10. Montana

Month: July 2015

Location: Whitefish & Glacier National Park

Time to get going

I am a city person, always being more comfortable in an urban jungle than the wild countryside.  But for the longest time there has been one place that I have wanted to visit, ‘Glacier National Park’ in Montana.  So I found myself waking at 2:45 am this July morning and taking the first flight out west to Kalispell, Montana.  The magnificence of the place was evident from the air with expanse of mountains spread out below me.  As can be expected from a small town, Kalispell is a very small airport and the car rental was a good few miles away.  But once I had collected the car, I was on my way to the town of Whitefish, which would serve as my base for this expedition.

As I drove through the beautiful landscape, I noticed the overcast conditions that were building up.  I arrived at my destination, a place called ‘Grouse Mountain Lodge’, which was as charming as something with “lodge” in its name would be.  I went over to the information table and encountered the least enthusiastic person that one can meet in this role.  However, she did provide me with a map to the park and the route to get there, which would be about 30 minutes of driving from my hotel to the entrance.  As I was walking to my room,I saw that there was a spa in the lodge and so I did the only thing that I could – book a massage for the next day!

The long and winding road was a bit treacherous

I had lunch at the restaurant in the lodge with one eye on the map of the park and another on the threatening skies. But I hadn’t come thousands of miles to stay in the room and so set off to the place I had come to visit.  The drive to the park is fantastic and it gets better as one approaches the "West Entrance".  I paid my entry fee, which was valid for a week, and drove to the first visitor center.  I chatted with the staff who told me about some of the trails and scenic spots.  With rain in the air, it was unlikely that I would be getting out for a walk, but what I would be doing was driving one of the most outstanding routes in the nation, the “Going To The Sun” road.  This road, which goes through the heart of the park, is 48 miles long and can be segmented in 3 parts.  The first part runs next to some fantastic locales, including a lake front where there were many areas for people to stop for pictures.  The last part leads out of the park and is pretty as well.  But what truly matters is the central section, which leads to the apex of the 'Continental Divide' which converges at a point called the ‘Logan Pass’. And that road is one of the most breathtaking places that I have ever seen in my life.

Rain or not, it was beautiful

There was a steady drizzle as I started up the mountain leading to the ‘Logan Pass’.  For the next hour I made my way up while passing some of the most gorgeous sights on this planet.  The rain and narrow road made it is bit treacherous, but I could care less.  And while it was raining, I would be damned if I was going to let it stop me from getting off for some pictures and well, just take in the view.  I reached the ‘Logan Pass’ visitor center and it was wet and chilly, meaning there was no way I was going to be doing any hiking.  I decided to come back the next day and now there was a decision facing me.  I could either go back the way I had come, which meant navigating the same treacherous conditions, or keep going on the road to the other side where I would exit the park.  Then I would have to drive the long road around the park which would take over 2 hours.

I exited the park and the weather had cleared, meaning I could breeze through the highway. While it was not as beautiful as the road inside, it was pretty nevertheless.  I passed the ‘East Gate’ as well as the sister lodge to my hotel, ‘Glacier Lodge’, and after a couple of hours found myself back in Whitefish.  The town has a charming area where all the restaurants, bars and shopping areas are located.  The rain had stopped, which was good since most of the parking spots were taken and I had to park a bit away.  I walked about a bit and saw that people had started filling up all the popular spots.  I went over to one of the places that had been recommended and after dinner, decided to come back to the room since it had been a long day of driving and an especially early one for me.

The next day was bright and clear

Next day I woke up to an incredibly sunny morning and looking outside my room window on the golf course, I saw some folks practicing their putting.  I went for my massage and after that went back to downtown and to a place called ‘Amazing Crepes’, because what kind of person would I be to not visit a place named as such!  I arrived at the park and right of the bat I knew that today would be different since there was a huge line of vehicles to get in.  I stopped at the visitors center and talked with a lady who told me to invest my hiking capital in getting to a place called ‘Hidden Lake’.  She also told me that my chances of finding parking up at ‘Logan Pass’ were next to nothing and so I should park at the base and then take a shuttle to the top.  I went to the pick-up spot and there were cars lined up end to end and it was not looking good in terms of finding parking. But then I saw this one free spot and rushed in to the chagrin of everyone behind me.

  

Straight from my dreams

On my way to the 'Hidden Lake'

I found the shuttle taking us to the top and besides me, there were a few other people, including a family who was only going part of the way since they were going to hike up to the top…and then hike back down!  I was content to enjoy the view, especially on this clear day as the shuttle made its way to the ‘Logan Pass’ visitors center.  I followed the signs to the start of the trail to the ‘Hidden Lake’ only to encounter one of the most surreal feelings on my life.  I could see the path in front of me which was winding its way up towards a pass around a mountain and I could swear that I had seen this in a dream before…many times.  It was spooky in the details that I remembered and as far as I knew, I had never seen a picture of this trail anywhere else.  I started hiking up and for part of the way; the path was made of wooden planks, like one would find on a patio. The breathtaking scenery around me made up for the tiring climb and it kept on getting better.  At one stage I turned around and the welcome center was a tiny spec in the distance.  The wooden planks had disappeared, the ground had leveled off and I was on top of the continental divide.

The visitor center was a long way behind

The overall hike to the lake is about 4 miles and includes a descent down the mountain that we had climbed and then some more.  However, about a mile and a half from the visitor center is the overlook from where one gets a magnificent view of the lake.  Considering that I had to catch a shuttle back, I had decided against hiking down to the lake, though I did travel a bit further than the observation point.  Many people were on their way down and I sat on a boulder taking in the once-in-a-lifetime view.  After some time I reluctantly got up and started on my way down, but not before picking up a rock as a souvenir from the top of the continental divide.  As I walked back, alongside me was a family of Mountain Goats, the native residents of this mountain.

The magnificent 'Hidden Lake'

Back at the visitor center, I took the shuttle back, but before getting in the car, I explored another path called ‘Trail of the Cedars’, an easy mile 1 loop which takes the hikers into the woods.  After that I drove back to Whitefish and went to the ‘Great Northern Brewing Company’ for some ‘Huckleberry Beer’ against the backdrop of the mountains.  It had been a long day and I came back to my hotel for dinner followed by an early night.  The next day dawned bright and beautiful, though it was also time for me to leave.  I went to another local favorite, ‘Loula’s’ for breakfast and then drove back to drop my car off and take the shuttle to the airport.  I had bought some ‘Huckleberry Jam’ as a present and the ‘TSA’ proceeded to confiscate that, saying that it was above the permissible limit for carry-on “liquids”.  First of all, I did not know that jam classified as a liquid, but seeing that the ‘TSA’ officer was more despondent that he had to do this to me, I let it pass  Plus, I could buy another one in the gift shop right past the security.  As I left Montana I reflected on the wonders that I had seen over the last couple of days.  I am not a poet, not by any means.  But I wish I was, since that’s the only way that I can describe the beauty of the place. I had not made it all the way to the shores of the 'Hidden Lake', but surely some day I will return. I must return.

9. Minnesota

Month: June 2015

Location: Minneapolis

It was the weekend after my birthday and I was headed to Minneapolis.  Just like St. Louis I would only be there for a night and like my visit there, I had no major plans…well except one.  I arrived at the airport and took a long walk to the train station.  Unlike St. Louis, I did buy a ticket, though the train didn’t quite make it to the downtown due to some construction and I had to take the bus for rest of the way.  After getting off at what I thought was the right stop, I walked the next few blocks to my hotel. 

The 'Minneapolis Institute of Art'

One thing common with all these travels is me looking for a place to have brunch as soon as I arrive, and this time it was a trendy place called ‘Heyday’.  After being truly welcomed to Minneapolis by a couple of cocktails, I asked the server for recommendations and was told to check out the ‘Minneapolis Institute of Art’, which was free for visitors.  It was a short walk to get there and I traversed through a neighborhood before arriving at a building with looked unmistakably like an art museum.  Over the course of the next couple of hours I walked through the impressive corridors of the museum, which is a combination of the old and the modern.  However, the thing which really got my attention was an exhibit which showcased photographs, one from every year of the last 100 years.

One of my favorite things to do is visit Cathedrals to light candles and there was one over here that I wanted to see.  I called for a cab to take me to ‘Basilica of Saint Mary’ and it looked beautiful from the outside.  It was equally pretty on the inside, though I was asked to leave since a wedding was in progress.  I started walking back towards the downtown, headed towards the ‘Nicollet Mall’ area.  Not only does this have shopping and dining options, it also has the famous Minneapolis ‘Skyway’ - A labyrinth of overhead walkway system that connects the entire downtown area.

The incredible sights of the 'Skyway'

I entered a mall and for next hour wandered a system of what seems like never-ending corridors that go through office buildings, hotels, shopping arcades, food courts and everything but someone’s living quarters.  Now, I have been in Chicago’s “Pedway” system.  But what these guys have done is commercialized this by incorporating all the business’ as a part of the walkway.  Being a Saturday, it wasn’t crowded, but I saw its potential and would love to see one of these in Chicago – and no, the ‘Pedway’ doesn’t count. 

After a bit of exploring, I took the walkway all the way to my hotel and prepared for my next destination – “Escape The Room Minneapolis”, a game I have played in multiple cities.  Over here it was called “Mr. Dupree’s Office”!  I arrived at the location and was given a “confidential” file to review.  The rest of my team arrived and unlike the youngsters from my previous game in NYC, these folks were middle-aged couples looking for an adventure.  We went inside and for the next one hour navigated a very complicated game and while we made some significant breakthroughs, fell short with the finish line in sight.  It looks like after starting 5-0, I had gone downhill, losing 3 in a row. 

My last stop for the day was at a restaurant called ‘La Belle Vie’, which is an immaculate place with the kind of décor and service that I like and appreciate.  After a long but satisfying meal, I settled in for the night and as is usually the case, the next morning started with me trying to figure out where to go for brunch.  After reading about the neighboring places I settled on something called ‘Newsroom’, which was decorated like a 20’s gangster spot meets sports bar.  I should have known something was amiss when I walked into an empty place.  I sat at the bar and ordered something which on examination looked completely stale.  When I pointed it out the barman and asked to return it, he hardly seemed surprised; which was a sad reflection on that place.  Typically I would have just bitten my lip and settled for something else there, but I decided to go try another place which was called ‘Hell’s Kitchen’, and no, this has nothing to do with Gordon Ramsey.  What it did have were people…lots of them; and an infectious vibe.  Amidst the live music I had a great brunch, including something called “Sausage Bread”.  Finally, someone figured it out! 

The ruins of the 'Flour Museum'

Minneapolis has a nice riverfront and I walked over to it and went down the bridge to the park area where several people and their dogs were either walking, running or riding a bike – the last activity done by people, not the dogs.  As I walked along the riverside, I passed a dam on my left and realized that it was my 3^rd visit to the ‘Mississippi River’ in 4 months, having seen it in Missouri and Louisiana in March and April respectively.  In fact I learned later on that this was the only dam on the ‘Mississippi’.  I started to cross what looked like an old stone bridge, but noticed on the right some ruins that had a sign called “Flour Mill Museum”.  I decided to investigate and walked down to the ruins which not have been out of place as remnants of Medieval Europe.  It was indeed a museum and I as I went inside, I learned that it was a museum dedicate to flour.  Talk about commercialization!

They had an interesting setup where all of us were put on a seating area inside a giant service elevator and were taken up and down 8 floors, as they told us the story about this mill, including the explosion and a fire that had resulted in the ruins that we see today.  Someone then decided to build a museum here and I am glad that they did, since it is brilliant.  I enjoyed some of the tidbits I learnt, such as the difference between various grains and flours, how the dam was built on the river, a brief video on history of Minneapolis and a visit to the top of the museum tower for a fantastic view of the 'Mississippi'. 

Inside the 'Mall of America'

I still had some time to spare before my flight and so went to visit what is undoubtedly the most famous place, just on the outskirts of the city, ‘The Mall of America’.  Now, this is not unlike any other mall, just big…very big.  In fact it’s so huge that there are giant sized amusement park rides at the heart of the mall.  I walked about, taking in the vastness of the place, before taking a train back to the airport.  I had been in Minneapolis for just a day and a half, but I had enjoyed my time here thoroughly.  I mean, it’s not everyday that I get to eat something called “Sausage Bread” and visit a museum celebrating that food group!

8. New York

Month: May 2015

Location: Manhattan

“He adored New York City. He idolized it all out of proportion.  Uh, no, make that: He-he... romanticized it all out of proportion.  He was too romantic about Manhattan as he was about everything else.”

So says the character of Woody Allen, ‘Isaac’   in one of the all-time great movies, ‘Manhattan’.  While not as obsessed as him, I too love New York – henceforth any reference to New York means New York City and by that I mean Manhattan.  One of my favorite things to do is go to NYC for ‘Memorial Day’ weekend and then cap the summer by re-visiting over the ‘Labor Day’ weekend.  This was the first of those visits.

Manhattan!

I landed at ‘LaGuardia’ airport in the morning and took a cab to my ‘Midtown Hotel’.  I dumped my luggage and then hopped on a train to my first destination, ‘Katz’s Delicatessen’, one of the premier deli’s in NYC, if not the country.  They have a strange system here, where as soon as you come in, you are given a numbered ticket.  Then, as you order, they write that on the ticket, which is also marked after you pay. After that, you are only allowed to leave when you hand-in your ticket.  I do not understand it, but it’s clear that you should hang on to your ticket for dear life.  After figuring out the system I joined the huge line and placed the order at the counter, which in itself was a task and a half.  Then it was getting a table, but after a few bumps I managed to find a community table that I shared with a family.  The food was definitely worth the wait and the navigation through the crowd.  Plus I had kept my ticket and so was able to exit successfully.

My next stop this afternoon was just a few blocks away, where I was playing “Escape The Room NY” game.  There are 5 rooms in the city and I had already “escaped” successfully from 3 of them, as I had in Nashville and Chicago.  For this trip I had signed up for the remaining 2 rooms and this afternoon I was attempting the first one.  I arrived at the location and I was early…way early.   They send me off to a nearby bar called ‘Schillers’, which is one of those charming places with black and white tiles.  After spending the next hour getting to know a couple of cocktails, I came back to the room in a happier frame of mind!  I got to know my teammates, who were young and when they heard about my experience, were looking at me for guidance.  We tried our best and worked well, but were beaten by the clock, just a couple of minutes away from escaping.  The room itself was called “The Theatre” and was a great layout for a game like this.

Twilight on the 'Highline'

After mentioning to the folks that I would be back, I set off to walk down ‘Bleeker Street’ to a place called ‘Bantam Bagels’, which I had seen on the show ‘Sharktank’  After a walk of 30 minutes or so I arrived to see that the place was closed.  Well, I just kept going on towards a place which I had never been to in all my visits, ‘The Highline’.  I had read about this on ‘Chicago Riverwalk Project’ website and was looking forward to the visit.  Essentially the ‘Highline’ was an elevated rail line that supplied the ‘Chelsea Market’.  After decommissioning, it was condemned to deterioration, till a group calling themselves “Friends of the Highline” came together to rescue it.  The rails stayed, but a walkway was built around it with gardens and now it was transformed into one of the prime location for real estate.  In fact, condos around this place are some of the most expensive in the neighborhood.  I joined the ‘Highline’ at its Southern point on ‘Gavenport’ street and as I went upstairs, I saw that there were a lot of people who had come out to enjoy the late afternoon sunshine.  As I walked the length of the ‘Highline’ - all the way to the 34^th street - I passed by artists, food stations, gardens and seats acting as viewing areas for people.  It was definitely a place that I was glad to have found.

After navigating through the crowd that is perpetually surrounding ‘Time Square’, I arrived at my hotel for a shower, before heading out for dinner at ‘Atera’, a restaurant I had heard a lot about.  I arrived almost 45 minutes early in order to wait at the bar, but since they do not have a lounge, I was directed to a nearby place called ‘B-Flat Bar’, which is underground, and one has to enter through a dimly lit stairway.  I had a cocktail and then went for my dinner, which comprised of 18 or 20 courses, served with impeccable style and service.  I say 18 or 20 because I had opted for a wine pairing and so lost track of what happened towards the end!

The sinful 'Frozen Hot Chocolate'

The next day dawned with me regretting my decision to go for the wine pairing, but I had to recover fast since I had plans.  I was on my way to the East side towards ‘Serendipity 3’.  All my Saturday’s in NYC follow a pattern and it starts with their famous ‘Frozen Hot Chocolate’.  I arrived before the opening at 11:30 am and there was already a line. In little less than an hour I was on my way, having had my share of the chocolate goodness. I set off for the long walk to my favorite place in NYC, ‘Cathedral of St. John’s The Divine’.  I crossed over to the West Side and then walked up the length of ‘Broadway’, from the ‘59^th Street’ to the ‘110^th’, stopping at some of my usual spots like a small park that’s hidden between buildings and ‘Westside Market’, which I just like for its organization.  I was in a hurry though, since I had a tour to get to.

The group had already gathered when I reached the cathedral and I joined them for a ‘Verticals Tour’ , which was essentially an expedition that would take us all the way to the ceiling…and beyond.  We huffed and puffed around the narrow spiral staircase to the first stop, which was the balcony overlooking the main floor of the cathedral.  I had been here previously and now we went even higher, to appreciate some of the “stained-glass windows”.  What was amazing that what appeared to be small figures as you looked from the base were actually life sized images when you got closer.  We continued climbing to over the ceiling that is visible from the inside, and then climbed beyond it to the roof, with incredible views of Manhattan.  Everything that goes up must come down and with the remains of my heart in my mouth, I came down and for the next 45 minutes or so I walked about the cathedral, sat down and also lighted some candles. 

One of my favorite locations in NYC: 'Central Park'

I left the cathedral and went down the ‘110^th street’ to the Northwest end of ‘Central Park’.  And then I was off.  After all these years I have formulated a path through the park, all the way down to the South side, but often find myself getting lost.  I walked past the ‘Onassis Reservoir’ and for the first time visited the ‘Belvedere Castle’ before ending up on the ‘Mall’. Finally, I emerged from the park after over 2 hours and headed to my hotel for freshening up.  For dinner I was going to a Japanese place called ‘Brushstroke’, which was a nice and pleasant affair.  One of my courses was a ‘Lobster Rice’ and they brought out a pot of the finished product to show me, before bringing out a small serving.  Then I learned that the entire pot was mine and so I found myself carrying leftovers.

Sunday morning started with a breakfast of ‘Lobster Rice’, well because that’s what I do!  I was headed back to the ‘Escape The Room’ game for trying the last of the rooms in NY, ‘The Apartment’.  Once again, I was grouped with a lot of youngsters and we worked well together.  I impressed them when I cracked an important clue and like a couple of days ago, we were seconds away from opening the door, failing at the last clue because none of us spoke ‘Spanish’.  I had failed on this trip to escape either of the rooms, but it had been excellent sessions.

Now that's a real pizza!

I walked up ‘Bleeker Street’ to ‘Bantam Bagel’ and not only were they open for business, but their bagel bites were just as good as advertised.  However, the main reason for me to go to ‘Bleeker Street’ was to get a slice at ‘Bleeker Street Pizza’.  Now let me be clear about something.  There is a constant debate on “New York vs Chicago Style Pizza”.  For me there is no discussion.  New York has pizza.  Chicago makes an egg-less quiche!  It was as great as I remembered it and the best $3 that I have spent in a long time.  It may be becoming more obvious that I am a creature of habit and what follows the pizza is a stop at the famous ‘Strand’ bookstore.  I had first visited this place several years ago and had been taken in with its layout, with aisles of stacked shelves and also books on floors.  Last year I had found a book hidden amongst some bigger ones and it was short stories on coincidences.  I bought that and then a week later had left it on a plane.  Later that year as I visited NY and ‘Strand’, on a hunch I looked in the same place and found a copy of the same book.  After all, it is about coincidences.

After spending some time here, I was next headed to one of the hidden treasures of NY, ‘Rice To Riches’, which celebrates this humble dessert and elevates it to gourmet status.  I got my usual guilty pleasure, which is the ‘Mascarpone & Cherries’ with a topping of ‘pound cake’.  I found a table and thoroughly enjoyed this concoction before proceeding to ‘Broadway’, and headed downtown.  I had some time to spare and so stopped over at a wonderful ‘Asian’ store that had all sorts of delights.  I picked up a few things and then continued down to my destination, which is one of the best museum, educational institutions and tribute that I have had the privilege of visiting - the ‘9/11 Museum’ built at ‘Ground Zero’.

The magnificent '9/11 Museum' 

The first time that I came here a year ago, I had spent time at the giant fountains that mark the locations of the fallen towers. Those by themselves are fantastic, but the real treasure lies beneath them…7 floors down.  That time I had not been able to get a ticket to go down, but had made up for it a few months later and was absolutely floored by what I had seen.  After going down the long escalator, one enters a lobby, which then leads down a spiral ramp, all the way to the very foundation of the two towers.  At the base, in the main gallery are various exhibits, including a Firetruck that was at the site of the collapse, a piece of the antenna from the ‘South Tower’ and the last pillar to be removed from the site as it became a symbol of hope during the cleanup.  The gallery itself is quite solemn but nothing prepares you for the room under the ‘North Tower’, which showcases a minute-by-minute account of what happened that day.  The entire recreation of that day is difficult to see, but a valuable resource for generations to come.  Under the ‘South Tower’ is a tribute to all of the fallen from that day with photographs and biographical histories.  As sat on a bench looking at the wall with Virgil’s quote, I was reminded of the how much many sacrificed that day, and the innocence that has been lost forever.

I took a train back to the hotel and that evening I was going to the best restaurant in the country, ‘Eleven Madison Park’.  I took a train to the famous ‘Flatiron building’ and walked across the park to the restaurant.  The service in this place is impeccable and I had a wonderful experience, even getting invited for a tour of their famous kitchen and being presented with an ‘ice globe’ that was made in front of me at a special table.  To me it still remains one of the best dining experiences out there.

Inside 'Chelsea market'

My last morning in NYC involved a 3 hour walking “Food Tour” of the famous ‘Chelsea Market’.  I had first visited this place last year and had been impressed by the layout and the variety of options available.  I arrived just before 9 am and was soon joined by our tour guide and other visitors.  For the next 3 hours we visited many eating places, tasted a lot of good food and even visited the ‘Highline’ once again.  Plus we learnt a lot about the history of this place and how it is now the headquarters for ‘Food Network’.  Well, even ‘MLB’ has an office here.  At noon the tour was over and I still had some time to spare.  I went to one of my favorite ‘Food Courts’ on ‘58^th Street’ and ‘5^th Avenue’ and had some wine before going back to the hotel and catching a cab to the airport.

It had been a wonderful trip.  I have been visiting NYC for a long time and every time I find some new delight.  This time it was the ‘Highline’.  Plus, I will never tire of my trip on the ‘Upper West Side’ to the cathedral and my trip down south through the park.  I love this city and I feel that I know it a bit now.  I think that ‘Isaac’ could well have been speaking for me.

"New York was his town, and it always would be."

-   Manhattan, 1979

7. Louisiana

Month: April 2015

Location: New Orleans & Gonzales

I was scheduled to attend a work related meeting in Gonzales, Louisiana and so combined that with a visit to New Orleans as a part of the program.  The meeting required us to be in Gonzales on Monday evening and so on Sunday morning I found myself on a flight headed to New Orleans.  As you approach from the air, the swamp surrounding the city is visible as far as the eye can see.  Somewhere in middle of that swamp is the town of Gonzales.  But that can wait.  First there was a day to be spent in the city of ‘Mardi Gras’.

The model of New Orleans downtown

I had been to New Orleans years ago with my buddies but that had literally been an overnight sprint.  Well, so was this but I had a chance to plan a couple of activities during my stay.  I took a cab to my hotel and as one approaches the downtown, passing by the ‘Superdome’, the historic architecture is evident.  The hotel itself was quite charming and in the center of the lobby was a scaled model of the entire downtown with the streets and buildings laid out.  As is my usual practice, I asked at the front desk where I should go for brunch and the quick answer was, ‘Ruby Slipper’.

After a customary wrong turn I arrived at the café which was typical of something that one would find in a European city – open spaces, high ceilings with fans and lots of natural light on tiles.  I ordered myself a good old fashioned southern breakfast topped off by a glass of ‘Bloody Mary’.  The barman was a friendly chap and as I was about to leave, uttered the words which I have waited for a long time to hear – “Do you want another one to go?”  As much as I would have liked to respect the local customs, I declined and set about to explore the city.  I walked down the historic ‘Canal Street’ down to the waterfront and there was some sort of music festival going on over there.  I walked about for a bit and then headed to my first destination, ‘St. Louis Cathedral’.

'Mardi Gras' in all its splendor

I went inside and while is nowhere close in splendor to ‘Cathedral Basilica’, which I had visited last month, it is a charming place nevertheless.  I lighted my candles just as they announced closing time, meaning that I had to leave soon.  I didn’t have to travel far, since right next door was a building that I found interesting – ‘Louisiana State Museum’.  I asked the attendant if they were closing soon and was told that I had about an hour.  The museum was just two floors but each had a distinct New Orleans theme.  The first floor was a look back at one of the darkest hours in the cities recent past, ‘Hurricane Katrina’.  The exhibit took the visitor through the days before the hurricane hit the city, leading up to the actual tragedy, followed by the aftermath.  But it wasn’t just that.  It was also a story of the triumph of human spirit and how the city recovered through this to rediscover its groove.  If the downstairs was a bit solemn, the upstairs was an absolute party, with an entire floor dedicated to the festival of ‘Mardi Gras’.  With elaborate costumes and other paraphernalia on display, the place is exactly what you expect New Orleans to be.  As much as I would have liked to have spent more time there, the museum was about to close and I had places to be.  Dark tales of ghosts and spirits awaited me.

One of the recommendations when it comes to doing activities in New Orleans is walking through the historic ‘French Quarter’.  And nothing says a walking tour like ‘5-in-1 Ghost Tour’ complete with “Voodoo”, “Witchcraft” and “Werewolves”.  Furthermore, when the said tour is at twilight, sign me up.  I was supposed to meet the group at a place called ‘Reverend Zombie’s Voodoo Shop’, well because, why not have that as a starting point for such a tour.  The shop – which is a famous landmark in the city - is unlike anything I have ever seen.  Every nook and corner of the place had interesting tidbits and items and I could have spent an entire day there and still stay interested.  But the one thing that caught my eye was a sign that said “Fortune Teller”.  I learned that there was a gentleman who reads palms and since I was in New Orleans and in a shop such as this one, I signed up for an appointment the next morning.

Only in New Orleans

I found my tour group and checked-in.  There was still some time to go and they asked if I would like to carry a beverage with me on the tour.  Once again, I love this city!  I went to an adjoining bar and ordered the most famous cocktail on ‘Bourbon Street’, a “Hurricane”.  The barman saw my tour sticker and said that I was entitled to a second free drink because they had an arrangement with the tour operator.  I said to him that I was by myself and so he asked if I wanted him to “make me a double”, words to which I found myself saying “Yes”.  And so he did, handing me the party cup and saying that I shouldn’t drink it too fast.  You know it’s a stiff drink when the guy making it tells you that.  Whatever his advice, I was done with that before the tour commenced.

For the next couple of hours we walked about the area and were all entertained with stories of haunted hotels, gruesome killings, demon dogs, cannibals and all things scary.  Plus I learned how “Voodoo” is akin to a religion and how there are actual “Vampire Societies” in existence.  After the tour was done, I walked back through the ‘French Quarter’ to get to my hotel but was stopping frequently to visit the chic boutiques and other shops that can be found on every corner.  This to me is the real treasure of this neighborhood rather than the bars.  For dinner I was on my way to a place called the ‘Grill Room at Windsor Court Hotel’, which was supposed to have a good “Chef’s Tasting Menu”.  The hotel itself is fantastic and looks steeped in luxury with grand exteriors, marble flooring and lush carpets.  The restaurant décor was perfect, with its lighting and the view of the courtyard below.  Plus it was raining outside, which is an ideal scenario in a setting like this.  The dinner went well and afterwards being back at the hotel, I reflected on a day well spent.

The famous 'Cafe Du Monde'

The next morning I was headed to the famous ‘Café Du Monde’ to have its famous coffee, though they are also known for their ‘Beignets’.  Now, while the rest of the world loves this concoction, the one time I had ‘Beignets’ during my previous visit, I had found them to be carriers for massive amounts of powdered sugar.  I waited in the long line to get a table and to the surprise of the server, just ordered a cup of coffee.  The café itself has a semi-outdoor open feel to it with tables that are lined up right next to each other.  Just as I finished my coffee, the heavens opened and for the next 30 minutes it was me dodging in an out of shops, most of which were quite interesting.  I had brunch reservations at a place called ’Court of Two Sisters’ and not just any brunch, but a New Orleans style buffet with jazz music in the background.  As I feasted on – amongst other things – creole seafood omelet, I watched a grandfather dance with a little toddler girl with the jazz musicians joyfully playing them on.  There was one last thing to do before meeting my colleagues for a trip to Gonzales.

I had made an appointment to have my fortune read at ‘Reverend Zombie’s Voodoo Shop’ and that’s where I was headed.  I came there and waited while the person who was going to be my “fortune teller” prepared himself.  Just earlier he had been outside chatting with the rest of the staff and perhaps this was just a way to enter into whatever spiritual plane he needs to go to.  I went inside and we started with a palm reading.  He was using a pen to draw lines on my palm and by the time he was done, my palm had more lines than an architectural design.  During my time there I learned that I was on my 9^th life and in at least 2 of my previous lives I had been a “public figure”. In fact, in my previous life I was “the man of the people”.  He then went on to say that there was some sort of “déjà vu” manifesting itself in my life and I should try some meditation and just “chillax”.  Oh and I also need to ask for my “soul-piece” back from someone. He then laid out the “Tarot cards” and I picked “The Hermit”, “10 of Cups inverted”, “6 of swords” and finally “The Devil”.  There was something about not caring about material possessions, meeting someone special and travelling.  Well, that and the “Devil” of course! 

On a Mississippi barge

With this, the vacation part of my trip was over and it was time to get to Gonzales.  I went back to the hotel to pick up my bag and take a cab to the airport.  One of my colleagues was already there with a car and he picked up along with one more person.  We then rode through the swamp for almost an hour to get to Gonzales, where the biggest attraction is the Outlet Mall.  I was here as a part of my Company’s “Cultural Advisory Board” and we were visiting our ‘River Operations’ office in Convent, which is another 30 minutes from Gonzales.  The next day, after a round of meetings, we got to ride in our boats on the Mississippi and go on our barges that transport coal and other commodities up river.  Before that was a session learning to wear the life jackets and also what to do if overboard, including a move where we put our hands around our throat as if chocking oneself!  It was a good day, as was the next one, not to mention the grand southern food we were served for lunch.  The day of our departure was a long car ride back to the New Orleans airport but it had been a great visit.  I had been in the city for a little over 24 hours but had managed to cover a lot of ground.  Onword to the next stop on the journey.

6. Missouri

Month: March 2015

Location: Saint Louis

There was a time when I had thought that I would end up in St. Louis prior to moving to Chicago.  Despite the proximity, I had never visited the city and so made it a destination for this month.  I was going to be in the city for just one night, arriving on Saturday morning and leaving Sunday evening, meaning that I should have planned everything in detail so as not to miss out.  I of course, did nothing.  All I knew was the name of the Hotel that I would be staying in.  I had seen online that there was a train that would take me from the airport to downtown and so the first order of business was to find the said train.  There were signs which took me from the terminal and through a parking garage to the train station…which was really a platform adjacent to the garage.  The first thing I did when I arrived there was to look for a ticket dispensing kiosk and since I didn’t locate one, assumed that one could buy a ticket on the train which had just arrived.  As soon as the train was underway, I read a sign that said “Valid Ticket required for boarding the train”.  Well then, 10 minutes in and I had already broken the law!

'The Gateway Arch'

I was nervous throughout the train ride, especially when some folks looking like officials got on board.  I mentioned to my fellow passengers that I was unaware of the fact that the machine was on the platform – apparently hidden behind a column – and I would just have to plead my case if someone caught me.  They sympathized saying that there were many who traveled without buying a ticket and wished me luck.  After living dangerously for 40 minutes, I arrived at my stop and literally raced out to the streets before anyone could approach me.  I set off in the direction of the hotel and it’s always interesting for me to come from the crowded streets of downtown Chicago to almost vacant downtown of another city.  My hotel was on the banks of the Mississippi, meaning the grand ‘Gateway Arch’ – the cornerstone of the city – came into to view soon.  It really is a fantastic monument and pictures and TV do not do it justice.

I checked in and my first question to the ‘Concierge’ was, “Where do I go to eat?”  The answer in this case was instantaneous – ‘Rooster Café’.  I walked over to the place and I could see why.  It was packed to the seams and after putting my name down for a table, I ordered myself one of the House specialties, a ‘Bloody Mary’.  After getting a table, the server recommended another drink – something ‘Sunrise’ or ‘Sunset’, but it came with ‘Sparkling Wine’ and in a brilliant color.  I also ordered a dish called the “Rooster Slinger” which had in it every good thing that makes brunch special.  I asked the server, whose name was Rachel, what I should do for the rest of the day and she recommended the ‘Botanical Gardens’.  But before that, there was one other place to go to, the magnificent ‘Cathedral Basilica’. 

The magnificent 'Cathedral Basilica' 

One of my favorite places in the world is New York’s ‘Cathedral of St. John’s the Divine’ and it is incredible.  ‘Cathedral Basilica’, while not as big as that one, is quite impressive in itself.  The time I spent in the Cathedral this afternoon was as expected, serene, and I left after lighting some candles and picking up souvenirs.  I took a cab to my next destination, which was ‘Missouri Botanical Garden’.  After getting a coffee in the Café, I entered the gardens and for the next couple of hours explored the place, walking alongside small ponds and waterfalls and at one place, navigating through a maze.  Being the 1^st week of spring, the garden wasn’t in its full bloom yet, but it was still a place worth visiting.  There was an ‘Orchid’ exhibit and I stopped to see that; remembering a photography assignment that I had done in a similar exhibit a lifetime ago.  I decided to take a break for an hour or so and made my way back to the hotel to recharge.

An evening on 'Washington Street'

In the early evening I came down to the lobby and once again, asked the ‘Concierge’ where I should go for the evening.  The recommendation was to go down ‘Washington Street’ – a few blocks away – as that was where the folks usually came out on Saturday evening.  My first stop was at a place called “Robust Wine Bar’, a nice and relaxed place.  I sat at the bar with a flight of ‘Sparkling Wine’ and 'Cheese Plate' and chatted with the gentleman over there about the city and the wine.  Then I set off down the street and past dozens of restaurants and bars along it, thinking about where to go next.  It was a lovely evening and I found myself getting charmed by the city.  I peeked inside a window and saw a good looking bar inside ‘Renaissance Hotel’ and so went in for a cocktail.  I looked around me and saw an interesting sight.  Dozens of people were dressed like they had stepped out of Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’ video.  Either there was some sort of ‘Zombie/Horror’ convention in town or I was severely under dressed!  

Even better at night

After that I went over to another wine bar called ‘Copia’ for dinner and a fishbowl sized cocktail, after which I was ready for the hotel.  The walk back was lovely, since in the background was the ‘Arch’, beautifully lit and always the dominating presence.  I saw people riding in carriages which looked like set pieces from ‘Cinderella’ and a coffee shop – which was closed – but advertised St. Louis’s best ‘Gooey Butter Cake’, whatever that meant.  I made a mental note of looking that up and if possible coming here to try it out in the morning.

Carriage seats inside the 'Arch'

The next morning I had tickets to go up the ‘Arch’ but I did want to try the ‘Butter Cake’.  So I walked up to the self-proclaimed champions of that dessert - ‘Park Avenue Coffee’ - to try it out for myself.  Now, while it is certainly a delicious concoction, it is also extremely dense and like the “Elvish Lembas Bread”, I was satisfied after a few bites.  I then made my way to the ‘Courthouse’ to pick up my tickets for the ‘Arch’.  As I approached the monument, its grand scale became evident.  I must admit that there was a sense of vertigo as I stood under the ‘Arch’ and looked skyward.  I went inside the building at the base and stood in line with some of the other tourists to get inside the small trolley that takes people up to the apex.  And when I say small, I mean really really tiny.  It is nothing more than a box with 5 seats, which rises laterally through the sides of the ‘Arch’.  A young couple was supposed to ride in my carriage but at the last minute the lady saw the claustrophobic interior and burst into tears.  She said that there was no way that she wanted to be in there and urged her companion to go up with us and he did.  Once on top the view was spectacular but the observation deck itself was a narrow corridor, which due to the curvature, presented an unsure footing.  But it did give us a good look at the city and the Mississippi.

I came down and walked about a bit in the fields and went back to the ‘Courthouse’ to take a look at some of the exhibits in that building.  It was close to lunch time and I picked up my bag at the hotel and headed back to ‘Rooster Café’.  If there’s one thing I do during my travels, it’s that when I find a good place to eat, I extract maximum out of it.  I found myself at the same table and Rachel recognized me from the previous day.  This time she recommended that I try the ‘Crepes’ for which they are known, and then visit the ‘Saint Louis Science Center’ before my flight in the evening.  I spent the afternoon in the museum, which is very unique in the way it uses “hands-on” technique to educate kids and adults alike on scientific principles. 

I took a cab to the airport after a short but enjoyable visit.  I had been in Saint Louis for just over a day, but that had been enough for me to appreciate the city, which is more than just the 'Gateway Arch'.  It had been another successful stop on the ‘51/51’ tour.

5. Tennessee

Month: February 2015

Location: Nashville

In the week prior to my visit, Nashville was hit by a severe ice storm that brought the entire city to a standstill.  In fact, my trip would have been cancelled were that to have happened the weekend that I was travelling.  But the weather cleared up and I arrived in Nashville on a sunny morning.  As I took a cab from the airport to my hotel, the driver told me about their ordeal the previous weekend and how everything there was plenty of ice still around.  And he wasn’t kidding.  As I got out of the cab and looked around, the sidewalks were covered by a thick slab of ice, reminding me of an ice rink.  Yeah, this was going to be interesting.

Ice Ice Everywhere

Unlike some of my other travels, I had not made any plans regarding what to do now that I was here – except one for tomorrow.  I looked online for some places to eat and found a country-style diner a little over a mile away.  The map showed a path through some park and I set-off…only to encounter more ice.  As I resorted to every tactic to avoid stepping on ice, there came a point where there were stairs leading down to the street below and every step was a block of ice.  That’s when I called it quits and came back to the hotel.  I asked the concierge on options to eat and he mentioned a place called ‘Puckett’s Grocery’.  Now, the name suggested a grocery store with a food court, but it was a restaurant all right…and what a place.  After a strong Martini – hey it’s 5 o’clock somewhere – and a “Hot Chicken Sandwich” – a Nashville specialty – I was ready to tackle the city.

'Ryman Auditorium'

As I entered the heart of the downtown, it was still nasty on the streets.  I came across an indoor market with its local eating places and also a Coffee Shop named ‘Frothy Monkey’, which is one of the popular places in the city.  My first impression of the place was the word “cool”.  I grabbed a “Turtle Mocha” and sat in an upstairs area to strategize the rest of my day.  If Nashville is known for anything, it is ‘Country Music’.  While I personally do not listen to it a great deal, the city is full of historical places and institutions that warrant a visit, one of them being the ‘Grand Ole Opry’, which is a few miles from the downtown area.  I had initially booked a car, but had cancelled it after the weather havoc of the previous week.  This made visiting ‘Grand Ole Opry’ a bit of a ride in a cab.  But there was something even better in downtown – the historic ‘Ryman Auditorium’, the birthplace of the ‘Opry’ before it moved to its new home.

Minnie Pearl's 'Hall of Fame' plaque

I bought a ticket for a guided tour –including a visit to the dressing rooms which almost all of the great country stars have frequented.  It is an awe inspiring view as one enters the amphitheater that is the main auditorium.  With semi-circular arrangement of wooden rows – that resemble pews – and a balcony that feels like it’s right above the stage; this can be both, an intimidating, as well as an exhilarating arena for the performers.  Our tour guide told us about how the days of the ‘Opry’ over here and stories of the great artists, including the anecdote about Minnie Pearl and her famous hat with the $1.98 price tag.  The story goes that she was a comedienne who was a beloved on this stage, and known for her extravagant floral hats.  On one occasion she did not have flowers for her hat and so her assistant got some artificial flowers that went on the top of a regular hat.  After another rousing performance, as she bowed to the applauding audience, a $1.98 price tag popped out of the artificial flowers and hung in front of her face.  Rather than be embarrassed, she made a joke out of it and to the audience’s credit, they accepted that as a part of her persona.  That led to the price tag being a constant addition to her act from then on, so much so that there are memorabilia sold with that tag and even her ‘Hall of Fame’ plaque has the engraving of the tag hanging from a hat.  Another anecdote about the plaque is that of all the deceased performers honored in the ‘Hall of Fame’, hers is the only plaque without a ‘Year of Death’ since she believed in living forever in the hearts of her fans. We heard many such stories, especially as we walked through the fantastic dressing rooms, some which had been customized for their famous guests.  Later on we got to see the stage from the side and as the guided portion of the tour concluded, I walked around the showcases lining the balcony and containing the dresses that many performers wore on the stage.  It had been a great exposure to the history of this place and a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.

The weather was getting a bit dodgy and so I headed back to the hotel.  In the evening I came down to go get something to eat but freezing rain was coming down and the sidewalks were slushy. This made walking an almost impossible proposition and the best I could do was make it to ‘Morton’s Steakhouse’ a block away.  I had traveled all this way to end up in a place which I can go to in Chicago whenever I want.  It’s never really the location, but what you do with it that’s important.  I was lucky to come across a friendly bartender and I spent my time there chatting and discussing my travels as well as things to do in Nashville.  One of those things is going to a live music place, but with the weather the way it was, that would not be happening this evening.

Watching the rain with Hot Chocolate

The next day dawned overcast and the forecast called for rain later on in the afternoon.  The concierge had not been kidding when he had named ‘Puckett’s Grocery’ as the place to visit for food and just as I was wrapping up a southern brunch over there, the rain arrived.  I was armed with my umbrella and so walked up to the riverfront, but once again encountered my nemesis on this trip – ice.  I had some time to kill before my appointment in the afternoon and I was looking for some sort of shelter as well.  That came in the form of a tiny establishment which advertised “Hot Chocolates From Around The World”.  There are few pleasures of life that are simpler than sitting at the window of a coffee shop while sipping hot chocolate and watching the rain.  Nothing else that I could have done this morning would have topped that.

I called an ‘Uber’ because I was headed to place a bit outside of downtown, for an activity called ‘Escape The Room – Nashville’.  From the time I participated in a similar game in Chicago, I have been a fan of this, where you are locked in a room with strangers and have an hour to solve the clues, and find the key to escape.  Besides the one in Chicago, I have participated in 3 such rooms in New York City and my record is 4-0, having escaped all of them.  As I waited for the game to commence, I chatted with the staff members and looked at their push-pin maps – both Domestic and World – which showed the people who had played this game.  Based on that, it certainly looked like a popular attraction.  My team arrived – 3 other couples who were also visitors and we got acquainted.  Once inside the room, we worked really well together and despite some complexities, managed to escape with a few minutes to spare.  My record was still intact.

'6-Word Song Title'

My next destination was the most famous of them in town – ‘The Country Music Hall of Fame’.  As I roamed through the building, even a person like me who is on the fringes of country music, couldn’t help but be fascinated by the way it has been done.  It is a style of music rich in history and I was captivated by the exhibits and the stories.  The main room was the rotunda which has plaques of all inductees lining its walls and it was truly a privilege to visit this place.  However the most memorable thing from my visit here were two noticeboards which had hundreds of ‘Post-It’ notes on them.  One was an encouragement to post an answer to, “Who is your dream Duet Partner? What Song would you sing together” and the second was “Write your own six-word title that describes your life.  Leave it as an inspiration to others or take it with you as a reminder of your visit to the museum”.  I contributed to both of the lists and those will remain there as a token of my visit to this amazing place.

The magnificent 'The Parthenon'

It was raining, but I was on the “Music Row”, meaning there was one thing to do – go into the bars for some live music, including the famous “Tootsies”.  All the places were as lively as you would expect them to be and I visited a few before heading for dinner to – you guessed it, ‘Puckett’s Grocery’ yet again.  It had become my favorite and for good reason.  The next day my flight was in the evening and I wanted to visit one of the other attractions of Nashville – ‘The Parthenon’.  This is a building, very much like the one in Greece that is thousands of years old.  The only difference is that this one is still in one piece.  I was dropped off at one of the entrances and as has been the norm this trip, found my way blocked by ice.  After navigating through this I learnt that building was still closed and so waited in a nearby ‘Starbucks’ till opening time.  I walked back there at 11 am and it truly is a magnificent sight as you approach the building, very unlike anything that you can expect in Nashville.  Inside, is a giant – and I mean giant – statue of ‘Athena’, the “Greek Goddess" after whom the city of Athens is named. It is an amazing landmark and I was glad to have come. 

Prior to leaving, I decided to spend the afternoon in the familiar setting of the ‘Frothy Monkey’.  It was a nice relaxing end to the trip and I took a cab back to the airport satisfied that I had made the most of my visit.  Sure the weather had been terrible and the conditions weren’t quite convenient for walking.  But I had enjoyed myself thoroughly and had come to appreciate the rich heritage of ‘Country Music’.  Nashville has most definitely been one of the highlights of my ‘51/51’ quest and I look forward to returning back someday.