After that, all that was remaining was to return back to our house…but not before encountering one of the most flamboyant ‘Uber’ drivers, who would have been right at home in the haze induced 60s.

The courtyard at 'Eli's Table'
The next morning we got ready and headed out for brunch to a place which had been recommended by our ‘Uber’ driver last night, and was called ‘Eli’s Table'. In fact, I had made reservations while we were in the car.  We were guided to a table in the backyard and it was the perfect setting for a brunch.  Once again, the meal was outstanding, and I was beginning to see why Charleston is considered to be the best in the land when it comes to cuisine.  Our server was a young man who knew his way around   town and gave us pointers on places to visit – mostly bars – and things to get while there, even saying that we may probably run into him.  The brunch had been substantial but now it was time for our activity for the morning, which was a “Walking Tour” and considering that we had met on one such tour, it only seemed appropriate.

The multicolored tree
As we walked towards our meeting point, in the light of day the architecture looked even more amazing and made us look forward to our tour.  We met our guide, a distinguished looking lady, and our fellow tourists, a group from Atlanta via Massachusetts.  The lady had a pink flower, which is native to the area, and said that since I had come all the way from Chicago, I should have it.  I said that in this case I would be proud to display it during the tour and so wore it on my jacket.  Speaking of flowers, our very first stop was to see a tree which blooms with flowers every Spring for a very short time.  But what was unique about this tree was the fact that it bore flowers of two different colors on the same branch.  I had never seen anything like this before and luckily for us, we were visiting during the right time of the year.

The beautiful streets of Charleston
We proceeded to look at historical buildings such as churches and even walked through a graveyard, where our guide told us a story of how she had once walked into the place with a certain number of tourists and had walked out minus one!  Well, all of us were accounted for and we continued through the neighborhood and past some establishments such as a 150 year old Hotel – with its own ghost story – and past a Market.  But the main highlight of the tour was still ahead of us, the magnificent houses of Charleston; something that this city is known for.

Walking through what must have been one of the most expensive streets in the nation in terms of real estate, what I was struck by the most was not the gaudy opulence, but the simplicity.  There weren’t any golden tiles or intricate artwork on the walls, but just beautifully constructed houses.  Plus we could peek inside and see the immaculate gardens and in some cases, walked through narrow alleyways, which revealed even more treasures.  We had made our way to the waterfront, which has an elevated walkway next to it and a row of even more beautiful – and pricier – houses with a view.  Our guide was telling us about the stories of those places, as well as the “Waterfront Park” which had seen its share of “Pirates” from back in the 18th century.  Before going inland for the last part of our tour, we looked outward through the harbor and in the distance was the single most famous building of Charleston, ‘Fort Sumter National Monument’.

On the waterfront
We continued back towards the place we had started from, admiring more houses, some of which were brilliantly colored.  I have done some tours of houses and neighborhoods in the past but this one had been as good as any in terms of charm, history and elegance.  We were still quite full from our brunch, but wanted a breather before our next activity and so headed to a place called ‘Blind Tiger’ for some cocktails.  After that we headed to ‘Market Street’ which hosts the “Historic Charleston City Market”.  This is a street over a few blocks that are lined up on both sides with local shops and eateries. Running through the center of the street is a long, single-story building in which local vendors and artisans have set up shop.  It reminded me a lot of Boston’s “Quincy Market”, though without all the food.

This used to be a "Gas Station"
Our next activity was a “Culinary Walking Tour” and since their main office was nearby, we thought that we had plenty of time and so were taking it easy.  However, we realized that the meeting point was actually a couple of miles away and so we frantically ordered an ‘Uber’ and made it there right on time.  Our first stop was a restaurant called ‘HoM’ - or “House of Munch”, as it is known - and upon entering we saw that other visitors were already assembled, including the group with whom we had done the tour in the morning.  We had 3 tastings here – including a flatbread with “Pimento Cheese”, which was delicious - and then moved on to the next place.  It was a small place called ‘R Kitchen’ which hosts “pop-up” style dinners, albeit with the same staff but different menus.  After a couple of samplers here, we moved over across the street to a place called ‘Fuel’, which was essentially a restaurant inside a “Gas Station”.  While the food here was good, by this time we were feeling stuffed and so couldn’t do it justice.  But we did have room for a small cupcake at a final stop at a bakery and then since we were less than a mile away from our house, just walked home.

The "Escape Game"
I spent the next hour on the couch trying to recover from the drowsiness and lethargy that all the food had brought on and I saw that I wasn’t the only one who had been affected.  However we did have one final thing to do this evening and that was play an “Escape Game”.  Now, I have done this a lot during all of my travels, but never with my own team.  I have always joined other groups and while each of them had made me feel welcome, I was still an outsider.  So I had told Lisa that I wanted to do this during our visit here and they were on board.  So, for the first time after dozens of these rooms, I arrived with my squad for an attempt at “Prison Break”.  We were joined by another couple and then for the next 60 minutes, the 7 of us worked together and managed to escape.  It had been a lot of fun and I knew that as exciting as these rooms are to play, it is truly memorable when you do so with your own team.

An evening on the porch
There was no way that I was going to have a full meal after all the food that I had imbibed, but that did not stop me from getting my favorite “Belgium Chocolate” cone at ‘Häagen Dazs’, which was located right next to the game.  We went back to our place and it was a nice night to be sitting outside on the porch.  So Lisa made us a “cheese plate” and some dips and along with some beer and popcorn that I had gotten from Chicago, we had ourselves a great time, just chatting.  I have had several great evening during my travels, most of them involving food and drink.  But relaxing with friends on a porch is now way up on the list.

'Magnolia Plantation'
We had a lot planned for this Saturday, starting with a visit to a plantation, which was a few miles outside of downtown.  But before that, we decided to get the breakfast of champions by stopping over at a place called ‘Glazed’ and getting ourselves an assortment of donuts.  The locals were already lining up and clearly this was a place to be.  With our sugar levels properly adjusted, we headed over to ‘Magnolia Plantation’.  The entrance resembles a “Countryside Estate” and as we drove up the pathway towards the house, we passed immaculately maintained gardens lined by an avenue of trees.  As beautiful as this was, on the side, clearly visible as a scar, were the shacks that had been the “Slave Quarters”.

The horrible part of the plantation - "Slave Quarters"
Our tour started with a short presentation over there and just walking through those shacks was suffocating; forget living there with dozens of others, all of them crammed like sardines.  We were then taken for a tour of the house, which in stark contrast had all of the opulence and elegance.  We were told on numerous occasions that this had been a site for filming of several movies, most famous being “The Notebook”.  Now, I have never seen it but several of the ladies obviously had and I noticed that none of the men owned up to it.  After the house tour we went for another demonstration on “Gullah Culture”, which told the visitors the story of the people who were brought to these lands as slaves and their life during that era.  The lady also touched upon their culture and food and how that has influenced the people and communities of today.  Yes, slavery was and always will be an atrocious part of our history and I have heard people say that they would never visit South Carolina, let alone a plantation.  But we cannot ignore what has happened and need to learn from it.  Coming to a place like this is the only way to confront our ugly past and heal as a community.

Approaching 'Fort Sumter National Monument'
There was a trolley tour that took us around the plantation grounds, which are now used for multiple things such as “Halloween Tours”, “Strawberry Picking” and other farming activities.  It was cold and I for one was glad when we concluded the tour since the trolley wasn’t completely enclosed.  While waiting for the trolley I had booked for us an excursion to ‘Fort Sumter’ and so we headed towards the waterfront.  We collected our tickets and had less than an hour to grab some food, which we did at a flamboyantly titled place called ‘Ted’s Butcherblock’!  We arrived back to see that there was a long line to board the ferry for our 30 minute ride.  Also, the wind had picked up and I for one was hoping that there would be an indoors seating area.  There was one and everyone made a beeline towards it, meaning that soon there wasn’t any place left to sit.  So I went outside and while it was cold, it wasn’t unbearable. Plus, there was something special about watching the island approach, knowing all the battles that had taken place over there during the war.

Inside the fort
The fort itself is now almost non-existent, though the remnants of the fortifications remain, along with the old cannons.  There is a small museum which tells the story of the pivotal role that this place played during the “Civil War”, right from the first shot being fired, all the way to its defense and eventual surrender.  There were also stories of its role during the “Revolutionary War” and it truly was amazing to be standing on the site of one of our Nation’s iconic landmarks.  There was a group that looked like they were going to a High School prom – though this place would certainly be an interesting choice!  We learnt that they were in fact a part of a travelling school band and were passing through Charleston.  The gift shop had memorabilia from the war, including “Union” and “Confederate” uniform caps and it was sad and funny to hear one of the girls point to the hat and tell her friend, “Oh, it comes in multiple colors”.  So much for the kids and history books!

The incredible "Chocolate Pudding"
We took the ferry back to the mainland - though this time I stayed inside - and then after driving through some charming neighborhood, returned back to our place.  It was our last night and we wanted to go out and have some fun.  We called an ‘Uber’ and went to a place called ‘Proof’, which was listed as the top bar for cocktails.  Both, the ambience, as well as the drinks were great and a good choice to start the evening.  From there we proceeded to another restaurant that was known for its food – ‘Hominy Grill’ and what a dinner it turned out to be!  When people talk about food in Charleston, they aren't kidding.  Of all the cities that I have been to so far, this may end up being on top of my list as far as food is concerned.  I was full, but just had to get their “Chocolate Pudding” which I can honestly eat every day of my life.  I refused to waste any of it and took the leftovers to go, no idea when I would be eating it.  We weren’t done yet and stopped for a nightcap at ‘Little Jack’s Tavern’, which was around the corner from our house.  It was a typical neighborhood bar and a nice end to the evening.

'USS Yorktown'
Next morning dawned grey and chilly, but we had one more activity left to do before our departure.  After my breakfast of the leftover pudding, we packed up our car – everything that had come out had to go back in – and left for brunch at a place called ‘Paige’s Okra Grill’.  Upon arrival we were told that there was a wait of over an hour and so we decided to come back here later in the morning.  We were headed to ‘Patriots Point’ to see ‘USS Yorktown’, an aircraft carrier from “WWII”.  It was windy and really cold as we walked over to the ship and even inside we could feel the cold draft.  As with any other aircraft carrier this was huge and there were a few self-guided tours that one could take through the ships interior.  We went down to the lower decks and followed a path through the vast labyrinth which took us to different parts of the ship, from the “Crew Quarters”, to the “Galley” to the “Dining Room”, to the “Medical Section”.  There were other exhibits along the way that told the story and history of the ship and to explore everything in detail would have taken us hours.  There were 5 different tours, including one which took us all the way up top to the “Tactical” and “Navigation” sections and by this time we were cold, tired and hungry.  So we decided to forgo the rest of the ship as well as the Submarine and headed back for brunch.

My squad for this trip!
There wasn’t as much crowd at ‘Paige’s Okra Grill’ as this morning, but it was still buzzing.  Considering it was our last meal in Charleston, we went all out and ordered the works, deciding to have our brunch “family style”.  Then we went to the “Bloody Mary Bar”.  Now, typically you have a few hot sauces and other garnishes like cheese and pickles that people add to their drink and call it a day.  Oh no, not this one.  This one had a full buffet that you could mount on your glass…a very long buffet.  There was every food item - savory and sweet - that one could imagine being on a breakfast or lunch menu and you were allowed to use it like a garnish.  By the end our glasses resembled gigantic towers and how we managed to get them back without toppling over is a mystery that Physics cannot answer.  And there was more food waiting for us.  If my every last meal in a city were to be like this, I would be extremely happy…and obese. 

It was time to head home, but had just enough time to go back downtown for some last minute souvenir shopping at the Market that we had visited on Friday.  Then it was onwards to the airport to drop me off.  As we said our goodbyes, I thought that it had been one of my best trips.  My last several visits had followed a pattern of me coming to a city, going to the main tourist attractions and finding cool places to eat and drink.  Well, I had done that here, but the main difference was that I wasn’t alone.  This time I had friends with me and the fact that prior to this we had only met for a few brief hours meant very little, for we had enjoyed every single moment of this trip.  I often think about “what if’s” and if I hadn’t decided to do a that tour in New York all those months ago, I would have never met Lisa and her family and we would have never done this together.  But we had, and it ranks as one of the highlights of my travels.