49. Michigan

Month: October 2018

Location: Ann Arbor

It was getting close to the end and surprisingly, I had yet to make it to Michigan.  Given its proximity – it was in the “Driving Distance” group on my list – I would have expected to visit it sooner.  I had always heard how pretty Michigan gets during Fall, especially the Western part next to ‘Lake Michigan’.  So, one of the ideas that I thought about entertaining was a long trip, driving up North, along the Western side, going around the top, into the ‘Upper Peninsula’ and down Wisconsin.  This would also let me visit ‘Mackinac Island’ – which I have wanted to do for a long time – and ‘Door County’ – which is supposed to be one of the prettiest places in the US.  However, that would take a long time and seemed more suitable for a separate adventure.  So, it came down to Detroit and Ann Arbor.  My boss, George, is from Ann Arbor and has always encouraged me to visit, especially for a football game.  He said that Detroit is like any other city, but there is nothing like watching a “Michigan Wolverines” game at the “Big House”, with 110,000 fans – the largest stadium in the nation.  So, there it was, I was going to Ann Arbor with George.

Our home for the weekend

George and I had started planning months ago and picked a game against “University of Wisconsin”.  Getting tickets would be easier, than getting accommodations, since everything is sold out way in advance and whatever remains is mighty expensive.  We found an “Airbnb” not too far from downtown, though we would be paying a premium for that.  But I was saving on the airfare, since George was driving.  At the end of my 51 visits, I would have visited 2 States by car – Wisconsin and Michigan;  and one by train – Illinois.  Rest were by air.  We left on a rainy Friday afternoon from work and immediately ran into the famous Chicago traffic.  The “GPS” was telling us that some parts of Indiana weren’t looking good and so we took a detour through the town of ‘Gary’, going through the back roads.  Man, looking at that rundown place made me appreciate every other city that I have lived in.  As we drove by, there wasn’t anything that looked remotely appealing to us, let alone folks younger than us.

Downtown Ann Arbor

Eventually we got back on the main road and made our way through the rain into Ann Arbor.  It had taken over 4 hours – plus losing an hour due to time change – but the conversations had been great.  Our house was located on a typical suburban street, which was also quite dark.  But it was quite nice on the inside, with a finished basement and couple of bedrooms on the top floor.  I told George that I would take the bathroom in the basement and with that settled, we left our car in the driveway and started off for downtown.  That did not take long and soon we were in the heart of it.  Even with the rain, I could see that it was a very lively town, with restaurants and bars, and people enjoying those.  Not bad of a place which was more or less built around a University.

The busy 'Aventura'

Our first stop was for dinner and George took me to one of his favorite “Tapas” joints called ‘Aventura’.  The place was full, so much so that even the bar area was standing room only.  I liked this place, it was trendy and a far cry from the places I used to visit as a student.  I mentioned to George that students nowadays seem to have more money to spend on places like this than I did.  We squeezed next to the bar and ordered our drinks.  I got something called “De Nuez”, which looked like an “Old Fashioned” and George got “Sangria”.  He said that these folks were known for that stuff and looking around, I saw a glass of that on every table.  I had it as my second drink and for sure, it was probably the best “Sangria” that I’ve had.  We got two seats at the bar and ordered a plethora of “tapas”, including some cheese and cured meats.  It was perfect and coupled with the ambiance, we couldn’t have done better to get started.  It was still drizzling as we left, and the streets were full of folks in different stages of inebriation.  Aah, a “college town”. 

Look at that pour!

I had done some research on the bars and had sent George a list.  He had given his comments on them and for most parts, he had concurred.  The next bar he took me to was called ‘Knights’.  It was another busy place, which looked more like a pub than a restaurant.  There was huge oval-shaped bar in the center and tables and booths around the perimeter.  Once again, there wasn’t any place at the bar and so we ordered our drinks from a guy who knew George quite well.  George had suggested that we get a pour of “Russell’s 10 Years Bourbon”, something which I had not tasted previously.  Not only was it good, there was a lot of it!  George had mentioned that this place was known for their generous pours and was it ever.  We were presented with a huge goblet, which in Chicago would have cost far more than it did here.  It was good that we also got some place at the bar, since I wouldn’t have wanted to enjoy this standing up.

Inside 'Nitecap'

We took our time with this and then left for what George termed as the real “craft cocktails” place in Ann Arbor.  Hidden behind an unmarked door – a good start - was ‘Nitecap’.  Like the other places that we had visited this evening, this one was full as well.  While not quite dark and cozy like my favorite cocktail bars, it was modern and looked sophisticated.  Plus, the bartenders looked like they belonged to the “brotherhood of modern mixologist’s”!  We got a seat at the bar and I started with “Rum Old Fashioned”, which is a good test to gauge their skills, and they passed.  As with some of the bartenders that I have met during my travels, we got talking about our favorite bars across the nation and the conversations turned to ‘Dead Rabbit’ in NYC.  I mentioned that that place made the best “Irish Coffee” that I have ever had and that got their interest.  A bunch of them gathered around and made me an “Irish Coffee” based on the recipe from ‘Dead Rabbit’.  Plus, they joined me in having the drink.  It was a great time and I mentioned to George that we should return tomorrow.

It had been a great start

The final stop for the evening was at ‘Alley Bar’, which George had termed as his favorite bar in Ann Arbor and his regular haunt.  It was a good old fashioned “dive bar” though, they had cocktails on tap!  I started with “Negroni on tap”, which was fantastic, as was the “Manhattan on tap”.  I typically do not go to “Dive Bars”, neither do I stay out late.  But, being here was fun and I also met some of George’s friends, which added to the enjoyment.  This had been a great evening and I wouldn’t have enjoyed it as much, had I come here by myself.  Tomorrow was going to be a long day, but that didn’t stop us from closing the place down and we headed back to our house and called it a night.

A beautiful day for a game

We were still feeling the effects of the previous night as we left our house.  In the daylight, I could appreciate how pretty our neighborhood was, as we walked to downtown on a beautiful October morning.  George had promised me that Ann Arbor offers some of the best coffee shops and he took me to ‘Mighty Good’ and it was, well, mighty good.  Coffee was just part of it, and now were looking for some breakfast.  That would be at ‘Café Zola’ which was full of fans headed to the football game.  We got a couple of seats at the bar and the menu looked full of good options.  George said that he usually keeps it simple and recommended something called “Nadia’s Omelette with Polish Sausage and Feta Cheese”, along with some “Fresh Orange Juice”.  It is amazing how fresh ingredients made well can go a long way and the dish was outstanding.  So far, Ann Arbor had not disappointed.

We would be "tailgating" at a golf course

When we had first planned the game, it was scheduled to be played at noon, but then owing to the National popularity of these teams, got moved to the night at 7:30 pm.  That meant a long day of “tailgating”, something that I have never done before, let alone 7 hours of it!  We stopped at a convenience store to pick up some supplies i.e. beer and bourbon and then called a ride.  We were going to a golf course near the stadium, where George’s brother and friends had set up shop along with other regulars, something that they have done every football season for decades.  You could feel the excitement of “Gameday”, something that I had never experienced at “UConn”, which doesn’t pride itself as a football powerhouse.  This was going to be special.

People were ready for a good time

We were dropped off at the entrance of the course and George mentioned that because of the previous night’s rain, we weren’t sure if they would have allowed us on the course today.  Fortunately, everything had dried out and with the clear skies, there was no evidence of the rain.  As we walked over the greens, there was an area where a lot of people had set up stations, including tents with “Michigan Colors”, flags and of course, grills and coolers.  This wasn’t your parking lot party, and being on the lush green fairway, gave it more of an upscale feel, though no one was wearing a suit!  We met up with George’s brother who was called “Z” and his buddy Ken, and they immediately welcomed me and made me feel comfortable.  I mentioned that this was my first “tailgating” and they said that I was in for a treat.  For the next several hours, that’s exactly what happened.

Better than a parking lot

Ken and Z pretty much knew everyone around and people floated in and out of each other’s parties.  Especially popular were Ken’s “Margarita shots”.  He offered one to me and I am not usually in favor of doing shots, but after some persuasion I had it and oh boy!  Not only was it good, it is safe to say after several more of those throughout the day – yes, I did – it was probably the best “Margarita” that I have had.  Besides drinking and eating, the way folks spend their time here is by playing “Bocce”.  The last time I had played was 10 years ago, when there was a competition at my old office in Pittsburgh.  Me and my partner had won the first game and had then been soundly beaten in the next round.  The objective of the game is to throw a small ball in any direction you please.  After that, you and your partner alternate with the other team, in getting 2 additional balls each, close to the original ball.  When all 8 balls have been thrown, you get points for the number of balls you get close to the small ball.

Our crew

When it comes to accuracy, well, let’s just say that I have better talents than this.  George and I were partners and considering Ken and Z have been doing this on a weekly basis, our prospects weren’t the best.  However, we took an early lead, with yours truly playing like a star.  While there were some strays, most of my throws were on point.  I was also playing with a bottle of beer in one hand and it wasn’t a bad effort.  Ken and Z made a late comeback, and in the end, we lost by a point.  They all gave me credit for playing a decent game.  It had been fun and with wide open fairways – including roughs and bunkers – available, we could pick a direction and continue playing.

We replenished through a few of Ken’s “shots” and mingled with other folks, some of whom had set up TVs to keep track of earlier games, including the hated ‘Ohio State University’.  There was plenty of food to munch on and we were all having a great time.  Soon, someone proposed a second round of “Bocce” and this time George and I were victorious.  We were playing well as a team and we all agreed that after another break for some drinks and food, we would have a final tiebreaker game.  It was late afternoon when we concluded our series, with me and George losing by a point.  We had been leading and should have won, but in the end, it wasn’t to be.  We celebrated with more “shots” and Z bust out his grill and made dozens of “sausages” and “burgers”.  If this is what tailgating’s about, I don’t mind doing it more frequently.  I would have never thought that 7 hours would go by in an instant and I was surprised at how much I had enjoyed myself.  Kudos to Ken, Z and George for giving me this experience.

Headed to the game

Evening was setting in and the excitement level was rising.  People started taking down their tents and cleaning up.  With some beers in hand, George and I said goodbye to Ken and Z – they were in another section – and started for the stadium.  We disposed off our bottles and went through the long lines, which took some time.  It was loud when I entered the stadium and the first sight of the field and the crowd was something to behold.  Wow!  I have been to a few “NFL” games, but this was a whole new thing, especially with the sheer volume of people in here.  We found our seats, though they were just for namesake since no one was sitting down and for the next few hours, barring the half time, neither did I.

What a venue!

It must be intimidating for these college kids, walking into this environment and I am not even sure if it affects the “home” or the “away” team more.  I never understood the passion that “college football” incites in people and the tremendous pressure that these teams are under.  There was a band occupying one section and the crowd did not let go of any opportunity to sing the “Michigan fight song”.  The game began and for someone like me who love the professional version, it took some time getting used to some substandard play.  But to be honest, the entire evening wasn’t about the game on the field.  It was about being here, amongst the 111,000 + fans and the electric environment.  Michigan won the game easily – Wisconsin’s offense was just terrible – and the entire day had been a unique experience, unlike any other.

Starting at 'Jolly Pumpkin'

After the game, it felt like most of these 100,000 fans were headed to the downtown with droves making the 1 mile walk with us.  I didn’t even want to imagine how driving out of here would be at this time.  Both George and I were dead tired, and I mentioned that we hadn’t really sat down since this morning.  It was the most brutal day on my legs, since my “marathon walks” for “Jimmy Fund”.  After what seemed forever, we reached civilization and George took me to a place called ‘Jolly Pumpkin’.  Any hope that we had for finding a place to sit evaporated when we saw the crowd.  The place was packed and there was enough crowd at the bar that it would have taken us a long time to get close.  We found a corner and George ordered a “Sour beer” for me called “Weizen Bam”.  These folks are known for their “sours” and while I am not the biggest fan of that type, this one was quite good.

Ending the night at the 'Alley Bar'

We continued on and considering how much I had enjoyed ‘Nitecap’ yesterday, we returned for another round.  The bar area was full, though we finally found a spot by the wall and some much-needed rest.  Once again, I ordered “Rum Old Fashioned” and by the time we had finished our first round, a couple of seats had opened at the bar.  I saw the folks from last night and so it was time for another “Irish Coffee” and conversations.  We also chatted with some folks near us and while I could have stayed here, George said that there was no way we wouldn’t close the night at the ‘Alley Bar’.  Plus, George’s daughter Jessica was going to meet us there.  It was as crowded as last night, and it was nice to meet Jessica and chat with her over my “Negroni on tap”.  We closed the bar again and this time as we returned home, I knew tomorrow would be rough.

Final morning in Ann Arbor

Yes, it was rough.  My entire body was aching as I dragged myself out of the bed, and I took my time doing it.  Yesterday had taken a toll.  We had to check out of our house, which we had literally used just for sleeping purpose.  One interesting thing that I noticed was that someone had been inside the bathroom that I was using, since some of the items had been moved around.  I am sure that even the owners are not supposed to do that when you have rented out your “Airbnb”, though I doubt if we were going to report this incident.  We collected our luggage and drove the car into downtown and parked in a lot, deciding to walk everywhere.  I for one wasn’t sure that I would make it far in my condition.

"The Diag" - look at that tent

First stop was at ‘Roos Coffee’, another place that George said was better than Chicago.  The coffee wasn’t bad, and we headed towards the University area, cutting through the campus to get to our lunch destination.  This is when I learned about another great “tradition” of this football crazy town.  We were crossing through what is knows as “The Diag”, which is located in the central area of the University campus, and I saw a canopy over a big “M”, the main symbol of Michigan.  There was also a young student standing next to it and I asked George what this was all about.  Apparently, during the “rivalry” week where the football team plays the hated ‘Michigan State University’ – as next weekend – there is a risk of the other side sending over people to vandalize the logo.  This has happened in the past and now the University takes no chances by posting a guard 24 x 7.  Well, this kid looked 100 pounds soaking wet and in my opinion, wouldn’t really put up much of a resistance.  I said that it was cruel to make someone stand here for the day and sure enough, we saw a group of other kids carrying a couch to the tent.  Apparently this is quite an honor, to lounge on the couch this week.

A popular haunt of the students

We exited the campus into an area which was less sophisticated than the downtown, quite normal for places where students hang out.  We were headed to ‘Maize “N” Blue’, a popular sandwich shop.  It was a small place with a long line and was completely full.  George said that by the time we get through the line and our food, places would open, and he wasn’t kidding.  This was probably one of the slowest services for someone making just sandwiches, but it suited us, especially once we got to sit and rest.  The wall was covered with their very long menu – over 50 varieties of sandwiches – as well as another wall signed by Tom Brady, from when he played here.  To think that I was probably sitting on the same table where he used to eat lunch.  I had a simple “Tuna Melt”, which was enormous, though not as big as the one from Jersey, and not as good either.  But it was a nice meal to end the stay in Ann Arbor.

It was a pretty campus

We went back by another route, walking by some of the old buildings.  While nowhere as big as ‘Princeton’, it was a charming place.  We returned to the downtown area and after walking through what looked like a shopping mall, reached our car.  Before leaving, there was one more stop to make.  When we were planning, George had said that he would take me to a “Cider Mill”, which I thought was one of those countryside places with a stream and water wheel. I also thought that their main business was making alcoholic beverages.  Well, this was neither.  It was called ‘Dexter Cider Mill’ and they made “Apple Cider” and “Donuts”.  Dexter was a town a few miles outside of Ann Arbor and where George used to live, and it was a pretty drive to get there.  We arrived at the mill and it was nothing more than a shack.  But was a shack with a long line extending out of the parking lot.

Outstanding!

We had to drive a few blocks away to get parking and all the cars parked on the side of the road were visiting this place.  We got into the line and fortunately it was moving fast.  I was full, not to mention tired, so I got a small bottle of the cider and one donut.  George warned me that I was making a mistake and that I should probably double or even triple up.  He bought enough supplies and we decided to try this before starting our journey back.  Behind the mill was a river and lot of people had gathered there to enjoy their cider and donuts.  I tried both and I do not think I have ever had better donut than this, and I am certain that I have never had better cider.  Now I know what George meant, though I still passed over the temptation to buy more.  I could do without the sugar.

Behind the "cider mill"

We got back to our car and before leaving for Chicago, we stopped over at a “Car Wash” for George to get his car cleaned.  I haven’t been in one of these for years, not since I sold my car.  With that done, we started on our long drive back to Chicago.  Good on George for driving, for I was struggling to even speak.  It was around 7 pm when we got back, and I was looking forward to my chair.  It had been a whirlwind weekend and I had enjoyed every bit of it.  Ann Arbor is a charming town, which I probably wouldn’t have visited, if not for George and the game.  And what an experience it was.  I never understood the fascination with “tailgating” till yesterday.  To follow that in a stadium with 100 thousand plus fans was perfect.  Not to mention the good bars.  That did it for Number 49.  Two more to go.