26. Delaware

Month: November 2016
Location: Dover & Wilmington

There are some images in life which you may not have seen for decades.  But the moment you see them again, a lifetime of memories hit you like a wave.  One such image from my childhood was of a dog looking inside a gramophone.  That for me represented days of sitting on a rug in my parents place, listening to music.  Who knew that after all these years; I would be reminded of those magical days in a small building in Dover, Delaware.

I was headed to Dover
When I started looking at places to visit in Delaware, most of the attractions were around the beach.  This wasn’t exactly a month to be visiting the beaches, so I decided to go to Wilmington instead.  Then I was told that Dover, which is the capital and further South would be a better choice and so I picked that one.  In either case I was flying into Philadelphia and while Wilmington was a train ride away, Dover would require a car.  So I reserved a car and booked myself into a hotel that I found online.  Then after a few days and a bit of research on Dover I started second guessing myself and decided to change over to Wilmington.  Unfortunately the hotel said that I had gone beyond their cancellation deadline and so now I was stuck.  With a name like ‘Dover Garden Suites’, I thought that they were being pretentious for what sounded like a Motel.  Boy was I ever so wrong.

This was my "Living Room"
I took an early morning flight to Philadelphia and then after a frustrating wait at the rental car agency, finally got my car and armed with my trusted phone, set off for Dover.  Ever since moving to Chicago I haven’t had many opportunities to drive and so it was great to get to do that again.  It was a beautiful day and the roads were empty, especially as I entered the great state of Delaware.  After little over an hour I took the exit for my hotel and the map deposited me in a vacant parking lot.  As I approached a building – which did look like a Motel – I learned that it was in fact a "Funeral Home".  So I called the number for my hotel and the lady said that I should come around the bend and I would see an area for a car to pull in. So I did so and this building wasn’t looking any better. I approached a door and the sign on it said that I should call a number if I had reservations.  So I did and soon the lady at the other end emerged and asked me to bring my car around to yet another gate and she would let me in.  By this time I was annoyed and grumpily did as I was told, and went inside what looked like a courtyard and parked. The lady then walked me to a cottage and said that it was a key-less entry and that she would program a code of my choice.  I thought that these guys were full of themselves for thinking that this was the ‘Ritz Carlton’.  I had stayed it that during my visit to Atlanta and this isn’t that.  As soon as she opened the door, I was proven right.  This wasn’t a "five star hotel".  It was better.

And this was my Garden
The entry with its ornate foyer should have warned me what to expect.  I was led into a lavish living room that looked like it had been decorate from a ‘Pottery Barn’ catalog.  The furniture was artistic, there were things that I would never think of buying and had an exquisite look.  Then there was a kitchen, which was small, but stocked with better cutlery and plates than I have at home. There were some modern appliances – including a wine cooler – and expensive coffee maker. Plus the fridge was stocked, there were snacks and while that is common for many hotels, this stuff was complimentary.  We could have stopped here, but then she took me to see the bedroom which once again, looked like something that a visiting “Royalty” would approve.  I mean, just the mirror in there probably cost more than all my things put together. Then there was the bathroom, which was 2 rooms – yes, you read that right – and this was just one of the two bathrooms in this unit.  By now I was a bit overwhelmed and then she said that I should check out the patio.  Wait what.  There was a door leading to the back with my own patio – and not a small one.  But wait this wasn’t it.  A path led from the patio to a back garden and when I say garden, I mean a big lawn with pebbled walkways where people may conduct weddings.  And it was all mine for half the price that a hotel room would charge in a bigger city.

"First State Heritage Park Market Fair"
After the lady had left, I took pictures and broadcast it for anyone who would listen.  At this stage I was contemplating just staying in house because nothing in Dover would beat this.  But that wouldn’t be right, so I gathered my accessories such as chargers and decided to walk the mile into the main town square.  It took me some time to emerge out of the property and from outside it looked like a ordinary motel and doubt if passing cars had any idea of the treasures lying within these gates.  The road was looking like a highway and only when I got closer to my destination that the streets became quieter and friendlier.  Around me were some Government buildings that were deserted but I could see an assembly in between some buildings, which housed a park called ‘First State Heritage Park’ and where an “18th Century Market Fair” was being conducted.  I had hit the jackpot by visiting Dover this weekend, when they have this activity.

The supplies for "Quilling"
The first thing I noticed was that people were dressed in the attire from the “colonial era”.  Not only that, but they spoke like people living in those days and all the stations were doing activities that one would typically find in a market if you visited it in the late 1700’s.  My first stop was at a booth where plenty of people had gathered and for good reason.  They were sampling hot chocolate and the unique thing about it was that they were using only the ingredients which would have been available back then – meaning no refined sugar.  Despite the lack of that, it was delicious, as was a bottle of “Apple Cider” that I purchased and gulped down.  There were stations making tools, weaving and even some selling historic artifacts. I saw that one of the booths had a lot of kids hanging around it and when I went there, I saw that it was in fact an “arts and crafts” project called “Quilling”.  So, in those days, colored paper – like today’s stock paper – would be cut in thin strips and then “twirled” around a feather “quill”.  After that the colorful concentric circles could be stuck to a blank canvas to make art.  It was a very novel way of doing things and I even saw some samples.

The 'Governor's Cafe'
There was an inn which was serving food and also a “Medicine Man” who was giving an impassionate speech to a captive audience.  I stopped to visit a “Souvenir Shop” that was being run by an elderly gentleman.  I browsed through their selection and in one of the rooms a lady was selling some artifacts, being dressed like the folks who were outside in the park.  I bought a few things and chatted with the gentleman running the store and he gave me some pointers on the map, as well as some additional brochures to read.  I was going to a place called ‘Governor’s Café’ for lunch and it was called so because it was located right across the ‘Governor’s Mansion’.  I followed the map to the café and it was located inside a beautiful house with a nice patio where people were enjoying their food on this nice warm day.  The inside was even better, with the various rooms of the house being converted into dining spaces, while still maintaining the décor appropriate to a place like this.

This place had a lot of history
The staff was friendly and after my meal I was about to head out, when I saw something in one of brochures that I had picked up.  It said that I was supposed to ask the shopkeeper about the “Chocolate Murders” that had taken place in a place nearby.  That certainly aroused my curiosity and I decided to go back to the place and ask about this.  The gentleman who had given me directions was there and I asked him to tell me the story.  He did so as pothers gathered around us – along with an elderly lady who seemed to be waiting for him to finish so as to say hello.  So the story goes that a lady named Cordelia Botkin, in 1898 sent her ex-lover’s wife a box of poisoned chocolates, thus killing her and her sister.  The case became famous because it covered 2 jurisdictions, California – from where the poisoned box was shipped – and Delaware – where the actual deaths took place.  It was a creepy story and I was sure that the gentleman enjoys telling it.

No, this wasn't a museum for dogs
Now Dover has all of 2 or 3 museums and without knowing anything about it, I was headed to one of them – ‘Johnson Victrola Museum’.  I walked over there and the building didn’t look like much from the outside.  Upon entering I was met by a gentleman who was probably in charge and he told me this was a museum dedicated to Eldridge Johnson, one of the more famous people from this State.  He is also the founder of the ‘Victor Talking Machine Company’.  I hadn’t heard of it, but I saw something in the museum - their logo of a dog staring inside a gramophone.  I knew it by another name, a name that I hadn’t thought of in many many years, “His Master’s Voice” or “HMV”.

While I confess to being “tone deaf” when it comes to musical instruments, music has always been a part of my life.  Some of my earliest memories are of listening to music on “HMV” tapes but it wasn’t something that I had thought about for years.  So imagine my surprise when I saw the reference to that everywhere in this 2 floor museum, with several models of dogs of various sizes and the accompanying gramophone.  In fact, the 2nd floor had several of those and even had corners which looked like a dog shelter.  It was a good museum with lot of stories and history around the man and this company.

The 'Biggs Museum of  Art'
I walked back through the park – the “Medicine Man” was still going strong – and procceded to ‘Biggs Museum of American Art’.  The main lobby of the museum as well as its “Gift shop” had been taken over by local artisans who were displaying their handcrafted items for sale.  There were lot of people walking about this area and almost no one was in the galleries.  I saw a booth with some beer samples and it was Delaware’s own ‘Dogfish Head Brewery’ who were displaying a couple of their beers.  I liked this place already and after tasting the samples, walked about in the museum; which is quite good.  When I left, it was still early and there really wasn’t much to do in the afternoon.  Fortunately I had a good backup which was enjoying my “palace” and so I came back and sat on a comfortable chair in the living room, while enjoying the snacks and coffee that was on offer.  Not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

The historic tavern
I was going back to downtown Dover, well the place which can probably be referred to as "Downtown" and decided to walk there rather than take my car.  As I got to the Government buildings darkness had set in and the place was looking quite pretty.  The roads were deserted and I wasn’t sure if it was too early for people to come out or too late!  I was headed to a place called ‘The Golden Fleece Tavern’ who has 2 claims to fame.  The first was that this was a really old tavern from back in the “Revolutionary War” days.  The 2nd thing this place was known for was its “Hot Apple Cider” made with “Butterscotch Rum”.  I entered the place which looked like any other “diver bar” and was empty as it gets.  I ordered the said drink and was told that they had just started making it and the lady pointed towards the “crockpot” in which the concoction was brewing.  She said that it would take at least an hour and I told her that I wasn’t going to miss out on it and would be back.

I was going around the corner to a place called ‘Grey Fox Grille & Public House’, which was inside building that looked like a house.  Like ‘Governor Café’, the interior was very charming, especially the dining rooms.  I sat at the bar and had one of the “Martini’s” that they are known for.  It wasn’t a bad way to pass the time and after an hour or so, I went back to try my luck with the cider.  The lady at the bar seemed surprised that I had come back and I said of course!  The drink wasn’t as hot as I would I have liked, but it was delicious.  There were a few people at the bar, though not as many as you would expect on a Saturday evening.  My final stop for the evening was for dinner at ’33 West Ale House & Grill’ and this was by far the most popular place I had been to this evening.  It was full and noisy and wouldn’t have been out-of-place in a bigger city.  I enjoyed my time here and when it was time to leave, it was just after 8 pm!

Night falls on Dover
I called an ‘Uber’ and after the ride was accepted, I got a text message from the driver saying that he was on his way and included enough “emoji’s” to take up 2 lines.  Then after a while he said that he was warming up his car and would be there soon.  After being picked up, I learned that he lived nearby and was sitting at home on the couch when he got my call.  He also said that he was watching a “Hallmark movie” with his wife at the time and I said that maybe it wasn’t the worse thing then!  He dropped me at my hotel and now there was a dilemma.  I had not taken my car and the only way in was to use the electronic door opener that they had given me for my car.  I had to once again call the number on the door and the lady had to come and open the door for me.  It was a bit creepy to be sitting on the huge bed in that elaborate bedroom, but I was too tired and drifted off to sleep soon enough.

Downtown Wilmington on a Sunday morning
I got up early next morning since I was headed to Wilmington, which was on the way to the airport in Philadelphia.  I made some coffee and walked about in my backyard and the garden, still unable to believe that all of this was included in the price of my accommodation.  The drive from Dover to Wilmington was just under an hour and it was a nice day to be driving, both in terms of the weather as well as traffic.  Plus, I found a show which was playing ‘The Beatles’ helping pass the time.  I arrived in Wilmington and made my way to a parking lot in downtown.  It was quite windy this morning and as can be expected on a Sunday, the place was empty.

One of the many places attributed to the du Pont family
I was going to start off with brunch, but the restaurant wasn’t open yet.  There was a luxury hotel nearby called ‘Hotel du Pont’. and I decided to wait there .  Now, this would be a good time to talk about the name “du Pont”.  Having studied “Polymer Science”, this name was familiar to me and I may have even explored employment prospects in the famous ‘DuPont Industries”.  But it never occurred to me that they were from Wilmington, Delaware and being this city’s most famous residents, the entire place had their mark on everything – from hotels, to parks, to museums.  The hotel itself was grand and there was some sort of “Meetup” or “study group” that had assembled.  I asked if there was a coffee shop in there and indeed there was one, so I got some coffee and waited for my brunch place - 'Chelsea Tavern' - to open. 

The "du Pont House"
At brunch I planned the rest of my day and the first stop was going to be ‘Hagley Museum and Library’, which was where the first du Pont family home was located, along with their factory shops.  I took my car and drove there, arriving just in time for a tour.  This was a huge estate spread out over several acres and with a creek running through it.  To get to the location of the residence would take a bus ride and I caught the bus with minutes to spare.   Upon exiting, we were introduced to the du Pont family history and then took a walk to the nearby mansion, which was once their residence and is now a tourist attraction.  It was lovely walking through the gardens on this beautiful fall day and the house was remarkable, without being flashy.

Gunpowder was made on these grounds
We also visited the office from which Mr. du Pont ran his business, which was making Gunpowder.  In fact, on the way to the mansion we had seen buildings which were termed as “Gunpowder Houses” and there was even going to be a demonstration for us on the way back.  The guide told us that often the family would hear the sound of gunpowder echoing through the valley and surely that wasn’t the most ideal thing for their peace and sanity.  The tour was about an hour and we boarded the bus back for the visitor’s center, but there were going to be a couple of stops on the way.  The first one was to see a demonstration of a 100 year old “Steam Engine” which a gentleman showed us; and the second was the demonstration to see how gunpowder was made.  I was running late and had other places to get to, and so skipped the gunpowder demo, preferring to stay on the bus back to the the parking lot.

The 'Delaware Art Museum'
I got in my car and drove to the next destination – ‘Delaware Art Museum’.  Once again, I wanted to make it in time for a tour and I arrived with a few minutes to spare.  For a long time it looked like I would be the only person on the tour but soon a couple joined and the guide took us through the different galleries and told us stories behind the artwork, as well as the local connections of the artists.  I have seen several art museums during my travels and this one was on par with some of the best.  I enjoyed my time here and after the hour long guided tour, walked around by myself for a bit.  But I knew I was on a tight schedule and my next destination was indeed urging me to hurry up.

The 'Nemours'
One of my concerns was that my phone was dying and since I was also using it as a “GPS” while driving, it was draining more rapidly than the charge coming in through the car charger.  With very little power to spare I reached ‘Nemours Mansion & Gardens’; another estate belonging to the du Pont family.  The first thing I did after buying a ticket was sitting at a bench and charging my phone for a bit.  The tour starts with a short film regarding the family and this estate and I used that opportunity to charge it a little more.  The main mansion was a bit away from the visitor’s center and so I set off for it, only to be turned back at the gates, since the entry was only via a bus.  So I walked back and sure enough a small shuttle was waiting for the visitors.

The magnificent gardens
As the shuttle entered the gates, the first thing I saw was the magnificent gardens, and I mean truly fantastic.  Apparently they had been designed after the “Gardens of Versailles” and I can only imagine the costs that Mr. du Pont must have incurred to get these established.  I got off the bus and entered the mansion and it was befitting the gardens.  The place put some of the mansions that I had seen in Newport to shame and that’s saying something.  As I walked through the different rooms, the opulence and wealth of the family was there to see and nothing was more brilliant than the "Game Room’s" in the basement which, besides the usual “Pool Tables”, had a full sized “Bowling Alley” – full sized!  It was a house beyond any other and as I looked at those incredible gardens through the window, I wondered how it would have been to live in a place like this…even live in that era where people flaunted their wealth and were in fact expected to do so.

Yes, that's a "Bowling Alley" inside the house
The shuttle also dropped people off to see something called “Chauffeurs Garage”, which is supposed to house some of the family’s “Vintage Automobiles”.  But I decided to stay on the bus heading back, though I would have loved to have spent more time walking through those gardens.  But I wanted to visit one more place before leaving and that was ‘Rockwood Park & Museum’.  I arrived at the park and walked up to the museum, only to learn that it had closed an hour before the time that was posted online.  Now I wished that I had stayed back to enjoy those gardens, and since there was nothing else to do; headed back to the airport.

The 'Rockwood Museum', which was closed
Perhaps it wasn’t bad that I had so much time, since as I approached the airport in Philadelphia, I started looking for a gas station to fill up my car prior to returning it.  But there was none in sight, even as I drove through the terminals and back on the highway.  I decided to take the next exit, which took me across a long bridge and into Philadelphia city, very close to the football stadium.  Thank God the “Eagles” were playing an away game today; else I would have been caught in the departing traffic.  I drove past the stadium and through some roads and spotted a place, only to be thwarted by impossible lane change.  So I kept going and found myself back on that bridge going to the airport.  Soon I was back where I had started and the tank was still empty.  But now I knew where to fill up and so I went back the same route and this time made sure that I was in the right lane.  I filled up and after 45 minutes since my first arrival, I was back at the airport and returned my car. 

 It had been a fantastic visit.  When I decided to come to Dover, I had very little expectation from the place.  But I had a fun time yesterday, at the market and also in the evening at all the places that I had visited.  Plus what about my residence!  By far the best place I have stayed at and it’s not even close.  Coming to Wilmington today had also been a good idea and I had seen a lot in a short time.  I now know more about the du Pont’s than I did when in school.  So concluded my 26th visit in 26 months and with Washington DC in the books, that means I am halfway through the 50 States.  Perhaps a mid-point retrospective is in order.


25. Nebraska

Month: October 2016
Location: Omaha

Downtown Omaha
I had been to Nebraska before, having spent a weekend in Lincoln a couple of years ago.  What had struck me about the place had been the friendliness of the people and the charm that a small town possesses.  So I was looking forward to now visiting another city in that state, and it would be a quick one.  I took a flight out there on Saturday morning and arrived to find a beautiful day.  I had requested a shuttle service to my hotel and my driver was a friendly chap who insisted on driving me through the downtown so that I could evaluate my choices for the evening.  As I checked in to my hotel, I was excited for the rest of the day.

Welcome to 'WheatFields'
First order of business was brunch and in this instance it was to be at a place called ‘WheatFields’ in downtown.  As I have observed in other small towns, the main street was paved by bricks, which immediately makes any place look better.  The restaurant was playful and had already started on their "Halloween” decorations.  There was a big crowd, though I was lucky to get a table and then I waited…for a long time.  Apparently there was some confusion on who was my server and while I am all for “soaking in” the surroundings of a new town, I was also very hungry, especially with the great food being served around me.  After what seemed like an eternity someone did come and I was able to try the thing they are most known for, “Brule Potatoes”, which tasted just as good as their dessert counterpart.

The fountain area which turned into a reception hall
My first destination for the afternoon was ‘Joslyn Art Museum’ and I decided to walk the mile or so to get there.  The museum looks quite modern from outside and the first pleasant surprise was the fact that the entry was free.  I walked through the various galleries and around some students who were on a tour; and was pleased to see an indoor courtyard with a water fountain.  Very soon a lot of people descended on the courtyard and started setting it up for what looked like a wedding reception.  I seem to be encountering a lot of these, though this was a better location than an aircraft hangar.  A bigger courtyard connected this wing to the modern one and it consisted of the museum café which displayed one of the larger “Chihuly” glass pieces that I have seen.  I walked around for a bit and after a brief stop at the outdoor “Sculptor Garden”, headed to my next stop, which took me back through the town, to the other side.

The magnificent hall of 'Durham Museum'
I was going to ‘Durham Museum’, which has been established inside the now defunct ‘Union Train Station’ building.  I entered the building and into the grand hall which is typical of the great railway stations.  A very enthusiastic lady at the ticket window told me about the place and the path that I should take.  As expected, most of the exhibits dealt with trains, including full sized carriages from different eras.  I walked through the models, including trams and some magnificent “Pullman Coaches”.  As I passed through them, opulence and luxury of a long forgotten era was all around me and I for one would love to take a journey through them some day.

People traveled in style in the old days
Besides the trains, they had a temporary exhibit on the “Prohibition Era”, which was similar to the one I had seen in Louisville.  While not as comprehensive as that one, it was quite good and had some interesting interactive activities like a “Charleston dance” based on a video – with the feet positions mapped out – and a video game where you had to maneuver a boat and capture “bootleggers” on a river.  I walked through some of the other exhibits before emerging back in the grand hall.  One of the main attractions of this place is an old fashioned “soda fountain shop” from back in the day when this was a working train station.  My phone was dying and so I sat on one of the benches to charge it, which was quite ironic since I appeared like someone waiting for a train.  The only difference was that they would have been reading a newspaper on actual paper rather than digitally.  Soon, I had to leave since they needed this space for…you guessed it, a wedding.  Whatever happened to parties in hotels and resorts?

No, that does not count as 2 states
It had turned into a nice evening as I walked towards the riverfront, stopping at a local souvenir shop.  Like most “Midwestern States”, Omaha has a nice riverfront walk and many people were out to take advantage of the weather.  As I walked through the park, I saw several wedding parties and there surely must be some discount being offered to for weddings in Omaha today or else these groups were headed to one of 2 locations where I had seen preparations!  I was headed to the ‘Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge’ which connects Nebraska to Iowa.  It looked as if the bridge was deceptively close, though with some path closures it took me some time to get on it.  As I climbed up to the apex, I saw another group which looked like a wedding party and I navigated through their photo session to reach the state line and then I just had to take a picture with one foot in each state, because I am “cheesy” like that!

Dusk was settling in and I headed back and after a few dead ends on the path, found myself in downtown.  I was going to a bar called ‘Wicked Rabbit’, which is a “speakeasy” if I ever saw one.  You enter what looks like a cigar and liquor store and only when you tell the hostess behind the counter that you are interested in going there, does she press something on a shelf and a door opens to let you inside a bar.  The bar itself was fantastic and so were the drinks.  I heard the "mixologist" tell people to “enjoy the show” and upon inquiry learned that they were all going to a comedy show.  Nothing like a few cocktails to get you in the mood I suppose.  I certainly enjoyed my stay here and this was one of the best bars that I have come across during my travels.

A "nightcap" before bed
I left ‘Wicked Rabbit’ from a side door, which was less flamboyant than the entrance, and went for dinner to a nearby place named ‘Block 16’. It is a charming “bistro” style restaurant and quite popular with the locals.  After some of the most wonderful fries that I have had, I called an ‘Uber’ and headed to “Midtown”, where my hotel was located.  Based on the crowd and all the activities going on, it was certainly the place to be on a Saturday night…or any night for that matter.  But before going back to my room, there was something that I had to do.  Nearby was a restaurant called ‘The Grey Plume’ and they served a cocktail named “Strawberry Fields Forever”, which happens to be the title of one of my favorite songs.  I sat at the bar and chatted with the staff who said that I was lucky to get one of the last servings of the cocktail, since some of the ingredients are seasonal and would not be available till next summer.  It was a perfect end to the day and as I walked back to my hotel, I wished that I had more energy to enjoy some of the other places that were just getting started with their parties.

A coffee shop with comic books
The next morning I was going a bit away from midtown to a place called ‘Legend Comics & Coffee’.  As the name would suggest, it was a coffee shop and a comic book store.  I arrived to find that the place was almost empty and the only people there looked like they were regulars.  The comic book store, which is connected to the coffee shop, wasn’t open yet, but there were shelves of comic books that one could read while in the café.  I sat a table with my laptop for a bit and then walked through the comic store when it opened.  After that I navigated the residential neighborhood to find my destination for lunch, a vegan place called ‘Modern Love’.  What they are known for is their interpretations of classic dishes such as “biscuits and gravy” and “scrambled eggs”, but with vegan ingredients.  There was a bit of argument on getting seated – they refused to do so before my reservation time even though seats were available, but eventually I did get a seat and the food was good.

A visit to the Zoo
I called a ride to a place I would typically not visit, a zoo.  However, ‘Henry Doorly Zoo and Aquarium’ is considered to be one of the world’s premiere zoos.  The entry reminded me of a “theme park” from Orlando, and for good reason.  The zoo is big and looking at the map I realized that it was unlikely that I would be able to cover everything this afternoon.  I started by visiting the various halls and even though they were indoors, they did not lack in scope or ambition.  There were settings of desserts and jungles as well as caverns for nocturnal species.  I tried to visit as many places as possible, though the zoo was spread out on a hill and I was going up and down the inclined path, trying to track the map.  I walked for miles that afternoon, though there were other transportation means such as a “ski lift” which gave visitors a tour of the entire zoo.  Now there were 2 problems with that – first, plenty of people were already in a line and secondly, sitting on a lift with my arms and legs hanging out as we passed over predators cages wasn’t exactly a comforting visual!

No better place to end than 'Lauritzen Gardens'
Although I could have spent the rest of my time over here, I wanted to hit one more spot in Omaha before departing – ‘Lauritzen Gardens’.  They have a tram tour which takes the visitors through different parts of this sprawling property and I wanted to ensure I caught the last one of the day.  I arrived with a few minutes to spare and while I waited for the tour to commence, walked through the “Arboretum”.  I sat at the front of the tram and our driver drove us around the property while commentating through a microphone.  We made a few stops, at a “Rose garden”, as well as an exhibit which had a “model railroad set” that was incorporated into the nature scenery.  After driving through the gardens he took us up a hill where 2 full-sized locomotives are housed and told us about the trials and tribulations of getting the heavy machinery up there.  Why anyone would want locomotives displayed over there was beyond me; however it was a nice sight.  The whole tour had been great and I was glad to have rushed here. 

I wanted to walk through some of the smaller gardens that our guide had pointed out, but they were about to close.  They also had some sort of “Japanese Festival” going on and as a part of that there were activities going about such as “calligraphy” as well as a board game that looked like “checkers”.  I talked to the gentleman who was running that booth and he told me the rules and how there are TV channels in Japan dedicated to showing this.  That seemed like an extremely nerdy thing, but then we have “poker” on “ESPN”!  I took an ‘Uber’ to the airport and it had been a fantastic visit.  I had loved my short time here, especially last evening.  When I had mentioned to people that I was going to Nebraska, their response had been, “why”?  I for one knew that I wanted to come back.


24. Massachusetts

Month: September 2016
Location: Boston & Salem

Aah Boston!
Growing up, the one name that everyone knew as regards the educational institutions in the US was ‘Massachusetts Institute of Technology’ or ‘MIT’.  Through that grew my interest in the city of Boston and the region of New England.  Thus, I was delighted to be able to come to Connecticut for my studies and the very first weekend that I was here, we took a trip to Boston.  Over the next several years, I had been to Boston dozens of times, either for a conference, work, visiting friends, sporting events, concerts or for food.  But never had I gone to Boston as a tourist, well at least not like I am doing during this quest.  Of all the places that I should have known intimately, it was Boston.  But I didn’t; and so was excited to visit for a new adventure.

'Boston Common' at night
I arrived early in the evening and took the free bus service to downtown, which many other passengers besides me were availing of.  I was dropped off at ‘South Station’ and then I had to rely on my phone maps to navigate the narrow streets.  After a few wrong turns I found my hotel and went to my room to plan my evening.  There really wasn’t much to do and so I started towards the ‘Boston Common’ park and discovered that the path towards that was through some of the more charming streets that I have seen.  As I have said in the past, I am extremely fond of cobblestone or brick streets and hidden within this part of town was an entire such block that was full of people enjoying the pleasant evening.  I walked through the park which is to Boston what ‘Central Park’ is to New York City.  Passing by a fountain, a carousel and a baseball field, it felt like a perfect introduction to the vibe of the city, something to draw you in before throwing you into the hustle and bustle.  I had dinner reservations in a place called ‘O Ya’ and after that I returned back to my room for an early night.

Outside 'Fenway park'
I woke up early next morning since I had scheduled a guided tour of ‘Fenway Park’, home of the “Boston Red Sox". This is a team that I root for, along with the other sporting teams of this region.  I had given myself enough time to take a train there, but when I entered the station, I saw that all of the vending machines said “cash only” and since I did not have smaller change, I had no choice but to take an ‘Uber’ there.  I was dropped off at the stadium and it took me some time to locate the right window to claim my ticket.  I was told to wait across the street, outside the official “gifts store” and very soon a sizable crowd assembled.  A couple who was standing in front of me started a conversation and I learned that they were from Kentucky.  The guy mentioned that his dad had brought him here as a kid and he had decided to come back years later with his wife.  “Red Sox” have a certain mysticism to them which extends beyond this region and has fans all over the world. 

...and inside
A lady with a microphone and a speaker – she carried it like a pouch – took us inside the stadium and in to the stands.  There was some sort of high school practice/tryouts going on and with that as the background, she told us about the history of the park as well as the team.  We were then taken on top of the famous “Green Monster”, which in my opinion has the best view, and told about some other memorable moments from the rich history of the club.  The tour continued through the press boxes and all around the stadium, concluding in the museum behind the club house.  It had been an educational look at one of baseball's premier clubs and after saying bye to my new friends; I left for my next stop.

Invitation to 'The Fairy Shop'
I decided to walk back towards downtown and on the way came across a nice coffee shop called ‘Pavement Café’, stopping for a quick breakfast.  I walked passed the ‘Hynes Convention Center’ – site of the numerous conferences that I had attended over the years – and on to “Newbury Street”, which is Boston’s version of the “5th Avenue”, with boutique stores.  This is where I came across one of the most unique stores that I have seen.  As I went past the stores a sign caught my eye, so much so that I had to retrace my steps.  It said simply ‘The Fairy Shop’ and fascinated by it, I peeked inside.  What I saw was nothing short of, well…magical.  There were objects and things that are every little boy and girl's delight; as well as something for the inner nerd in you.  There were “Unicorns” and other magical creatures, along with paraphernalia from numerous fantasy movies.  But what made this store great was its owner.  He was a friendly man who I had a wonderful time chatting with, for he was the sort that truly believes in magic.  Before I left the store he sprinkled some “fairy dust” on my gift bag…just for good measure.

Sights on the tour
As great as this stop had been, I was now running late and so hastened my step towards ‘Boston Common’, where I was scheduled to go on “Freedom Trail Walking Tour”.  One of the signature landmarks in Boston is the “Red Line” that runs through the streets; a 2.5 mile path that takes visitors through some of the iconic locations from Boston’s history.  While this tour would not be that long, it was still going to cover many landmarks.  I was frantically searching for the meeting point, when I noticed people wearing some 18th century attire and realized that those were our guides.  There were different tours departing at the same time and I was with a gentleman who told us at the beginning that he would be in character throughout our time together.  For the next 90 minutes he took us around the area, through the historic sites and regaled us with tales from the “Revolutionary War”.  We even saw a “changing of the guard” ceremony before dispersing.

At the 'Mary Baker Eddy Library'
Being a long weekend, everywhere in Boston there was a huge crowd, not least at the harbor where there was hardly enough room to walk.  I was trying to locate a place called ‘Barking Crab’ for lunch and while it was on the waterfront, it was also deceptively far.  I arrived to see that it was full and had an hour long wait.  Fortunately, I was able to grab a table by the bar and after a quick lunch, called an ‘Uber’ for my next destination, ‘Mary Baker Eddy Library’.  While library is dedicated to Mary Baker Eddy, the founder of the famous “The Christian Science Monitor”, the main attraction of the library is a room known as “The Mapparium”, one of the more unique places that I have seen.  It is essentially a 3-story stained-glass globe, within which one can stand and view the world as an inside-out globe; with all the continents and oceans all around you.  There is a short show with lights and music which gives the audience a thrilling experience.  This was the main reason I had come to this place and well worth the visit.

Waiting for my dinner reservations
I got dropped off at the harbor and purchased a one-way ferry ticket to take me to Salem the next morning.  I returned back to the room and stayed there for a bit before going for my dinner at ‘The Tasting Counter’, which is in Somerville, a suburb of Boston.  I was dropped off on a street which was dark and deserted, with absolutely no signs indicating where the place was.  There was a brewery next door and upon asking they said that the doors would open soon.  Having been to restaurants like these I should have known that it wouldn’t be that evident and when I did go inside, it looked like a commercial building.  The dining room was still being used by the earlier round of guests and so I walked around looking at some artwork and even some really expensive chocolate.  Once inside, I was extremely impressed by the place, the setting, the service and the food.  I was back at my room at a reasonable hour, which was great since I had a day trip planned for the next day.

On my way to Salem
Next morning, I walked over to the harbor and there was already a line to get on the ferry.  It was a clear and pleasant day and I was looking forward to the hour long ride to Salem.  I got a seat on the top deck and as we pulled away from the harbor, even though the wind had picked up, it still made for a good start.  Then we hit the open water and everything went sideways.  The wind was now brutal and the boat was rocking up and down making it extremely uncomfortable for everyone.  It wasn’t as if the storm clouds were gathering or rain was in the air.  It was still a beautiful day.  Around me, I could see people were struggling to walk and many were now just counting the minutes till we arrived.  The captain had been on the microphone giving us information on the sights and after a point no one really cared, preferring to hang on to dear life instead.  Plus we couldn’t hear him over the wind.  As we got closer to Salem, it got better and pulling into the harbor wasn’t as bad.  I was glad that I had purchased a one-way ticket and was going back to the city on a train.

The beautiful streets of Salem
I had wanted to visit Salem for several years, but never made it out there.  Salem is knows for the infamous “Witch Trials” from the late 17th century; and reading about the town beforehand, it seemed like it was the most prevalent tourist attraction.  As I walked down the streets, I was struck by how pretty small New England towns are and this one was no exception, reminding me of Newport in Rhode Island.  I had reserved a spot on a walking tour, and not just an ordinary historical walk of the town.  This one was called “Salem Witch Walk” and it would be led by a real “witch”.  I arrived at the starting location which was a house with a store not unlike the “Voodoo" shop that I had encountered in New Orleans.  Plus, they had a “Fortune Teller”, meaning that  I just had to sign up for a session!

A few people started assembling and soon we were joined by our “witch”, who turned out to be a male.  Now, having read the “Harry Potter” series, I believed that the term “witch” was for females, though that is a misconception.  According to our guide, it is a generic terminology for those practicing “witchcraft”, which does not deal with nefarious things as is believed, but rather a channeling of positive energies.  We started by doing a ritual in the backyard, with included idols, incense sticks, stones and even a sword. We concentrated our thoughts on good things and imbibed with that energy, set off on the tour.

The ingredients for our "ritual"
We walked through the town, stopping at various places where our guide told us the historical significance of that place, not least the graveyard where he recounted the horrific tales of what happened during the trials and the places where those accused are buried.  It was truly a gruesome story of people being persecuted on hearsay and being condemned to death via some cruel methods, including being crushed to death.  But it wasn’t just about the bad. He took us through the main street – lined with bricks – and into some of the shops where one could make write down someone’s name as an offering and which would be burnt and sent as “positive energy” to that person on “All Saints Day”.  He showed us pictures on how the town is transformed during the month of October, leading up to the huge parade on “Halloween”.  It seems like that is the time to come here and I certainly hope that someday I am able to.

The props at 'Witch History Museum'
The tour had been good and I walked back with the guide to the store for my appointment with the “Fortune Teller”, who turned out to be a lady sitting in the back of the room.  She started by setting a 15 minute timer on her phone and then after a bit of shuffling and cutting of the “Tarot Cards”, proceeded to tell me about all the good things that are coming up in my life including abundance of happiness, job satisfaction and travel.  Then seeing that there was still some time left on the clock, she added a few other tidbits and picked 5 stones for me, which signify certain things that I have already forgotten.  To her relief, by then the time was up and I was able to move on.  There are several museums in Salem with the word “witch” in them and I stopped at one such museum called ‘Witch History Museum’.  They had a 30 minute tour which started in a room with a stage and a set.  After a brief performance, we were escorted to the basement, which had a walking path through different props and life-size puppets and scenes which told the story of the trials.  It was actually quite well done in terms of the setting and the story, and well worth the visit.

Outside the 'Salem Witch Museum'
One of the best periods of my life was my time in Pittsburgh and the friendships that I developed over there, especially with my ex-colleagues.  One of them, Shawn, lives in Northern Massachusetts and in fact used to live in Salem.  So I texted to tell him that I was visiting and to my surprise, he said that he would be there in 45 minutes.  We decided to meet in a place called ‘Life Alive’, which is an “Organic Vegetarian” café.  I ordered my food just as he got there and we caught up over the next 30 minutes or so.  He then took me for a walk through the town, telling me stories about the time that he lived there, before dropping me off at the ‘Salem Witch Museum’.  It had been wonderful meeting him after all these years and I truly appreciated him coming out to see me.

In a town full of museums, the ‘Salem Witch Museum’ prides itself on being the premier attraction.  There is a huge statue of a “witch” outside the museum and a line to get in.  After a brief wait I was able to get inside a hall with chairs lined up against the walls and also in the center of the room.  I picked the center, which turned out to be the right choice since all around the room, towards the ceilings, was where the story was being staged via mannequins and other scene settings.  All I had to was turn around as the story was told and by the time it had covered the "360 degrees", so had I.  The poor souls who were sitting against the walls missed anything that happened above them.  There was another exhibit through which we were taken and then it was over.

Late afternoon at the town square
I had just enough time to visit the ‘Salem Wax Museum’ – where for the umpteenth time today I heard the story of the town. After that, there was nothing much to do but walk through the town prior to my train.  It was a pleasant time and people were out on the main street.  There was a big crowd at the train station and I learnt that the only way to get a ticket was on the train and with cash.  I literally had $2 remaining after purchasing my ticket and was thankful that I had not spent cash on some of the souvenirs prior to leaving Salem.  The train dropped me off in downtown and using my trusted map on the phone, I walked back to the hotel. 

"Copley Plaza" , where I would be back in 3 weeks
I was going for dinner to a place called ‘L ’Espalier’ and decided to walk the mile or so distance.  It was a nice walk and as I passed the “Copley Plaza”, it was quiet and abandoned - a stark contrast to how it would be when I return back in 3 weeks for the Jimmy Fund Walk.  As I settled for dinner, I took a peek at the weather for the next day and noticed that a storm was headed to Boston. It was supposed to hit the city late afternoon, right around the time that I was scheduled to depart.  I wanted to visit a couple of museums in the morning, but getting back home was a bigger priority than that.  So I checked with “Southwest” and was able to change my ticket to a flight in the morning.  This also meant that I had to hurry through dinner and get back to my hotel sooner than I had planned.  I took a cab to the airport early next morning and returned back to Chicago in the afternoon, well before the storm…which never happened.  Not one drop of rain.  Well, I may have missed half a day in Boston, but it had been a good trip.  I felt like I had truly “visited” Boston for the first time.  Plus Salem had been fantastic, charming New England town.  This was "State Number 24" and would conclude 2 years of travel since I started.