38. West Virginia

Month: November 2017

Location: Charleston

Good Morning!

Like some of the other places that I have visited, I had heard about, and seen, West Virginia through the pop culture references of a song or a movie.  John Denver describes it as a beautiful and magical place, whereas most movies depict it as a dull and dreary mining country.  When I did my own research on Charleston, I couldn’t justify going there for more than a night.  So I booked travel for Saturday morning and returning back on Chicago on Sunday evening.  Well, then ‘American Airlines’ decided to make changes to my itinerary – because they could – and now they had booked me on a flight departing at 5:30 am and arriving back at midnight the next day.  I even considered looking for an inexpensive hotel room near the airport, but then just decided to give up on sleep.  So I set my alarm for 2:30 am and called an ‘Uber’ for pickup at 3:30 am.  The funny thing was that as we left downtown, I saw people who were still partying.  In any case, I was off on my adventure.

Thought we were headed to Charleston...

I was connecting through Charlotte and it was quite a trek to get to my gate.  When I got there, I realized that this was the terminal which hosted small planes and mine could have passed off as a private jet.  We had to go on the tarmac to get on the plane and the door also doubled as a ladder.  Yeah, it was small.  As I buckled in, I learned that so as not to be confused with its more popular cousin in South Carolina, this place was referred to as “Charlie West”.  It was supposed to be a very short flight and halfway through the trip we were told that our plane was being diverted to Roanoke owing to fog in Charleston.  Wait, what was going on?  The flight attendant didn’t seem surprised and mentioned that this wasn’t uncommon.  I learned that Charleston was in a valley, with the airport on a mountain-top.  Hence the constant issue with the fog.  When asked, the flight attendant said that there was no guarantee on how long it would take for us to get clearance to go there.  Great!  I had complained about spending too much time in Charleston and now I was worried that I may not have enough.  Funny how things turn out!

...But ended up in Roanoke

I wasn’t sure where Roanoke was and a quick check once we landed told me that it was in Virginia, and about 3 hour car ride away from Charleston.  One of the ladies on our flight was headed to a wedding or was supposed to be in one.  She was in full panic mode and making calls to check there were rental cars.  Apparently there was just one and since I didn’t see her after we got off, I assumed that she decided to chance it on the road.  Roanoke was a small airport and we seemed to have caught them by surprise.  They were very laidback and with only a few flights in a day, their businesses probably worked on a schedule.  Since I had no idea how long we would be here, I went into the only place that served food and got coffee.  My fellow passengers settled in to get some beers and the only lady serving in this place had her hands full.  Our pilots and flight attendant also came in for coffee, which didn’t do much for my confidence that we would be departing soon.  I was hanging out in the waiting area as a lady near me was talking on the phone to check if she could get back to Charlotte.  In my mind I was already preparing an alternate strategy for this month since Charleston may not work out.

Beautiful sight through the mist

After an hour of waiting, they told us to get ready to board, though I wasn’t certain if that was to go to Charleston or back to Charlotte.  The gentleman sitting adjacent to me said as much and only when we started approaching the airport and I saw the incredibly beautiful sight of trees with colored leaves, that I was convinced that we were at “Charlie West”.  There was a thin mist in the air and the airport was indeed on a mountain top.  We landed less than 2 hours behind schedule and had definitely arrived before the poor lady who had decided to drive from Roanoke.  I came out of terminal to look for cabs and there were none.  In fact, there was no sign directing me towards them.  So I asked an airport employee and he mentioned that I had to call the cab company from the public phone.  So I did and the lady mentioned that she would dispatch a cab to come get me. It soon arrived and we were off.

Fist stop was for lunch

The drive into town reminded me of New England, primarily because of the beautiful colors, which was amazing considering we were in November.  It was pleasant, with a slight chill in the air and I mentioned to the driver that this place was pretty.  He agreed and said that people like living over here, despite the impression of being a rural place.  Considering that I was running behind schedule, I decided to delay my check-in and since I have my priorities straight, asked the driver to head straight to my lunch place.  As far as my luggage was concerned, all I had was a backpack and it wasn’t much of a hassle to carry it.  I had picked a spot near my afternoon activity and I was dropped on a street with a few buildings, one of which was called ‘Bluegrass Kitchen’.  The inside had two rooms, the bar area and the main dining room.  I decided to sit at the bar and was the only person there.  The food was good and the service friendly.  This place is known for their cocktails and the lady mentioned that the bartender would be there for the evening shift and that I should stop by.

The curious layout of the museum

Nearby was the ‘State Capitol’ and since I have tried to visit those buildings in other States, I had to stop by.  It was a short walk through a park and over there was also the ‘West Virginia State Museum’, which I was planning to visit first.  I walked through a big hall and asked the security folks about the museum and they said that it was a self-guided tour on the lower level and gave me a map, complete with a walking path.  It looked like the tour took one through the history of the state at various times and also had side detours called ‘Discovery Rooms”, to see some artifacts.  They also had lockers and so after depositing my bag in one, I took the escalator downstairs.

On the  path

Before starting I noticed that there was an auditorium playing a short animated film and I stopped to see it.  It was a fun story about a gentleman named “John Henry’, a young man who was born strong and using his hammers, helped build a railroad.  The culmination of the tale was a competition between him and a rail laying machine, where he worked tirelessly to beat the mechanical beast, demonstrating spirit and perseverance.  The film was narrated by Denzel Washington with music by B.B King, and though it was geared towards a younger audience, I found myself getting engrossed in the story.  I came out and located the entrance to the walking path, and then had one of the best experiences at a museum.

It was a fantastic museum

The path started in pre-historic times on a dirt trail, with what looked like a forest, and took the visitor past several “zones” such as “River Plains”, “The Fort” and even “Company Town”; finally culminating in the present era on an asphalt floor.  Each area had been decorated accordingly and the one called “Coal Mine” even resembled a mine with dark passage, coal trolleys and railway line.  There were 26 unique areas labeled “A” to “Z” and there were 26 corresponding “Discovery Rooms” which collected exhibits that told the story of West Virginia and its colonization.  This was one of the best ways to showcase the State, and how it came to be the place that it is today.  I have been to several State Museums and this one was one of the best, if not the most impressive in the way it was laid out.  It educated the visitor while immersing them within the history of the State.  If I did nothing else over this trip, visiting this museum would have made it worthwhile.

A quick stop at the 'Capitol'

I collected my bag and went over to the ‘Capitol’ and it was as impressive as some of the other ones that I have visited, though it wasn’t as accessible.  It seemed quite busy for a Saturday and there was some security around.  So I walked around the central dome and then came out and called an ‘Uber’, trying to locate the right area for my pickup.  Fortunately the driver found me and so I finally made it to my hotel.  After checking in I was told that there would be a “Manager’s Reception” soon - whatever that meant - with some drinks and snacks.  Well, I wasn’t going to wait around for that and so after dropping off my bag in the room, I set off.

The main street, though you wouldn't know it!

I walked on what I suppose was the main street in downtown, since it was lined with restaurants and bars on either side.  While street was quite pretty, it was also completely deserted…and on a Saturday evening.  I reached the waterfront and went to a place called ‘Boulevard Tavern’.  It had been advertised as a place for cocktails, but looked more like a “Dive Bar” on the inside.  There were 2 other people there and one of them looked like he had been there for a while.  I asked the bartender if they could make cocktails and she responded “Yes”, seemingly offended that I had my doubts.  So I ordered an “Old Fashioned”, to which she replied that they can only do mixers like “Jack and Coke”.  Hey, if that’s what passes off for a cocktail over here, then so be it.  I had time to spare and so ordered something and plugged in my earbuds to focus on my phone.  The gentleman who looked like he had imbibed a few came over for a chat and I just ignored him, at which he left.  My biggest concern was if he would waiting outside and I kept looking over my shoulder as I left the place.

The evening had set in...though still no people

The streets were still empty and I arrived at my next spot called ‘Celsius’, just as they were scheduled to open.  The door was closed and so I waited and after a few minutes peeked inside.  I saw people in there and so I knocked, upon which someone came and let me in.  It was then that I realized that this place had another entrance from a parallel street, which was typically used. So while I had been waiting on the street, people had already gathered and gotten a head start on their evening.  Well, I blame “Google Maps”.  I saw that the menu did advertise cocktails and fortunately they meant it.  Plus the place was bright and pleasant, meaning a much better experience for me as compared to the earlier one.

The lounge in 'Sam's Uptown Cafe'

I stayed here for an hour and things had not changed when I left.  There still wasn’t anyone on the streets.  I walked over some “manhole covers” that advertised the name of the company I work for – this is one of our territories – and so I took a picture and sent it to my colleagues; perhaps the most exciting thing of the evening so far.  I went to a place called ‘Bar 101’, which was attached to a restaurant, though it had its own space.  There was only one other person there besides me, though the restaurant looked like it was doing well.  I got a cocktail and it wasn’t a bad place to hang out.  The night had set in when I left and my next stop was a place called ‘Sam’s Uptown Café’. While it advertised itself as any other bar, supposedly there was a lounge upstairs.  Well, the lounge was an area with some couches and exposed brick wall.  It looked more like a coffee shop and the only thing they served was beer.  While there were people downstairs, I was the only person in the “lounge” and after sitting on the couch for some time, I left.

At 'Vino's Bar and Grill'

There was a place that I wanted to visit before dinner, but it opened at 8 pm and I had some time to spare.  So I went to another place called ‘Big Joe’s Bar & Grill’ and finally, a place which had some people.  Well, it was your typical watering hole with beer and football and an interesting place to really observe the locals in their natural habitat.  Being a college football night, everyone was quite engrossed in the games and I sat around till 8 pm and then headed back towards the waterfront.  The place was called ‘Vino’s Bar and Grill’ and I guess they were hoping to go for a vibe like an exclusive bar, but weren’t that successful.  The drinks were mediocre and the clientele questionable, especially since one guy started bothering me as I was waiting for my ‘Uber’.  What’s up with these places in Charleston?  While not a total loss, this had been less than a stellar evening for sure.

The creative 'Bricks & Barrels'

While researching places to eat, a few good ones had come up, though most of them closed early.  There was one that looked unique and was called ‘Bricks & Barrels’; and it was a bit away from this part of the town.  On the way there my driver told me that it wouldn’t have been a good idea to be in that neighborhood alone or without a ride.  As I entered the restaurant, I saw that the place had walls lined with bricks and there were barrels everywhere; hence the name.  There were areas that looked like they were inside a barrel as well as Whiskey barrels that passed off as tables.  I was assigned one such table and I liked the place.

My table

It was quite busy, more than any other place that I had been to this evening.  I ordered a soup for starters and promptly returned it back.  I typically do not do such things, but this passed off for nothing more than hot colored water.  As I did that, a middle-aged couple on the next table started a conversation with me and as with most places that I have visited, it ended with us talking about my travels and exchanging numbers.  The lady mentioned that her son would be at this pub tomorrow for brunch and that I should look him up as he and his friends would love to meet me.  Well, I was planning to go there, but much earlier in the day.  The rest of the meal was actually good, including a giant piece of “Tiramisu” that they served me.  It wasn’t a bad end and I headed to the hotel after what had been a very long day.

Not much happening on Sunday either

The next morning was overcast and it did feel like a "Fall day". I made my way down the empty main street – which did look pretty in this setting – to a place called ‘Taylor Books’.  It was your neighborhood book store with a café, which was what I was most interested in.  They had something called “Tuxedo Mocha” on the menu, which I ordered and found to be a regular “Mocha”.  I guess they expected people to be wearing tuxedos while drinking it, else it was good marketing - hey, it fooled me!  I sat there watching some other folks who were strolling in on this Sunday morning.  The book store wasn’t that big, but was attached to a small art gallery.  I walked through both for a bit and then went to get some brunch.

The kids area at the science museum

Right next door was a place called ‘Adelphia Sports Bar & Grille’ and they were probably the main destination for people looking to watch football.  There were a few folks over by the bar, but like most other places in this town, was quite empty.  I left before the start of any games, and walked a few blocks over to ‘Clay Center for the Arts and Sciences of West Virginia’, just as they were opening for the day.  As I purchased the ticket, I learned that there were 2 floors, with the one above being an art gallery and the one below being a play area for kids.  Well, the floor we were on was an “Omnimax”, which would be showing some science related film soon and since there wasn’t much here, I got a ticket for that.  There were 15 minutes to spare and so I went to the lower level and saw a couple of kids running around.  The museum had actually done a good job of creating different areas, which were models of shops and other buildings that you may find in a town, such as “Grocery Store”, “Garage”, “Restaurant”, “Medical Center” etc.  The models were realistic, for example, having aisles and demo food products in the “Grocery Store”, thus making it a fun experience for kids.  What did not look fun was a 3 story structure that was like a tree house with net and which the kids could climb, starting here and all the way up to the top floor.  Not something I would have done, but there were some kids attempting that.

A private show

I went over to the theater just before my show and there was no one there.  At the time that we were supposed to start, a gentleman came running, saying that he hadn’t realized that someone had gotten a ticket.  Yes, I was the only person for that show and the theater itself was quite big.  I almost felt embarrassed making him work the show – he was also the projectionist – for me, but I guess 1 ticket sold is better than none.  The film itself was kid friendly, though there were some interesting bits and being in “Omnimax” was always going to make anything seem special.  Plus, how often does one get a private show?  And I didn’t even have to book the entire theater!

Inside 'Capitol Market'

After the show I went to the top floor which was an art gallery of sorts and they had some interesting pieces, but it did not take me long to walk through it.  By the time I left the museum, people had slowly started coming in and so my decision to come early had been good.  Not too far from here was a place called ‘Capitol Market’, which was essentially an indoor market for various local vendors.  I walked over there and the inside was not unlike other places that I have seen elsewhere.  It was winding down for the day and after a round, I called for an ‘Uber’.  Since the market had two entrances on parallel streets, finding each other was an adventure.  This caused me to run between the two doors, trying to locate the car, and I was being watched with some confusion by the folks in there.  But I eventually found my ride and we were off.

The beautiful 'Sunrise Carriage Trail'

Just across the river and next to the train station, was a hill on top of which were some expensive houses.  Running on the side of the hill was a trail called ‘The Sunrise Carriage Trail’, which was less than a mile, but by all accounts was a beautiful walk through the trees.  Constructed in the early 1900’s for carriages – hence the name – going up to the mansions, it was now a protected area for public to enjoy.  I got dropped off at the base of the trail and started walking up.  It wasn’t a steep climb and it was quite pretty, especially with some of the colors around me.  In fact, I saw several folks posing for pictures and some even looked like they were working with professionals.  At several places along the winding path one could stop and look at the downtown across the river.  It didn’t take me too long to reach the top where “Private Property” signs greeted me and so I turned around and went back down.  It was a good way to spend some time and a pleasant hike.

A walk before my flight

I still had plenty of time left before my flight and so walked across the bridge and through a riverfront park - well, as much as you can call a lawn park.  Then I did what I typically do when at a loss for ideas on how to spend time; go to the mall.  Barring a few exceptions, once inside a mall, it is easy to forget which city you are in.  For the last couple of days I had been wondering where all of the people were and now I knew.  Everyone was at the mall.  I did a walk-through, stopping at a book store for a bit.  Right next door was ‘Marriott Hotel’ and they were supposedly known for their cocktail bar, ‘Brick Salt Bar + Kitchen’.  It wasn’t much to look at, but the bartender did make a decent drink.  I returned back to my hotel and it was still too early to head for the airport. So I stopped at the hotel restaurant called ‘The Athletic Club’ to watch some football over a beer and there were several folks doing that.  I left just as “Manager’s Reception” was commencing, and which looked like some munchies arranged as a buffet.  Well, now I knew. 

Farewell to Charleston

I took an ‘Uber’ back to the airport and sat around waiting for my flight.  Fortunately there wasn’t any problem with either this or my connecting flight in Charlotte, other than me arriving back home, way after midnight.  This had been an interesting trip.  I had been concerned that there wouldn’t be much to do in Charleston, even for one day.  For most parts that was true, but by no means had this been a boring visit.  There is much to like about this place, and though there hadn’t been many people on the street, the ones I had met were fantastic.  Plus, I had seen - in my opinion - one of the great Museums outlining a State’s history.  But one thing this trip confirmed was that West Virginia was indeed the beautiful land that I had first heard John Denver describe all those years ago.