33. Alaska - Part 2

Month: June 2017

Location: Anchorage

The mosquito infested trail

It was overcast in the morning as I walked towards the waterfront which had a walking and biking path along the ‘Tony Knowles Coastal Trail’.  When I say waterfront, it’s not like the beautiful riverfront of Pittsburgh or Chicago, but an underdeveloped property with lot of vegetation.  That means it was a mosquito infested area and I soon realized that being on a bike was a much better proposition than walking.  However, the trail is parallel to the train line and the trains passing by were indeed a spectacle.  There are few better modes of transportation than the trains in Alaska and years ago I had been fortunate to have had the opportunity to travel on one.  While most of the world has moved away from the golden age of railroad travel, Alaska still holds on to that proud tradition.

The place to be for brunch in Anchorage

The trail went on for miles, but I had other places to get to and so I returned back to the starting point and went for brunch to one of the more popular destinations called ‘Snow City Café’.  The place was full and with a long wait.  Fortunately for me I had reservations and while I waited for my table it was interesting to hear conversations of my fellow patrons, who had arrived as students from other places in the nation and had never left.  I could see why since this is a gorgeous place, though the winter months may persuade me otherwise.  After brunch I walked back to my hotel and called for my car.  It was time.

The beautiful 'Seward Highway'

With my trusted phone navigation, I drove outside the city and got on the ‘Seward Highway’ that takes one to the fantastic ‘Kenia Fjords National Park’, which I had visited last time.  As one gets outside the city, the highway runs right next to the ‘Turnagain Arm’ of the ‘Cook Inlet’ and during the times of high tide, the water is but a few meters away from the road.  Beyond that are the magnificent mountains and as the road twists and turns, it is one of the most beautiful drives anywhere in the world.  I still remember how spellbound I had been when seeing it for the first time.  I had noticed then that between the road and the water was a train line and if there ever was a reason to take the train, this was it.  My buddy I were to drive the next day to Seward and I had persuaded him to let me take the train a part of the way.  So early next morning he had dropped me off at the train station in Anchorage.  The idea was for me to take the train part of the way to a station called ‘Girdwood’, where he would pick me up.  The interior of the carriage had been quite a sight, and was nothing like one expects in a train.  It had rained all the way there and there wasn’t much I could see outside.  But whatever I had seen, had been enough.

A tale of 2 pictrues

As I approached my exit, I looked out and spotted a small road going towards the ‘Girdwood Station’.  Back when I had arrived by the train, I was surprised to see that the station was nothing more than a shack.  And I had no phone service.  Clearly I hadn’t thought this through.  Fortunately a gentleman had seen my predicament and given me a ride to a nearby gas station area which had a few shops.  One of those had been a place called ‘Alpine Bakery’.  I had a “Cake Doughnut” and Latte while waiting for my buddy and had even taken a picture of those.  I pulled into that gas station and found the bakery and ordered the exact same things as last time.  I took another picture and put them side by side to show to the barista.  I am a sucker for revisiting memories and this was a good one.  With the backdrop of the mountains, how could it not be?

Going up the trolley

About 3 miles away was ‘Alyeska Resort’, a high-end hotel, from where you could take a trolley up into the mountains.  Years ago when I had first come here, I had been mesmerized right from the moment I had stepped on board that trolley and all through my time on the mountain.  It had been the single most unique experience of my life and the most beautiful sight that I had ever seen in nature.  I parked my car and walked up the path towards the resort, which looked like it was preparing for a wedding.  I got a ticket for the trolley – which I felt was a bit expensive – and then rode it up to the peak.  It was amazing to see the resort get smaller, though it wasn't just that.  All around me, some of the more spectacular vistas were emerging.  On one side were glacier capped mountains and on the other side was a view of the ‘Cook Inlet’.  Adventurous people can also reach the top via a trail and I saw a few hikers on a narrow path.  The trolley was full of people as well as a cart of food products for the exclusive fine dining restaurant on the top.  Well, if we were to be stranded up there, at least we wouldn’t go hungry!

At the top of 'Mount Alyeska'

As we emerged on the top, the ground at certain places was covered by snow.  Plus it was uneven in places, which combined with the high altitude and the cliff edges gave one a sense of vertigo.  But there was no denying the fact that such views are just not seen every day…well unless you are working at the restaurant I suppose.  I walked around a bit, being tentative around the edge, though there were a few brave souls who were tempting fate in exchange for a good picture opportunity.  The wedding party was here as well and some of them were also carrying bottles of beer, which would not be the wisest strategy next to a cliff.  One of my favorite things about this place had been a gift shop with an outdoor 360 degree balcony that gave the visitor the best views of the valley.  Back when I had come here, I had chatted with the shopkeeper and had even purchased a “Goodnight Alaska” children’s book.  I found that they still had the book, but the shopkeeper was gone.

The breathtaking view

I could have stayed here forever, and I did walk around the balcony several times, before deciding it was time to go back down.  With a final look around me, I entered the outgoing trolley and began my journey back.  This is a place which is truly mesmerizing, one which you may not think about for years.  But then one night you dream about it and all the memories come back.  Visiting Alaska is not the easiest thing to do, especially with the long travel.  So it is unlikely that I will pick Anchorage again for my next trip here.  But I do have a feeling that an indescribable longing for this place will bring me back someday.  I know I will return.

On the shore of 'Portage Lake'

People have a fascination with glaciers, which can only be understood once you have seen one.  A few miles away was ‘Portage Lake’, where resided ‘Portage Glacier’.  I drove to the lake and by the time I arrived at the “Visitor’s Center” it had turned into a gorgeous afternoon with clear skies complimenting the crystal blue lake.  I learnt that there were several options open for me, including a couple of hikes or I could take a 1 hour cruise to see the main glacier.  I decided to do the cruise and was told that I could get my ticket on board the ferry. Since there was some time to spare, I decided to do one of the shorter hikes which led to a viewing area for another of the glaciers.  However, after a while I realized that there wasn’t enough time to go to that viewing area and be back on time to catch the ferry. So I abandoned the trail and rushed back and drove to the pickup point.

Approaching the glacier

The ferry was docked and at 4:30 pm they let us on board.  We were all assembled on the top deck and it was very pleasant as we set off.  There was a lady providing commentary and pointing out some of the sights.  The thing I found fascinating was how one loses a sense of scale in Alaska and things which appear closer and smaller are actually further away and a lot larger.  This was evident from a beach, which looked like it was only accessible by a canoe.  There were people over there that looked like ants when seen against the backdrop of the mountains.  I also saw a few dogs there, though I have no idea how they made it there in a canoe!

Beats having to fight someone
for a spot on the plank!

As we got closer to the glacier, it started looking more imposing and the blue color that every glacier reflects could now been seen clearly.  Plus there were icebergs in the water and while there was no chance of us going down as ‘Titanic’, I could still hear them knocking against the side!  The crew was volunteering to take pictures and so I posed against the glacier while wearing a flotation ring!  Glaciers are a marvel of nature and the fact that they are disappearing is both alarming and sad.  In fact, this one has receded quite a bit over the last few decades and there were pictures on board showing that.  We were on the way back and no one had come to collect my money for the ticket.  So I went downstairs and asked a crew member who was surprised that I did not already have a ticket, complaining about their lax policies.  I agreed with him since I could have easily sailed for free and I wondered if there were others doing that.

A stop at 'Midnight Sun Brewery'

We docked and then began my long drive back to Anchorage, though I did not mind because of the scenery.  I wanted to make a stop on the way at a place called ‘Midnight Sun Brewery’.  This was another of Alaska's craft breweries, and a famous one at that.  I had stopped here the last time and it had been a hidden place in an isolated alley.  As I parked the car it all came back to me and it was just the way I remembered it.  I got a small beer and then headed back to the hotel for the rest of my evening.  I wasn’t planning on going to multiple places and so just had a drink in my hotel before heading out for my final dinner in Anchorage.

The view of Sun that refuses to set

Popular opinion was that ‘Simon & Seaforts’ was the place to go for food while here.  It is a restaurant close to the waterfront, and I got seated at a table with a nice view.  There were 2 things that I absolutely wanted to try before leaving and this place had them.  One of them was “King Crab” and while I have always been intimidated of handling such items in the past, I just had to do it.  I was glad that I did, because it was as good as advertised, and besides a few blisters on my fingers, I did not embarrass myself in front of the other diners.  Now there was just one thing remaining.

"Baked Alaska" in Alaska

I had been fortunate in my childhood to have been exposed to various cuisines and dining experiences.  Some of my earliest memories were of this one place that we used to visit, where they capped each meal by rolling out a dessert cart.  But one day they brought out this amazing creation which was set on fire in front of us and after the flames had subsided, the server cut into the item to reveal a still frozen ice cream underneath.  How was that even possible?  Although at that age I had no idea what Alaska was or where it existed, a dessert bearing its name quickly became one of the most anticipated items on the menu for me and my mom and we always scanned the menu to see if a restaurant served it.  There was no way that I would ever leave Alaska without having “Baked Alaska” and this version came with “Fireweed ice cream’, which you cannot get anywhere else.  As the sun tried to set late at night, I had accomplished everything that I had set out to do.

Till I return

There wasn’t much anything remaining for next morning, and so I decided to head to the airport early.  I was connecting through Seattle and had a 45 minute layover, with a terminal change.  This was making me nervous, but I decided to put my faith in the hands of the airlines.  I dropped off my rental car and as I passed through the security, I noticed that there was an earlier flight to Seattle, which would give me some extra time before my next one.  So I asked and to my pleasant surprise, they had a seat for me.  However, this flight was running behind schedule and so there were a few people who were sweating on their connections.  As soon as we landed, they rushed out and in the haste, one of them grabbed my bag instead.  Fortunately they realized that and were waiting on the ramp for me, but now would have to wait till everyone deplaned before going back in.  Well, sometimes haste can backfire.

That was the only drama though and I got back home as anticipated.  This was one of the 2 big trips that I would be doing as part of these travels.  But it was so much more than that.  I had really wanted to return back to Anchorage and 'Mount Alyeska' in particular. Perhaps I wanted to confirm that I had not dreamt of it, and that it really does exist.  And now that I am back home, I want to return.  I guess that’s how it always goes.

33. Alaska - Part 1

Month: June 2017

Location: Anchorage

When I had started this, I arranged each of the 51 destinations into 8 Zones.  “Zone 8” was labeled as “Outer” and it had just 2 States in it – Alaska and Hawaii.  I had avoided them so far – due to the distance, time and expense – but with States running out, it was time to choose one of these.  It was a given that a visit to Alaska would have to be during the narrow summer window of June to August, and that decision would have to be made way ahead of time if I was to get a good deal.  So back in August of last year I spent an evening booking an expensive flight to Anchorage, pre-paying for a hotel room and luckily booking a car at the right moment before those prices went up – seriously, they did increase minutes later.

All aboard!

I had been to Alaska a few years ago, to Anchorage in fact, and so I did consider a different destination.  I have always found Juneau to be fascinating, being the only Capital city with no roads coming in and out.  But there had been something magical about my previous visit to Anchorage.  With its overcast weather and slight mist in the air, there is a dreamlike vibe to the place.  And it’s the kind of dream that you want to go back to.  I had an early morning flight and thankfully it was a direct one from Chicago to Anchorage.  That also meant that it was a long one.  However ‘Alaskan Airlines’ offered a suite of free movies that one could view on their laptop.  Plus there were power outlets under the seats and that made it convenient.  So the 6+ hours flew by – pun intended – and I looked outside the window to see a familiar sight from years ago, as the plane made its approach over the ‘Cook Inlet’ and landed in an overcast Anchorage.

Starting at 'Jen's Restaurant'

I had rented a car since I wanted to take a small trip outside of town – more on that later.  I could have gone to my hotel and checked in, but my priorities are clear when I visit places and on the top of the list is eating at places that are highly recommended.  So I drove straight to a place called ‘Jen’s Restaurant’, which was located in a “strip mall”.  As I settled in on the bar counter top, I noticed a lot of champagne bottles being displayed, though I stuck to food since I was driving.  They offered some traditional “Danish” dishes with impeccable service and it was a worthy start to my culinary adventures in Alaska.

The main room of 'Alaska Museum of Science & Nature'

There were a couple of museums that I wanted to visit in the afternoon and both were outside the downtown area.  So rather than driving to the hotel to drop off my bag and then getting into the car again, I decided that the check-in could wait.  I had given myself 90 minutes in ‘Alaska Museum of Science & Nature’ and it took me all of 20 minutes to get through the exhibits, which weren’t bad.  The lady at the counter was extremely friendly and warned me that a lot of kids were on their way for an excursion.  I said that I would stay out of their way, though with the small place and their noisy enthusiasm, I was well aware of their presence.  There were some examples of Alaskan wild life, including a colossal ‘King Crab’.  There was also an interesting piece on the Alaskan earthquake on 1964, but even with all of these, I was soon done and on my way to the next stop.

The "Alaska Native Games" were in progress

A few miles away was the ‘Alaska Native Heritage Center’ and I was pleased to have navigation guiding me because it wasn’t the easiest to find.  After following a winding road, I reached the center and as I got out of the car, there was a definite chill in the air.  The lady mentioned that there was an “Alaska Native Games” demonstration in progress on the main stage.  There was also a talk on “Introduction to Alaska Native Cultures” a bit later as well as “Alaska Native Heritage Center Dance”.  I went to see the “games” and there were some youth demonstrating incredible feats of athleticism and concentration.  One particular exercise was tying a ball on a string and then doing a standing kick to touch the ball, which was quite high.  They told us about the significance of these games in the native culture and how generations have been doing this.  In fact, one of the young men introduced his mother in the audience and how she used to participate in these when she was his age.  It was a great demonstration and showcased how much the natives value traits of focus and discipline.

The "village" at the back of the center

There was short break before the next program and so I walked about the center and saw the galleries which were organized by cultures of different tribes.  Alaska is a huge state, which if superimposed on the “lower 48”, would stretch from Florida to California.  The galleries showed the visitors the different parts of the state where the tribes were located and some of them are quite inhospitable areas.  There was an outdoor area spread around a pond and which had models of native dwellings.  There was going to be a guided tour of this “village” in 30 minutes and I preferred to do that rather than watch the dance program.  I did however attend the talk on Native Cultures, as a young lady told us about the different tribes and their locations and life in general.  The amount of information that I gathered during this talk made me glad to have come here and I was now looking forward to the tour.

Inside one of the dwellings

I went to the meeting spot and soon one of the youth who had been doing the games demonstration came over.  He would be the guide for this tour and we set off outside, it was now colder than I had expected.  But considering what we learned about the living conditions of the natives, no one should be complaining.  Each tribal region was represented in terms of their dwellings, which were minimalist and in most cases, underground.  Staying warm was the priority, especially in far north where even the summers are cold and harsh, let alone winters.  We were shown some of the items that they used in their houses, most made from animal parts.  The natives believe that no part of the animal should be wasted and everything was utilized, including things like stomachs as storage bags.  Seals were the main creatures being hunted, though some tribes are the only people who have a “whaling” license, being allowed to hunt 2-3 whales a year.  And when that happens, it is a big deal for the entire village and the community since it literally feeds everyone for months.  The stories were different in each of the model dwellings, each adding to the rich heritage and culture of the natives of that region; and serving as a lesson in survival.  And to think some folks get mad because their bus is late by a minute!

Downtown Anchorage

I drove back into downtown and towards my hotel, which was on the main street, though the entrance for cars was on the backside.  After some confusion I found the driveway and handed my car to the valet.  I have been having some luck with hotels and this one was no exception.  At the reception I learnt that I was in “Tower 3”, meaning there were 2 others!  Plus the trek to my elevator took me all over the hotel and I saw enough retail shops for this place to qualify as a mall!  I dropped off my bags in my room and then set off for the evening.  It was chilly, though luckily dry.  Thankfully the streets had numbers and letters, meaning navigating my way would be easy.  Getting into places, well, that may prove to be a challenge.

The secret "phone booth"

I was going to bar called ‘Blues Central’ which was located inside a hotel.  However, what made this one interesting was the process required to get in.  First, one had to locate an old fashioned telephone booth.  Then if a blue light was on, you could pick up the receiver and dial a number, upon which the person at the other end told you if there was any room.  If there was, then you were given a password and told to come upstairs.  Now that’s what I call a “speakeasy”!  It opened at 5 pm and it was approaching 20 minutes past the hour as I rushed there.  I had to ask some folks in the hotel and was told where the phone booth was located.  I saw that the light was on and so dialed the number.  The voice at the other end said “Ricky James”, which I guess was the password for this evening.  Then I went upstairs, hoping to see a sign.  But there wasn’t one and I was now in a hallway with several unmarked doors.  I had no idea which one to knock on.  At the end I saw a red door and to my surprise it was open.  It was also the side entry to the bar. So much for the password!

The fantastic 'Blues Central'

It was a typical “speakeasy”, dark and cozy, with a long bar.  It was also quite empty.  I sat at the bar and chatted with the mixologist, exchanging stories about some of our favorite places nationwide.  Soon the place started filling up and as is usually the case, I struck up a conversation with my fellow patrons, both locals and visitors.  I mentioned that I would be in NYC soon and a range of choices for cocktail bars were presented, and the bartender even showed me some books on those bars.  He certainly knew what he was doing and made a cocktail for me which involved a show with fire!  The locals seemed to be regulars and I was the beneficiary of his friendliness with them, being the recipient of some complimentary shots.  This certainly was a fantastic bar and a worthy addition to the list of places that I have visited.

The Champagnes of  'The Bubbly Mermaid Oyster Bar'

It was bright outside and after getting my bearings I set off for a place that some of my fellow revelers had recommended, ‘The Bubbly Mermaid Oyster Bar’.  It was a very small place, with a central bar around which many people had been crammed. But there was something cute about it, and all around us were bottles of Champagne; lots of bottles of Champagne.  If there ever was a “dive bar” for luxury items, this would be it.  I ordered a glass and some oysters and just soaked in the ambiance.  Next, I went over to a place called ‘Haute Quarter Grill’ prior to my dinner reservation.  It was a nice evening, still bright, and people had come out to enjoy that.  I was going to a place called ‘Glacier Brewhouse’ which looked like a typical beer hall.  I remembered this place from my previous visit and it was as crowded as before.  Its funny how years later you return back to a place and it seems familiar.  Alaska is known for its beer and seafood and these folks do an excellent job with both.  I had a great time here and a perfect end to my first night in Alaska.  And I use the word night loosely since there was still light outside.

It was a hazy morning

I had an early morning wake-up call because I was going on a tour of Anchorage.  I was getting picked up at the hotel, but didn’t know at which entrance.  I waited next to one and then the other, but there was no sign of my crew. They were supposed to arrive at 8 am, and had asked me to wait there since 7:45.  I called and left a message, and then got a call back where the driver said that he was caught in the morning traffic.  He told me to wait at the entrance with the “bus pickup” and there were several buses waiting for dozens of travelers, some of whom looked like they were preparing to go hike a glacier.  My van arrived and I climbed inside to see that there were already 6 others besides the driver, who would also be the guide.  I was sitting next to a gentleman who was visiting from North Dakota and had previously lived in Chicagoland.  He also looked like a serious photographer since while the rest of us were using our phones, he had a real camera.

The great earthquake of  1964

We started at a downtown building which told the story of the 1964 earthquake with maps and pictures and showed the destruction that had occurred.  After some time over here we got back in the van and our guide took us on a drive just outside of downtown, through one of the more affluent neighborhoods in the city.  The houses were gorgeous, including one which was built underground and the roof was a part of the garden.  Being a native, he was telling us about Anchorage from their perspective, including the time before and after Alaska became a State.  One of the stories was the US scrambling to get the native land when oil was discovered up in the North.  That led to the ‘Great Alaskan Pipeline’ being built all the way down to Valdez and they managed to get that done in record time through some inhospitable terrain.  Just goes to show nothing is insurmountable when money is at stake!

There are plenty of these in Alaska

Our guide was extremely motivated to find some Moose, so much so that he even told us to chant “Moose-Moose-Moose”.  Oh boy!  We drove to a park which presented a nice view of downtown and the mountains in the distance.  In fact, on a clear day you could even see ‘Mount Denali’.  The problem was the mosquito population of Alaska which is waiting to feast on you.  So we didn't spend a lot of time outside, taking some pictures and continuing our search of the elusive Moose.  Alaska has the most number of pilots per capita and most of those are sea planes, not surprising considering that a majority of Alaska cannot be accessed any other way.  Our guide took us to a nearby lake which serves as some sort of an “airfield” and I have never seen so many planes anywhere – and I don’t mean small planes in a field.  I mean planes anywhere, including big airports.  We took some pictures before the mosquito’s came after us and then it was back to the van.

This is at a hospital!

Our next stop was ‘Alaska Native Medical Center’, which our guide said was a state-of-the-art medical facility to rival any in the nation.  Plus it provided a free service to the natives.  It was also said to house some of the best native artifacts collection and we were going to see that.  We arrived at the hospital and it was like any other medical facility, with patients and doctors going about their daily tasks.  We took an elevator to the 4^th floor and in the lobby near the stairwell were display showcases, each housing native objects.  We were told to go down the stairs to the bottom floor and on our way we would see different displays on each floor.  It was a good collection that any museum would be proud to own and the fact that it was in a hospital was impressive.  I’m sure that it does bring cheer to all who are undergoing treatment.

The World's tallest "Chocolate Waterfall"

We spent some time here and then got back on the van to head to ‘Alaska Wild Berry Products’, which was a store selling all sorts of chocolate and candy products, along with boxed Salmon and other souvenirs.  While this was a well-known brand of products, what made this store special was that it housed the World’s tallest “Chocolate Waterfall”.  Really, there was a 20 foot chocolate fall inside the store like some real life “Willy Wonka Factory”.  Everyone posed for some pictures next to the fall and then started exploring the store.  There were long counters with display cases full of candy and chocolate truffles, including “triple dipped marshmallow” which I just had to get.  There were also long glass windows behind which we could see the candies being made.  This meant that everything in front of us was as fresh as it can get, though I refrained from buying any.  I did however sample some of their unique ice cream flavors before leaving for our next destination.

On the way to 'The Ulu Factory'

Our guide said that we were going to make a bonus stop at a place called ‘Alaska Sausage and Seafood’ which sold, well, sausages and cured smoked seafood.  They also offered some samples of their products, though “Reindeer Sausage” is not really something that I was keen on.  We tasted a few of their Salmon and Halibut and then left for our final stop, which was ‘The Ulu Factory’.  I had no idea what an “Ulu” was till I came here.  It is a curved knife that the Natives use and is supposed to be very versatile in its use.  I try to stay away from all sharp objects if I can, meaning it certainly wasn’t anything that I would be purchasing.  Our guide left us at the factory and said that we could take a free shuttle back to downtown. After watching a brief demonstration of the instrument, I said goodbye to my fellow travelers and got on the shuttle.

At the 'Anchorage Museum'

I was planning to go to the ‘Anchorage Museum’, but I had left my phone charging cable in the hotel and so rushed back to get it, before making the cross-downtown trek to the museum.  I had just enough time to get lunch before a guided tour, though it would have to be in the Museum Café.  Well, that café turned out be a full-fledged restaurant and a fantastic one at that.  I went over to the tour meeting area and saw that I was the only one there besides our guide.  That didn’t last for long and by the time the tour started, we had a big group.  This was one of the better museums that I have seen and the gallery that we started in was very impressive.  It had individual displays for the different native tribes – similar to what I had seen yesterday.  It was nice to hear stories from this guide’s perspective and to learn about the various artifacts.  After the tour I walked about the rest of the museum, including an exhibit called “Polar Bear’s Garden”, which is the narrow strait between Russia and the US.  This was not just an art museum, but also had some interactive exhibits for kids as well as a “Planetarium”.  I attended a show on “Northern Lights” and when I left, most of the afternoon was still available to me.

The fantastic map inside the 'Visitor's Center'

I stopped at a mall in downtown, which was like any other mall that one can find in any other town.  I stopped at one of the 2 ‘Visitor’s Center’, though one had to go through a security screening to rival an airport! The guards mentioned that besides being a visitor’s center, this was also a functioning Government building and thus the precautions.  Well, considering that I had walked through the 'Utah State Capitol’ last month without any check’s, I still considered it a bit excessive; but to each their own.  They had various stations and I stopped by at one saying ‘Alaskan Railroad’ for some information, which comprised of them giving me a brochure and asking me to direct questions directly to the railroad.  So much for getting help here!  They also had something that looked like a small museum, though the highlight of this place - and which makes it worth visiting - is a giant map of Alaska, showing its topography.  It is mounted on the floor and the visitors can walk around it, absorbing in the scale of the State. That’s exactly what I did for the duration of my visit.

My evening's agenda

Clearly I wasn’t going to learn much over here, and so I walked across the road to the 2^nd visitor’s center which was much smaller, a lot friendlier and did not have a security screening.  I obtained some information on ‘Portage Glacier’, which isn’t too far from the place I am visiting tomorrow.  As I started walking back towards my hotel, I passed by several souvenir shops that are lined along the main street, each of them full of all the things that souvenir seekers are looking for.  All I got there was a bottle of water and then it was onward to my room for a brief respite before heading out for the evening, which would be similar to last night.

On to the next one

I wasn’t going too far for my first stop, which was a bar in my hotel called ‘Fletcher’s’, and it looked like an Irish saloon.  From there it was a short walk through the hotel lobby for another place called ‘Whale’s Tail’, where I got a drink called “Alaska Night Starter”, which was quite appropriate.  I emerged from my hotel and went down the main street – which had its evening buzz – and to a place called ‘Ginger’, who are doing some interesting things with food and drink within a modern eclectic place.  The following stop however was a complete opposite of this and as old school as possible, with dark interiors and dark corners where mob deals may be going down.  Called ‘Paris Club’, this is one of Anchorage’s more iconic restaurants, and a popular spot with locals and tourists alike. 

The absolutely charming 'Marx Bros Cafe'

As with any other visit, I had spent some time researching places for dining and one name that had popped up in several lists was ‘Marx Bros Café’.  Now, having seen and enjoyed Marx Brothers movies, I wasn’t sure how that would lend itself towards dining, but everything about it looked intriguing.  The restaurant was located inside a house, meaning different rooms would function as dining areas.  I have had some great experiences in such places and this one was no exception.  The food was great, the service impeccable and I even saw a gentleman make tableside “Caesar’s Salad” - an art form from a forgotten era.  I came back to my hotel after a nice evening, but there was one more thing that I wanted to do tonight.  On the top of one of the towers is the hotels signature restaurant, ‘Crow’s Nest’.  It was late and the dinner service was winding down, though one couldn’t tell looking at the bright skies outside the window.  And what a sight in all directions; overlooking the ‘Cook Inlet’, the mountains and of course the city of Anchorage.  I could have stayed there all night, but with or without the sunlight, they needed to close and so I returned back to my room.  Tomorrow I would be visiting some of the ghosts from the past and the only reason why I was paying for a car which I hadn’t even used today.

To Be Continued...

32. Utah

Month: May 2017

Location: Salt Lake City

For everyone who believes that all the people they meet are inherently good, well I have news for them.  You will meet some awful people in your life and perhaps even be let down by those whom you trust; making you question your beliefs.  For all those people, I suggest they visit Salt Lake City to know that for every disappointment, there is hope.

One of the best approaches to a city

One of the best decisions that I made was to come to Salt Lake City during daytime, because the approach from the air is just spectacular.  The city and its vicinity – which looks lush green from the air – are cradled inside a valley, surrounded by ice-capped mountains on all sides.  It truly is a gorgeous sight.  I took a cab to my hotel and as soon as I arrived, I knew that this was going to be good.  I don’t know how I had managed to get the deal that I did, but ‘The Grand America Hotel’ looked as luxurious as hotels get.  Not only was it the tallest building in the neighborhood, it was splendid on the inside, with sprawling hallways and high ceilings.  It was one of the fanciest hotels that I have stayed in during these travels.  But there was more to come.

My fantastic hotel

Typically, the “check-in” for all hotels is at 3 pm, whereas I tend to show up much earlier than that.  However, only once have I been turned away for arriving early.  Today was the second time, though they did say that another room was available, but would be $50 a day extra.  Well, I wasn’t paying that and so told the lady at the desk that I would be back later and asked if there was place that I could leave my bag for the day.  As I was taking out some of the critical things like batteries etc., another lady asked me if everything was okay.  I told her that my room wasn’t ready, or rather that there was a room, but they didn’t want to give it to me without an extra charge.  She told me to wait and then went over to have a chat with reception.  Very soon, I was offered not only the room, but also “chocolate chip” cookies.

And that's my terrace!

The first unique thing was that I was given a key – not a key card – as means of entry.  The entry to the room itself was through 2 sets of doors and when I say room, I mean a suite, with a large terrace – not a balcony, a terrace.  Plus the view was that of the mountains.  Not too shabby at all.  I came down and explored the hotel before going out and it had all sorts of amenities, including a shopping area which had a toy store and a “French Patisserie”.  I got my bearings and set off for my brunch at a place called ‘Pig and A Jelly Jar’.  Salt Lake City is organized as a grid with every block being numbered by the 100’s on all 4 sides.  So as far as navigation is concerned, it should not be a difficult proposition, but I still took a couple of wrong turns.  It was a nice day and with the backdrop of the mountains, it was a pleasant walk for the 1 mile that I had to cover to get to the restaurant.  It was a local place which was not too big, though their portions certainly were.

The "Flight" exhibit at 'The Leonardo Museum'

Being well fed, I set off for the afternoon and the first stop was a place called ‘The Leonardo Museum’. The museum describes itself as a place where visitors can explore the connection between science, technology, art and creativity and so naturally, I was curious.  The first level had an exhibit called “Flight”, which was all about the history of man’s quest to fly, with a lot of information on the Physics behind it, as well as a giant plane through which people could walk through.  I saw a few families in there and the kids seemed more interested in things that they could touch rather than reading about the pioneers of aviation.  It was a good exhibit, much more elaborate than the one I saw in Wichita last month, which had been more locally focused.  The second floor was where things were more interactive and there were several activities that one could do such as testing your brain, eyes, hearing etc.  One particular demonstration was where you put on a headphone and tried to speak into a microphone while your voice was fed back to you through those headphones.  It is one of the most disorienting feelings that someone can have.  There were other creative ways of teaching kids about our senses as well as exhibits on aliens and astronomy.  I for one was impressed.  As far as the “art” component was concerned, along the walkway between floors, there were some fascinating sculptures and hangings made out of a material that looked like paper, but was responsive to stimuli.  I am sure I studied this in my past life as a scientist.

The sparse exhibits of the 'Utah Museum of Contemporary Art'

Next door to the museum is the ‘Salt Lake City Public Library’ and it was an impressive building, built into what looked like a small shopping arcade. What made it attractive was the architecture, which allowed for a lot of natural light to come in.  I walked through the building briefly and then proceed towards ‘Utah Museum of Contemporary Art’, which was a bit of a walk, but with the numbered streets, wouldn’t be too difficult to locate. I did find the place and it was…well, small.  There were 2 halls with sparse exhibits and the entry was on a “suggested donation” basis.  I was the only visitor in there and after a short stop; I was done with my museum related activities for the day.  Now it was time for the main event.

The evening commenced

I had planned visits to some cocktail places and in fact had a list.  But since I was done way ahead of time, I stopped at a place which I had seen earlier, called ‘Bourbon House’, and I guess the name gives it away.  I walked down to the basement level and into a place which was just as a Bourbon saloon should be - wooden interiors and full of whiskey.  There was some “Kentucky Derby” related stuff going on TV and I heard the locals discuss the derby which was tomorrow.  I had a cocktail there and left for my next place which was nearby, called ‘Whiskey Street Cocktails and Dining’ – a definite theme was emerging this evening!  Before coming over here, I had discussed with one of my colleagues, who knew the city, about the more “temperate” culture that people in Utah have towards drinking.  Well, based on the crowd and the number of drinking establishments that I saw, that theory was definitely out of the window!

Continuing...

‘Whiskey Street Cocktails’ was very different than the earlier establishment, being less stuffy and more open, leading to a vibrant ambiance.  Plus, based on the quality of the drink that I had, these folks certainly knew their cocktails.  As I emerged from this place, twilight had taken over and with the backdrop of the mountains; the place had assumed an enchanting environment.  It was without a doubt a wonderful evening to be outside.  The next place was on a side street, though there was nothing secretive about it.  Called ‘Good Grammar’, it had a lot of people in there celebrating “Cinco de Mayo”, which I had forgotten was today.

...And then some!

I stayed there for a brief while and then continued on to the next place – as can be seen; I had done my homework and mapped everything out.  It was called ‘Under Current’, and when I arrived there, I saw a dining room, but no bar.  Upon inquiring, I learnt that this place was called ‘Current’ and the place I was looking for was next door – though I would have thought it would be in the basement since it was called “Under Current”.  As I sat at the bar, the gentleman next to me told me that the bartender was the best in the city when it came to “craft cocktails” and looking at the menu, I believed him.  I struck up a conversation with the folks next to me, so much so that I was invited to a birthday party later that evening.  Another successful visit, making friends with the locals!

The fantastic view from 'The Roof Restaurant'

The next stop was a place called ‘Bar-X’ and walking towards that place; I saw that the city had truly come alive with a lot of people sitting outside enjoying the weather.  The interior was more like a “dive bar”, but the cocktail was fantastic.  I still had some time to kill before my dinner reservations and so stopped at a place called ‘Beehive Pub’ for a local brew and was pleased to see something that all brewpubs shout adopt – an ice line where one can place the beer glass to keep it chilled.  I had seen it before and find it to be a brilliant convenience.  I came out of the pub just as it was getting darker and continued to one of the tallest buildings in downtown, the top of which had a restaurant named, well, ‘The Roof Restaurant’. As I had looked for places to eat, this was a name that had come up in several lists.  The catch was that this was a buffet place and I am not too keen on that.  However, the promised that this wasn’t your regular buffet, with the quality of the food being top class, especially their dessert bar.  Plus, they promised that this would be one of the best views of the city.

It was a beautiful night

I took the elevator to the roof and was seated, not quite at the window, but close to it.  And yes, the view was fantastic; not just because of the mountains in the distance, but also because what was closest to us, the ‘Mormon Temple’.  It is by far the most impressive building in the city, with magnificent architecture, accentuated by the lighting that shown upon it during nighttime. It gave the building a surreal look and as I was gazing at it, I struck up a conversation with a couple next to me and we talked about my visit and they gave me some pointers.  The dinner was really good and the desserts, as advertised, were great.  The server kept pointing out that there were two stations – on either side of the piano player – and each had different selections.  I was lucky to sample some from a single side and then after a walk around the dining hall to see some of the other sights – like the ‘Capitol’, it was time to leave.  Since it was a beautiful night, I walked back to my hotel, passing by some of the drinking establishments which were full of folks for whom the evening was just getting underway.  I arrived at my hotel and as much as I wanted to stay for a nightcap, I was tired and so went up to my huge room, to find that the maid had left “macaroons” on my pillow.  Some places leave mints, this place does French pastry!

At 'Publik Coffee Roasters'

The next morning I stepped out on the terrace to enjoy my “macaroons” against the backdrop of the mountains.   Not a bad start to the day.  One of the things that I seek out is a good coffee shop and the one that came up in my search was called ‘Publik Coffee Roasters’.  I decided to walk to the location closest to my hotel and it was away from downtown and in a small lot which looked abandoned.  But inside a building that looked like storage facility was a coffee shop that seemed popular with the locals.  I took my “mocha” and went to the upper level which had several people as well.  Considering that this place was off the beaten path, it was impressive to the see the draw.

What a location!

The place that I had picked for brunch was called ‘Ruth’s Diner’, which was located in a canyon in the mountains.  This meant a nice ride to get there and I talked with my ‘Uber’ driver about living here and the places around the city.  The restaurant was full and as I waited, I admired the view, which gave me a feeling of being in a lodge within a “National Park”.  The interior was cozy and soon after I was seated, the brought me their famous “Mile High Biscuit” which in itself was well worth the visit.  I asked for a “Bloody Mary” and the server looked at her watch and I almost said “Its 5 O’clock somewhere”, when she responded that they start serving cocktails at 11 am.  Considering it was just 10 minutes away, I told her that I could survive till then and after placing my order, soaked in my surroundings which were extremely charming.

The gorgeous 'Red Butte Gardens'

After brunch I called an ‘Uber’ to go towards my next destination, which was ‘Natural History Museum of Utah’.  I arrived there just after 12 pm and learned that a guided tour of the museum had just departed.  The next one was going to be at 2 pm and I wanted to attend that.  So I asked them if there was anything that I could do for the next 2 hours and they told me to go to the nearby ‘Red Butte Gardens’.  I walked over to that building and was given a map which was quite good since it showed the path that a visitor should follow.  I set off on that and for next hour and a bit roamed those beautiful gardens, which wasn’t the worst way to spend some time.

The "solar terrace" at the museum

I came back to the museum and was presented with a fancy lanyard since I was going on a tour.  There was some kid’s related activity going on in the museum today and so it was crowded.  There was still some time before the tour started and so I walked about the museum, especially the outdoor terrace with its array of solar panels – though I beat a hasty retreat from a path when I saw the sign, “Beware of Rattlesnakes”.  I arrived at the meeting point and talked with the tour guide who appeared to be a nice chap.  We waited for others but soon it was apparent that I was the only person on the tour and so with the elaborate lanyard around my neck, we set off.

A typical hall inside a "Natural History" museum

We started with one of the more interesting things in the museum.  I had previously seen projections of trees on the walls and which are interactive when someone’s shadow interrupts the projection.  This one was similar, but my guide told me that the tree was also indicative of the external weather and so swayed more when it was windy and shed leaves during fall.  Now that’s creative.  The museum is quite modern and the architecture reflects that.  We walked through the different galleries, including the “Native American” exhibit as well as a “Dinosaur Hall”. He also told me about the actual lake after which this city is named and how its extreme salinity means that very lifeforms exist in it.  Before visiting the city I had inquired if the lakefront had been developed as a commercial real estate with restaurants and promenade.  Not so much!

Inside the 'Pioneer Memorial Musuem'

The skies were threatening when I left and took an ‘Uber’ to the ‘Pioneer Memorial Museum’, which is known to house the world’s largest collection of artifacts on one subject – the pioneers who settled in Salt Lake City.  As I checked in, a nice lady have me a map of the various rooms and boy, were they full of stuff!  There were 3 floors and a basement, as well as an adjunct space of two floors and they were full of artifacts.  So much so that it reminded me of one of those stores which has vintage things in various corners.  I explored as much as I could, without processing a lot and left after thanking the lady.  While it is an amazing place, there's just too much going on.

The incredible interior of the 'Capitol'

Right next door is the ‘Capitol Building’ and like the ones that I have seen in other cities, the grounds around the building were fantastic.  But nothing prepared me for the interior.  This was one of the most beautiful places that I have been in, let alone a government building.  In fact if someone would have said to me that this was the main room of a palace, I would have believed them.  With marble pillars and ornate paintings on the wall, I was glad that the building was open despite this being a Saturday.  For any visitor coming here, this should be a required stop.  The view outside the building wasn’t too shabby either.  It’s on the top of a hill, meaning one got a beautiful vista of the downtown and the mountains in the background.  The skies looked a bit threatening and so I hurried along to my next stop.

The view on my walk

As mentioned earlier, navigation in the city is easy owing to the numbering system in all 4 directions.  I had asked earlier on how they determine where “East” turns to “West” and “North” to “South”, and was told that the Temple is considered to be the center of the city and so all roads literally lead towards it.  This meant that as long as you had that in sight, you would probably find it difficult to get lost.  As I passed through the “Temple Gardens”, I noticed that there was a lot to see here and I thought about stopping by tomorrow morning.  The city was also hosting a “NBA playoff game” for their beloved “Utah Jazz” and as I passed by the arena, I saw a large crowd waiting to get inside.  Tonight would not be ideal to stay out too late.

Another "Escape Room"

I arrived at an outdoor multi-level mall and this always makes finding a place difficult.  Continuing on my travel tradition, I was going to an “Escape Room”, this time with a "pirate" theme.  As always, I was joined by a group who had come together, though this time I could feel that the vibe wasn’t as great as has been in other places.  The first mishap was when we were sent to a room to wait and didn’t know what to do.  So we opened some doors and then realized that the actor who was supposed to guide us wasn’t even there.  So we came out and went back in once they were ready.  After a brief introduction we were led into a dimly lit room which was supposed to be the pirates’ lair.  The lighting made it extremely difficult to solve the puzzles, which weren’t that easy – we had to use the same prop for two separate puzzles, which I felt wasn’t fair.  Plus our chemistry was off and it wasn’t a surprise that we failed miserably – my first failure after a moderately successful run of late.

A nightcap in 'Gibson Lounge'

I left immediately after the picture and headed to a cocktail place called ‘The Red Door’.  There wasn’t anyone there besides me and another couple, though it looked like a live music place that could get full at night.  I left after a drink and went a place beside it, called ‘Lake Effect’.  Now this was more like it.  The chairs were comfortable, the drinks splendid and the bartenders friendly.  My dinner stop was a place called ‘Pallet’, which was around the corner and known to be one of the “trendier” restaurants in the city.  It also shared a wall with one of those places which attracts youngsters who gather around and spend hours doing nothing, meaning it was a crowded sidewalk.  The dinner was good, and it was still relatively early when I returned back to my hotel.  The lobby bar was in full swing with some music and earlier in the day I had seen a nice place called ‘Gibson Lounge’.  It was a cozy bar with couches and I stopped for a nightcap before heading back to my room, where once again there were “macaroons” on my pillow.  Tomorrow would be an early morning, for I was headed to one of the more unique experiences of my travels.

One of the highlights of this trip:
"Music and the Spoken Word"

I got up early and after my final breakfast of “macaroons” on the terrace, checked out. I left my bag with the concierge and set off for ‘Temple Square’.  Right next to the actual Temple, is the ‘Tabernacle’, where for the past 87 years, every Sunday is a live program called “Music and the Spoken Word”.  Broadcast worldwide, this combination of classical music and an inspiring prose is the longest running uninterrupted network broadcast in the world.  And it’s open to anyone who wants to attend, provided you get there in time.  I arrived just as the choir was practicing and was led into a building which has been designed for great acoustics.  The choir was practicing and it was a magnificent sight.  The sound was great, especially with the organ and the orchestra, but what was even more impressive was the way everything was arranged, with men and women dressed in their Sunday best on either side of the organ.  Just before 9:30 am they came and introduced some of the dignitaries from all over the world, including some high ranking politicians.  Then they gave us instructions on being silent since this is a live broadcast.  For the next 30 minutes we were treated to a performance that was memorable, not just because of the music and the singing, but also the message that accompanied it.  At the end of the broadcast they asked us to stay since they had to re-record one of the songs, and no one seemed to mind.  I was glad to have been here this Sunday morning, to be a part of this historic occasion.  And it seemed like the right place to be for me.  Life will lead you to disappointments…and more than once.  But then there are occasions like this, where out of nowhere you realize that there are small miracles to be discovered every day.  Back after my 26^th visit I did a list of categories such as my favorite food, city etc.  If there ever was a category of the one thing that I am the most privileged to have attended, this would be it.

The "Temple Gardens" 

There are 2 “Visitor’s Center’s” here, each having its own museum.  I went into the “South” one and was greeted by a young woman who introduced herself as a “Sister” and mentioned that she was a missionary.  Soft spoken and polite, she told me about the place and the encouraged me attend a walking tour of the site, which would start in a few minutes.  She was one of the kindest people that I have met and I thought that they were lucky to have her as a missionary.  Very soon I would realize that she wasn’t the only one.  The museum in here told the story of Brigham Young and his follower’s settling in Salt Lake City and their long ordeal in building the magnificent Temple outside, something that took 40 years to accomplish.  I walked about the exhibits for a bit and then went outside to the meeting spot for the tour.

The model of the Temple

Two other young women introduced themselves as missionaries, who would be giving the group a tour.  One of them was from Brazil and they both had similar personalities to the young lady I had met inside.  As we walked about the garden and the exterior of the temple, they told us about how they came to be missionaries and the sacrifices they are expected to make for a couple of years.  Considering how young they are, it is asking a lot from them and no wonder it takes a certain kind of character to be a missionary.  Being outside of the “Mormon” faith, we were not allowed inside the temple, but were able to see a model of the same, and the interior is fantastic.  It had been an informative tour and I was glad that I had stayed for it.

The 'Beehive House'

A few blocks away from was ‘Beehive House’, the residence of Brigham Young.  I went in and met 2 other young ladies who asked if I would like a tour.  I said yes and soon we were joined by another family, as they took us through the house and told us stories from Brigham Young’s life.  They also told us how they came to be missionaries and once again, I could not have asked for nicer people.  After the tour I returned back to ‘Temple Square’ and visited the museum in the other “Visitor’s Center”.  It was getting well past noon and I had just enough time for lunch before leaving for the airport.  I returned back to the mall which I had visited yesterday for my “Escape Room”.  It looked deserted, barring one place which served a ticketed “Gospel Brunch” which was sold out.  Looking at the amount of securing present outside, you would think that some Royalty was dining inside!  I asked directions for a pub that I had seen on the map and after getting lost across multiple levels for over 15 minutes, I finally found the place.  After a quick bite, I was ready to close out this trip. 

It had been an illuminating visit

I walked back to my hotel to collect my bag and called an ‘Uber’ for the airport.  This had been one of the more beautiful cities that I had visited.  But that is not what’s going to make this trip memorable for me.  Unquestionably it’s the people that I met, especially this morning.  Seeing those youngsters and the way they treat others was inspirational.  People much older than them have less regard for loyalty and relationships, mainly because they are programmed to be “takers”.  But then you meet someone like these missionaries who are an embodiment of unconditional kindness.  And I promised myself that from now onward, whenever I think I am being wronged, I will think about them and feel hope in humanity.