51. Oklahoma

Month: December 2018

Location: Tulsa

As I got close to the last third of these travels, one of the more frequent questions from people was, “Which is the last State that you would be visiting?”  I guess they were anticipating a response like “Hawaii” or something equally glamorous.  When I would respond with, “Oklahoma”, their reaction would be, “Oh”.  It wasn’t as if I had planned each month to be progressively better, just what made logistical sense based on weather.  So, for colder months, I would go south and as it so happened, Oklahoma was still on the board.  I guess I could have saved Hawaii for this December, rather than the last, but going to Hawaii is a complex trip and I did not want to take any chances.  Once I knew which State was the destination, I had to pick between Oklahoma City and Tulsa.  I asked some folks and the recommendation was to go to Tulsa.  So, with that settled months ago, I had booked my travel and stay.  Little was I to know that after 50 of these, the final stop would be where my logistics would hit a hurdle.

While in Little Rock, I was discussing hotel rates with Lisa and pulled out my phone to tell her how much I would be paying in Tulsa.  That’s when I realized that the nightly rate had gone down from when I had booked, and so I cancelled my earlier booking and re-booked in the same hotel at a lower rate.  The week of my travel, I was checking my “confirmation code” to ensure the transaction was as I had expected, when I noticed that not only was my earlier confirmation showing up as “cancelled”, so was the new one.  So, I called the hotel and it was then that I learned that they were shut down for the immediate future due to a fire.  Now, correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn’t it be proper to inform the guests!  With just a couple of days to go, I had to scramble to find new lodgings and fortunately, I did at ‘Residence Inn by Marriott’, a few blocks away from my earlier hotel.  I couldn’t help but think that my conversation with Lisa over beer – when we were supposed to call it a night but had decided on a nightcap – led to me re-booking and thus checking my status.  Typically, I trust the process and if not for the change, I would have showed up in Tulsa and found a burnt down hotel and no place to stay!  I had been extremely lucky!

An overcast day in  Tulsa

I connected in Saint Louis – time which I used for a business call – and landed in Tulsa just before noon.  Riding into downtown showcased this is as any other mid-sized city that I have been to.  My driver was regaling me with things to do and places to visit, though she did say that Oklahoma City was bigger and more popular.  Well, I was in Tulsa and would make the most of it.  I dropped off my stuff in my room – which included a kitchen - and left to get some lunch on an overcast and chilly day.  Across the street was a fancy looking place called ‘The Mayo Hotel’, which I was planning on visiting for a drink sometime this weekend.  One of the interesting things that I saw was the abundance of “Electric Scooters” on many corners, like the bicycles you come across in other cities.  While I saw these a lot over the next couple of days, I did not see anyone riding one!

The more than decent 'Chimera Cafe'

I was going a short distance away, to a place called ‘Chimera Café’.  I went over a bridge and into an area which seemed to have several restaurants and bars, and found my destination, which looked like a cool coffee shop.  I ordered a “Mocha” and “Made in USA Bowl”, which was a fancy name for a bowl with “scrambled eggs and potatoes”.  I was thinking that with limited items on the menu, I could have done better in terms of selecting a place, but the food was quite good.  All you need for a good restaurant is to do simple things well.

Afternoon at 'Tulsa Historical Society and Museum'

For this afternoon, I was headed to ‘Tulsa Historical Society and Museum’ and called a ride to get there.  One of things that I noticed was how “yellow” the grass looked as we headed there, and coupled with the weather, it did give the place a gloomy feel.  The museum was adjacent to a big park and was in a building that looked, well, “historical”.  It was a good museum with a lot of information on Tulsa.  One of the more unique things that I learnt was that the world’s first “Yield Sign” was erected in Tulsa.  Who knew!  There were some other cool exhibits such “radio transmission” from early 20s and several props from over the years.  There was information on “1921 Tulsa Race Massacre”, which was another reminder of how it was in the South back in early to mid-20^th century.

Nourishment at 'Valkyrie'

There were 2 floors of the museum and I spent about an hour here.  Initially I had planned on walking through the park, but with the weather, I decided to head back to my room before my evening activities.  I did not stay for long though and soon I was walking back over the bridge and towards the area where I had been this morning, to a place called ‘Valkyrie’.  This had all the makings of a good cocktail bar with cozy interior and a tall shelf behind the bar with a ladder to get to the top.  Plus, they used clear ice cubes which were as wide and tall as the glass, which always registers bonus points with me.  It was early evening and the place was already getting full, and for good reason, because their menu looked good and the drink that I ordered – “Dem Apples” – was excellent.  A good start indeed.

The beautiful tree behind the bar

My next destination was next door in an entrance through an alley.  It was called, ‘The Lounge aka Bull in the Alley’, well because of the aforementioned entrance and there was a sign with a bull on it above the door.  But the most interesting part was inside, with an oval bar area and a tall, fully-decorated and rotating “Christmas Tree” in the center!  With the dark interiors, the tree looked even more appealing.  Unlike the earlier place, this was also a restaurant. So, the drink menu was quite limited, and I ordered an “Old Fashioned”, which was decent. 

Tulsa's own "Tiki Bar"

I did not have to travel far for my next stop, which was around the corner at ‘The Tavern’.  This place was under the same management as the earlier one, since I had the same bartender, who must have just come in through the common kitchen.  While this one did not have any holiday decorations, it still had a nice bar area and my drink – “Tavern Negroni” – was very good.  It was a nice evening as I stepped out to go to the nearby ‘Saturn Room’, Tulsa’s very own “Tiki Bar”.  Everything about it, from the exterior to the “tropical” interior screamed “tiki lounge”.  In the spirit of the season, they had holiday themed drinks and I ordered “Kris Kringle Colada”.  I enjoyed my time here and so far, the evening was going quite well.

Onward to 'Bird & Bottle'

The next place on my list wasn’t nearby and would require me to take a ride.  It was called ‘Bird & Bottle’ and was in a “strip mall”, whose parking lot was full, as was this place.  It was a “modern-looking” restaurant, with one of those kitchens that diners could look into.  Next to it was the bar and I took a seat there.  I use the term bar loosely since the center was some hardware store shelves where bottles were stored.  However, it was a nice place and I enjoyed my drink here.  I called a ride to my next destination, called ‘Cosmo Café’, which was on a street with some other restaurants and bars.  Now, it had not occurred to me initially, but upon looking at the menu, it finally dawned on me why this place was named so.  They specialized in all things “Cosmopolitan” – a drink that I have never ordered and had no intention of ever doing so.  However, this entire travel plan 4 years ago was based on a simple principle of immersive experiences.  If there ever was a time to order something that would make it so, it was here.  So, despite them having every possible flavor combination, I got “The O.G.” and sipped on it as I watched “Lord of the Rings: Return of the King” battle scenes play out on the TV across from me.

The very white 'Oren'

My dining destination was a couple of blocks away and right next to my final bar of the evening, ‘Doc’s Wine & Food’.  Boy, this place was full, and the bar area was quite boisterous.  I ordered a drink called “Naughty Negroni” and engaged some locals in conversation, gathering some recommendations on other bars to visit tomorrow.  The restaurant that I was going to, ‘Oren’ had an interesting entrance, through the back of this place and emerging into an open passageway between buildings.  The theme of this place appeared to be “white”, with the exterior walls and the interior décor, which was quite elegant.  I started with a drink called “Sumac Ya In The Face” and the dinner which followed was quite good.  The layout of this property was interesting, since a trip to the restroom also involved going into some common places.  But I liked everything about them and thought that it had been a good choice.  I took a ride back into my hotel and stopped at the lobby bar for a nightcap, amidst a crowd of - you guessed it – wedding party.  They were still at it by the time I returned to my room to retire.

A quick stop for some coffee

I had booked a “Walking Tour” of Tulsa for this afternoon, but about a week ago I got an email saying that they had cancelled it due to “inclement weather”.  As it would so happen, the weather would be fine for the entire day, so they could have stuck to the schedule.  In any case, now that I had all the free time and since there wasn’t much that I wanted to do in the morning, I took my time getting ready.  I had brunch reservations at noon and thought that I could spend some time prior to that in a coffee shop.  I found a place called ‘The Coffee House on Cherry Street’, named so because it was on “Cherry Street”, as was my restaurant.  So, I took a ride there and arrived at a building that wasn’t much to look at from the outside but was charming on the inside.  It was cozy, with every piece of furniture different than the other, unlike a corporate coffee place.  There was a group of women who were occupying one section, and I got a nice cup of “Mocha” – in an actual cup and saucer and grabbed a seat at a community table.  I was glad to have come here rather than spend the time in my hotel room.

And some brunch

A block away was ‘Smoke Woodfire Grill’, which I was visiting for brunch.  It was busy when I arrived, and it was a good thing that I had made reservations.  There was a “Christmas Tree” in the waiting area and while not quite elegant as the one I had seen yesterday; this one was decorated with beer bottles!  It reminded me a similar concept that I had seen in Hawaii, where that one had beer cans hanging from it.  They presented me with “Mini Muffins” as I sat down, with “Maple Chipotle Butter” as accompaniment.  I also ordered a “Diablo Bloody Mary” and something unhealthy, but good, and that would do me for the rest of the day.

The impressive 'Gilcrease Museum'

This afternoon, I was visiting ‘Gilcrease Museum’, which was located a short distance away from downtown.  It housed “Native American Art” as well as art from the “American West”.  There was a guided tour at 2 pm, but I was early and so went exploring on my own.  Now, this was a very sophisticated looking place, with posh galleries and a nice layout.  Each room was well designed and if not for the dull weather and the straw-colored grass, the exterior gardens would have looked attractive.  There was a lot to see here and though I could have stayed on for the tour, I decided to head back to my room.  There have been cities where I have had to cram a lot of activities in an afternoon, but Tulsa wasn’t quite bursting with options.  I didn’t mind though, since I had a long evening ahead of me.

Cozy basement of 'Cellar Dweller'

I left at 4:30 pm to go to my first place, called ‘Cellar Dweller’, which was a short walk away from my hotel.  When I approached what looked like a residential building, I wasn’t sure this was the right place.  But the place was named so, because there was a stairway going down to, you guessed it, the cellar.  Once down below, you entered a dark lounge with couches and dim red lights.  Finally, my kind of “speakeasy”.  Well, that’s where the similarities ended, since the menu was basic.  However, I was the only person there, and so had a great conversation with the bartender, Toni.  We talked about my travels and she told me about life in Tulsa.  This was another one of those times where I had met someone interesting because of these visits.

Next stop at 'MixCo'

Soon, the people started coming in and I left for the next stop.  The evening had set in and I walked past what looked like the city’s biggest indoor sporting arena, ‘BOK Center’.  Next to it was ‘MixCo’, which was buzzing, and I went over to find a seat at the bar.  Now, these folks took their cocktails seriously and had some unique creations on the menu. I ordered something that was proudly advertised on a board called “Stardust”, which was claimed as being “featured in Philbrooks 2018 Mix Cocktail Competition”.  It was a good drink, though no idea where it placed in the said competition.

Somewhere in there is a bar

I was headed to the rooftop bar at ‘The Mayo’, but when I got there, they mentioned that it was closed for a “private event” and it would open after 8 pm.  I continued and arrived at the address for my next location, to find that there was nothing there but a closed store.  So, this would be another “speakeasy” then.  I am all for that, but the entrance to this was as creepy as I have seen.  Around the corner was an alley and it was dark.  If there ever was a “textbook” example of “do not enter”, it was this alley.  I saw a sign with a picture of a cocktail glass and a door below it with the name, ‘Boston Title & Abstract’.  I took the plunge and after descending a flight of stairs, I saw a dark lounge.  I was in the right place.

Very soon the downtown disappeared

I got a seat at the bar and the folks were very friendly.  Not only did they do cocktails, but the food menu looked quite good.  I got a drink called “Marron”, which was presented with a show that included stuff in the glass being set on fire.  The final product was excellent, and I enjoyed my time here.  I looked at the map for my next place and it was one of those distances where I could have either walked or taken a ride.  Considering that this place wasn’t exactly easy to find for a pickup, I decided to walk.  Boy, how I wish I would have called for a ride.  The directions started taking me away from downtown and into darkness.  At one stage I saw that there was an underpass and a road next to it.  I knew this was turning out to be a bad idea, but by now I was committed and at the other end of this street was my destination.  But there was one problem.  A large locked fence was preventing me from proceeding.

Festive interior of 'Hodges Bend'

There have only been a few occasions when I have been worried about safety while walking on the streets of unfamiliar cities and this qualified as one.  The last time was in Denver, when I was travelling between bars.  I turned back and tried to find some alternate routes, picking a street parallel to the one that was blocked.  I was hoping it would take me to some semblance of civilization and fortunately for me, it did.  I arrived on a street which seemed to have some restaurants and bars and I finally found the one I was looking for, ‘Hodges Bend’.  The interior was festive with colored lights and a lively ambiance.  I had heard good things about their cocktails and the one that I ordered, called “Rule of Nine”, was very good.

And the very empty 'Vintage Wine Bar'

The path to my next place would not be as uncomfortable, so I proceeded on foot.  Plus, I wanted to walk through the cool-sounding ‘The Boxyard Tulsa’, which was a small mall like area made from “shipping containers”.  I had seen similar concepts in other cities and even though all the business’ – most of them independent small startups – were closed, it looked like a fun place to visit.  I arrived at ‘Vintage Wine Bar’, which was as empty as anything that I have visited.  It was a nice-looking place though, with warm interiors and even though the drink of choice would have been wine, I got myself a “Hemmingway Daiquiri” cocktail.

Dinner at 'Juniper'

Dinner was nearby, but I still had some time to spare and so went to ‘Fassler Hall’, which was a good old-fashioned “Bier Hall” with community tables and “steins” of beer.  I got “Spaten Oktoberfest” to pass the time and then went over next door to 'Juniper’, which was widely regarded as the one of the best restaurants in Tulsa.  I ordered the “5-Course Tasting Menu” and a drink called “Yamhattan”, since it was made from “Sweet Potato Bourbon”.  I wonder how much time it took them to come up with that name.  The dinner concluded with a dessert called “Justin’s favorite Chocolate Pie” and while I never learned who Justin was, his pie selection was good, as was the rest of the meal. 

Last stop at 'The Mayo'

I took a ride to ‘The Mayo’, since I had some unfinished business from earlier in the evening.  I was going for a nightcap at their rooftop bar, ‘Penthouse’.  I am not the most frequent visitor of rooftop bars, and once I emerged from the elevator, I remembered why.  They are always crowded and resemble a club rather than a cocktail lounge.  This one was similar and rather than a seating area at the bar, one had to order drinks and then find a place.  I got a drink called “Buttered Toffee”, which was made from “chocolate liqueur” and hence sweet.  I did not stay long and soon crossed the street to return to my room.  As I was putting away my things, I couldn’t find my earphones.  That just wouldn’t do and so after searching frantically, I deduced that they must be in the last place that I was using them, the ‘Penthouse’.  So, I put on my coat and returned to the scene of the crime and awkwardly looked below people’s feet, to try and locate the item, to no avail.  I resigned myself to thinking that I had lost these and came back to my room to grieve.  As soon as I started climbing into bed, I saw the earphones on the sheets.  While emptying my pockets, I must have put them on the bed first and they had blended in with the white sheets.  Despite the duplicate visit to the bar, I was glad that at least I had recovered them.

A beautiful morning in Tulsa

I checked-out of my room and walked over across the bridge – where I had been yesterday - to ‘Woody Guthrie Center’.  I did not know much about Woody Guthrie and this seemed like a good place to start.  I was the only person in there at this early hour and the enthusiastic gentleman selling the tickets told me to start with the “virtual reality” exhibit, warning me that some people find that a bit disorienting. The exhibit was about the famous, - albeit unknown to me - “Dust Bowl”.  There was a  model of a porch with a chair and a “virtual reality headset”, including headphones, and visitors were encouraged to sit down and put it on.  I did so and then started a virtual recreation of the “Black Sunday” dust storm of Oklahoma on April 14^th 1935 and oh boy!  I have seen some “virtual reality” simulations, but this one was outstanding.

At the 'Woody Guthrie Center'

It felt like you were sitting on the actual porch, staring into the plains – in “black & white” – with Woody’s “folk music” playing over a commentary.  The skies started turning dark and within minutes there was a dust storm of epic proportions.  Even though I knew this was not happening at this moment, the simulation was so realistic that at one point I had to take the headset off.  One could only imagine the plight of the people and animals, not just on that day, but during that era when these occurrences were common.  The presentation was fantastic and unsettling.  There was also an exhibit on this which went into details on how this affected the already poverty-stricken region economically.  As good as that was, the main purpose of the museum was to celebrate the life of Woody Guthrie, who as I learned was America’s greatest folksingers and songwriters.  The exhibits dealt with his life and career as well as his travels and songs.  There were his “song journals” as well as his instruments and for some reason an entire room dedicated to John Mellencamp.  

The only visitor at 'Philbrook Downtown'

The main art museum in Tulsa was not the ‘Gilcrease Museum’, which I had visited yesterday, but ‘Philbrook Museum of Art’.  I was going there soon, but first, I wanted to go to their downtown location, which was right next door.  They were just opening when I arrived and seemed a bit surprised at seeing me.  I got a ticket and went upstairs, which had several dark rooms that were supposed to be projecting something.  The problem was that nothing was showing.  I looked for a switch, but eventually went back down and asked about it.  Sure enough, they had forgotten to turn it on, after all how dare someone show up so early!  The projections were too surreal for me to interpret and so after walking around the sparse galleries for a bit, I soon called a ride to go to the main place.

First stop for brunch

As we were departing downtown, I saw a weird pillar and asked my driver about it.  He said that it was called ‘Center of the Universe’, because of some acoustics which magnified echoes if you stood inside a circle.  Seemed like an interesting place to visit, though I wouldn’t be back in this part of town before departing.  I arrived at ‘Philbrook Museum of Art’ and this one was much larger building than the downtown location.  My first stop was at their restaurant, ‘Kitchen 27’, which had a reputation of being a destination for “Sunday Brunch”.  I had made a reservation and was directed to a table at the back, which allowed me to observe the most primal human behavior – navigating the buffet line.  It was a decent place and convenient, since all I had to do next was go upstairs.

It was a very good museum

The museum itself was quite good.  It had nice gardens outside - which I walked through - sprawling galleries, and a good collection of exhibits, including one on “Legos”.  I spent over an hour here before proceeding to my final destination, which was called ‘The Gathering Place’.  One of my business associates, who is from Tulsa, had told me about this place, which is a public park constructed by a local philanthropist.  Spread over 100 acres and costing over $450 million to construct, it was named as “Best New Attraction in the Nation” for 2018.  I took a ride there and as we approached it, I saw some unique pedestrian bridges over the road, which weren’t your typical concrete, but green and ergonomically integrated with the park.

Last stop at 'The Gathering Place'

The drop-off point was like entering some amusement park venue and their “Welcome Area” was like some “National Park Visitor’s Center”.  I picked up a map and saw that there were several attractions like “play areas” for kids, “sports courts”, “skate parks”, a pond, gardens, trails and even a “boathouse”.  The bridges that I had seen from the car were called “Land Bridges”.  This place catered to every demographic, and that’s what made it so popular.  I walked through the park and could see how the locals would enjoy it.  One could easily spend a lot of time here, especially on a nice day like today.  The children’s area was very well done, and the “boathouse” building was a modern tower with nice views.  After 45 minutes or so, I returned and called a ride to take me back to my hotel, where I picked up my bag and then proceeded to the airport.

And so, this was it.  51 consecutive months and I had accomplished what very few, if any, have done.  I had gone 51 in 51.  There will be time for analysis on the top destination, least favorite etc.  But for now, I felt a bit sad that it was over and for a moment considered doing it all over again.  There were places that I went to early on, before finding my right approach, and which I would love to redo.  Then there were places and people that I would love to revisit.  This will probably go down as one of the best things that I have done, and I had enjoyed every single one of my visits.  As I walked through the ‘Woody Guthrie Center’ this morning, I thought that it was perhaps appropriate that this was happening on the last day of these travels.  References to Woody Guthrie’s most famous song was displayed prominently.  I had started off to explore our vast land and seeing those words made me realize that I had done so.

Yes, it is!

50. Arkansas

Month: November 2018

Location: Little Rock

Back in March 2017, I went to Charleston, South Carolina with my friends Lisa, Lloyd, Lisa and Dustin, who I had met during a “walking tour” in NYC.  That turned out to be one of my best visits and I attribute that to going there with my friends.  Subsequently they came to visit me in Chicago and this time their other son Dylan joined with his wife Brooke.  That was another fun weekend, where we did a “walking tour”, played an “escape game” and enjoyed some excellent food and drinks.  We had discussed the possibility of doing another state together, but I was running out of places.  I had finished planning my remaining visits very early on in 2019, but when Lisa saw that I was going to Little Rock in November, she said that they would try to make it work.  That they did and so Lisa, Lloyd, Dylan and Brooke would be joining me for the weekend. Furthermore, two of Lisa’s friends would also be with them. Dustin and Lisa had just had their second daughter and as much as they would have wanted to come, it wasn’t feasible.  But, even without them, I was excited to explore another new city with my friends.

View from my room

I had booked my hotel months ago and Lisa found rooms in the same place. I was going to be in Little Rock by noon on Friday, but Lisa said that they were planning on visiting the town of Hot Springs that morning, and so would see me later in the afternoon.  I took a flight that connected in St. Louis and arrived just before noon at ‘Bill and Hillary Clinton Airport’.  I’m quite sure that the second name was added recently.  In fact, as I would learn over this weekend, most of the things in this town were named after the Clinton’s.  I took a ride into town and my driver was enthusiastically pointing out some of the spots in downtown for food and drinks.  The street that we were on – ‘President Clinton Avenue’ – was where all the restaurants seem to be located.  I liked the small, but quaint, downtown, which was located by the ‘Arkansas River’.  Plus, there was a “streetcar trolley”, instantly elevating this town in my esteem.

Downtown Little Rock

I was staying at ‘Little Rock Marriott’ which was across ‘Capital Hotel’, that looked like a historic landmark.  Reading more about it, I learned that it opened in 1877 and was the first hotel to have electricity, and an elevator that could fit a horse.  Now, why you would wish to take the horse to your room was beyond my understanding!  My hotel looked quite modern and was busy with weddings.  I dropped off my stuff and set off to get some food.  The place in question was a couple of blocks away called ‘@ The Corner’ because, well, it was at the corner of two streets.  On the way there I saw a couple of bars that I wanted to visit during my trip here.  It was nice little restaurant which seemed to attract a fairly young crowd and seemed to be operated and run by young folks as well.  I sat at the counter and ordered “Cowboy Breakfast with Biscuits and Gravy, Fried Chicken and Eggs”, because I could.  It was heavy and all kinds of satisfying.

The main room of 'Hinderliter Grog Shop'

I had time before my friends would get here, and so I went to the nearby ‘Historic Arkansas Museum’.  I reached an open field which seemed to have some “historic buildings”, meaning this place had recreated 19^th century settlements.  I went inside the main building and fortunately was right on time, since a tour of the outdoor grounds was about to start.  There were just two other folks besides me and the guide and our first stop was at a building from 1827 called ‘Hinderliter Grog Shop’.  It was Little Rock’s oldest surviving building and besides being a home for the family that lived there, it was also a bar and an inn for travelling folks, most of them headed to the “promise land” in the West.  The sleeping chamber, which today would be suitable for 1-2 people, sometimes housed as many as 10 or more, depending on how busy they were and how little money these people had.  Speaking of money, I finally learned the meaning of “bits” as in “its not even worth 2 bits”.  Having a “silver dollar” made you rich and things were far less expensive than that.  So, people usually cut them into 8 wedges and each wedge was a “bit” or 1/8^th of a dollar.  I saw some examples of that in the big dining room, which also had a caged section in the corner, which was the bar.  I suppose the bartender stood behind the cage for his safety, though ‘The Aviary’ in Chicago also has a cage, which serves as a novelty…I think.  There was a more colorfully painted room in the back for ladies, who were supposedly more civilized.  I am sure this place has seen a lot of stories.

The interior from 1800's

We continued walking through this “campus”, visiting another building called ‘Brownlee House’.  This was from late 1840s and was built by a Scottish “stonemason” for his brother and sister-in-law.  Apparently, he led quite an interesting life, building the ‘State House’ a few blocks away, and then going to California for the 1849 “gold rush”.  One of the ugly truths about the South in that era was slavery.  So, almost all wealthy people “owned” slaves.  Brownlee’s were no exception and so besides their house, we also saw their slave, Tabby’s house.  It was interesting to see some of the things in her place, especially her kitchen stuff, her tools for making “wax candles” – which was one of her main duties – and her bed, which looked like it was made with tightly wound ropes.  The interesting part was that there were hooks on the sides, which could be used to wind the ropes when the bed starts sagging.  Everything in this modest house was homemade, economical and highly functional.

This is how the "Arkansas Gazette" was printed

There were couple of other buildings that we visited, like ‘McVicar House’ from 1840 and ‘Woodruff Print Shop’, which had a demonstration for us.  This is where in 1820s, Arkansas’s first newspaper was printed – “Arkansas Gazette”.  A replica of the original press was used to recreate the process for us, and I even got to keep a postcard as a souvenir.  We returned inside and I continued a solo exploration of the galleries, which included a section on the “Bowie Knife” or “Arkansas Toothpick”, which apparently is quite popular.  There were over 100 different knives which were quite impressive.  I walked through the other galleries and it was still early when I finished.  My friends were still on their way back from Hot Springs, so I went back to my room for a bit.

Evening in Little Rock

Around 5 pm I was getting ready to go to a nearby bar that I had found during my research, when I got a text from Lisa saying that they were downstairs in the lobby bar.  So, I went over to join them and saw that they had settled in a corner table which was perfect, since it was away from the crowd and allowed us to catch-up.  It was wonderful seeing Lisa, Lloyd, Dylan and Brooke again and it was as if no time had passed since our last meeting, which had been over a year ago.  Couple of Lisa’s friends – Tina and Cheryl – were joining us on this trip and they were a pleasant addition to our party.  We ordered some “Margarita’s” – there was a happy hour deal on them – and discussed our plans for the evening.

All the restaurants were getting busy

We decided to go for a walk in the downtown area and see what caught our eye in terms of dinner destination.  It was a nice evening as we walked down the main street, looking through the windows of various business’ and the menus of various restaurants.  While most of the restaurants looked busy, but uninspiring, we did spot an interesting coffee shop and an ice cream place.  We finally settled on a place called ‘Flying Saucer Draught Emporium’ and while it was full, that was a mirage if I ever saw one.  After 50 visits, I am confident in stating that this was the worst food that I have had during these travels and barring an utter fiasco over my last visit next month, this will be the “winner” in that category! 

Our abysmal dinner at 'Flying Saucer Draught Emporium'

They claimed to be famous for their beer and I ordered something called “North Coast Scrimshaw Pilsner” which was from their “Transcendent 20 Beers” list.  Now, I am not a beer aficionado, so cannot speak to that.  I can however comment on the food, which was atrocious.  The server recommended a “Saucer Dip Sandwich”, which was tasteless and came with a side of, well, potatoes I guess; though they were buried under so much water that it could have been a broth.  And it wasn’t just me.  Others were having a similar experience, none worst than an order of “Nachos and Dip”, which was essentially cheese mixed with water.  We seriously thought that there must have been some sprinkler malfunction in the kitchen for everything to be drenched in water.

The much better 'Lost Forty Brewing'

With this terrible dinner done, we decided to wash off the bad taste by going to a brewery, about a mile away.  Tina and Cheryl decided to retire for the night, so the 5 of us called a ride and went to ‘Lost Forty Brewing’, which was supposedly one of the top places around here.  I was glad that I was in a group, because if by myself, I would have decided to walk, and it wasn’t quite a well-lit road.  But then again, if by myself I would probably be at a cocktail lounge than a brewery.  It was in a building in an open lot and the interior was like a typical “bier hall”.  There were community tables where several locals were enjoying the offerings.  We found a few spots on one of the tables and I ordered a beer called “Easy Tiger Mexican Lager”.  Between us we also ordered some desserts, including a brownie and a pie.  This experience was much better than what we had to endure over dinner, and I liked the vibe of this place.  We chatted with some of our fellow patrons and learned about their “Sunday Brunch”, which apparently is so popular that people wait for hours to find a table.

The elegant 'Capital Hotel'

We left after one drink, but not before Lisa had bought a “Lost Fort Brewing Cap” as a souvenir.  My friends were tired after a long day and so we headed back to the hotel.  They retired for the night and since it was still early, I went across the street to the ‘Capital Hotel’ for a nightcap.  I liked this place, which looked elegant and hosted a “fine dining” restaurant.  They had two bars, one which looked small and quiet and other one was bigger and livelier.  Typically, I would have picked the former, but the hostess recommended the later, so I went into the busy ‘Capital Bar and Grill’.  I found a place at the bar and ordered a drink called “Suburban”, which was quite good.  The place was a popular dinner spot with several busy tables, probably owing to the wedding weekend.

The best cocktail bar in the city

During my usual research, I had found that the top cocktail bar in the city – by unanimous choice – was ‘109 & Co’.  When I had looked at their website earlier, it had advertised a special alumni event for the night, so I had postponed my visit for tomorrow.  However, it was just a block away and so I decided to walk by it.  I am glad that I did, since the event was in the back room and the bar area was still open for regular visitors.  Now, this was my kind of cocktail place, which checked all the boxes – dark cozy interior, a great looking bar area and a robust cocktail list.  I ordered a drink called “1876”, which was their version of “Rum Old Fashioned” and very well made.  As relaxing as this ambiance was, I was tired and so headed back to the hotel, just as the parties were starting around me.

The fantastic 'Nexus Coffee Creative'

Next morning as I was getting ready, Lisa texted me saying that they were headed to the coffee shop that we had spotted yesterday, ‘Nexus Coffee Creative’.  It was a short walk to get there and I was enjoying the beautiful fall day.  I met up with the group at the coffee shop, which was quite charming, as independent places like this usually are.  Plus, my drink, “Dark Chocolate Mocha”, was outstanding.  These folks knew how to do coffee well.  And that wasn’t all that they did, serving food and wine as well – though the latter would have to wait.  We planned out our morning and of course, the first stop would be for food.  We selected a place called ‘The Root Café’, which had gotten good reviews.  Lloyd and Dylan had gone to the airport to exchange the rental car and they returned with something that could have passed for a mini bus.  It had three rows with comfortable seating for all of us and equipped with all the comforts and luxuries.

The outdoor seating area of 'The Root Cafe'

The restaurant was located outside of the downtown area, which wasn’t that big to begin with.  But the drive there allowed us to get a look at the city in daylight.  The place looked like a suburban house with a front yard and there was a long line waiting to get in.  There were tables set up outside, amongst some shrubs and we were lucky to get a couple of tables together for all of us.  While Lloyd and Dylan held on to the tables, the rest of us got in the line to order.  As we got closer, more things on the menu appeared appealing.  Particularly interesting was their “Side of Bacon”, which both, Lisa and I ordered.  I also got “Sausage Egg and Cheese Biscuit”, which I made into a “Mountain”, meaning it was smothered in “gravy”.  Once again, I did it because I could.  We came outside with our food and it was nice to sit in the garden – though the ground was uneven, especially since it was a nice morning.  The food was much better in print than in reality, as was the drink that I had ordered, “Vanilla Cream Soda”.  Man, we were striking out with our dining options!

The incredibly functional "Green Building"

Our main activity for the morning was visiting ‘William J Clinton Library and Museum’, which of course, was on “President Clinton Avenue”.  We drove to a very modern looking building at the edge of downtown and next to the river.  The description of the place said that besides exhibits, the museum also housed archival collections such as papers and photographs.  But the most interesting part was an apartment on the roof, where the Clinton’s stayed when in town.  We got our tickets and the first stop was a full-sized “Green Building”, showcasing how it was possible to integrate sustainability in everyday life.  There was a lot of information as well some interactive exhibits for people to learn about sustainability and renewables, especially to educate kids.  But what I found to be most interesting, was the actual layout of the house.  It was smaller than my studio, but impeccably arranged and decorated, making everything functional.

Model of the "Cabinet Room" inside the 'White House'

As we walked up the stairs to the 2^nd floor, we saw a full-sized “Presidential Limousine” and although it was from just 20 years ago, the model looked dated and old!  Upstairs, was where the story was really being told, and we started with a short film in a theater.  It started with Bill Clinton's childhood and upbringing, leading up to him becoming the “Governor” of Arkansas and finally the “President”.  It concluded with his post-President life and the establishment of this place.  Outside the theater the rest of 2^nd floor was a giant hall, with lot of panels, arranged by years and showcasing his accomplishments and examples of letter and documents.  Apparently, there are enough documents in the vault to keep historians busy for the next 20 years.  We learned about his role in restoring the economy, war and peace efforts and other contributions towards science and environment.  There was also a full-sized recreation of “The Cabinet Room”, with chairs having names of the various “cabinet members” and their sitting position during meetings.

The collection inside the library

The 3^rd floor focused on his life in the “White House”, including pictures of various “State Dinners”.  I enjoyed looking at how a typical dinner table would look like, including plate settings and menus.  On this floor was also a full-sized recreation of the “Oval Office” and once again, it was interesting to see how some of the office equipment such as telephones has evolved in the last 20 years.  One of the docents told a story how one evening the guard was walking through the hall and saw someone sitting on the couch in the “Oval Office”.  The guard was about to throw them out when he realized that it was in fact Bill Clinton himself!  He was in town and had come down from his apartment to read.  I liked this place and having been to equally impressive “Lincoln Presidential Museum” in Springfield, this one was a worthy addition.  Plus, I loved the architecture, with wide halls and windows overlooking the downtown and the river.

Downtown Little Rock from the library

Outside the museum there was a small pedestrian bridge going across the river.  It was called ‘Clinton Presidential Park Bridge’, and it presented nice views of the river, the downtown as well as the museum, especially the apartment on the roof. The paved path had several engraved names, of all the volunteers that helped the “Clinton Campaign”, and there were a lot of them.  We took some pictures on the bridge and then got in the car to go for a drive.  Our first stop was the historic ‘Little Rock Central High School’, which was located outside of downtown, and was a key location in 1957, when it was desegregated during the “civil-rights movement”.  The desegregation led to protests and armed guards had to be called in.  Little Rock was after all, deep south.  We did not get out of the car but took some pictures of the beautiful building.

The 'State Capitol'

Next, we drove to ‘Arkansas State Capitol’ and once again, took some pictures without exiting the car.  If by myself, I would have gone in, since I do like to compare the interiors of the “Capitol” buildings that I have seen during these travels.  We then drove to a park on the river to a place called ‘Big Dam Bridge’, another scenic attraction.  Well, it really wasn’t much to look at, though the park area was quite pretty.  We saw a lot of folks running and biking on the trail and since we were doing neither, decided to head back to the hotel.  It was still mid-afternoon, so rather than going back to our rooms, we went for a walk on the main street instead.

Inside 'Ottenheimer Market Hall'

Next to our hotel was ‘Statehouse Convention Center’ and in their garden we saw a “gate”, typically associated with ancient “Oriental” architecture.  It was called ‘H.U. Lee International Gate & Garden’ and was “South Korean” in its design.  It was a tribute to late Haeng Ung Lee, who apparently had a huge influence on “martial arts” as we know them.  We took some pictures and continued to the ‘Ottenheimer Market Hall’, which was an indoor food court with multiple vendors, though at this time of the afternoon it was empty.  Behind the food hall, on the river, some sort of festival was being set-up, with live music and spirits tasting.  We decided to return back to the coffee shop that we had liked so much, ‘Nexus Coffee Creative’.  This time I got “Honey Brown Sugar Latte”, while some of the ladies ordered wine.  We also got a “charcuterie and cheese plate”, and for the next hour, just sat there chatting.  This is something I never get to do if I’m by myself – go to a local coffee shop and just hang out.

Dinner at 'Table 28'

We also planned for our dinner destination and after last nights fiasco, we wanted to do our research.  The common consensus was a place called ‘Table 28’, which was upscale and highly recommended.  Luckily, we managed to secure a table for all of us at 6 pm.  We headed back to the hotel to get ready and by this time the wedding people had taken over, with crowded lobby and even a line for car pickup.  The restaurant was in a good-looking residential neighborhood, inside a hotel called ‘The Burgundy Hotel’.  As we parked, we saw some “supercars” in the lot.  This did appear to be a classy place.  The interior was quite well done, and the menu looked good.  In fact, it looked so good that we ordered a bunch of stuff, including things like “Bone Marrow” and “Chicken and Donuts”.  I also got a drink named “Thank You Mr. Lee”.  Initially we had the area all to ourselves, but very soon the room as well as the rest of the restaurant got full.  We enjoyed our time here and finally, we had picked a place which showed that Little Rock had good dining pedigree! 

The spooky location for "Mystery Mansion Escape"

There is one activity that we always do when we get together – play an “Escape Room Game”.  In fact, we plan our itinerary around this.  So, it was no surprise that the first thing that we had booked weeks ago was a game for this evening; and this one was called “Mystery Mansion Escape”.  Our booking was for 9 pm and we arrived at the location which was a very spooky looking house.  Unlike some of the locations that I have been to, in “industrial lots”, this place was in a residential neighborhood.  As we entered inside, it did appear like a house that someone lives in, with a sitting room, dining room etc.  We were early and so waited in a sitting area and tried not to fall asleep.  Tina and Cheryl had not done one of these before and were highly skeptical, even apprehensive, about the experience.  But we assured them that once inside, they would have the time of their lives.  What wasn’t helping was some weird and scary sounds that were coming from a room in development, which was being tested.

The interior was like a house

Just before 9 pm we were taken to another room, which was a larger hall, and given our assignment, which was the usual “Find xyz before the time runs out blah blah”.  Once inside, we dove right in and for the next 60 minutes, worked extremely well as a team to unravel some complex clues and puzzles.  Tina and Cheryl were having a blast, especially Tina, who was completely engaged.  At one stage we felt that we had solved a clue, but nothing happened and the lady who was managing us and watching on the monitor outside had to come in and reset the prop.  But other than that, it was a fantastic experience and despite being one of the more challenging rooms that I have done, we managed to escape before the clock ran out.  We were all feeling the adrenaline rush of finishing a game and talked about it on the way back to the hotel.  But then the fatigue hit us all and while I had planned on going back to ‘109 & Co’  for a nightcap, I settled for a beer at our hotel bar before calling it a night.

Brunch at 'South of Main'

As I came down the next morning to check-out, I saw a lot of the folks from the wedding parties that were definitely feeling the effects of the previous night.  One of the restaurants that came highly recommended for brunch was ‘South of Main’ and we were headed there.  But before that, we dropped off Tina for “Sunday Services” and I was astonished to see the Church building.  I was expecting something that looked like, well a church, but this one could have passed off as a “Modern Art Museum”.  We drove to the restaurant which, was in the “SoMa” district i.e. “South of Main” and appeared to be a location for trendy places.  The place was quite empty, and the presence of a stage indicated that these folks probably had “live music” in the evenings.  I ordered a “SOM Bloody Mary” and “Biscuits and Gravy with Egg”, and a side of “Cheese Grits”.  It was fine, without being spectacular.  To be fair to them, we were told that the regular chef was missing today and so under the circumstances, they did a decent job.

Our ride for the afternoon

My friends were headed to Memphis, though there was still some time left, so we decided to go for a ride on the “Metro Streetcar Trolley”.  The trolley covered the entire main street, went all the way to the “Presidential Library”, then back to cross the river, do a round there, and return to downtown.  The entire trip would take approximately an hour and we had nothing better to do.  There was an app to locate the stops and a tracker.  A couple of times we thought that we were in the right location, but soon were running up and down the street to make it to the stop on time.  We got on the trolley and the good thing was that you did not need to get tickets ahead of time but could pay for it on board.  With the fare paid, we were underway.

The charming interior

The interior was charming with big, open windows and wooden benches.  Plus, the conductor was a tour guide and described what was passing by on the outside.  I suppose more people are like us, taking the trolley for the tour, rather than as means of transportation.  When we reached the end of the line, there was no place to turn around.  So, the driver crossed the length of the carriage and took over the controls on the other side.  I was wondering if we would now be having our backs to the direction of travel.  But no, our guide asked us to stand up and then flipped the seats so that we were now facing forward.  We crossed the river and went over to the other side, which was another neighborhood with its own set of restaurants and bars.  After a while, we turned around again and headed back to downtown, to get off where we had boarded.

The historic 'Old Statehouse Museum'

The whole trip had taken just under an hour and it was time for my friends to leave.  Once again, it had been fantastic to do this visit with them and we promised to get together soon for another adventure.  I still had some time before I had to leave for the airport, so I was going to ‘Old Statehouse Museum’.  But first, I had to stop at what had become my favorite place in Little Rock, ‘Nexus Coffee Creative’’, for a cup of “Dark Chocolate Mocha”.  The museum was right next to my hotel and it looked “stately” with white pillared entrances like the "other house" of that color in DC.  There was also a cannon in the yard to remind us of the “civil war”.  This was the original “State Capitol” of Arkansas and had a long history since 1833 till 1911, when the new ‘Capitol’ that we had seen yesterday, was inaugurated.  Subsequently it was made into a museum and placed on the “National Register of Historic Places”.

I liked this museum

As far as “State Museums” go, this one was really good.  Besides the history of the state, it has several exhibits ranging from stories of the elected representatives, gowns worn by the “First Ladies” of the state as well as dresses worn by “Miss Arkansas”.  There was an exhibit on quilts made by local black artisans, and grand halls and recreations of ancient rooms and chambers.  I walked through the building for an hour and then returned to collect my bag and leave for the airport.  This visit had been unlike some of my other ones, but coming here with Lisa and her family had made it fun.  I’m sure my experience would have been very different were I here by myself, but I wouldn’t choose that over this weekend with my friends.  It had been great catching-up and exploring the city…not to mention our traditional “escape game”.  I left Little Rock with 50 visits in the book.  One more to go.