29. Arizona - Part 2

Month: February 2017

Location: Scottsdale, Phoenix & The Grand Canyon National Park

It was dark when I woke up the next morning and while I couldn’t see anything outside, I could certainly hear the rainfall.  I went down to the lobby for my 6:20 am pickup and as I waited outside on the portico, saw another gentleman with a backpack and wondered if he was on the same tour.  A small bus arrived at 6:20 am and I climbed aboard, as did this gentleman, and after a bit of confusion – apparently he was on another bus going to the same place but was given the wrong pickup location – we departed.  He sat next to me and I learned that his name was Craig, and he was a retired “New Zealander” who resided in Turkey and was here for a short visit.  He appeared to be a nice guy and a good travelling companion for the day.

Entering the beautiful Sedona

The weather cleared up a bit as we left the downtown and after picking up the rest of our group, we were on way.  As we passed through the cacti streamed landscape, our guide was on top form, pointing out some of the unique forms along the road, including “hugging cactus” - which we saw while going past them at 60 mph!  We stopped once at a gas station, where I picked up some coffee and a breakfast bar, and then it was on to Sedona, our half way point of the trip.  The rain picked up as we entered the beautiful town of Sedona, and the mist in the air made it appear to be even more charming.  Our guide told us that Sedona is the “resort capital” of the nation and most of them are pretty expensive, going for thousands of dollars a night. Looking around, I could see why.

The famous "Red Rock" of Arizona

Sedona is known for its “Red Rock” and we stopped at a viewing point to take a look at some of the most amazing creations of nature.  The massive red cliffs towered in front of us and the mist made it more enchanting.  There are trails that lead you to several of them for a day of hiking, though our guide pointed out that you had to tell people where you were going, so that they can dispatch search parties if you failed to return.  Today wasn’t a day to go there, even though the mist made it very enchanting.  We got back in the bus and continued towards downtown Sedona, as our guide pointed out different cliff formations that had been named based on their shape, such as “The Cathedral”, “The Submarine” and even “Snoopy and Charlie Brown”.  Bronze sculpted art works were all around us and our guide showed us a store that looked busy and he said that one could spend an entire day in there and yet not see everything, something that I could believe.

The fantastic candles

There was a drizzle as we got off on the main street, which was lined on both sides with local stores and surrounded by the red rock cliffs.  It is absolutely a place that I have to visit again, because the 30 minutes that we had would not be enough.  I saw an interesting store and went inside to check it out.  It was a “candle shop” and the gentleman there was hand making each candle.  These weren’t the usual cylindrical candles, but were shaped like a cauldron with artwork on the exterior.  I wanted to get one, though the choice wasn’t that easy since all the candles looked amazing.  I picked one and chatted with him as he showed me the process through which he makes them.  I love visiting local stores and nothing looked more local than this.  I went to check out a couple of other stores, before it was time to get underway.

Yeah, this is the desert

As we made our way towards the Canyon, the rain had now changed to snow and it was coming down in buckets.  Looking at the countryside outside the window one could be forgiven for thinking that we were driving through the Northeast rather than Arizona.  It wasn’t looking promising for our helicopter ride and that was confirmed by the flying company as we pulled into the airport just outside of the park.  Well, that just meant that we would have more time to explore on foot, if there was even a chance of doing that!  As we entered the ‘Grand Canyon National Park’, the weather was slightly better, though not much.  Our guide dropped us off near a lodge and said that the Canyon was on the other side of the building and that he would be back in an hour to pick us up.

My first view of the Canyon

Craig and I went through the lodge, where a group of teenage hikers where sitting by the fireplace warming up and it looked more like a scene from a ski resort.  We came out from the back and while it should have been one of the best “reveals”, we saw nothing…absolutely nothing.  We were at the edge of the Canyon and all that we could see were mist and clouds.  We went over to a gift shop, which had a balcony that should have been a great viewing location, but still nothing.  By this time my socks had been soaked and there is nothing more miserable than that.  So I purchased a pair at the shop and changed into them, though my relief was short-lived since it was still wet outside.  There were trails leading down to the base of the Canyon and that hike is something that I definitely want to do someday.  Our guide had told us about the Mules which usually take people down and while you would never see me on one, he did mention that their footing was much safer than a hikers. In any case, there wasn’t much hiking going on today.

Well, at least I got my picture taken

After a brief visit to a museum which showcased the first photographic expedition of the Canyon, more than a century ago, it was time to return back to meet our guide.  Our next stop was at the main “Visitor’s Center”, which was a gateway to one of the best observation points, though our chances weren’t that good.  It had stopped drizzling, but it picked up as soon as we got out of the bus and while we really couldn’t see anything, we did go over to the viewing area and take some pictures – of ourselves.  There was a video presentation in the center and after seeing that, it was time to head back to the bus.  Yes, we may not have seen the Canyon, but being there still filled me with a sense of accomplishment.  Plus, I had already made up my mind that I would return back and when I do, I would be going down.  I just have to make sure that I don’t come during the one weekend of the year when it snows!

Typically we would have headed back, but our guide was determined that we saw at least some part of the Canyon and so decided to take us to another spot, hoping that there would be a break in the clouds.  The weather was definitely improving on the surface and the sun had made an appearance.  The problem was still the mist in the Canyon’s interior, though our guide spotted an opening and all of us jumped out for some pictures.  But we really struck gold a few miles further and this time it was a clear view of the Canyon’s magnificence.  Just in that brief moment it was apparent why this is a considered one of the “Wonders of the World” and immediately, any sense of disappointment that the group may have had was forgotten.  This sight had been worth the wait.

Finally...a glimpse of the wonder

We were taking a different route back and it was now as sunny as can be expected in an Arizona dessert.  We were headed to a native town called Cameron and the drive there took us past some other, smaller canyons and it looked spectacular.  This really is a beautiful part of the country and requires more than just a day for someone to truly appreciate it.  As we came into Cameron, we could see some settlements which were really small…in some cases shacks.  Our guide said that these were very simple people for whom the land meant a lot more than materialistic comforts.  We were stopping at a place called “Cameron Trading Post”, which is a store full of artifacts made by native artisans.  It was a huge store and almost everyone ended up buying souvenirs, which were really amazing, and most came with a card introducing us to the artist who made it.  Then it was a long ride back to Scottsdale, which would take 3.5 hours.  Fortunately, our bus was equipped with a “DVD Player” and for at least a part of the trip; we saw the movie “Goonies”.  It was late when I was dropped off and after saying goodbye to my buddy Craig; I headed to the Hotel bar for some food and then retired to my room, thoroughly exhausted.

A beautiful day in Scottsdale

My final morning in Scottsdale looked like the best day in terms of weather.  It was indeed beautiful outside as I decided to walk through the arts district.  This was the only thing that I had planned for today and so I crisscrossed the different streets, trying to visit as many shops and galleries as I could - while not quite following the Blue line that marks the path that one should take to visit the galleries.  All the galleries are open to public and while most proprietors greet and then leave you alone, some were looking at me as if I was something that the cat had dragged in.

The treasures inside the galleries

It wasn’t just the galleries though as I found some other delightful treasures, like a “Oil and Vinegar Store” that offered tasting of its exotic…well, oils and vinegar's, as well as some chocolate dips.  I also saw a cute Gelato shop tucked away in an alleyway and while I passed that, there was another place that I just had to stop at.  The sign outside said ‘The Great Australian Bakery’ and they advertised as having “the best coffee in Scottsdale”.  I went inside and besides the Australian flags; they had stuffed Kuala’s and Kangaroo’s on display.  Their showcases were full of Sweet and Savory pies as well as a dessert named “Lamington”, which apparently is quite popular over in Australia.  I ordered a mini Chocolate pie along with the coffee and while it was good, it was far from the best in the city…or maybe it was since I hadn’t had enough sample size to compare.

It had been a fine visit

I continued my exploration and reached ‘Old Adobe Mission’, which is one of the old churches in the city.  Right next to it is one of the modern institutions, named ‘The Mission’ and they make some really good food.  After a fantastic lunch, I continued walking through the neighborhood. The last thing I did before leaving was return back to that Gelato shop that I seen earlier and having one.  I came back to my hotel to collect my bag and called an ‘Uber’ to take me to the airport.  The driver and I discussed my visit to the Canyon and he told me about how he had hiked down and gave me tips for when I do it.  As I sat at the gate and reviewed the trip in my mind, yes I had not been able to see the “Grand Canyon”, but I wasn’t upset about that.  Not at all.  If anything, I was convinced that this wouldn’t be the last time that I come to Arizona.

29. Arizona - Part 1

Month: February 2017

Location: Scottsdale, Phoenix & The Grand Canyon National Park

When I picked Arizona as my State for February, my plan was to stay in Phoenix and then rent a car to drive to Sedona for a day.  But then I was convinced to go to Scottsdale instead and also take a day trip to ‘The Grand Canyon National Park’.  If I was going to be so close, I might as well make that journey.  Plus, there was a tour that picked one up in Scottsdale and took them to the Canyon and back in a day.  That beat driving and so I booked it. Plus, for good measure, I added a Helicopter tour over the Canyon to my package.  I mean, why not!  But as my departure date came closer, I saw that  the 2 days of the year that it rains in Arizona, would be the weekend of my visit.  It wasn’t looking good for the chopper ride.

Scottsdale "Old Town"

I took a flight to Phoenix on Friday morning and the first interesting thing I noticed upon arrival was that there were 2 separate exits  in the airport terminal, depending on whether you wanted to go “East” or “West”.  I had never seen this before, especially for an airport which isn’t exactly ‘O’Hare’.  But more importantly, I wasn’t quite sure which one to pick.  I decided to choose “West” and I guess I was correct.  There was a lot of traffic on the road to Scottsdale, but it did allow me ample time to view the scenery.  The weather looked fantastic and as we entered Scottsdale, it was apparent that this wasn’t your typical downtown with tall buildings.  There were a lot of “Ranch Style” properties in pastel colors and everything looked clean.  I checked-in at the Hotel, where I was upgraded to a one bedroom suite.  Now, while that sounds great, let’s face it - who uses 2 rooms in a hotel?

The artwork outside the galleries

The weather was indeed great as I set off towards the main downtown area, which is one big “arts district” with galleries, shops and of course dining options.  I was going to a place called ‘Daily Dose Bar & Grill’.  I sat at the bar and with the help of a friendly server who helped me make an excellent choice; I had a great start to my visit.  I joined the main street which was buzzing with people and as I started walking down past the galleries, I saw a place called ‘Sugar Bowl’, which promised some of the best ice cream in the city.  Since I had just had lunch, I walked past it...but then returned back.  As I entered inside, it looked like a good old fashioned diner with long counter-tops with circular stools.  I got a cone with my favorite “Cookies and Cream” and like any good diner, was directed to a cashier’s booth to pay.  I joined the main street and while today wouldn’t be day for it, I knew I wanted to spend some time exploring these shops.

Native art at the
'Western Spirit Museum of the West'

I was headed to ‘Western Spirit Museum of the West’ and wanted to be on time for a tour.  As the name states, it is a museum dedicated to the culture of this region and hosts a lot of private collections. After getting a ticket I was ushered to an auditorium for a short film prior to the tour.  There were posters of great “westerns” from “Hollywood” lined up on the walls and while today we saw a documentary about the region and the museum, they do show fictional films every now and then.  There were a few people on the tour with me, where the guide took us through some of the artwork specific to the region and its natives; and which was over a 100 years old.  There were also pieces from contemporary artists, as well as massive collections of guns, arrows, saddles, headgear and other things one usually associates with “Cowboys” and “Native Americans”.  They also had a courtyard with some sculptures as well as a second floor.  I walked through all of it and then left for my next destination, which was a few blocks away.

One of the 3 galleries in 'Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art'

I found the ‘Scottsdale Museum for Contemporary Arts’, which looks like a interesting building from the outside.  It wasn’t that big though, with about 3 galleries that did not take me a long time to navigate.  Right next door is the ‘Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts’, which besides being a theater also has a couple of galleries.  I emerged from that into an area called the ‘Scottsdale Mall’, not in the sense of a typical shopping mall though.  It also had a building hosting ‘Scottsdale Historical Museum’, which was just one room of artifacts from the days of earliest settlements.  I had allocated almost 3 hours to last 3 activities, but found myself finishing in less than one.  So I headed to the nearest bar called ‘AZ/88 The Bar’ for an afternoon cocktail.  It was a nice space with lot of natural light and for some reason had a projection of a beating heart on the wall above the bar.  I left after one drink and entered back into the “arts district”, to head back to the hotel for an hour or so of rest.

The cozy 'Second Story Liquor Bar'

I came down for the evening and saw that there were freshly baked cookies in the lobby.  Yes please!  My hotel was on a street called “Indian School Road” and I had gone South earlier in the afternoon.  Now, I walked northwards towards one of the cocktail lounges that I had found online - ‘Second Story Liquor Bar’.  I almost missed the “hostess stand”, which was on the sidewalk and they came running behind me as I opened the door.  Duly checked in, I was guided to the...well, second floor. There I found a charming lounge, not unlike some of the other places that I have been to.  I sat at the bar and was presented with a menu, where all the drinks had names related to characters or situations from “Alice In Wonderland”.  A cocktail named “Cheshire Cat” promised an “extraordinary experience for all of your senses”. I promptly ordered that, only to be told that I had been offered the wrong menu and this one was only active after 10 pm.  Well so much for that then. 

This cocktail came with a biscotti!

The “Beverage Director”, Clint, was a friendly chap and he even knew some “mixologists” from Chicago.  We talked about them and some of our favorite bars and seeing that I was connoisseur, he did make for me a drink named “White Rabbit”, from the special menu.  He mentioned that I had come to Scottsdale during “Arizona Cocktail Week” and there were a lot of cocktail related events happening all over the city.  Many noted “mixologists” were visiting and he invited me out later in the night and gave me a card.  I also struck up a conversation with a couple next to me and learned that they were “travelling nurses”, where they move from place to place on a 3-month contract.  I had a good time chatting with them as well as Clint and he even called up to check if one of the places that I wanted to visit next was open – it wasn’t.  But there were other options and after mentioning to Clint that I may be back later, I left.

The place was coming alive

If the “Arts District” is an area where one can spend their mornings and afternoons, this one was where people come out to play in the evening.  The narrow streets were lined on either side with boutiques and I found my next stop called ‘Citizen Public House’, which was reputed to have “Aged Bourbon Cocktails”.  Unlike the earlier place which was a more intimate cocktail lounge, this one was bigger and more crowded.  But they do make a mean cocktail and as soon as I saw something named “Instant Gratification”, I had to get one and it did not disappoint.  There was one more stop to make before dinner and it was at a place called ‘Kazimierz World Wine Bar’ which was bursting at the seams with people.  I was lucky to find a seat at the bar and stayed there for a bit.  The place looked interesting and would have been really charming if it were less crowded and a lot quieter.

Ending the evening with dinner at 'Posh'

I left and continued walking north past a mall and some other restaurants, till I reached my dinner destination called ‘Posh Improvisational Cuisine’.  Well, the reason it’s named accordingly is because you fill out a card with your likes and dislikes, and they take care of the rest.  It’s a multi-course tasting experience and the dinner crowd had certainly slowed down when I arrived.  The server seemed worried that I was going to keep them late, but that wasn’t the case and I was done in little over an hour.  Then despite desperately wanting to go back for a “nightcap”, I called an ‘Uber’ and retired to my huge room.

Nothing better than Coffee and Cookie in the rain

Next day dawned with rain in the air…a lot of it.  I was going to Phoenix today and had a lot that I wanted to accomplish.  But first, I wanted to visit a store called ‘Super Chunk Sweets & Treats’.  This had been featured on “Food Network” and was rumored to have the “Best Chocolate Chip Cookie in Arizona”.  They opened at 9 am and it was my intention to be there soon after that.  While I would have typically walked, with the rain, I called an ‘Uber’.  They were still setting up for the day when I arrived, but the cookies were ready and so I grabbed one of those and a cup of coffee and sat outside in a covered part of the sidewalk with rain coming down.  I guess I could write a few sentences to describe that, but I just can’t.  Those who have had an opportunity to do something like this would understand.

At the 'Rosson House'

I called an ‘Uber’ for the 20 minute ride to Phoenix and on the way discussed sports with my driver.  The weather was clearing up and it looked like I may get lucky.  He dropped me at a place called ‘Rosson House Museum at Heritage Square’.  This house built in 1895 by a wealthy doctor, is now a local heritage site and offers tours on the hour starting at 10 am.  I had wanted to ensure that I was on time for the first of those tours.  It was a beautiful setting with this vintage house in the rain and I bought a ticket from a cute little gift shop.  At 10 am a lady docent took us into the house and as soon as we entered inside, we were transported to a different, more civilized era.  They also had a exhibit on the dresses that the family wore during their stay in this house and they were displayed in each room.  We heard the stories of the family and the passage of this house through time and with different ownership.  It was also interesting to see some of the other “period pieces” like the doctor’s office and his tools, as well as the kitchen with it unique “refrigerator”.  It was a great way to spend an hour.

The "Shark Exhibit" at 'Arizona Science Center'

Right next door is ‘Arizona Science Center’ and I headed to it, only to be greeted by long line…a really long line.  It doesn’t rain that frequently in these parts and today was that one exception.  Perhaps that was the reason why all families had come out to the museum.  Either that or this place is really popular.  After what seemed like an eternity, I reached the ticket counter and did not have the time for any of the special movies or “planetarium” shows.  I did however add something called “Shark Exhibit” to my visit, which contributed to an already exorbitant cost.  Well based on the demand, good luck to them.  During my travels I have had an opportunity to visit many science museums and this one was quite basic compared to some of the others.  The special shark exhibit was okay, the best part being a room with screens all around, which simulated being inside a shark tank.  After walking through the 4 floors – 2 were really sparse – I called a ride for my lunch stop.

It was drizzling as I walked through downtown Phoenix

Last night I had heard that the place to visit for brunch in Phoenix was ‘Ocotillo’.  As I took an ‘Uber’ there, the skies had cleared up and the Sun was out.  The restaurant had a lively vibe with open spaces and even a “DJ” for music…something that I had not seen at a restaurant.  I requested a table close to a spot where I could charge my phone and was pleased to learn that the charging ports were in fact located below my seat, which was very convenient indeed.  After brunch I came out to see that the drizzle was back and while I should have called for a ride, I thought that I should just walk the mile to my next destination.  By the time I reached there, the drizzle had turned into something stronger and I was soaked.

The impressive 'Heard Museum'

I was at the ‘Heard Museum’, which hosts a collection of Native arts and culture.  I wanted to attend their 2 pm tour and upon arrival saw that several people had the same idea.  It was the largest crowd that I have seen gathered for a tour.  Looks like the weather had prompted people to visit museums today.  The building itself was very impressive and from the outside looked like an old colonial house, though the interior was as modern as any art museum that I have seen.  It even had a central courtyard, with a covered walkway around the perimeter and the rain made it particularly attractive.  The guide confirmed that it was the largest tour that he had seen and so we were going to be split in 2 groups.  Also, because of the crowd, we would not be able to cover some of the areas.  Finally, he said that while he sympathized with those of us who were visitors, the Arizona natives were not going to apologize for the rain, since they get so little of it.

The interior courtyard

We started the tour and just like the museum I had been to yesterday, this one showcased Native artists.  Our guide was very good and told us stories as we toured the exhibits, none more poignant than about an exhibit that we did not visit, but he encouraged us to do so after the tour.  It was the gruesome story of Native children who were taken from their families so as to educate them on how to assimilate with the more “mainstream” people.  And it wasn’t a “prep school” either, but very unhygienic camps where many children died, most due to homesickness.  Plus, when the kids “graduated”, they were not given jobs that are typically available to other Americans. Instead, they were told to return by to their roots, where they felt like outsiders after so many years.  As I walked through the exhibit later, it was a reminder of some of the worst times from our history.

A stop at the 'Phoenix Art Museum'

It was still drizzling when I left and walked another few block to ‘Phoenix Art Museum’.  It was a much bigger and modern building than any others that I had seen during this trip and had wide sprawling galleries.  I walked through them for the next hour and it would take a lot longer than that to get a complete appreciation of the place.  As I had expected, a part of the museum was shut down in preparation for a wedding.  Once again, no matter where I travel, seems like there was no escaping a wedding scene.  It was still raining when I called ‘Uber’ and now it was time to go to one of the top bars in Phoenix, ‘Bitter and Twisted Cocktail Parlor’.

The cute "Bear Witness"

Unlike the cocktail places from yesterday, which were dark and cozy, this one was big and with a lot of light.  As I sat at the bar, I was offered a thick book of cocktails, which had been classified into categories named after old “Video Games”.  There was a graphical representation of the cocktails in terms of their sweetness etc., but I asked the “mixologist” for recommendation.  He was a nice chap named Tim, and in fact knew Clint – who he called “Spotty” – from yesterday.  We discussed the “Arizona Cocktail Week” and he told me to come to an event tomorrow night in Phoenix, where some of the top bars would be represented and for the entry fee, visitors would be able to sample cocktails at all stations.  I told him that I would try to make it.  But as far as I was concerned, the best event was happening on Monday evening, as different teams would compete in an “Iron Chef” style competition for cocktails.  Tim was apparently the coach of the Phoenix team, which included Clint.  For the next hour I watched him make drinks and I tried something called “Hemmingway’s Demise” and then “Bear Witness” which came in a cute Bear-shaped container!

Yep, I got into the spirit of things

I was headed back to Scottsdale and the ‘Uber’ ride was enjoyable with me and the driver discussing her dog, which is always a good conversation topic.  I was going to a place that I had tried getting into yesterday, but they had been closed for a private event.  I arrived at ‘Counter Intuitive’ which looked like your typical cocktail lounge, though they seemed to be having a party inside.  The guy at the door asked if “I had RSVP’d” and I said that I thought tonight was a normal evening.  He said that it was a free event, but one had to “RSVP” for it.  I said that I was disappointed since I was looking forward to attending.  Perhaps seeing my face, he gave me a wristband to enter and that came with 3 free drinks.  And these weren’t your typical beer or wine drinks, but 3 special cocktails that they had concocted for the evening.  Tonight’s theme was “France” and all of the cocktails had a “Parisian flair”.  Plus they were handing out “Berets” and I wore one as I sampled my way through the drinks, making friends with my fellow revelers, so much so as to skip my next stop before dinner.  The cocktails were as good as I have had and all it cost me was a tip.

The fantastic 'Monarch Cafe'

I could have stayed longer, but I had dinner reservations at a place called ‘Monarch Café’ and boy, was that a pretty place.  It is certainly one of the more romantic restaurants that I have seen and I enjoyed my time there.  It was a nice night and I wanted to walk back to my hotel, but not before stopping at the place that I had skipped earlier in the evening. It was called ‘Beverly On Main’, because...well it is on “Main Street”.  It was full and seemed like the place to be on a Saturday night.  I managed to squeeze into a seat at the bar and after a cocktail, decided to call it a night.  Using my trusted phone I immediately got lost – which is never fun at night – but made it back to my room. I had a big day planned tomorrow.  Finally, after all these years, I was going to ‘The Grand Canyon National Park’.

To Be Continued...