41. New Mexico

Month: February 2018
Location: Albuquerque

It looks quite Brown
Last February I had gone to Arizona and now it was time for its neighboring state.  As I was planning my visit, I saw that there was a place called “Old Town”, which I have found to be a charming place in most cities – well, except Chicago.  Plus, they were offering a “walking tour” of the place and so I got a ticket for that.  The weather looked like it would be better than what I had encountered in Birmingham and considering that it was cold and wintry in Chicago, I was glad to get away.  So, I took the Friday off and boarded a morning flight to Albuquerque.  As we prepared for landing, I saw the city under the backdrop of ‘Sandia Mountains’ and it all looked very brown, like most of the architecture I had seen in Arizona.  I took a ride into town and saw that besides the houses, the pastel shade was even used on the bridges and every other piece of architecture.  I mentioned that to my driver and he said that it was the “Adobe Bricks” that gave the city its unique look.

The ecelectic interior of 'Hotel Andaluz'
We arrived where the “GPS” stated my hotel was supposed to be and it was just an empty parking lot.  We asked the attendant and were directed to a building across the street.  It was at the corner of 2 busy streets and apart from the sign; there was no foyer or other indication of this being a hotel.  But as soon as I entered inside ‘Hotel Andaluz’, I was immediately impressed.  It had a central fountain and an interior courtyard with the layout of a lounge.  There were even alcoves with cushion laden sitting areas for groups.  The “Reservation Desk” was a small room where you sat down across a person as they registered you.  It was unlike other hotels and I liked it a lot.  What I did not like was when they tried to sell me an expensive water bottle that I could fill up if I needed water.  I refused that and said that I would try my luck elsewhere.

Not as good as I hoped
After depositing my luggage in my room, I called a ride and had to make sure I picked the right entrance, since the hotel had 2 on either street.  Even though I had done that, my driver was waiting on the other one, but we sorted it out soon and were on our way.  My driver welcomed me to Albuquerque and when he learned that I was going to ‘Cocina Azul’ for brunch, gave me some pointers on the food.  The restaurant was between the downtown and 'Old Town' and like other places, was brown colored.  The interior was busy and looked like a perfect "Mexican restaurant".  I got a seat at the bar and with some advice and encouragement from my server, got some “enchiladas” that came smothered in cheese and a red chilies sauce.  Plus, there were 2 sides!  It was a lot of food that was good, but looked better than it tasted.

Outside the museum
I started walking towards ‘The Albuquerque Museum of Art & History’, which was located just outside of 'Old Town'.  As I passed by one brown structure after next and arrived at the museum, which was a single floor building with some bronze exhibits outside.  I got my ticket and learned that there was a guided tour in 45 minutes.  I decided to go and walk about in the 'Old Town' prior to the start and as soon as I turned on one of the streets, I could see artisanal shops all around me.  Plus, the architecture was meant to resemble an era from long ago and this truly adhered to the term “Old Town”.  As I came up to the central square – which was a small park with businesses on all sides – I saw the main attraction of this place, ‘San Felipe de Neri Church’.  On the “National Register of Historic Places", this was built in 1793 during the “Spanish Colonial era” and the only surviving building from that time. 

'San Felipe de Neri Church'
Unlike other famous cathedrals, this was a very simple building made of adobe bricks and had a small courtyard which led into the actual church.  I went inside, and it was a small interior and very much like an old church.  There were a few people in there and I walked over to the altar, and then as I tried going to an adjacent chapel, a gentleman came over and told me that it was closed.  I came outside and prior to heading back to the museum for my tour, stopped over at a store which was selling ice cream – and “Birthday Cake” flavor too!  You can do the rest of the Math.  I was going to get a tour of this place tomorrow, but I walked through some of the shops and alleys, and it was quite impressive.  But for now, I had another tour time to make.

The fantastic exhibit on "African Art"
I came back to the Art Museum and went up to the tour guide, who was chatting with another couple who would be on the tour with me.  We would be walking through a special exhibit on “African Art” and that included several things – paintings, sculptures, music, film, clothing, furniture, photography, architecture and even comic books.  It was very well done, and our guide covered several pieces from each category.  There was a picture where the artist wanted to show the scale of the African continent and hence had arranged most of the countries – including big ones like USA, China and India – inside Africa like a jigsaw puzzle.  People think of Africa like poverty stricken and desolate place.  What this exhibit showed was that it was vibrant, with rich culture and people who were right up with the best when it came to fashion, and knew how to have fun.  There were some reminders of the problems, but for most parts, this exhibit celebrated Africa.

The museum delved into the history of the region
After the tour I explore the rest of the museum and it was quite big, and delved into a lot of history of Albuquerque and New Mexico – after all this was also a “History Museums”.  The galleries had been designed very well for a self-guided tour and I continue to be amazed by how many good museums I have come across during my travels.  I could have spent a lot of time here but had to make it to another place before its closing. So, I  walked through the galleries rapidly and then called a car.  One of things Albuquerque is known for is the annual “International Balloon Fiesta”, where people come from all over the world to fly their “hot air balloons”.  Held in October every year, it attracts close to a million visitors.  In fact, I had considered coming here for that, but would perhaps have been quite expensive.  The best I would be able to do was visit ‘Anderson Abruzzo International Balloon Museum’, which is where I was headed.

A museum dedicated to balloons - the transportation kind!
It was a few miles outside downtown and on the way there I chatted with my driver about the festival, and he told me about how incredible it is to see that, especially to look up in the skies and see all these colorful balloons.  The museum was located as a solitary building in what appeared to be middle of nowhere.  I got a ticket and entered inside, and almost all the attractions were above me.  There were hot air balloons, blimps and dirigibles - both models, and in some cases, the real things.  Plus, they were ranging from simple balloons, to ornately colored and decorated ones.  I was by far the only person in there and I walked through the various galleries which told the story of evolution of hot air balloons and their use in various cultures and across various eras.  There was a huge hall where visitors could walk through the various balloons and a back door leading to a field from where balloons could be launched.  It was a comprehensive look at the world of balloons and a good one too.

Somewhere here was the "speakeasy"
I requested a car to come pick me up and it took over 20 minutes for that.  Yes, this really was middle of nowhere.  Every city has at least one bar that can be classified as a “speakeasy” and the one here was called, well, ‘Vernon’s Speakeasy’.  The driver dropped me off in what looked like a “Strip Mall”, but one where all places were closed.  I walked around and couldn’t locate the place or even any numbers.  There was a store called ‘Los Ranchos Liquors’ and it looked to be closed.  So, I went to a nearby bar and asked them.  The guy told me that there was a black door below the liquor store sign and there was a red light on top of the door.  I saw it then and so I went there and knocked.  A guy wearing what looked like "20’s mobster" gear opened the door and then showed me into a dark room.  I sat at the bar, which wasn’t that big, though there were some tables behind me.  There was also a door which led to a private dining area and I learned that one needed to have membership to be able to use that.  I stayed for a drink and while it was a decent place, it wasn’t as good as some of the other bars of similar nature.

I was the only person at 'Broken Trail Brewery & Distillery'
I took a car to a place called ‘Left Turn Distilling’, which was still on the outskirts of downtown and it looked very much like a “dive bar”.  It was quite busy for this time of the evening and their menu was comprised of different types of “Martinis”.  The noise level of this place was high, and it seemed to be a popular “watering hole”.  I decide to walk to the next spot, which wasn’t too far, but took me to a very isolated looking area.  The place was called ‘Broken Trail Brewery & Distillery’, and the interior did look like a brewery with a glass window behind the bar and the usual distillery equipment beyond it.  But there was no one in there besides a lady bartender and another gentleman, who I later learned was the owner.  The owner left soon and then for the next 30 minutes or so I chatted with Sarah, who was behind the bar, while sipping on something called “Tesuque Lift”.  I asked her if this was the quiet time before people came in for the evening and she said that I might be it.  I said that this couldn’t be good for the business, but apparently they had other bars which saw a bigger turnout.  She said that it was the location which could be the problem, but I had just come from a place that was less than half a mile away and was buzzing.  Well, I for one was not complaining since we had a great conversation.

The empty 'Q Bar' at 'Hotel Albuquerque'
Next up was a place called ‘Still Spirits’, which looked fancier in its décor and personnel.  Plus, they made my favorite drink of the evening so far - ‘El Topo’, which was made with “Jalapeño Vodka”!  I stayed here for a bit and then took a car back towards 'Old Town', and to the fanciest hotel in the city, ‘Hotel Albuquerque’.  It looked the part, with a nice lobby which was full of people attending some convention.  But the bar that I was headed to, ‘Q Bar’ was quite empty.  I liked it though, because despite being a hotel bar, it looked like a lounge.  What I wasn’t thrilled with was the drink, which was a bit under par.  Next door was another hotel called ‘Hotel Chaco’ and they had a rooftop bar called ‘Level 5’.  Now this place was busy, making this evening quite symmetric for me with an alternating empty and busy place.  I got their “Signature Cocktail” called “The Muse”.  What made it special was that it was “garnished” with a “Petroglyph Stencil”, “petroglyphs” being signature attractions of this region.  Then it was time for dinner.

'Antiquity' for dinner
One of the highest rated restaurants of this region was a place called ‘Antiquity’ and it was in 'Old Town'.  It was a short walk away and so I decided to do that rather than take a car.  It probably wasn’t the best idea since it was an isolated and dark road leading into the central square.  All the shops had closed for the day and it was quiet as I went into a narrow alley and found the place, which was quite charming.  Despite having to wait for a bit, I liked the place, especially the interior which was befitting the region.  The food was good, and when the server recommended “Red Bell Pepper Soup”, I was skeptical.  But once I had a sip I was glad to have ordered it because it was one of the most flavorful things that I have tasted.  I returned to my hotel just as people descended on it to go to its popular bar's, especially one on the 2nd level, called ‘Ibiza’.  I decided to stop by for a nightcap and the bar area was busy, as was the outdoor patio.  It certainly looked like the place to be in Albuquerque and the party was still on long after I had retired.

On the 'University of New Mexico' campus
Next morning was bright and sunny, and prior to leaving the hotel I explored their business center/lounge which was as elegant as a “British Club”.  There was a fireplace, comfortable chairs, gaming table and a library of oversized reference books dealing with art and travel.  I could have spent my day in this room and not complained.  But I had places to visit and took a ride to ‘University of New Mexico’ campus to go to ‘Maxwell Museum of Anthropology’.  It turned out to be a typical “University Museum”, with one gallery of random anthropological objects that I’m sure told a story, but I was too bored to read.  I was the only person in there and left in a hurry.  I was going to a nearby place called ‘Frontier’ for brunch and the walk took me through parts of the University Campus.  There weren’t many students around this lazy Saturday and then as I crossed a busy street to get to the restaurant, I found them.  They were all inside ‘Frontier’, which turned out to be a glorified student cafeteria.  There were several “fast food” style counters where you placed your order, paid and took a number.  Once the number was displayed on a ticker display, you picked up your food and found a table.  Sounded like a college cafeteria to me.  It wasn’t a bad experience, but I felt that I could have done better.

The ancient "prayer room" on the tour
I was going on my “High Noon History Tour” in 'Old Town' this afternoon and called a ride to go there.  I had some time to spare before the tour and so walked through some of the shops, which were like other souvenir shops selling local stuff.  I was getting some coffee when I got a call from my guide for the tour and she told me to meet her in the same plaza where I had found the ice cream yesterday.  It was right next door and when I arrived there, I just saw a solitary lady who introduced herself as Nancy, my guide for the tour.  For 2nd time in 2 months, I would be getting a personalized tour.  We started at the center of the main square and Nancy told me about the rich history of this place, which dated back to when this wasn’t even a part of the US.  The Spanish and Mexican cultural influences were quite evident, but Nancy told me a story of a German immigrant from late 19th century, who was instrumental in the economic development of this area.  We walked through the narrow alleys and visited an old "prayer room", with an eclectic sundial to tell the seasons.  Being a historian, Nancy was the perfect guide to educate me on this place.

The brilliant inventions of da Vinci
With recommendations for both, souvenirs are more importantly “margarita’s”, I bid Nancy farewell and walked over to the nearby ‘New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science’.  The line at the ticket window was a long one and everyone in Albuquerque seemed to have elected to come here today.  There was a special exhibit on “Leonardo da Vinci”, especially his inventions and I suppose that was the main reason for this rush.  Besides the main entry I also got a ticket for this special exhibit and a show in the “planetarium”.  I started with the show, which was fine, though I almost dozed off in the dark dome and the comfortable chairs.  I exited the room and straight into the special exhibit and boy, was that fantastic!

The rest of the museum was decent
I was right in assuming that most of the crowd was here to see this exhibit and rightfully so since it was brilliant.  Most know Leonardo da Vinci as the painter of priceless classics such as “Mona Lisa” and “The Last Supper”. However, he was one of the most prolific inventors and many of the current machines that we take for granted, owe their genesis to da Vinci.  The exhibit was full of different models that he had created, including “hands-on demonstrations” and his blueprints on the same.  It is incredible that over 500 years ago this man employed the same concepts of physics and geometry that engineers use today, and created machines that are still employed.  If this was the only contribution tin history, he would have been a genius.  Combine it with his other accomplishments, and the man is a legend.

Starting the evening at 'Brixens'
I could have stayed here all day, but the crowd was building up and so I left to explore the rest of the museum, which was semi-decent, with its usual Dinosaur exhibits and other nature related stuff.  I had to wait for a bit for my ride to arrive and then proceeded to downtown to a place called ‘Brixens’.  It was a lively and bright place, though not as much as my drink, which was called ‘Kino’s Cannonball’ and was a brilliant shade of yellow.  Couple of blocks away was a smaller place called ‘Bar Uno’ which had a small bar area, but that didn’t stop them from welcoming dogs, which was fantastic.  Plus, the bartender was friendly and made a decent drink.

The view from the rooftop of the 'Apothecary Lounge'
I continued my trek which took me away from the main downtown area and towards a place called ‘Hotel Parq Central’.  On the top floor they had a bar called ‘Apothecary Lounge’.  It was nice space with modern décor and a rooftop where people were enjoying the pleasant evening.  Also, based on the number of couples that I saw, it was also a popular “date spot”.  I kept walking down the road and reached my next destination called ‘The Copper Lounge’.  While the sign was there, I couldn’t locate an entrance.  Then I realized that this was another one of those “speakeasy” bars where the entrance was on the side, which it indeed was.  I located the door and as I stepped inside, I was greeted by a neon sign that said, “Shhh…”  The interior was dark, and other than the one gentleman at the bar, quite empty.  I got a drink called “The Pontchartrain” and while it was quite at present, I could see this place being quite popular a few hours from now.

The "artistic" interior of 'Canvas Artistry'
I had to change for dinner since apparently, I was going to place which probably needed more formal attire, and so I came back to my hotel for a bit.  I did not stay long and took a ride back to the same University campus area where I was this morning. I was going to a place called ‘Zinc Bar & Bistro’, which was a nice-looking restaurant.  The food looked great, though I was here for a drink and so ordered something called a “Zinc Reviver”.  But nothing beat the title of my drink at the next place. The name of the bar was ‘Canvas Artistry’ and the entire place did give out a vibe of being an "art inspired" bar.  They also had creatively titled drinks and mine was called “Azucar Moreno”, which was fantastic.  Clearly the artistry extended beyond the art on the walls.

The ancient 'The Crown Room'
It was finally time for dinner and I was going to a place called ‘The Crown Room’, which was located inside a Casino.  As I walked past the casino floor, the whole thing was worn out.  The same was true of the restaurant and everything just looked old.  A restaurant aspiring to be called “fine dining” does not need to be solemn.  The food was passable, but I felt that I could have done a better in terms of my dining choice this evening.  I stayed there for as long as I needed to and then returned to my hotel.  Besides ‘Ibiza’ upstairs, my hotel also had a “tapas” restaurant called ‘Mas Tapas Y Vino’.  I stopped for a nightcap and after the funeral parlor that I had just left; this bright space was refreshing to say the least.  Plus, the drink I ordered - “Dr. Green Thumb” - was fantastic and a lady next to me pointed out that it was her favorite.  She and her husband were visiting for the weekend from Colorado and certainly knew how to party.  We had a good conversation chatting and then moved upstairs to ‘Ibiza’.  I had a great time with them and once again had managed to make new friends while travelling.

A complete waste of time that is 'Tia Betty Blue's'
I took my time next morning in leaving since I didn’t have much in terms of agenda.  I had contemplated taking the “tramway” to the top of ‘Sandia Peak’, and which presented some amazing views enroute and from the top.  However, that would have taken up most of the day and so I skipped it.  One of the places that came highly recommended for breakfast was called ‘Tia Betty Blue’s’.  It was some distance away from my hotel and as I arrived there, it looked like a solitary building resembling a house.  The parking lot was empty, though the inside turned out to be a nightmare.  First, there was a line to get to the counter where one placed the order and then found a table.  That wouldn’t have been an issue if they were better coordinated.  The person taking the order was also the server as well as the barista and for all I know, the chef!  It took me an entire hour to go less than 10 yards to place my order and get to my table.  It was the worst organized place that I have seen.  Plus, the food and coffee weren’t that great.  Not only did they mess up my order, the food wouldn’t have been worth a 5-minute wait, let alone the hour.

Replicas of bombs that were dropped on Japan
Because of this delay and the wait for a ride to come pick me up, I had to decide which of my afternoon visits to prioritize.  Rather than go to ‘Albuquerque Botanical Gardens’, I picked ‘National Museum of Nuclear Science & History’.  I mean, that wasn’t much of a choice really.  Like many of the places around here, the museum was quite isolated. As I approached it, I could see models of missiles outside the building and as I entered inside, I was greeted by tiles in the form of the “Periodic Table”. Those 2 displays were great indicators that that this museum would be equal parts science and weaponry.  It started with the discovery of the atom, the development of nuclear science and finally its use in "WWII".  The exhibits went to detail on each topic and had props from different era’s, including models of the two bombs that were dropped on Japan.  The exhibit continued through the “cold war era” to the present, and the use of Nuclear Power in today’s world.  There was even a model of the ‘DeLorean” with its "gigawatt capacitor"!

The exterior of the musuem
Outside was something called “Heritage Park”, which is where they had full sized missiles, planes and bombs.  Some of the missiles were disassembled into components and they were huge, as were the planes that carried these weapons.  Only by seeing the scale of these things could one comprehend their destructive capability.  This, and the museum inside were worthy of the name “National Museum” and this should be a mandatory visit for every student of Physics.  I spent more time here than I had anticipated and could have stayed longer.  But I called a ride back to my hotel and having picked up my bag, headed to the airport.  I had enjoyed my stay here, though I could have done better with my food choices.  There is a lot of history in the city, especially the ‘Old Town’ area.  Plus, they have some good museums and decent bars.  Would I come back here?  Yeah, I would.  And next time it would be for the “Balloon Fiesta”.


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