20. Maryland

Month: May 2016

Location: Baltimore

When I told people that I was going to Baltimore, the 2 things that they mentioned were, “Crabs” and the TV show “The Wire”.  While I enjoy the former, I never got into the latter.  So I wasn’t going to get too excited or do a “Wire tour”, if such thing were available.  I arrived in Baltimore in the afternoon and after some searching found the train station.  The next problem was finding the ticket vending machine and after asking around, I managed to get a ticket just as the train was approaching.  I rode it into the downtown, and got off a few blocks from my hotel, using the map on my phone the rest of the way.  I checked in and then got down to the most important activity for the evening – where to eat!

Perfect evening on the waterfront

I asked for directions to the waterfront and it was a pleasant late afternoon as I set off.  My first destination was ‘Ripley’s Believe It Or Not Museum’ on the "Inner Harbor".  I had visited Orlando’s version of this during my trip there, but has some time to kill.  The very first thing that greeted me for a statue of the “tallest man in the world” and he looked eerily like my Graduate school advisor.  It was a good museum and kept me engrossed for over an hour.  I came out to find that it was not an absolutely gorgeous evening and the waterfront area was coming alive.  I had made dinner reservations, but before that went to a nearby place for a cocktail.  It was a charming place, with wooden interior and was very much a bar that one would expect near a harbor.  I came out and walked through a nearby shopping arcade, before setting off for my dinner.

The fantastic skyline

The restaurant was across the harbor, and I could see it from where I was.  But since there wasn’t a bridge, connecting the 2 sides, I had to go around the harbor and that took a good 30 minutes.  However, I wasn't complaining since the night had set in and the skyline of Baltimore was looking spectacular.  I arrived at the restaurant – ‘Rusty Scupper’ – which had a distinct nautical theme, and which stayed consistent through my order. I had a nice view of the harbor from my table and it was a perfect location for my first night in the city.  I walked back to my hotel and although the hotel bar sounded lively, I was tired and went straight to my room to retire.

'Lexington Market'

I had a busy day and so decided to have an early lunch.  I had done some research on the best “Maryland Crab Cakes” and most had picked a place called ‘Faidley’s Seafood’.  I checked and saw that it was within walking distance of my hotel.  So I set off and as I moved away from the downtown, there was distinct change in the neighborhood and it became more rundown.  The place was inside a building called ‘Lexington Market’, which had other eating places besides this one – most of them ethnic.  It was quite early and there was just one other family besides me in the line.  There were standing tables only and so armed with a “Crab Cake” I took my spot there and discovered that it was as good as advertised.  After I had polished off my plate, I requested an ‘Uber’ and it was an interesting wait outside the market with some colorful language and propositions.  A beat up van pulled up as my ride and on the way the driver mentioned how driving for ‘Uber’ is an alternative to beating up his wife, since now he can just leave home to drive when he gets annoyed.  Nice city!

The outside and inside of one of the artworks

My destination was ‘Baltimore Museum Of Art’ and I arrived a few minutes before the next guided tour.  I walked about a bit before joining my group which had 5 other folks besides me, including a couple who were visiting after 40 years and had come specifically to see ‘Matisse’, which they remembered from back then.  The theme for the tour was “Various forms of art” and for the next hour our guide took us around the museum and regaled us with stories.  It was a very informative tour and I had great time learning about some of the artifacts.  After we had finished, I looked around for a while before calling my ride for the next destination, ‘B&O Railroad Museum’.

The central hall of 'B&O Railroad Museum'

As I arrived at the museum, the skies had started to darken and rain was imminent.  The museum itself had two parts - rooms with history of the railroad and scaled models; and then actual sized locomotives and carriages in a grand hall and some that were outside in the yard.  The hall itself was spectacular and the collection of historical trains was incredible.  The best was the mechanism by which they keep rotating what’s on display, via a center section that can be moved manually like a “turntable”, to align the tracks.  The trains can then either be brought in or taken out and apparently they do this as a show.  I walked through the carriages in there and then went outside where some of the other artifacts were located, including a train which had a carriage long “model train” display.  There was plenty to see and I could have spent more time there, but I was concerned about the weather.  I had in fact turned down a chance to ride in one of the trains since I wanted to get to my next destination before the inevitable downpour.

The fantastic 'Geppi's Museum'

I walked back towards the downtown and almost made it to the end, just getting caught in the rain a few meters from the ‘Geppi’s Entertainment Museum’.  Now I have seen some museums in my time, but nothing like this.  This is a museum dedicated to Comics.  But that’s not the only thing.  It is just so well done.  Everything from the wooden paneling to the lighting, to the décor was fantastic and it is one of the most inviting museums that I have been to.  Each room had its own theme and even the corridors had interesting artifacts, including two life-sized statues of “Superman” on either side.  Plus this wasn’t just a museum about comics – although it was dominate by those.  There were also references to movies and TV shows and a fan could spend hours in this place.  It truly was one of the more enjoyable places that I have visited during my travels.

The museum was right across the famous ‘Camden Yards’, home of the ‘Baltimore Orioles’, though with the weather the way it was, chances of a game were bleak.  It was interesting walk back to my hotel with the rain and dodging the shower bursts via stops in hotel lobbies.  I made it back relatively dry and then hung out in my room for some time before heading out for the evening.  I had asked for some recommendations for cocktail places and had been directed to a bar just around the corner called ‘American Brassiere’.  I went there just as the happy hour crowd was dissipating and after a cocktail, walked towards the harbor.  The unpleasant weather of the day had now turned into a beautiful evening and there is always something special about a waterfront during twilight.  People had come out to enjoy the evening and I savored the ambiance as I walked over towards my dinner destination.

Another perfect evening

I still had some time to spare and had found a couple of other cocktail places around the restaurant.  One of them was a place called ‘Apropoe’s’, which described itself as an “Edgar Allan Poe themed eatery”.  I sat at the bar, ordered a cocktail, and started a conversation with a gentleman next to me.  For the next 30 minutes or so we had a spirited discussion on several topics such as travel, cocktails, pizza, medicine and golf – he was a doctor from Augusta, Georgia, here for a convention and had ordered a pizza.  After we had said our goodbyes, I realized that we had never quite introduced ourselves by name.  This wasn’t the first time during my travels that I have had great conversation with someone without learning their name, and it wouldn’t be the last.  When I had called my dinner restaurant, ‘Charleston’, for reservations a month ago, they had said that they would be busy this night owing to “graduation week”.  I could see several young folks out and about in formal wear, ready to celebrate.  I waited at my restaurant bar and was then directed to a table next to a couple, who I learned were from Jamaica and gave me some valuable tips on what to order.  It was one of the better meals that I have had and for part of the dinner, I enjoyed conversing with them as well.  After dinner I took an ‘Uber’ back to my hotel, a day well spent.

The drinks selection at 'Miss Shirley's'

The first place that I wanted to visit on Sunday was reputed to be the best brunch place in town – ‘Miss Shirley’s Café’.  I arrived to see a huge crowd and was told that the wait would be in the vicinity of an hour.  Well, I really didn’t need to be anywhere in a hurry and so decided to wait.  There were several drink choices on offer for those waiting and all around me people were availing of that opportunity.  But I just waited and it really was an hour before I was seated.  I had studied the menu and had seen a sandwich which according to them was “The Best Breakfast Sandwich in the Nation”.  Now, that is a lofty claim and so I just had to try it.  While it was very good, I doubt if it lived up to its reputation.  I called for a ride to my next destination, not sure if the wait had been worth my time.

The 'Museum of Industry'

I was headed to ‘The Baltimore Museum of Industry’, which proved to be further away than I had thought.  But once I was there, I was glad to have come, since I had a very good time.  The museum – as they say in their description – is a “celebration of Maryland’s industrial legacy” and takes a visitor through various types of industry that once thrived in this area, such as “oyster cannery”, “printing press”, “tool makers” etc.  As I walked through the various rooms, which had been reproduced in their original setting from 75-100 years ago, I was reminded of the ‘Flour Museum’ in Minneapolis.  Although there was a guided tour which I would have loved to attend, I had limited time and wanted to visit one more place before I left for the airport; something that I try and visit in every state - a “Science Museum”. 

Yeah, I can live here

The ‘Maryland Science Center’ was near the waterfront, as was this museum and so I decided to walk over there.  The walk took me along the "Inner Harbor" and past some of the more expensive gated communities, all overlooking the downtown skyline.  The science center was full of kids as usual and I spent my remaining time over there, even attending a few shows.  Finally, in the late afternoon, I walked back to my hotel to pick up my bag and head to the airport.  I had no idea what to expect over here, but had enjoyed my time in the city – having eaten some good food, visited some interesting places and met some cool people.  It is a trend which has been consistent throughout my travels.